another good way i have found after removing pockets etc is to use tamiya extra thin over the area it smoothes out and fills any small imperfections etc
This. Its one of the most useful tricks I've ever come across. Use it after scraping mould lines and scars and it smooths the surface right out. Works on those nasty PVC minis that have terrible mould lines too.
Brilliant! I have a platoon of lads in the same basic uniform ensemble ready to be painted, so this was perfectly timed. (Unsolicited geardo nitpick - the bayonet/fighting knife sheath - the throat of it is metal, but the lower portion is painted fiberglass/phenolic resin/whatever - that should be the same shade as the helmet and flashlight. But thats minor. Terrific work on the trousers, though!!) As always I appreciate your efforts. Cheers!
Aah, nuts! I thought I had it this time with the bayonet sheath. 😂 The examples I'd found were all either replicas - of limited use in colour matching - or mentioned being a plastic-like material which looked in black and white photos to be more or less identical; I'd assumed at this scale it'd be close enough. I'll get all the minutiae right one of these days! Well spotted, though!
Pretty sure it fits to the same size as the other Warlord sculpts; they're all a little bobble-headed, by style. If it's bigger, I just don't see it, though that doesn't preclude the possibility I'm missing the obvious! 😂
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio I tried to use a french infantry head on a german grenadier and they were comically oversized. Maybe germans have smaller heads 🤣
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio I've recently built a lot of the USA kits and there are some distinct scale differences between old and newer kits. Try and fit a us marine rifle arm piece (both arms and weapon in one, so a set gap between the shoulders to glue to the body) onto the older Rangers body and you'll have a big gap problem. It looks to me like it's probably more about older kits being more scale than newer kits, which is surprising. That said, I always want good looking kits with consistency more than the scale accuracy.
I did notice when trying to fit one of the Airborne arm sets to the newer US infantry plastics that they seem a bit anemic by comparison, but I thought that was the kit itself rather than scale creep in the designs. Go figure! I'll have to be a little more conscious of it in the future.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio I've a suspicion that they've taken on an ex GW sculptor to do the newer stuff and we're getting scale creep whether we want it or not!
Awesome tutorial. I appreciate the detailed discussion of the uniforms, and this looks great. Hope this will be the start of a US infantry force for you!
Great video , Thank you for sharing. Just in time, I'm building dragon's 35th US Rangers and needed some uniforms painting ideas , and your video solved it. Hope you have a great week. Cheers, Tony
Really excellent work! The colors are simple and the results look great. I am impressed with how detailed the miniatures and the pose is very realistic. Thanks for sharing this.
Off topic here but I'm not on X/Twitter. so to answer your question re bigger 6-13.5mm games for Naps/Horse & Musket era, I would recommend the LaSalle rules or for a quicker game - Valour & Fortitude (which is also free).
Still not sure what force I'll be building for the new edition (as I am wholly new to Bolt Action) and these guides are making it harder and harder to choose... So many cool options.
US or British infantry are always a good choice if you're getting started, since they're on the simpler side when it comes to uniforms; no camo patterns to worry about to begin with!
Nice paint job. I wish you put a blue diamond on his shoulder and a orange diamond on the back of the helmet. I think putting a scroll on his shoulder would be to hard. Great job though.
One more question, sorry... For the highlights, I find it easier to drybrush the base colour again on the raised, larger areas and then give a second drybrush with the base color plus ivory on the small raised edges. What do you think about that? Is it an acceptable technique? Thanks a lot for your support and tutorials. 🙏
Yup! It'll be fine. There was always some variation in stocks, and the look of webbing would change a lot depending on whether it was wet, dirty, sunbleached... anything vaguely beige will work fine for OD #9 webbing.
Short answer: They wouldn't all that much. Slightly longer answer: With the exception of some of the gear and weaponry available to them, Rangers and regular infantry were in much the same uniforms. Barring patches and unit markings, they'd look pretty much identical. If you want a deeper dive on some of the uniforms, check out the guide linked in the description!
The answer might look a bit like this! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BOTnNmGZY7Y.html While the trousers in the video are green, any middling brown will also work just fine. Uniforms weren't so precise in the field that it matters all that much once you're using speedpaints and contrast and all that.
![Painting New Bolt Action US Rangers - And a Little Knife Work! [How I Paint Things]](/img/logo.svg){kind=logo}
