P2646 Honda Accord ,VTC strainer, Cleaning The Screens 

just fixed my daughter's 2003 accord. i just replaced the entire VVT solenoid. the RPM now rev as normal & shifting while driving is once again smooth. thanks!

Great video. My shop spends major money every month to have access to repair info from both Alldata and Mitchell. You provided info I couldn't find on either of those.

For self filming you do a great job. And thanks for the lack of background music. Very precise and to the point video. Now to tackle a valve timing sprocket on my 2009 Accord. Rattles like crazy upon cold starts.

Thank you. I try to treat everyone right. And i try to take pictures along the way so if i need to explain anything to them.

Thanks for taking the time to make and post this video. My husband used this information on a Honda CR-V and it fixed the problem. He had a 2646 code and it was bucking really bad. No codes now and it's running really smooth. I'm sure it saved us a big mechanics bill!

People already said but yeah, good video to the point...I love the amateur video quality in terms of the guy is holding the camera while wrenching on the car literally,... one handed shakey but still on the target... and good before during and after shots... not too long or chatty...

I had the exact same problem with my 2004 CR-V. However, i took the easy way out and it worked perfect. I changed the oil, replaced the oil filter, added 5 oz of Seafoam. This did the trick and stopped the bucking.

Great video, lots of good info. One thing I have heard though is you don't typically want to use brake cleaner on rubber gaskets. It can degrade the material. But hey she either holds or leaks.

I was not aware of the second oil screen on the front of the engine even after watching many other video's. That's very good information. I just bought a 2005 Honda Element with the 2.4ltr engine with 148,000 miles with of course no warranty and 20 miles later it started shuttering and the engine light came on. Error codes P2646 and P2647 came up. Found out it was a quart low on oil, but it had clean oil in it. Added one quart this morning and 13 miles later on my way to work it was shuttering more often and had no power for about 5 - 10 seconds if I gave it a lot of throttle. I bought new oil and filter and a new EVTS assembly. Going to replace everything tomorrow night after work weather permitting. Me being a retired motorcycle technician "mostly Japanese brands" and machinist, most external 6mm bolts are torqued to 6 - 7 ft. lbs. And are a grade 4 - 8.

Yes the screens are a good thing. It has variable valve timing.Oil pressure at higher speeds lock another set of rockers to the low speed ones.Kinda like having the best of both worlds as it kinda runs on two different grinds of cam. It would be harder to clean out the oil passages than the screens.

Very helpful video. Thank you, saved me a bunch of trouble with the local mechanics.

Yea who would ever think a little screen could cause one to run so bad. It is because of all the little oil passages needed for the variable valve timing. Thanks for watching

(Variable Timing Control) , VTC Strainer, should be the screens. Or sometimes called strainer assembly. Lots of them can just be cleaned.Thanks for watching

Great video, although it doesn't really show the effort involved with getting to the VTC strainer. Depending on the year, you have a very tight space to work with when unbolting and relocating the power steering pump and removing the belt tensioner. In order to get access to the bottom bolt of the tensioner on a 2006 CRV, you must remove the motor mount bracket. Count on lots of sockets and other tools falling down in the process. It's worth the effort, but take your time and don't get too frustrated.

Hey, thanks a bunch for this. I used your video a year or so ago then came back to it again when the issue popped back up. Cleaning the screen is easier than changing the oil! (Which I obviously don't spend much time doing, lol!)

Yes I un plunged the battery. Thanks for watching

If not leaking much just make a mess, I would fix the leak it is not that bad of a job. Thanks for watching

Good call... my 2006 CRV had same Light and code.... oil , filter and both screens changed... problem gone....cheers

If this is the problem you should get a check engine light. Should be a cam code. The oil passages are very small up in the rockers ,maybe one of them are plugged. Wondering if locking pin for rockers is moving freely.

I guess you probably figured it out by now but there is a problem clearing that code. Sometimes you have to clear it 3 or 4 times to get rid of it. Good video. Thanks

I changed both and my vtec kicks in way better now eve with 175,000 miles

2008 Honda Element, this fixed the issue! Thanks for posting!

Nice!! Thanks for this video. I have the same codes and the same symptoms. Ill do just that.

Thanks for posting this video, getting the bolts off the tensioner was the most difficult part but was a fun and easy fix overall 👍🏼

Had the same problem. Was a little intermittent would you at one day not the next. Then a few days ago, didn't matter every time I start the car 2000 RPM bog down wouldn't run consistent issue. Code scanner identify the same code. I've got 310,000 miles. The car runs great but it uses oil. I'm usually down about a quart every couple of tanks. Oil was overdue for a change. But I don't worry too much about because I add enough oil over time. And I do use high quality oil filters. Anyway, it started doing this I hooked up the code scanner verified the code, I actually put a quart of seafoam in the crankcase as I normally do before an oil change after about 10 minutes, the problem went away. I am not saying that seafoam cured the issue. All I'm saying is This lends itself to the fact that if you let your oil accumulate a lot of dirt and sludge that it contributes to this error code and fault. Adding seafoam, I believe just cleaned up the screens in the censors enough to solve the issue temporarily. Anyway I ran to seafoam for about 40 miles took the car oil drop the oil, drop the power steering pump and the tensioner. Hold the first screen it did have some junk in there that I cleaned out I pulled the VVT sensor off the back side I cleaned it out I put it all back together fresh oil phresh filter, I've been running it now another thousand miles no issue.

Well I'm glad this video came up when I googled common oil leaks on a 2002 crv. That first thing is what i have spraying oil out of. Looks like I'll change both of these filters out while I'm working on this stupid thing lol

Ive been fighting with this code for the better part of a year. Ive changed the vtec solenoid entirely, changed the oil, changed the filter, changed the VVT solenoid, cleaned the oil pressure switch below the vtec. The only thing i haven't done is the screen behind the tensioner pully because theres no way to get to it without removing the power steering pump and tensioner pully. Dam. Code just will not go away

Thank you. Happy Birthday Darrin.

How did u clean the second screen? The same process like the first one?

My self I would clean the screens. The screens are there so nothing gets up in the small passages of the valve train.If Seafoam was to break some of it up and it gets past the screens it may be costly. And how much more stuff in the engine may end up there after something like that.

May have some bits of carbon up in valve train. Hope you get it sorted.

I also had the same problem with my honda accord 2005 code p2647. Check engine light on, bogs at 3000rpm. Went shopping on ebay for vtec solenoid $87, way cheaper then honda dealer. I waited for 3 days for the part to arrived. i replaced by removing three sizes 10 screws behind the engine. Now, check engine light never came back on, car runs good....

Great video. By chance, were you about to drive on Hwy 119? Looks like you're here in Alabama

Did it stop doing it? Ours comes and goes. Check eng goes off too. I had code last fall for O2 sensor and Cat convert.

We just bought an 04 Honda Cr-v a few weeks ago, had to buy a new battery a few days ago, then this same situation occurred. The dealer has offered to split cost of repair which is most appreciated. We have a 1997 with over 600,000 miles on it and already I feel like we should have searched longer to find one of the older models like ours to purchase. Gas mileage was better on the older one too. Anyway, we are in the Akron Canton area, and would love to have another mechanic contact to help keep this 04 going. If you are in that area and wish to message me with your email or cell# it would be much appreciated. Thanks!

Keep using the cheapest oil filter and you are gonna learn how to clean all the filters and strainers 😄

thanks you are the best! I will try repairing my 2004 honda civic and Ill let you know.

Looks like your up around Franklin, North Carolina on those mountain roads.

Thanks for the video. So was the throttle cutout occurring when it was trying to crossover into VTEC? I have a Honda where the VTEC comes on for about the first 30 minutes of driving but after that it cuts out when going into VTEC. Could this be because it takes a while for the gunk in the oil to gum up the VTEC strainer?

What if I replaced the screens wit new ones and stil have the same problem

nice video and fix a family member have same vehicle whit same problem goin to start in this thank you.

@ 207 you have the power steering pump off. Maybe you should have shown us what bolts you removed

did the light go out my car doing the same thing my 04 honda accord ex so should i replace both parts or clean them out

=/ i just got this same light that goes on and off... looks simple enough thanks to your tutorial.

would have been very helpful to show the location of the bolts on the tensioner when it was in.

Thank you for posting this. It happened to my wifes car yesterday. Did that O2 sensor code clear later? Ours came wit the 2426 and a 0420 code.

I did replaced that strainer on my crv 👍!

Thanx for this video. How often has this filter (3:00) to be changed ?

I keep having the same problem on my Acura. I changed the solenoid 2 times and it keeps happening

Thanks I have this same problem on my 2004 honda accord, I cleaned out the strainers following your tips, and the car drove like brand new for about 90 miles. Then car started bucking again when i try to throttle down. Any suggestions please I am getting frustrated.

Damn that car has more lights on than a Christmas tree..

nice job that was a good fix it video,

What are the torque specs for the strainer bolts in the front of the engine?

Did the Check engine light shut off... later after cleaning it?

Great, Thanks for posting it, helped me solve my problem .

Could it be the same problem if 2007 Accord is difficult to crank and runs rough while idling with no power at any speed. It has the P2646 and P0139 codes you mentioned plus P0420 and P0341. Trying to help out a friend so a mechanic won't take advantage of her.

Hey I have question about any idea how much this should cost to fix, I just brought car to shop got charged 450$ got the car back and they didn’t even fix it

its kinda late but i want to say you should take the - from the battery off for like 2 minutes to let the ECU reset and than the check engine light should go away

How long did this take to do? How much would this cost? What tools do I need?

did the cel finally go out after the clean of the strainer?

my solenoid gasket was stuck to the motor when I try taking it off it broke in pieces does this mean I'm going new a whole new part?

Is this for a V6 or a 4cyl? My car stall on occasion but at higher speeds over 90 mph

Where did you get the part from Honda or aftermarket?

Thank you sir, great info here

How did you get the bottom bolt out the spool valve? I can only get two bolts out the third is too hard to reach. Any suggestions? 2004 accord

Thank you very much.

i just got the same thing happening to my 2005 crv.. where are you from? sure looks like nova scotia roads

Great video, thanks !!

I had a P2646 code on my 2006 Honda Accord EX. It hesitates on acceleration but does not cut out, just sort of misses. Brought it to Firestone and had the oil changed and they changed the oil pressure switch which fixed the prob for 10 days. Last night, while accelerating from a stop light, it hesitated and the CEL came on again. It does not occur if I rev the engine in park or neutral. Brought it to Auto Zone and they read the code as, you guessed it, P2646. I am wondering if the switch changing was unnecessary and the problem really lies with the screens. I don't know whether to take it back to Firestone, take it to the Honda dealer (really don't like this option) or find a good ex-Honda mechanic. Could there be any other issues that could cause this code? Could it be a bad oil pressure switch solenoid. I have always been really good about changing my oil but this last time I went 3000 miles over the 0% indicator. Thanks!

How can I get or order the first little 2 bolt cover?

do u need to use any kind of bond?

quick question, why is your airbag light on?

I have the same problem with my 2004 accord, I cleaned out the strainers as you advised and I must confess that the car drove like brand new for about 90 miles then the bucking started again when I try to throttle down. what else can I do or any other suggestions please? getting frustrated here, thanks.

how much to fix this?

good job.

does the vtech solenoid fit the 4cyl and v6?

Do you have the torque specs?

Nice

Thank you.

this video is show that strainer have so much cheap run so long and look like sludged or carbon deposit so much around the strainer.. that y is start clogged bad and poor oil travel not passage well into VTec system..........

What is the code for no gas. LoL

Bro the same thing happened to my car, can you inbox me

use Risoline and avoid doing this.

lol you have to put pressure on the oil plug while u are screwing it out and then let go fast...

Only place I could find info on VTC strainer. This guy knows what he is doing not just trying to be movie star

Yea it tried hard to keep my socket. Thanks for watching.

Thanks for the video. Remove the manifold heat shield (three screws) and you would have fantastic access to the VTEC solenoid. Get a reflection mirror and you can see everything there...

Great job, i have a similar problem with my 06 accord, very helpful.

great vid. something I found out in my experience is if it starts cutting out at 3k rpm check the oil level. I didn't know i had a leak and that was my first symptom. At 3k rpm it would cut out and be unresponsive to the gas pedal until i shifted into neutral and back in to drive. I'm here cause i get a check engine light randomly and it bucks a bit under load at higher rpm so i think i need to clean that screen.

My 03 Element was doing this EXACT same thing and same code, I thought my transmission was slipping or about to go out. Is there any way 'Seafoam' might clean this gunk out by putting it into the oil with a fresh oil change?

Thanks for making this video, had the same issue with my buddies crv, I did the same as you showed in the video, it worked, i asked him after it was done when was his last oil change he chuckled said like 2 years, thanks for sharing a video, helped me out, thank you

Awesome video, the sort of info that will save folks 000's or even 0000's on repair costs. I've been out of it too long! did not know about screens being there, I suppose tolerances are so fine on motors now they need back ups like that right? Scott

Had the same problem with my 2005 CRV. As the vehicle ages the screen cleanings are becoming more frequent. Strange thing is why there is a screen on that part in the first place. Well we know why because we have to keep cleaning the filter but the regular engine oil filter should not allow this crud to pass to the VTEC controller. Odd to say the least. I fell sorry for people who have taken their vehicles to dealers only to be hosed for unnecessary parts. I read more then one post one dealers changing out ABS modulators at a cost of $2,000. Criminal crooks dealerships are.

god damn, i was trying to get the tension pulley off with the nut on the pulley.

Looked like it was in limp mode at the beginning. Glad you got it sorted out. I prime all my oil filters too, I also lube my gasket. I think the blinking odometer is a reminder to change the oil that can be reset. That also might get the check engine light to go off.

Not sure with out looking, but It may need a upstream O2 Sensor. If you can get it hooked to a scanner that has live data you could see if the O2 sensor is working. Most car part places only read you the codes and no live data. Before replacing parts it is a good idea to test them first, a O2 code does not make it a bad sensor all the time..

I didn't saw any engine check lights but still had these 2 filters replaced and the car is running much better now :) I had no idea these kind of filters existed.

I have had the P2646 code twice. Both times, It was the day after a very hard day long rain, and I also had not driven it the day it was raining. Both times, I drove it for a couple miles the day after the rain, stopped at a store, started it back up and pulled out only to get the code and limp mode. I think I need to check the wiring.

I think a lot of these get fixed when swapping out parts simply because they pulled off the wire connectors and re-seated them making a good connection.

Just a small tip for the VTEC solenoid: the gasket is well known that it breaks/leaks after some while (mine was already leaking at 70.000 miles). It costs like nothing, just replace it.