For anyone wanting to go the inexpensive route. All the tools I needed or used was A socket wrench, 10mm &12mm sockets, A 2 or 3 inch extender. (I had all this and more in a cheap ass socket set I got from advanced Auto for like $5-$10) A flat head screw driver, a Philips screwdriver driver. A set of two metal hose Pinchers ($12 from autozone) with these a little coolant still spilled but not enough I needed to add any. And hose pincher pliers? Not sure if that's what there called but they look like thick hook shaped pliers with a screw on the end of one handle that you use to widen or shorten the mouth. (I used these to squeeze the metal hose clamps so I could move them up and remove the hoses from the broken inverter pump and onto the new one).
Great video. Really helped me out. Took me about 45min. I used the bleed valve to get the air out as well. I used 1/4in inner diameter vinyl tubing from home depot to bleed the air out of the system. It was stupid easy. It was shocking how much air there was so make sure you don't forget this step. Having air in the coolant system is no good. My CEL didn't turn off automatically but I just reset/cleared it with my OBDII bluetooth tool. It's been working great for months now without anymore issues.
That top mount that was removed on the video, will it need to be torqued back to the motor? Or just bolted down? Just curious, because one moment it was off and then back on and no information was given. Just need clarification, he also ran the car without that mount just wanted help. Thanks!
This made it real easy for me to follow thx! My inverter kicked the bucket. And your straight forward video was very helpful. For some reason after putting it all back together, there's like a mm of space below the headlight, like it's not quite flush as before, yet everything is as fit as I can figure out. Everything's screwed in. So hopefully that won't cause any issues when it rains. My error 🤷♀️🙃
I also left that small stabilizer bar attached to the actual inverter screwed in and didn't remove it. The nuts were not budging and I didn't feel confident enough in myself that I could get it the same tightness again if I did get it loosened. Considering the headlight removed gave me plenty of space, it wasnt really in the way much thankfully.
I was going to say why not just use the replacement metal frame but it turns out that the screw that holds the frame down on the left can "die" (break) easily so yeah good idea to replace it at the 3 screws instead.
Hi, I popped the same code. When I checked initially, the coolant still looked like it was circulating. Should I still go ahead and try replacing the pump? It hasnt been replaced to my knowledge since I have had the car, but could there be something else triggering the code since the coolant was moving?
Did you notice turbulence in the reservoir. I just did mine. The pump is running I feel the liquid going through hoses. Bled the system but no air. Any thoughts? Thanks!
I just did this replacement during my lunch time from work and that connector was almost "glued on" I used a small flat head screw driver to lift the tab from the bottom as I was pulling up
What all do you need to change the water pump? Ty...this is a 64yo female asking. Just in case you're thinking, "boy this person doesn't know much" lol