Excellent Video! Accurate Information. We bought my daughter a 2003 Acura TL about 5 weeks ago with 121,000 miles. Two weeks later transmission would feel like it would slip slightly when going into 3rd gear. One week after that, weird and troublesome shifting when on the road. Another week, hard shift from park to any gear. Sometimes would not go into reverse. 3 days ago, followed this video which gives excellent instructions. Was a bit dis-heartened when the filters on the dual solenoid set were clean. But! was happy (you know what I mean) to find the lower single solenoid filter completely blocked. Easily cleaned. Checked solenoid operation by applying 12V. Also found transmission filter to be restricted so replaced that. When I first stared the car up and put into gear, same things happened but cleared up immediately. The transmission it really running smooth now (4 days). Very happy and scored some points with my daughter. The transmission fluid is a bit discolored and doesn't look like it has been changed. Will flush in next day or too. I hope as much luck to any of you reading this. Thank you very, very much "Incin3ration", creator of this video!
@@jmj_d5207 These times are estimates. About 1 year after the cleaning I had to clean again with same very good results. The car ran great another year but was in an accident that damage the front end and we sold it. Good luck!
I'm glad to see this. I junked my '99 Accord about 4 years ago because I assumed the tranny was shot. I realize now it was the solenoids. I have watched other videos on the subject. I wont make that mistake again.
Thanks for your comment I was just now devastated when the top dual solenoid was clean as can be I’ll get a flex joint and take off the lower one next!
I have a 2000 Acura TL that started shifting hard at about 173K Miles. After viewing your video a few times I went out to my shop and performed your cleaning process of the screens. I found the exact gunk you did loaded up on the one upper screen and the lower screen as well. I didn't have compressed air but used brake parts cleaner to remove the buildup and what can I say but it worked beautifully!!! I could see where a Transmission shop could have made this a $1500-$2000 repair in a complete rebuild that was not needed. I was a little uneasy about reusing the same gaskets but carefully cleaned them off and using transmission fluid on the lower rubber gasket and working it in on the rubber was able to reassemble with no leaks. On my car I didn't need to remove the air pipe to gain access so it saved me time while doing this process. My Acura now shifts beautifully again just like it should... I also did the transmission inline filter at the same time and with an Ohio car the bolts were a little rusty but I sprayed them down with solvent and when the bolts got tight, I stopped, spun them back in, used a small metal brush, tooth brush size (Harbor Freight) to clean the threads and repeated till the bolts came out clean. If I had just tried to crank them out I'm sure they would have broken off making a big problem but taking time to work then out saved the bolts and the threads in the bracket. I used grease on the bolts when re-installing to make sure they would spin out when the filter needs changed again. Hats off to you and thank you VERY much for taking the time to video the process and share it with other Acura/Honda owners. Your videos and the quality of the view and explanation to guide others through various repair processes are 2nd to none! Thanks again and keep up the great works.
I would give you a hug, man. I'm so happy after my car works again. Thank you very much for video. My tranmission acted up with D5 light flashed and all other crazy stuffs. Scanner gave me code P1750. I followed your instruction and get it done in 1.5 hrs. Tranmission is quite smooth now. Thanks again.
So I have a 2003 Acura TL 3.2 Type S with 173,100 miles previously owned by one owner and well maintained. So I got a check engine light come up and read the code and it was P0740( Torque converter Solenoid). I was frightened, but I did my research on Google and RU-vid. Upon that, I stumbled across this video and I was like okay I have similar symptoms of transmission slipping a bit and having a hard time picking up on highway speeds. Also turning and hitting the gas at the same time was a problem. So I decided to do the exact same fix myself. The process was very simple but annoying. I recommend the universal ratchet it helps a lot. Oh I forgot to mention if you do plan on doing this do it on a flat surface because as I was removing the solenoid and the transmission fluid leaked a little to the side. In conclusion the top solenoid screens were clean, but the bottom solenoid screen/filter was very clogged with transmission gunk. I didnt have a air Compressor. So I bought a Computer cleaner can of Compressed air at Staples or office depot. So it did the job and cleaned it right up. After cleaning the screens on all the solenoids I put everything back together and now my transmission feels more responsive and no slips and ill update if anything persist. So far it feels good 👍 the process took about an hour.
That is very good to hear this worked for you! You can also use brake cleaner to clean out the screens as well. In some cases, I've heard of people having to clean the filters twice or even three times, but let's hope it's a one-and-done deal! I also know you said the previous owner took good care of the car, but just make sure the transmission fluid isn't brown, black, or giving off a burnt smell, and always use Honda DW-1. Best of luck to you!
did you buy chance have a leak? i was told at the oils hop i had a leak a small one though. do you think just cleaning the screens/filters helped? and in addition, did you drain ( and/or) flush the trans fluid? i went to autozone got the same code and that was one of the results that was given on the paper. as well as changing shift solenoids.
I just bought a CLS and have been hearing nothing but horror stories about the transmissions. Your updates in the description will help me sleep well at night and i'll be sure to tackle all these projects asap. Thanks for the informative videos
the dealer swapped a rebuilt trany in my 01CLS under warranty then it failed again 13 month later... they asked for $5k, I said: every year? the junk clutch shavings that plug the solenoid screens, should not be there in the 1st place... meaning cleaning is hardly a patch before auctioning, not a fix !
If you are thinking about buying an Acura/Honda with a 3.2L engine from 2000 to 2005, DON'T. YOU WILL HAVE THIS ISSUE Excellent video! My issue is a little different. I have a 2003 Acura CL that shudders hard from 2nd to 3rd gear with no CEL. So I changed the shift solenoids 28610-ray-003 and 28600-ray-003, and highly recommend it to anyone whose doing this, they are literally right next to these parts. For me changing the shift solenoids didnt quite do the job, all the other shifts were perfect but from 2nd to 3rd still shuddered. So I kept searching and stumbled on this video and decided to try this out myself. It took me about an hour to an hour and a half and I took it out for a test immediately and everything went perfect, however, as i continue to drive it, it does new things. It just locked me in park after I put gas in it, shudder on the way to the local grocery store. Upon leaving I got up to highway speed rather quickly and the CEL started flashing, but as soon as I pulled over it stopped flashing. I will try to clean the bottom filter (which was totally clogged) again tomorrow, but if it doesnt work I don't know what else to try. Incin3ration if you have any ideas I would love to hear them!
Ive been having the same problems with my 01 accord, sometimes it wouldn’t even shift while revving. Thank you, you saved me lots of money from buying a new transmission
Thank you so much took me about two hours all I had to remove was the battery, battery tray and battery tray support and those clips shown in the video, and of course the solenoid top itself. Problem with my 2002 Acura Tl Type S with 93K miles. I had hard shifting, not going into gear, super hard shift going into reverse. Engine codes: P0700(A/T System Malfunction) Transmission Codes: P1750(Clutch Pressure Failure), P1751(2-3 Shift Malfunction). I cleaned the screens with Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber and then blew with compressed air. I also changed out the transmission fluid and filter.
Thank you, Thank you. Followed your instructions and also changed the tranny filter and fluid. My wife and son considered my efforts a waste of time. They were talking a repair worth more than the value of the car. I drove 10 miles immediately after cleaning and had absolutely no issues, which would normally occur at about 3 miles or when fully warmed. 105,000 miles at time of cleaning/repair - maybe we will make 200,000. This car still looks great with little rust and a few cracks in the leather. I just replaced fog lights 6 months ago and was ready to pull tires tires, lights and all good components to sell used. BTW, fog lights on the web from $150 - $190 for the pair for DIY. Quote from my Acura dealer $480 per pair with install extra.
Hows the car holding up? and yeah the fog assemblies are a little pricey, but as nice as they are, it's not too surprising. When I got my car, it had a hole in the fog light and I replaced it for $60 from amazon! less than 2 years later, same side got another hole in it, but I caught it pretty quickly. I made a custom replacement lens out of LEXAN Polycarbonate. It's just as clear as glass, but also 250 times stronger. Sealed the edges with some weatherproof silicone and it has held up perfectly!
No codes but had trouble shifting into third sometimes (slip, hard shift), and all gears had a similar but less prominent problem. Center filter was pretty clogged on the top solenoid screen set, and the bottom one was also pretty clogged. Cleaned them out with a q tip and mineral spirits (no air gun...) and transmission runs like new! Thank you so much for this video!!!
Awesome video, I have a 2005 TL and one about a year ago I got that P0740 error code,,, it went away by itself, but I knew something was wrong and feared transmission problems, now I know what to do. Knowledge is power, thank you
Just in case this doesn't work for anyone.. You may consider doing a AV6 swap .. You can goggle it ,but I was short on luck. my transmission shop was/is willing to do it but told me the donor transmission needs to be 20,000 - 45,000 miles. He said with all the V6 trannys up to 2010 are vunerable to slipping after 50-60,000 miles... The issue is still there. Some who did the swap are kinda still riding on luck. But it still worth a shot... I'm gonna still try but I can't find anything under 50,000 anywhere.. But I think it's due to them still being used and possibly rebuilt. But this video is working for me so far after 1 drain & fill .
Really good info. My 1999 Acura CL was not shifting correctly. I followed this video and found the filters completely cogged. I cleaned them out and now it shifts fine and as expected. Thanks!
Thanks so much for making the video! I've got an Acura TL 2002- getting the P0740 code for Torque Converter Clutch Circuit and several sites recommended replacing the $250+ Solenoid but first I'll try cleaning them as you most excellently demonstrated!! Thanks again!
You are very welcome! Yes cleaning these tiny filters can definitely make a worlds difference! Otherwise, replacing the solenoid is still a lot better than spending thousands on a new/rebuilt transmission. Good luck!
My co-worker has a car with transmission issues on their TL and the repair shop was claiming $2500 to fix (about to call and confirm that it really is the solenoids since her son took it in). Even if we were to replace just the solenoids, it shouldn't cost anywhere near that much (found them on RockAuto for ~$150 a piece). Heck, they bought the car for only $3200. I'm down to saving them some $ even if I spend an hour or two to do it myself.
Yah it is a relatively easy job to do. Just a lot of parts to remove first. When I first initially called a transmission shop, they weren't even willing to try and find a solution, but rather just quoted me about $2500 to rebuild the transmission. I said screw that and ended up discovering and fixing the issue myself. I can't guarantee you this will fix your problems, but it has helped most people. Good luck!
I have a 2000 acura tl i just replaced the trans with a used one.it had a similar problem shifting into 3rd gear.i watch your video last night today i did exactly like you did in you video.the bottom selonoid filter was completly clogged with friction material cleaned with throddle body cleaner.test drove it a few miles and it seems to be much smoother ride.great video very informative.thankyou for your help i will subscribe to your channel.thanx again.
It would have been helpful to know you can accidentally blow the screen out of the tube and lose it. I lost two. Guess that's why it's better to clean with a spray than compressed air.
I use seafoam trans tune and did the same work . Its amazing everybody thinks that the transmision are bad or something like that and everything is clogged like those solenoid screens
Most common mistakes made by mechanic technicians is that they mis diagnose the problem and rebuild the whole unit; when it could be a small part that's is wrong! Heat is the enemy of transmissions, most of the time on high mile vehicles it's the shift solenoids that get dirty and cause shifting problems. not all trans are the same in design just like not all transmission builders are any good especially when they rather rebuild than diagnose a common sense problem, nice vid...
Thanks! Yes heat is definitely a problem, which is exactly why this vehicle had a transmission recall to get an oil jet installed. Initially before I figured this solenoid solution out, nobody wanted to diagnose my transmission and just straight up quoted me thousands of dollars to do a rebuild. I hope more people can learn about this relatively simple fix to avoid wasting thousands.
Incin3ration so this fixed your transmission?? All that material in the screen is clutch material so it’s just a matter of time before the problem returns
Thank you for these videos! Although we dont have the same engine we do have the same transmission (2003 honda pilot here that had the oil jet recall over the fill bolt as well...did not know why I couldnt find the fill bolt until I watched your other video! 😂 I filled through the dipstick tube like you do) so your help on these things is very much appreciated! 👍👍😊😊
Running an 2001 Acura Cl with 254,000 miles on original transmission and engine. Will be attempting this project tomorrow. The car seems to not want to change out of higher gears but there is no real jerking, no banging, none of the classic symptoms I have have with other transmissions that went out on me. Thanks for the info I got a P0740 code at autozone today after the engine light and TCS light came on at the same time. TCS turned off after cranking engine again, I will post tomorrow when done and let you know about the results.
Incin3ration well the resistance on the two units were 5.2 just like yours. The screens were medium biuld up but the real problem is the trsnsmission fuild is so old it looks grey. i did not notice any metal flakes just grey, burnt smelling transmission fluid. will be doing the 3 quart drain method commonly seen on other youtube channels. Currently the engine light is off but i assume this is normal and the P0740 code will trigger again ain the near future. Thanks for the help this video is extrrmely helpful at getting me on the right track. As of rigt now the car seems to operate normally. Fingers crossed I'll keep ya posted!
I'm glad it helped! And that little bit of gunk is all it takes to cause a problem. Assuming your transmission is just like mine, make sure you get Honda DW-1 ATF and none of that aftermarket junk. DW-1 is the new and improved formula that replaces Honda's old Z1 ATF. If your ATF really is as black and burnt smelling as you say it is, I might even recommend doing the first drain and fill, driving your car for a week, and then doing another drain and fill the next weekend. The fluid should be red. You can get a case of 12 quarts on eBay for $89 which will last you a good 3-4 years. Obviously with these transmissions being notorious for failing, you can't trust what the manual says in this case. I would recommend making it a habit to do a single drain and fill once every 15,000 miles after this. If your car had the transmission recall done, it might be easier to put the ATF in through the ATF dipstick hole.
my 02 Acura cl died on me when it hit 130k - i replaced it with 06 odyssey transmission - direct fit. no issues ever since. For cheap replacement solenoids - get it from local junk yard - check their odyssey parts
What was your odyssey doing? We were cruising down the highway and it just stopped shifting and wouldn't even rev up. We thought the whole transmission was messed up so we towed it back to the house and then a few weeks later, my husband started it up and was able to drive it around the block. Were thinking that this screen is the problem
Thank you so much for this video and the transmission filter/oil change, my 01 cl type s was having extremely hard shifting , sometimes 3rd wouldn't go into gear and sometimes 1st would lag into 2nd and be a very rough shift. Reverse would be a late and rough shift and so on and so on( at the same time learning how to drive without beating down my trans.) .still going to do a 2nd drain n fill because the bolt was literally covered with sludge and metal😭 the screen filters were so gunked up it took a while to clean them out and had to use a lil tissue and a coffee straw to remove some of the crusted gunk. SO AGAIN in 2020 🙏thank you so much for saving my transmission!
That’s awesome to hear it worked for you! I’m glad my videos could be helpful! Keep up with those transmission fluid changes and these cars will last a very long time!
Does only the lower Solenoid, the one that’s held by 4 bolts, have a gasket? Or does the Top Solenoid have one, too? Thank you for making this Video! I now have the confidence needed to do the work myself on my ‘02 Acura TL. Your instructional videos save me Money 💵
Yeah the bottom one has an all in one gasket and filter. The top solenoid has three o-ring gaskets that go around the tube filters. I'm glad my video was helpful! Good luck to you!
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple thanks, seriously. I any got the first three cleaned before I ran out of sunlight, and couldn't find the last one but I'm gonna look into it more next day off. Just cleaning these three made a huge difference and took the check engine light off
I have the same code on my 2004 Acura TL I checked the screens on the top and bottom solenoids and the screens are clean I just ordered some new solenoids from Acura
Incin3ration hey man so I went to the junk yard and pulled the solenoids off of a 2004 Honda Accord they were only $20 installed them . I also reset the transmission ECU it’s shifting really smooth now!!
@@CarRepairsMadeSimplemost definitely not but thanks to you it is now alot easier! I have 189k og miles. After i do this i will come back and let it be known if jt helped
Yes, I reused the Solenoid Gaskets and the O-ring gaskets. If you lost one or need a new one, they are available on any Acura parts website under the section "AT Sensor - Solenoid."
Well I'm responding back to you I tried it I did everything you said far as cleaning and sealing on it and it's still doing the same thing imma try to the B&C one later this week
Hi Incin, totally awesome instructional video. Really well though out and I appreciate including initial pics and identifying a 2nd solenoid area towards the bottom. I have a 6th generation (98-02) Accord v6 and looking at my engine compartment it appears my transmission is set up the same. Would you be able to concur? I have 200k and started having intermittent shifting delays so I replaced my water pump and timing belt. Of course that was not the problem. I did a transmission fluid change but still have issue. When idling with brake on and shift through gears there is a definite jolt going from D4 to 2. Going back up seems the same when moving from 1 to 2. Sometimes there is a delay into second when starting from stoplight. However I also notice that if I'm heavy on the pedal shifting sometimes seems smoother. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Again thank you, Michael
Long story short... I did clean my screen filters on both solenoids yesterday .. Similar filters were clogged... I also changed my external filter.. It changes smoother but I got the rev up thing again after going uphill and unto a flat.. Thing is when I got the car in 2016 it was sitting for a years plus before so I don't know how the fluid looked or what. My foolish mistake was taking it to Jiffy Lube..but the same symptoms happen even after their fluid change... What I'm very skeptical about is I asked if it was Honda fluid ,they replied it's an equivalent.. I never got around to doing a change because this was the only vehicle working in my home.. My hope is that a 3x3 drain and fill every 1000 miles will solve the rev up issue.. Because it could have been both old fluid,clogged filters and jiffy lube knock off fluid that still making this happen. Will update after Honda fluid change tomorrow.
Yeah these transmissions very specifically require the Honda DW-1 ATF, and it very well could make a difference. And after a drive, park your car on a level surface, turn off the engine, and check the fluid level again. Having the ATF level slightly over/under filled can cause issues as well.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple Okay so I did a drain and fill with DW-1 3 days ago.. Shifts are a bit smoother but I've had 3 times since that the rev up and won't go in gear thing happened. I'm wondering if the 6 or so quarts of Jiffy Lube crap fluid is overpowering the Honda one and heating up due to the expired quailty. Do you feel by the next 2 drain and fills things should improve even more?
@@JJDRProductions There definitely is going to be left over jiffy lube fluid in your transmission after a single drain and fill. Our transmission actually holds about 9 quarts of fluid. So every time you drain and fill 3 quarts, you're only taking out 1/3 of the old fluid. So if you did it 2 more times for a total of 3 drain and fills, you will have removed about 75% of the jiffy fluid, which will definitely improve your transmission even more. It's good to hear things are improving though!
you my friend are awesome, thank you so much for the detailed process. I'm going to follow this step by step on my 01 Acura cl s-type and hope for the best. +1 sub
didn't know you could drive a car in neutral lol Well if you know only the solenoid is bad and not the transmission, you might be in a some luck as a new solenoid only cost about $200 - $250
Solution pls :- My Honda bulldog 1999 D4 light always start to blink when the gear change to 3 or 4, but if i off the engine and start again it will stop but when it change to 3or 4 gear is start to blink again but my speedometer is not work, i need your advice on how to solve the issue
Hey man, great info. Hopefully this will fix my shift delays from 1-2 and 3-4 and my CEL (pressure solenoid failure), without having to totally replace the solenoids, on my ‘01 CL-S. Quick question: did you change the fluid before or after doing this? Trying to decide if it would be better to change the fluid before hand, to avoid having to clean gunk out of those screens again if I change fluid after...will be doing the 3x drain and fill and changing the external spin-on filter as well
If it's an option, yes, I would recommend changing the transmission fluid and spin-on filter first and cleaning the solenoid screen filters after. Of course, it requires the same disassembly to do both jobs, so you can get both done at the same time! Good luck!
yeah the gunk buildup in the screen filters is mainly due to dirty ATF. It also helps if you change the exterior spin on ATF filter as well. I have an entire video about it on my channel!
Man I've been waiting for a video like this I'm having the same problems in my 99 I'm going to get right up on it tomorrow morning hopefully his work and I will send an update by the way did you end up replacing any of them at all or you just clean them all out
I just drove the car around today and it seem like the transmission getting worse and worse so if I don't do it this weekend hopefully I get a chance to swing it supposed to rain in this area where I'm at so I'm definitely going to give it a try and I will let you know
Auto Outlet that is true! I guess my main concern is if you do that, you’d be putting a used 15 year old solenoid back on your vehicle. But I suppose it depends on how much money you want to put in the car and/or how long you plan on keeping it.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple yea definitely, luckily Honda parts are super reliable so they are usually still straight to use. Definitely better paying 10-20 dollars than 300 dollars
Do you think clog up transmission screen can cause shifting hesitation? I have a 2017 Honda with only like 70k miles and i'm surprised there is transmission slippage even after the transmission fluid change.
It’s very possible! If the fluid can’t get to wear it needs to go quickly enough, it can mess everything up. This is a free and relatively easy process that can only do good! Also make sure you only use Honda ATF
Wow 246k that’s awesome, keep up the great work! It certainly won’t hurt anything to check and be safe! But unless you’re experiencing problems, you’re unlikely to find any gunk built up in the screen filters. Best preventative maintenance is to do an ATF drain-and-fill every 15,000 miles
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple thats one thing i slacked on was tranny fluid changes. Kinda scared to change it now. I may send a sample to blackstone and see if they think its ok to change
hi incin3, I just find out the Definition:code was P0730 indicates an incorrect gear ratio.and also said error codes read: P0730,P0401,P1739,P0740.I don't know which one do I need to fix first its hard to tell.thanks
damn dude lol lot of codes you go there. okay, I'll try my best to help. Firstly, P0730, P0740, and P1739 are all transmission error codes. One possible cause for all three of them is low transmission fluid level and dirty transmission fluid. I know you already changed your ATF, but when you did, if it was really dark and dirty, maybe even smelt a little burnt, that could be a very probable cause for your issues. Another possible cause for these codes is faulty solenoids. On top of cleaning the filters, it'd be a good idea to check if power runs through them properly. With some wire and alligator clips, you can connect the wires to your car battery, and touch the pins inside the solenoid connector which will make a distinct click if it's working. Plenty of videos on youtube showing how to do that. You could also do an Ohm test like I did. This could possibly reveal that you need a whole new solenoid. For P1739, that one is very straightforward, there's an issue with the 3rd Clutch Pressure Switch. First, check to make sure it's properly connected, otherwise, you need to replace it. Last code P0401, that's a pretty common code for your car. Basically, you need to clean your EGR passageway. Lucky for you, EricTheCarGuy made a video for your exact car and P0401 code. Look up his video! For more info, go to autocodes.com and type in your CEL codes. Hope this helps!
If you’re still having transmission problems, you could perhaps try doing an ohm test on the solenoids. I’ve had plenty of people tell me changing the solenoids has fixed their problems.
Eric Carlson I would have to guess very similar. Just by going on partsgeek I can see that the 2006 TL has the exact same 2 solenoid's that are on my 2002 TL. and they should be in similar locations I would imagine, it says there's an upper one and a lower one. and just remember to be careful with them! they're worth over $250 each!
Did you also do a video on replacing the tranny filter? It is supposed to be replaced every 30k miles. If you did one but not the other you may still have the same issue.
hey i could really use your help I'm having big problems with me 2002 acura tl type s 150k miles i bought it a month ago it was driving fine only prob was if i didn't warm it up the car would just go into neutral wile i was driving randomly but i would just turn the car off and on and it wouldn't happen again but as long as i warmed the car up nothing happened , i put in a bottle of lucas stop slip because people on message boards said it work and it did for 1 day the car ran perfect then all the sudden on the highway it just started going crazy so i drained the fluid and added 4 qt. of new tranny fluid and the car ran good again for 1 day but now again the car has p0720 and p0730 code the car will go into d5 drive for 20 seconds and then neutral out again so i have to turn it off let it sit and again drives for 20 seconds and neutrals out again , took it to the shop he said i need to rebuild the transmission but i really don't have the money to rebuild so i wanted to see if theres any advice you can give me on something i can do to get this car running again
Interesting, when I was having my transmission problems, it would run fine when cold, but when it warmed up, then it started having problems. Personally, I wouldn't have put the Lucas in at all. All it does is make your ATF thicker which isn't good for this car which already has transmission flow problems, hence the oil jet recall. On top of that, these solenoid screen filters and the exterior ATF filter both of which most people don't think about can actually get clogged over time, and then trying to run thick fluid through those clogged filters won't help anything. Not criticizing you, just letting you know why you should avoid it in the future. P0720 is a "faulty speed sensor" CEL code, which can be caused by your transmission problems. P0730 is a "faulty shift control system" CEL code. This code can be caused by improper maintenance of your ATF or a faulty solenoid. So start with these things: did you clean these solenoid screen filters yet? How's the electrical current in the solenoids? When was the last time your exterior ATF filter was changed? How does your ATF look? Bright red, dark red, brown, or black? Where's your ATF level at? If it's too high or too low, that can cause symptoms and possibly damage to your transmission. To check it, bring your car to full operating temperature, park your vehicle on a perfectly level surface, turn off the car, and check the ATF dipstick. Make sure you use authentic Honda DW-1 ATF fluid.
This solenoid affects all gears. There are, however, oil pressure switches that affect certain gears. You can check out my other video for more information on that! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_I8zfFmVZZI.html
Incin3ration I have a 2003 tl that just started too slip . My dad checked it and it was not clogged. It would drive fine but if your going slower it would not go into gear ( Almost like in neutral) it was replaced in 2009 with a new transmission but hasn’t had any problems since . What would you recommend - if you turn the car off and restart it - it will drive fine for awhile then it won’t have any power
+Laura Elliott does it slip at slower speeds all the time or maybe just when it's cold? Also how clean is the transmission fluid? And make sure the ATF level isn't low or overfilled. Lastly, any check engine codes?
Incin3ration thanks for your reply back ! My dad changed the transmission fluid 2 weeks ago ( and it was driving fine everyday up until this Saturday) the check engine light was not on after a flew slips then it came on . We checked the fluid level and it was fine . Now the engine light is on.
John Salster Very well! This definitely fixed the problem. My last update was at about 1000 miles, I'd say it's been about 2000 miles now, and everything is running great!
wow 2017 and if the solenoids are good presto just saved 300+ in parts and took me about a good 2 and. a half hours later and what do you know trans shifts like my Infiniti smooth and fast I am going to do a drain and refill on trans fluid asap was brown and not 🍒 red will update with the progress but thinks again everyone kept telling me it was the trans but the trans was fairly new my lower one and two of the top ones were the culprit I didn't use air gun used some brake cleaner made them look brand new and of course cleaned the solenoids themselves along with area any other post I'll follow I thought I was gonna have to junk my 2003 beauty now just need to figure out blower motor and install fog and light bulb on driver's side and I'm done
I'm glad to hear it worked! Yah definitely change that fluid, could be an underlying cause for the clogged filters. Might I also recommend changing the ATF filter if that hasn't been done in a while. I actually just uploaded a video on how to do that if you need help.
I’ve ever heard of them getting stuck before, I guess don’t be afraid to use some muscle! Just try to remember to remove it mostly straight up so you don’t bend the little tubes inside it.
This was well detailed. I have a 2003 RSX with the same symptoms on a rebuilt transmission with only 5k miles on it. I’m hoping it’s only the screens. The shop close a year ago. 😳
It's very possible! Basically, this code means something is obstructing the flow of transmission fluid through the valve body, such as the filters shown in this video. Give them a clean! It's free and can only do good for your car. Also, check your transmission fluid. When was the last time you changed it? Is it really dark, dirty, or smell burnt? Is the transmission fluid level low? These are also very possible symptoms of your CEL. Check out my other video on transmission fluid for more info! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-SjYVD2WCrCM.html
Idk if your still active bro but at 11:02 after you take off the top solenoid there's a u shaped rubber hose right there, I have P1751 and when it tries to shift into 5th D5 will start blinking and it still does that after I cleaned the solenoids but that rubber hose isn't connected on my transmission it's just loose and the bottom side is just out. Do you think if I try to reconnect it that will fix the code?
Looks like the tube you're speaking of is a breather tube of some kind. My guess is it controls and allows air to move in and out of the transmission during heat cycles where expansion and contraction occur, otherwise too much pressure would build up in the transmission. It should certainly be connected, and it can only cause problems by being not connected. Whether or not it fixes your exact issue, I don't know since there's not a lot of information on this little tube. Otherwise, P1751 would indicate a problem with shift solenoid valve B (12-25 ohms) and the dual solenoid (about 5 ohms) shown in this video. Do an ohm test if you haven't already. Otherwise, there's a chance these solenoid need to be replaced. Before you do that though, I would also make sure your transmission fluid level is correct and that the fluid is red and clean. Use only Honda DW-1. Good luck!
I need help I don't know what tools to use I have a 2003 Acura TL base 3.2 check engine light poppped up and it shift all gears al the way to 5 when I'm at 40-60mph do you think this will fix it .? Because I heard the 2003 transmissions are differently placed please help me I wanna fix it myself then getting t rebuilt for 1500$
Yes, this has helped countless people and can help you too! The best part is it's free to do! Also, you're 2003 transmission is exactly the same as mine. Just follow the video and everything should look exactly the same.
Incin3ration do I change the top filter or bottom because the video didn't show where you got the gasket out from and what tools bits did you use I need the exact same im going work on my car today
you don't have to change the filter, just clean the junk out. I'm also assuming you're talking about the gasket/filter at 15:03? it's literally attached to the solenoid. If it didn't come off with the solenoid, it's more than likely stuck to the surface of the car where you took it off from. And every single tool you see in this video is what I used.
Just did this for my 1999 TL, car is shifting great now and the check engine has not returned yet. Im still kina scared because I read up that P0740 means a dying transmission. But I don't know about that.
Awesome to hear! Yup the "Code of Death" as they call it. I can't help but wonder how many people spent thousands replacing their transmission when the problem was as simple as this!
yah give this a try jipsee1! definitely can't hurt anything! The car getting stuck in "neutral" when you try to change gears are normal symptoms. Cleaning the solenoids have fixed many peoples transmission!
thanks.. told needed 2nd 3rd gear and also won't reverse who heated up the d5 light flash after awhile of driving i have 2001mdx wit 150k...i owe 2k can't afford to pay for new transmission other than that runs great!!
Yea I have a 1997 honda prelude an I have a p1773 code saying a/t clutch control solenoid b circuit malfunction....an I went to az they said that piece was 250$ as well an I hope I could clean it an take care of that problem as well but hopefully I can just replace one of the solenoids which a 50$ piece...
Yeah cleaning these filters has helped a lot of people! If it doesn't work and you buy another solenoid, I would highly advise not buying an aftermarket part. Go with OEM Genuine Honda. I agree $250 is steep, so maybe you could find a used one at a junkyard or ebay. If you need help finding a part # let me know.
Incin3ration thanks bro I appreciate it!! I actually did what you said in the video I took apart the solenoid a an b an sprayed them with carberator cleaner an reassembled everything left positive termimal on batt off for 30sec to reset cel..an so far so good no light or malfunctions:)))))))))) only thing now is to fix my ignition switch...apperently the ignition switch has a recall on it causing the car to stall....so waiting on Honda to repair the problem...free of charge of course:)))
Yah those can definitely be difficult to remove. It’s been a long time, but it was probably just a standard pair of pliers. Maybe spray the metal with a little wd-40 to help get it off
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple i'd tried everything but could not remove it, and also those 6 bolts on the linear solieod iI got the last bolt and could not remove it I put PB blast on it and no bueno 🥲
are the filters all the same size for a base 3.2L? i checked acura part sites and they show them all the same length, but on honda sites for the same engine, they are all 3 different lengths.
They do vary in size depending on the exact year, make, and model. For the 2000-2003 base and Type-S TL's, all three filters are the same length (8x18 Pipe) as far as I'm aware. On the 99 TL, they're different lengths. I would recommend going off of what the Acura website says. I personally like acurapartsforless.com.
I replaced my dual linear solenoid after I broke one of the connectors on the old one and replace my transmission fuel pressure switch and now it’s shifting hard from 1st to 2nd shift and the check enlighten is on now with a P0750 code. Do you think it’s the solenoid that’s makin it shift hard still? No check engine before I replaced it. What’s typically the problem with that code?
I would start by making sure your ATF is clean and not over/under-filled. Dirty fluid or an improper level can easily cause problems on these vehicles. Otherwise, it sounds like the replacement solenoid you got is faulty. Try performing an ohm test on it. Idk if you bought an OEM or aftermarket solenoid, but I've heard people say the aftermarket ones don't work well.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple I’ll try that out then and yes it’s definitely aftermarket. I put more fluid in it because the reading was off, one side had fluid residue other was nothin at times. The level is better after I added two quarts. I changed the fluid about a month ago and filter. May have not put enough at the time. The TSA light and D5 is on as well.
@@cjhickson8557 back when I got p0740, I also got flashing d5 and vsa lights all coming on, so I’d say that’s normal. Also, idk if you’re using Honda DW-1 or aftermarket ATF, but I’ve also heard aftermarket fluid can make shifting noticeably harder.
Hi Incin3ration, I just bought a 2002 TL, and I've noticed that the third gear kinda jerks a little. a couple of times the car didn't shift into 3rd gear. DO you think cleaning the transmission solenoid would help?? thanks
+Fadi alsaidi It's very possible this could help. One thing is for sure, this won't hurt anything. Cleaner filters are better filters. I had that same problem, not being able to shift into third, then I'd have to bring it back down to second then third again, or put it in neutral and then back into drive. I'd say give it a go!
+Joseph C. I don't know if it would have. I couldn't find a mechanic who is willing to do it, and I am definitely not mechanically inclined. I ended up rebuilding the transmission.
Also no one seems to say what specific transmission fluid to use I went to the Honda dealership they try to sell dw1 Honda and on Amazon it says that won’t fit my car and recommended some aisin brand dw1 at Acura i got a qt and the parts service guy said that if they ever ran out they would just order from the Honda dealership a shipment until they get more of there’s in stock that it’s the same but it doesn’t say on the websites or forum then another fluid popped up z1 the car has near 170k having shifting issues mainly 4th and 5th
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple part number 08200-9008 that’s the Honda dw1 and the Acura has the same numbers just an A at the end he said it’s the same as the red cap one they tried to sell at Honda dealership and Acura said that both dw1 is the same just an A at the end for rebadging I got one qt just to lubricant the filter parts and maybe add since some will spill but on Amazon it says it’s not for my car but at the dealerships that what they did try to sell me what u recommended and dealer did Amazon must be on crack trying to make the transmission slip even more buying there junk
well dirty screens in the first place show that something isn't right internally. Only other thing I can recommend off the top of my head is to check the condition of your ATF. Is it nice and red, or is it dark, brown, or black? Furthermore, when was the last time your exterior ATF filter was changed? Lastly, make sure your ATF level isn't too high or low. There's also the possibility the solenoids themselves are going bad, which is why I put the ohm test at the end. Also, try entering your CEL codes at autocodes.com. Good luck man.
I have the error code for solenoid problem. I asked a mechanic and he said it could cost hundreds of dollars for just the parts. What do you think it would cost to ask a mechanic to take it apart and clean the filters like you did? I do not have the tools for taking apart components in an engine.
I can tell you this job can take a good 2 maybe 3 hours. So even if you took your car to a dealership where they charge like $110 per hour, it should still cost you less than $300. Obviously, if you take it to a local trusted mechanic, it'll cost even less.
Hey I have a question for my 2003 TL type S, my cars transmission is slipping and not shifting gears sometimes with the error code P1750. What do you recommend I replace?
The problem regarding that code involves the solenoid located on top of the transmission, which I removed at 10:35. If you have already ensured that the filters are clear of debris, the next step would be to replace the solenoid itself. The part number is 28250-P6H-024. It's an expensive part at $323 + shipping, but I would still highly recommend getting an OEM Genuine Honda part, not something aftermarket as I've heard of aftermarket solenoids not working properly. While you're at it, I would also recommend replacing your transmission fluid with Honda DW-1 if it looks dark or smells burnt. Good luck!
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple thanks I’ll look that part up. This only occurs when I have been driving for around 15-20 mins when the engine is hot. The shifting will be really jerky and when I press the gas the car will not accelerate. Please let me know if that’s the right part, I just want to make sure
Kevin Lau if you had 1 specific gear that had problems, maybe. But you seem to be having general overall slipping and shifting problems with a code that directly points you to the control solenoid that I mentioned before, in which case I wouldn’t start randomly throwing money at other parts hoping for the best.
I don't know about both codes. P0740 refers to the 2 TCC solenoids I cleaned in this video and cleaning the screen filters is the absolute best place to start. If you know your fluid is looking pretty bad and dark, as well as improper fluid level, that may very well be the underlying cause of your codes too. In which case, we can only hope the neglect hasn't caused too much damage. I would also recommend changing the exterior ATF filter while you're at it. If you do all this and you still have P0740, you'll probably need to change the solenoids themselves which are rather pricey. P0780 refers to a faulty shifting solenoid valve, and there are 4 of those. Just for reference, the part numbers for my car are 28400-P6H-013 & 28500-P6H-013. There are 2 of each. Maybe do an ohm test on those solenoids on your car to find which one is bad and possibly causing the other P0780 code.
I's so glad you answered my question I just posted today. I should have looked at other replies before asking. I can't wait to get my 2003 honda pilot back running. I'm have a friend watch this video it's great. thank you for your reply I'll let you know how it came out. Thank God for youtube.
That has to do with your engine and VTEC, which kicks in at high RPM's. One cause for that code is dirty engine oil, improper engine oil level, or abnormal oil pressure. So make sure you change your oil frequently enough, and also it's at the proper level. Otherwise, it might be the valve timing oil pressure switch assembly, part number 37250-PR3-003 located near your oil filter. Worst-case scenario, you replace this part, which is $81 + shipping. There's lots more information in the service manual: cardiagn.com/2007-08-acura-tl-vtec/
