Well done! This is a great kit! I built one awhile back & thought I'd try an eduard next BUT you can get the Tamiya kits for under $30. I paid $22 shipped 🤗
Fantastic job as always and it's very nice to hear you and also I love the videos that folks do like these that have you talking and explaining your process !!! Excellent, brill stuff. Hope your well matey and your family ? Stay safe mukka
I HAVE BUY TWO TAMIYA P-51D MODEL MUSTANG IN 1/48 SCALE. ONE IS MADE AS THE CHINESE KMT AIR FORCE DURING WW2 WHICH FIGHTING AGAINST THE JAPANESE. ANOTHER ONE IS MADE AS THE CHINESE PLAAF AFTER 1949
It's great to see someone build an excellent model OTB with an older, inexpensive kit. Great Job! BTW, abtielung is pronounced AB-tile-ung... German for battalion
No issues. Id just recommend using PVA glue so you dont damage the paint finish. Get some soft (foam) blocks to stabilize the tanks and hold them in place while they dry
I’m an armor modeler but recently picked up a few birds to build. I’m working on the 1:48 REVELL P-51D right now. Thanks for the simple explanation and showcasing your great build! I’m excited to work on mine even more now haha
Revells are kind of spotty, quality-wise. Parts often don't fit well... I understand they've improved since Hornby bought them, though. Hope your kit's a good one 😀. Me, I'd go with Tamiya or Airfix every time.
@@Greggs.Dioramas.Scalemodels Yup. I was being generously polite... 😎. Revell's been crap since I was kid 50 years ago. I try to find unboxings and reviews for everything now, if I can. You never know if things have changed... I don't usually toss stuff, though. It can always be used for painting practice...
That's a really good idea abut using a small amount of glue on the landing doors before painting. This will save me so much time. Apologies if I missed you saying so, but I'd be interested in why you took a different approach with the canopy? I've got this plane and am new to modeling and am looking forward to starting it soon.
If I mess up the canopy (overspray) then its harder to fix since its a clear part. Nothing wrong with fixing it in place before painting and Ive seen many people do it, you just have to be a little more careful. When you see me use a canopy to protect the cockpit during painting, its usually because there's a spare variant that came with the kit.
The aluminum color Im using from Alclad will not show up properly without a black basecoat. Depending on the type of silver/aluminum paint you are using, a black basecoat could look completely different than a grey basecoat.
I might have been out of gloss black at the time. I likely would have still polished it even if I used gloss black though. It helps guarantee a smooth surface.
Hi! You are brushing the instrument panel in the cockpit as a final touch, to make it look more like metal, what is that process and what kind of color do you use?
Did you not encounter any issues with painting over the Tamiya polished surfaces? I never tried that as I am a bit worried that these compounds might leave some residue behind that will interfere with my metal paint coats.
I had the same concern at first, but I never had any issues with residue. There will be some polish that gets stuck in the panel lines and I just sprayed over it and it looked fine afterwards.
I'm calling BS on putting the antenna wire through the canopy. I can't find any image of a D model mustang with such a set up. Please share your source.
Search "p51 d mustang 1945 antenna". While most pictures are too grainy to definitively say, I found 2 references from the era: www.bchsnow.org/artifact.cfm?id=271&featured=WWII_P51D&caption=P-51D%20Mustang%20at%20Corvallis%20Air%20Show Pause the video at 18:06 - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CzLRlwHExqE.html Ive read the debates as to whether the 8th AF did/did not have this wire...may not have been present. But I did find reference photos of P51-D's with the wire going through the canopy.
You should give yourself a pat on the back though. You wouldn't believe how many modelers with much more experience than you forget one important thing. The pit floor of a 51 is plywood. B,C and D models. So congrats to you! The 51 looks good
Yes they had wood floors, but all came from the factory with a black rubber coating. If wanted some of the black can be scratched away to show a little of the wood.
Just to let anyone who is interested i have Alclad but where i live its really hard to find it. So i tried out the Vallejo metal colors and they are practically the same as Alclad in my opinion in optic results. Just in case anyone has trouble finding one or the other. Brilliant video by the way.
I probably could have used PVA just fine, but I happened to pick Tamiya extra thin instead. I do like the viscosity of extra thin and that it either evaporates or falls directly into the cracks between parts
hmmm Ive never tried to pre shade under a nmf so I would just be guessing. Maybe spray a little weaker on your panel lines so some of your black undercoat still shows through. Theres also the option of post shading
The landing gear struts were on backwards....embarrassing lol. I sawed them off this morning, drilled a hole in each one, inserted wire to help strengthen where I would re attach, then superglued in place.
@@ThePigBallz Ive flip flopped multiple times on my opinion of the necessity of primer. Ive used Mr Surfacer 1000 primer on my last few builds and the results have been good. Im not convinced its a "must" though because Ive also had good results with Tamiya sky grey.
