I have never bought an all in one before but if I had dealership work than an all in one makes sense. The product looked like it performed well and it did lay down enough protection for a month! Thank you for another video!
I'd like to use separate steps when doing my own vehicles, but I definitely think there's a place for all-in-one and I have used it on other peoples vehicles. One of my favorites is koch chemi.
@@apexdetail85 Vonixx, 3DSpeed, Angel Wax Resurrection?, Rupes Uno, Giots, McKees Graphene. Any others that you may have or curious to try yourself? Maybe a separate area where you apply BC3 to see if it’s longevity is affected?
Brian, thanks for the video. Yes, if the customer has a budget, I will use 3D Speed, but then will top with Ceramic Wax or Seal 'N Shine or a ceramic detailer.
AIOs are great for me, doing this mobile and just trying to get some enhancement and quick removal of clay bar marring on an average job. I will say though, as I've recently found, BC3 does a fantastic job at helping to remove the residue of my AIO of choice (Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions - Polish and Wax) along with a damp + dry mf towel. I let the wax sit on a black SUV for almost half an hour in direct sun (in Florida) the other day and one spritz into the towel took it off like nothing. Bottom line, the AIO works beautifully for me to exfoliate and enhance the paint, and lay down some protection, but going in with a towel "primed" with the BC3 afterwards not only helps with removal, but adds some more tenacious protection and ensures even coverage. My go-to combo at this time.
Is there any reason you only use the 60 degree measuring angle when using a gloss meter? I was under the impression for higher gloss readings (above 80GU) you should swap to 20 degrees for more accuracy. Would be interesting to have a video on it explaining what gloss units are achievable on different colours of paints and also metallic and non metallic paints.
These are good if you want to use a spray coating afterwards. Would not use this before a full blown ceramic, graphene or polysilazane coating. You need to use a polish that has no added protection in it. If I use an AIO it’s 3D One with a 50/50 microfiber pad. I was impressed with Blends cutting ability even though you couldn’t feel the abrasives in it. Which means the pad was more responsible for the cut than the product in my opinion.
Hello Brian Maybe is possible to made a video with the next products against BC 3 vs Wolfgang silica spray vs Koch chemie So.02!? Durability test Thank you
Brian I’ve got a question. The product called Luster Lube by Lithium. If I’m using it with my clay towel how does it not affect my Seal and Squeal which I would apply next? I’m stumped because Luster Lube has SiO2 and wouldn’t that interfere with the sealant: Seal & Squeal?
Personally I'm not a aio fan. If I'm going to spend the time to machine I may as well spend another 1/2 or whatever putting better protection. Then again I'm not paying for it and if my customer is looking for that than so be it . 3d speed or malco aceralate it is .
Yeah im with you. Id correct and lay down a different protection. A good spray ceramic doesn't take that much extra time. Question: i see your cordless d.a. has a whopping big battery on the end of it. Are vertical panels tough on the body with a battery powered d.a.? Im by no means Hercules by any stretch. They just look too heavy for me.
Brian, I have a question: Bumper was repainted over a year ago, recently someone backed into it and the clear coat has chipped a small quarter size. What does that tell me about the paint job, if anything?
@@apexdetail85 it was rammed into and destroyed so I got it fixed and repainted. The original dmg was bad, but showed no flaking of clear coat. Now that it’s been repainted, someone backing into me just from a poor parking job caused the clear to flake/bubble up. Looking to fix it myself if I can. Thank you
Brian- can you answer this question? At 0:43 what are those straight lines that exceed the light? I see that on some cars that are even finished. Why is that?
At 4:48 we didn’t have that. Why would you see those lines on the paint after your final correction? Still the refraction? Buffer trails? Bad finishing skill? Polishing oils?
I just asked the same question, I've tried to put wax over the top and haven't been to thrilled with the results, I feel like it didn't bond properly. Hopefully Brian answers us.
Not likely, assuming you are taking AIO, there might be some one step polishes without fillers that may be able to take the coating, but AIO’s I doubt it since the purpose is to leave protection and that will restrict any bonding of a coating.
I get the feeling that of you try and put a real wax sealant over the top of an AIO that it doesn't bond properly. Is that just my imagination or has anyone else noticed that?
