Cory Ulrich 1 second ago There is, these people demonstrating are just doing it wrong. You usually start it with a 4-5 lb sledge hammer single handed. You guide it in with the other hand. Once it's gotten down fairly far you finish with a full-size sledge.
I've found that using a long metal pipe or rebar or something will 1) test for any rocks/residual concrete in the way that could warp your anchor, and 2) prime a straight hole for the anchor to go through. Haven't had issues getting the posts level by doing that
Remember everyone, this product is deep enough and sharp enough to cut through underground gas or water mains. Always call before you dig. and in this case pile drive.
Great idea but I think for that price your better off just using a gas powered auger for a whole fence and a drain spade or post hole digger for a small project. Maybe a pickaxe if there’s rocks in the topsoil.
We have a similar product here in the UK (Metpost). I have found THE easiest method for sinking many of these is to use my pressure washer. The lance is around 4' long so I can go down to that depth if required. It takes less than a minute for most applications into soil and ever so easy to hold a spirit level at the same time to ensure a vertical hole. The resultant hole is full of water, making insertion of the spike a doddle, again, easy to hold a spirit level steady whilst pushing the spike in by hand. I tend to find the last few inches require a little extra effort - easy enough to put my weight on top of the spike to push it fully home.
By doing so, you are moving the surrounding soil and making the post unstable in a very short period of time. I just hope that with your creativity, you will never have to dig anything for the concrete foundations.
If I have to lay concrete foundations then I will dig them out, if I ever have to rebuild my garden fence, I will use the method I described to insert the spikes (as I originally did some 20-odd years ago).
Whatever. After fixing my 6 metposts (on a bend, to make it even more tricky) I have completely changed my opinion about those. These are crap! 760mm long does not hold secure 100x100 post if its longer than a 1000mm. I will never use it again, digging a hole and doing some traditional concrete base/support is just easier and a way more accurate. Not to mention the fact, that despite all of the preparations and caution, I have had to remove and reposition two spikes. This product is unsuitable for fitting ready-made panels, as it is extremely difficult to keep the gaps even and the posts pefectly plumb.
Looks like a great idea for a small project...BUT at $28 to $39 "EACH"...its just not cost feasible when you doing a yard that takes 30, 40 or more Fence posts when compared to a $3 dollar bag of ready to mix cement and a strong back! Guess it depends on whether you'd rather swing a sledge hammer or use old fashioned post hole diggers. I'm NOT bashing your product...its just something out of my pay grade to afford for "my" yard..
I've learned it's simply to hard to work with these if you have stones. They move around and it's impossible to get your precut fence panels into place and fit properly.
That pretty much applies to any type of post installation. Once I had to set a stub post over a couple inches (found a 2..3 foot boulder) and bolt the actual post to that...
If you're ofly off by 1/4"- 1 1/2 inches, you could just put a notch in your post with a sawzall to help it fit in. Just be sure to re-seal the cut end of the pressure treated post.
Can you say cheesy monologue? 😑 looks easy enough but I’m worried about twisting and leaning when diving into ground. Another issue is rocky soil.... jumping sing and not staying online 🤔🤷♂️
I am having a heck of a time getting my 4 x 4 posts to fit all the way down to the six inches that is available to fit the post. The anchor IS 4 x 4 and of course, the post is 3 and a half x 3 and a half inches. Still able to get post to go down only 2 inches into the anchor no matter how hard I strike the top of it. Any suggestions??? I notice that there are indentations inside the anchor where the screw holes are. I'm frustrated!!!!
OZ-Post 600 series Anchors are modified versions of the standard 850's that are specifically designed for areas that have hard packed soil, asphalt, rocky, roots or driving into rotten posts. The 600’s fin length is 30% shorter and is 50% thicker compared to the 850's to increase penetration performance in these difficult installation areas. Available for both Wood and Steel Posts.
When you find a big rock it might be time to switch to a post hole drill, have a digging bar handy, something to lay on when reaching into the hole, etc. Until we get either digging lasers or transporter-based construction... "Beam it into place, Scotty!"
OZCO Building Products the why did they not Demonstrate that you would think it would be a no brainer to show what it can do you mean you just showed the very easiest job makes no sense
I've been installing fence posts for decades, these metal post holders are ok for low level panels under 4ft but you will never get stability from them, the spike sits deep in the ground agreed but it wont hold a 6ft fence panel as rigid as sinking a post into the ground and securing with concrete, also you better hope you dont hit rock 10 inches into the soil, that's when you start to regret using them, spikes are ok for small basic jobs but i always advise my customers to avoid using them.
Bad, when rain comes and loosens soil and shift. You can drive a post in to hold a tent, it's strong, but tap tap and it comes out, that easy. used these, never again, stick with other methods
How often do you have to move the fence posts?? Consider rather how to move the concrete supported posts ;-) To answer your question: you can use your car jack but the farm jack is the fastest and easiest.
The easiest way (assuming you have a post in there still) would be to cut the post about 1' from the top of the anchor. Then screw a long 2x4 into the 1' post so that it will create a fulcrum with you at the longer end. On the short end that will be pushing on the ground you'll probably want to put some scrap wood to prevent the short end of the 2x4 from digging into the dirt. Lifting your side of the fulcrum will give you a huge amount of leverage to draw it out. You should be able to lift it above your head. By then, depending on the length of the 2x4 you used, it might be pulled out enough to just yank it by hand. If not, stand on a small platform to get an extra foot or so of height. You could also just move your end of the fulcrum closer by unscrewing and moving your 2x4. If you have problems where having one 2x4 on only one side of the post is making it lean to much, then you can just attach a 2x4 to both sides and live at the same time. I recommend some GRK R4 or RSS, or SPAX structural screws to hold the 2x4's cheap screws may shear off under the pressure. Be sure not to whack your self in the chin or in the balls when you are dead lifting your side of the fulcrum. If a cheap screw snaps all that force you're putting on the 2x4 will make it shoot straight up.
Well I uses a long wooden beam adapted the end to connect to the post spike then used a log placed by the spike and counter leavered it out. It was so easy my 8 year old girl pulled one out.
Cory Ulrich 1 second ago There is, these people demonstrating are just doing it wrong. You usually start it with a 4-5 lb sledge hammer single handed. You guide it in with the other hand. Once it's gotten down fairly far you finish with a full-size sledge.
There is, these people demonstrating are just doing it wrong. You usually start it with a 4-5 lb sledge hammer single handed. You guide it in with the other hand. Once it's gotten down fairly far you finish with a full-size sledge.
