This popped up in my feed, probably because I'm using the same paint sprayer right now for the first time and saying Wagner Flexio a lot. Loved all your tips, especially the cleaning part. I love how the piece turned out and very cool hardware. I also love that you were dressed like a cheetah at one point ♥
Miss Flips, thank you for that excellent real world tutorial for new owners of the Flexio 3500. I had to smile when I first went to the official Wagner introductory RU-vid, that showed a lady in a spotless elegant blue dress showing off the sprayer. Then I clicked on your YT and saw what I expected to see: painter clothes! Well done. This was helpful. I am curious about overspray protection for your indoor surroundings: tarp on the floor only, no back drop. I will paint in a similar environment, but will hang a little plastic/carboard until I get a feel for the overspray (free standing closet shelves, just built). Carry on. Ray
Haha thank you!! I’m glad you found it helpful! There’s definitely overspray, but I’m planning to redo my garage at some point so I wasn’t too worried. Now I have a Wagner spray tent though
Just found your channel and I love the information. I don't know if this video is still on your radar but I would love to see how you manage thicker paint and your favorite/ least favorite brands.
Thank you!! For thick paint, or rather any paint, you just mix some water in there. You don’t want it to be watery, but you do want it to drip off whatever you’re stirring with evenly in a steady stream. I like Melange paint or good bones paint. They’re both great!
Nice job. One little thing to consider is that there's only one situation where you can have your power cord rubbing what you just painted, and that is when you are spraying the top, In this case the power cord did touch the front and sites of the the dresser body because you had already painted the front and sides and then started painting the top from the front to the back, and your cord touched in several spots at around the 10:15 mark. What I've learned is to spray the top first, starting at the very back of it so you are moving the cord progressively further away from the unit and even if it does touch, you haven't painted there yet so there should be no problem. I learned that after having to sand and repaint several cord rubs.
Wow! You made that look soooooo easy! I tried using mine for the first time last weekend, and I just couldnt nail it. I watched videos, tested on cardboard and still got what seemed like not enough paint coming out and it seemed slowwww. Thank you for sharing the air setting. Can you tell me about the Material Flow setting when painting?
very clear and to the point. Most others seem to talk about the manual and nothing. it was good to see how to start to finish. i would like to see an oil-based finish. however well gone
Great thorough tutorial, thanks! I've got a Flexio 4000 that I bought for our garage makeover last year. It's sitting, lonely, in the case. Just waiting to be put to work again. Must try it on a piece soon!
Yes!! Do it!! It’s so nice! Though of course, it may be a little different if you’re trying to do more detailed things besides just covering mass areas
@@TheMissFlips I think it landed around a 7 or 8 on airflow and open as wide as possible (the little red ring). Don't quote me on that though, it was a tough job that I purged immediately lol. Between the flat paint to the very dry PHX climate to the heat of the tool, we had to clean it out at least 3 times every time we tried to paint the ceiling. Total saga. Walls went perfect though!
The exit spray would be cone shaped. But the outer most plastic adjustment piece has 2 air vents. The air coming out is angled in such a way that forces the cone shaped spray output into the fan shape. It's output is perpendicular but once you think about it it makes sense. Spining it does nothing but change the orientation of the fan spray patter.
That's the gun I used to use. Until I found the Critter siphon gun. It's a game-changer. An ingenious spray gun. No paint passes through the gun--ever. You just blow air over a straw inserted in a mason jar and it sucks the paint out and atomizes it into the finest spray. It's incredible for small projects. And you can store the paint right in the mason jar--for additional coats. Mason jars are about 30 cents each at the Goodwill. And the clean-up? It's less clean-up than a brush. Takes about 2 minutes. Ever since I got it, I haven't taken my Wagner off the shelf.
@@TheMissFlips Yea, for sure. Watch a couple of RU-vid videos on it. See the people's reactions. It's so amazing. It really is a game-changer. I now love to spray. Before it was always iffy whether to brush, roll or spray. Not anymore. Not even close. If I have a touch-up spot--say I can see a little bit of primer in a groove even after a couple of coats. I'll pull out the siphon spray gun attach it to the mason jar already full of paint, hit the spot in 5 seconds, then go wash the straw in 20 seconds and be done. I'd never do that with my Wagner.
I literally have 2 wagnersone with the compressor and long hose and the one you used in this video and a Cricket siphon sprayer that uses canning Jars ..which cost like 50 on Amazon and I've been scared to death to spray..haha ..I Soo appreciate your tutorial ..I'm thinking I Might be brave enough to try this out now..maybe😂❣️👍
@@TheMissFlips I Know right ..I Even Have a Makita Router too....BUT here's My Biggest Problem Marissa.....I S*CK at Editing with my Phone And Angles ....Please Please Help ...I have a 4 Len's Camera on my phone BUT I have No Idea How to.edit etc....😭😭😭🤣😂❣️
I just got the same sprayer. Went to home depot to get stain for my cedar fence and some white paint to paint a kitchen drawer and a door. I asked them if I had to thin down ether paint or stain and they said no. Lol. So I don't know the ratio of thining stain and paint in wagner container? Also do u guys think I should use a clear stain to stain my other house fence which is red wood??
Thinning paint is tricky. It’s different for every paint depending on its viscosity. I’d estimate about an inch or less of water for water based paints. Start with less and add more if you need. You want it to be less yogurty and more heavy cream if that makes sense lol as for the stain, that’s really a personal preference. A clear coat is most likely going to be a sealer of some kind rather than a stain. But I don’t know much about that. Might want to look up videos about painting outdoor fences specifically for better tips
Melange one featured in this video is an all in one paint. Built in primer and topcoat. It's also in the color black. These factors contribute to the paint being viscous and featuring heavy/larger pigment molecules than other colors. The Wagner has a limited atomizing potential vs machines costing $1000 which can produce a significantly smaller atomized paint molecule which can better minimize orange peel and texture than the budget Wagner sprayer. All of these factors combined should be taken into consideration of the final achievable finish with reasonable expectations. For her to take the paint, not dilute it, and have good enough coverage in 2 coats while skipping the primer step, is exactly what melange one was chemically designed to do. There are other paints that have less orange peel finish and more self leveling capabilities. They are probably oil based paints among the other types, which naturally have considerably higher VOCs and a nightmare in the clean up department which no one likes to do thoroughly. Spraying melange one with managed expectations can give you 98% perfect results enough to wow 99% of users and customers except for hardcore professionals and enthusiast with an eye for the flaws that everyone else is blind to, or see and not care. Thank you for putting up this video.
Hi I just bought the Wagner 3500. How do I know if I need to water the paint down? And how much of the paint spray goes away from furniture piece? I don’t have a garage so may use spare room. Wondering how much of floor and walls to cover. Excellent video. Giving me confidence to try it.
Oh good! Im so glad! It may be worth investing in painter blankets or look for some large pieces of cardboard or big tarps. You will want to put something down on the floor as well. If you’re spraying close to a wall, it’ll be about two feet out from the piece on the wall with the thickest paint being closest to the outline of the piece of course. As far as watering it down goes, most paints require a little bit of water but not all. You want it to be almost like heavy whipping cream before it’s whipped. Keep in mind that it’s being led up a thin tube and pushed out of a needle sized hole with high pressured air. So with that in mind, use your own judgement with the paint thickness and just add a little bit at a time. It’s always good to have cardboard to test on first before you ever start painting a piece. If it’s too watery, the paint will drip once it’s sprayed. If it’s too thick, the paint will have a hard time coming out and will kind of spit out in blotches. Make sure you mix in the water well with a stir stick. I hope this helps! And please feel free to ask me more questions if they arise 🥰
Also, if you’re spraying in a small space, make sure to have as much ventilation as possible and wear a respirator!! As many windows and doors open as possible, fans on, etc.
Is this the Flexio 3500 you are using? Just double checking as it looks a little different than my Flexio 3500 that just came in the mail today. Thanks a bunch!!
When using the Wagner Flexio (I have the 3500) is there anyway to not clean in between spraying? For example, a second coat of paint . I have be cleaning between, but was curious.
I’ve wondered the same thing, but I haven’t found anything :/ I just clean all the mechanics and then put plastic wrap over the paint container with a rubber band around it
@@TheMissFlips Sounds about right. I don't have wood in my shop. I think I might bring a bucket of water to put mechanics in and wash, cover cup with paint. See how that works. Maybe it will work. Thank you for responding so fast.
Hello!!! Have you ever spray clear coats? Like polyurethane? Im using a brush but i hate leaving brush lines that i have to be sanding down so it looks nice and even... I'll appreciate your feedback.
Hey! Yes I have sprayed it! But regardless of whether or not I spray, I always sand between coats. But I definitely have and like spraying top coats. But if this isn’t an option, you can always use a sponge brush!
I have a wagner 3000 and the problem I'm having is an orange peel look on my furniture. Do I need to add more water to my paint or is it just a matter of adjusting the sprayer properly any advice would be great THANK YOU
I find that it’s a combination of the two. Finding the right balance of water to paint is crucial but you also do need to adjust the setting to the right pressure that works with the paint consistency. I’d practice on a scrap piece of wood or cardboard to find the right settings
Higher priced spray guns can atomize paint into smaller and smaller sized particles and minimize orange peel further than the Wagner. Thinning paint and messing with the air flow can only take you so far vs a 500-1500 sprayer. Also some paints are NOT compatible with water. Fusion Mineral Paint is one of them. Their all in one paint will have reduction in its stickyness built in primer and built in top coat integrity when diluted with water according to the manufacturer. That's one brand who if you spray you ideally spray straight.... But you need a high quality setup for it for best results.
I've never seen anyone use a paint sprayer without pouring the paint into a strainer that is sitting on top of the paint canister. Do you not strain your paint first?
You know, i totally forget to include that in my voice over. I didn’t have one so I just made sure there weren’t any clumps as I was pouring. Haven’t ran into any problems so far and I’ve done it every time
I came to see your experience with the sprayer, but I couldn't help but notice you cleaned your furniture with water. I checked your channel, and it seems you might be new to this. I would suggest you never, Never, NEVER clean fine furniture with water. No matter how gunked up it is, there are oil based products which will cut the gunk and remove it without adding water damage to the problem. Start cleaning with mineral spirits and see how it goes. That should remove basic waxes and most gunk. Also it seems like you sanded down through the patina of the top. Patina is what happens to wood when life happens to wood. It gets bumped around, dents form, small scratches form - stuff happens. Go ahead and scuff sand the top and leave the patina for the next generation to enjoy. The problem with water is that it raises the grain on wood. Once that happens the wood needs to be sanded to flatten the raised grain back down to the unraised grain. You sort of did that with your sander, and then,...you wiped it down with water again. OMGOMGOMGOMGOMGOMG. Once you did that it needed to be sanded again.
Thank you so much for the tips! I am definitely new to this, but what is wrong with raising the wood grain? I have gotten great results and use this method because it is better for the environment and if I have to sacrifice a little bit of “quality” for that, that’s okay with me. Also, for the patina, what would you suggest I do to get the dents and scratches out? My clients often demand this of me
@@TheMissFlips Over years of use wood will tend to darken and take on a warmth that cannot be achieved with stains or glazes. It also takes on dents and scratches. In the antiques world when there are dents and scratches, the owner knows the furniture has not been altered...at least not since the dents were made. With the presence of dents and scratches, then the owner can admire the patina, assuming it is old enough for patina to have developed. When you sand the project to remove the dents and scratches, you will necessarily go through the patina first to get to the scratches and dents. In fact you'll be down to raw wood. If your buyers don't appreciate the patina, then sand away. However, you may be sanding through a true antique with value to turn it into a kids chest of drawers. As for the wood grain, most people want a buttery smooth paint or varnish finish. You can't get that kind of finish when the grain of the wood is standing up.
@@dchall8 maybe I’m not using enough water then to do that cuz it’s been fine and I’ve had very nice finishes so far. I agree when it comes to the patina though! It adds character in my eyes. But yea, a lot of clients do want those scratches out and hey. I’m not mad if it becomes a kids chest of drawers. One more thing not in a dumpster
One way to minimize raising the grain during your final wipe down is a chemical that evaporates quickly. Like 50% alcohol water. Or diluted mineral spirits. Do a light rub down with brown paper bag (basically acting like a 300-400 grit finishing sand paper) to knock down any raises grain from the alcohol or mineral spirits wipe down.. Then use a tack cloth which is sticky to grab any lingering debris without raising the grain further. In an ideal world that is. 99.99999% of customers wouldn't know the difference between doing these extra steps or not so to each their own. That melange paint is top notch. It's my favorite.
Yea, except for spraying furniture outdoors, these suck....total overkill. You can tell when its sponsored, because they use a brand new one with no paint all over the handle. Get paint everywhere, and after the first few uses require all sorts of special cleaning and troubleshooting just for them to run for 5 minutes. Its a nice idea, but another manifestation of our "Everything fast and instant" culure. Just pick out a day or two, get a friend or family member to help...and buy them pizza. It's worked for centuries.
I don’t understand the point of this comment. It’s not a sponsored video. I made this back when I barely had any followers. It’s easy to say ask a friend if you live close to friends. I was new to the state and had no friends at the time. Plus I do this for a living. Can’t ask a friend every time. This was my first time using a sprayer and I wanted to show people how easy it was. Still recommend it to this day. I use one as often as possible
Totally useless comment pat. That's like saying dovetail detail is useless because when you open and close a drawer you can't even see it from the normal use pov. Wallpaper / drawer liners for inside or sides can get expensive so perhaps it was a budget factor or client request which in this case was the latter it seems. The point of the video was showcase the Wagners setup and use from start to finish on one piece in one manner. Not color design or choice. Keep it friendly in the comments and if you have any tips, share it with us all.
I just got one for Mother’s Day this year! I didn’t know you had this model but I’ve watched lots of your videos. I looked up the model I got and your video came up. Your video was soo informative.
