Here is the deal. There are a tons of videos on YT that explain the neutral flame and how to get there. YOU are the only guy that has the right camera filters to demonstrate it. Most viewers of other videos with 250k views would be left believing that as soon as the feather reaches the cones you’re done. That’s not the case and the dimming filters showed why. Brilliant!
Excellent tutorial, Tim! People need to remember the 15psi rule, as well... I didn't know about the tank size affects or the tank upright position and wait period, so it's much appreciated!
I always thought it was 10 PSI but I've never needed it at more than 5 PSI. However it's still good practice to keep the pressure to 10 or less and it will save from going through you gas so often.
@@benkeysor7576 Nice. I've always put it at 12, myself. I'm from the old school, though. Also, I tune the acetylene to where I just start to see the soot, but will try it Tim's way next time I blaze it.
Nice to see O/A featured here. 👍 It may be slow but it is versatile (in addition it can also be used for brazing dissimilar metals or preheat of really thick sections, prior to electric welding) Torches are handy for non-welding uses too. Like corroded exhaust fasteners.
@@TimWelds You said that, and it makes sense. You have stick, mig, tig and a plasma cutter. Plus years of experience using them! If I were in your shoes I doubt I'd reach for a torch either, but they sure are handy when a cord won't reach and you can't move something like a gate post into the garage.
As far as I’m concerned, Tim has one of the best welding channels on RU-vid, and I’ve seen most of them! Thank you for all the amazing Contant you put out, Tim ! It is always extremely thorough and detailed.
Thanks Tim. Years ago when I started a car restoration project, I needed to learn how to weld, so took an adult education welding class. They taught Mig, Arc, and Oxy/Acetylene. Sadly the class had a lot of students, so I never got the chance to learn O/A. I really appreciate your instuction!
Wow. This short 11m video might be the best oxyfuel cutting video out there. Phenomenal stuff man, hopefully you make a longer video and explain oxyfuel cutting and welding more in-depth. You seriously are amazing man thanks!
Thanks man. I think this is the first comment i have ever left. So refreshing to see someone do it just to help people instead of trying to sell me some crap. Thanks from the other side of the pond.
Great stuff! From what I've learned the gas welding is great for brazing and the classic bicycle industry loves the aesthetics that the braze produces at joints and for accessories like mounts, racks, etc.
Brazing is awesome and great for steel frame bikes. Brazing can also be done very well with a TIG welder, which is how I do it, but a torch still works also.
perfect video for me, was taught acetylene welding and am qualified for it, perfect refresher video to set me right to weld up the sills on my car this week!
Good video, but after more than 50 years since I started fixing rusty cars, I'd like to add some comments. When working under a car, put small pieces of cotton wads in your ears. Small pieces of red hot metal can pierce your ear drum. In my country backfire protector on the acetylene regulator and check valves on the handle is mandatory. When tip is clogged prevents oxygen from going back into the acetylene tank. A fireproof glove also mandatory. Probably to enable closing a burning acetylene tank. When welding rusty sheet metal a reducing flame works better. In sheet metal angle of the flame is all important. Gives ratio between heat to rod and sheet. Filling holes done with flame almost parallel to the sheet. Pause to let surrounding sheet cool. Not to make hole bigger. Use nozzle tip cleaners. Cutting tips are more likely to get clogged. Always know where the flame is pointing. A bucket of water can be used for cooling and killing small fires. Powder extinguishers makes an awful mess. Though less messy than a burnt down workshop. Personally I prefer not to use gloves. You quickly learn what is hot and what is cold.
In most cases you should not need more than 5 PSI for Acetylene. When I was brazing in HVAC school I was able to braze just fine with it set to 3 PSI. The nice thing about cutting is you can actually use the Acetylene regulator on a standard 20 pound aka Grill Propane cylinder and get cutting tips for Propane which is much cheaper to use and works great if you only occasionally cut or cut for scrapping stuff. Even with propane you still should be fine setting your regulator at 5 PSI and it's recommended to use grade T hoses but unless you are doing lots of cutting standard grade R will be fine. Oh and last but not least it's recommended to use a minimum of shade 3 googles/glasses anything darker may be a little too dark.
Many people with pacemakers and ICDs are advised not to use electric welding/cutting systems. Oxyacetylene welding is a great alternative to not being able to weld at all.
Often having to light up in the restaurant kitchens while repairing various fridges on site I had the unsuspecting kitchen staff running thinking there's a fire or immanent disaster. Better yet is when I dial in too much oxygen and my lit torch goes POP. 🤣🤣 Thanks for a great video Tim.
Thanks to your tips Tim, really well made video and content. For my experience oxy-fuel welding and cutting is preferred for on-field calls just because you can bring with you just two cylinders, a torch handle and some cutting and welding attachment. So no generators or air compressor are needed. For shop applications are a way better and more practical the electronic machines like plasma cutters or welding machines.
I was going to buy a 125cf oxygen and 40cf acetylene cylinders recently and the prices have gone insane. Last time I bought a pair, I paid something like $300 for filled tanks. Now it's over $700 from the local AirGas dealer. MUCH cheaper to run plasma and MIG/TIG, assuming there's no particularly compelling reason you need an oxyacetylene setup. Also, no flashback risk. That's a whole lot of no-fun.
Very good presentation except for the oxygen & acetylene gauges . The babes and adjustment screw should always be unthreaded or no pressure going to the torch … this will save the gauges & on full tanks can damage the gauges … this can be a nightmare especially when welding with a torch 🤷🏼♂️ the flame 🔥 will not be stable and self adjusts which doesn’t work well when doing this …
Hello Tim. I have been constantly getting red eye from welding lately. passes the next day but Doctor told me I have a horrible eye damage in cornea. but then i can't see the part that i'm welding when i use Mask all the time. My question is do you get red eyes from flash too ? Is it normal ?
Hey Tim. I just purchased an oxy fuel cutting torch and call the knobs on the torch head are very loose fitting. And I’m always bumping it while I’m cutting. Should they be kind of loose? Or do they need to be adjusted or rebuilt?😊
Thanks. Is it safe to get a cylinder of actelene from the gas supply and lay it down in the back of the truck while transporting it? I read somewhere that it must be kept upright for some time after it has been laid down or the acetone will come out when you turn on the valve.
I haven’t been told not to transport the tank sideways, but you are correct about the acetone. I set the tank upright and don’t open it for a whole day just to be safe.
I know this is about torches but I have a question. I’m new to welding and I have the Lincoln 210 mig welder, everyone is telling me to get rid of the regulator and get a flow meter. Can you tell me a good one to buy around the price of $100-$150 would greatly appreciate your time
Thanks a ton for the question! I wouldn’t bother with that if I were you. It is better, but it’s a minor optimization that won’t make much difference on your actual welds. MIG welding is pretty forgiving when it comes to gas flow. The hard part about learning to weld is there are a ton of things that make a tiny difference (better regulator, movement patterns, ground clamp, brand of consumables, optimized settings, etc), but only 3 things contribute to 95% of the outcome and they all have to do with technique-you can find them in my vid called MIG Basics for Beginners. To answer your actual question, however, Victor gas products are generally good quality. I personally just use the stock ones or cheap $25 SPARC ones off Amazon and that’s never been a limitation for me. For TIG welding, gas flow is more important and I just check the flow with a peashooter regardless of the regulator/flowmeter that I’m using. Hope this helps! www.amazon.com/dp/B009QFFIIY/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_98BJVY4K59823Q5GM68E?linkCode=ml1&tag=timwelds-20
