In this Missouri Pacific Central Division how to video I will be showing my approach to painting and weathering an older brick building. Using stencil, acrylic paint, and acrylic wash I will show you how to create a ghost sign.
Joe, an excellent video showing easy methods to achieve realistic weathered brick on our laser engraved wood walls. Thank you very much for the ITLA shout out, and for sharing your great work! Nick@ITLA
Fantastic "how-to" video, Joseph! I plan on getting an ITLA Allstate kit in HO Scale and modifying it into a milk condensary for my layout, and these techniques will be exactly what I need for it. Thanks! - Paul
Great job! I’m in England, and haven’t modelled for some years, and now catching up with newer modelling techniques. We had very similar industrial brick structures here, very common in cities and towns, having a very ominous and dingy look. May I suggest, for picking out individually coloured bricks, instead of painting with a fine brush, try kids Fibre/felt tipped pens, the colours are a little translucent over the base brick colour, so the tones are a little subdued, but is much quicker than painting, and takes some of the tedium out of the job. Btw, liked and subscribed!
Can you do a vid on painting and weathering an old wooden structure? I'm 3d printing and painting wargaming terrain for a WW2 based game. I have a few Soviet era log buildings and a few plank buildings, and I have been struggling to get that old weathered grey wood look. Thank you for your time and vids, keep it up!
Thanks for watching and appreciate the request. Stay tuned! One technique I use for weathered wood structures is to apply a base coat of light-med flat gray. A shade that matches the gray you see on old exposed wood. Do not use acrylic paint as it is water based and can warp the wood. When dry, paint the structure your color of choice. Once dry, “very lightly”, scrape the paint using a coarse sand paper. How much of the top layer of paint you remove depends on how old and worn you want the structure to look. The more stressed the wood, the more gray that will be visible. Next you want to apply a grungy wash to the structure. Vallejo makes some great acrylic washes for this purpose. On washes, I would start with a light color. You can always go with a darker wash if needed. Be sure to let the wash dry completely to get a true idea of the shade. Finally, you can give the structure a light application of weathering powders to simulate exposure to blown dirt and dust. My general go-to is a Bragdon weathering powder shade called dust bowl brown. However, the shade will depend on the type of soil and terrain for the area you are modeling. As with any new technique, practice on a scrap piece first. Let me know how it goes!
A really great how-to on working with brick. It came out great. I haven't used Robert's Mortar yet. Did it remove any of the paint when wiping it off? It didn't look like it, but I've had that happen with other products and had to seal the paint first.
Glad you enjoyed the video! The product is more or less like watery plaster so there is nothing in the product that will remove paint. Once dry it comes off really easy with a “gentle” wipe using a “damp” cloth or paper towel. If you use acrylic paint, having the wiping cloth too wet or rubbing too hard can remove the paint. Plastic structures would be more prone to this. In any case, it will not affect the application of the product if you want to seal the paint before applying the mortar solution.
Thanks, I'll have to try it sometime. I've used distress crayons for mortar on lasercut bricks a bunch. I like that Nick's kits have wider mortar lines.
