Just came across this video, amazing paint work indeed, may I ask what do you thin your paints down with to achieve a smooth colour transition between highlights and shadows?
Hi I love your 1/10th scale mg gunner, just bought one. This s may seem a dumb question but what brand of brushes do you use and what size. Your bristles seem a lot longer than the ones I have and you seem to get very fine detail on the SS smock with them that I am having difficult to achieve.
I've watched this along with part 2 numerous times, and with each time, there is always something new to learn. Your tutorial has taught me so much with regards to the mixing of colors , shadows and highlights , and creativity. Amazing work. I certainly look forward to seeing your next work. Thank you for your inspiration.
Yes I know that now... I didn't know that when I bought it on eBay. Didn't know they sold knock-offs on eBay... didn't really even know that anybody did. Will look out for that in the future.
The company is Splindg. The figure is highly detailed and resembles an Alpine figure in quality. I'm crossing my fingers. I've been a modeler for well over 50 yrs and chose a different medium to work with. Figures. Alpine are my favorite but they don't offer this particular S.S.soldier.
It was a custom mix. I started with Flat Earth but added a good bit of Mahogany brown. Then I dulled down the saturation a bit with a few drops of White and Neutral Grey. I mix by eye until I think it matches the reference photo.
this is the most accurate oak leaf spring camo pattern i've seen depicted here on youtube. You used 4 colors, 1)base brown 2)dark almost black green 3)green 4)bright green. There's also a smoky shadow on the German camo's but it's too hard to replicate and it's barely even visible on the original clothing. One really has to stare at it to see it, that's why four colors is perfect. You also did the oak leaf properly by making it jagged with razor type points. Plane tree is more circular. Everybody always gets them wrong including the books by AK Interactive. I just recently purchased a book from them and their autumn plane tree is wrong. Autumn plane tree's darkest color is chocolate, in the book they use an almost black color. Wrong. i hope you do more tutorials and some 1/35 scale figures.
The bust you paint in the video is a copy and you show it at the beginning of the video. I don't care if you buy copies and where you buy them. That's your business. But what shocks me is that you show it in public. Here is a preview of the original model ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-G-A3qtazgmA.html
@@milandufek8151 I don't know anything about copies or how to know if you're buying a copy. I just saw what I thought was a legitimate model kit for sale by one of the world's most reputable online vendors, liked it and bought it. I had no way of knowing it was a copy... didn't even know that people sold copies? it's not like I bought it from "the black market" or out of the back of some guys van. LOL I'm showing my work at painting... not reviewing the kit or trying to promote copies or where I bought it from. Thank you for pointing this out to me, I will be sure to avoid such a purchase in the future. I do not promote bootleg copies as I agree that's a lame thing to do. I hope that viewers of my video take note and be cautious when buying kits from ebay since apparently there are bootleg copies out there... make sure you're supporting the original sculptors and vendors by buying the original kits! That being said, my video is not a review of the kit I purchased, it's a tutorial on how to assemble and paint the figure, which would be the same if you buy the legitimate, original kit.
Who cares if its a "Copy"? Its a painting tutorial not a kit review. I'm sure with his talent he could infact put that silk dress on that pig. Who cares if its still just a pig? I believe true talent should be able to take a lower quality figure and still be able to bring life to it. No matter what the quality of the figure i as a viewer of this tutorial enjoyed it and learned a great deal. My hats off!
when painting German WWII camo first i paint the smock (jacket) with a base coat, do i highlight and shadow the bare smock first, then apply the camo pattern, or do i apply the camo pattern and then highlight and shadow? I think it makes more sense to highlight and shadow the bare smock without the camo pattern interfering. The camo pattern will give so much contrast i don't think it's necessary to highlight and shadow the camo. I would really like to have your input. Thank you. Thats what you did, you highlighted and shadowed the bare smock starting at the 2:10 time stamp?
That's correct, the shading in the background first does the lions share of the effect. After I add the camo pattern I selectively go back and add some more, mostly highlights on extreme areas and areas of fine detail that can get lost in the chaos of the camo effect.
@@41sniper I know you got your reference pic for this figure with Tamiya colors listed. The way you matched the tamiya colors with the Vallejo is amazing. prefect match
very nice. i don't understand why your mixing the greens? Vallejo model color has probably 20 plus different plus green hues, in addition if you ever have to go back to touch up that previous mix how exactly can you match it? It's easy to match if it's a simple mix for example two drops of brown, one drop of black, that can always be replicated with accuracy. check out this site for authentic replica uniforms and cam0 based on real WWII clothing and camo for painting references. atthefront.com/category-s/558.htm
Because I've been a professional artist painting on canvas for over 50 years and we don't buy every color... it's a waste of money. It's way easier for me to mix them myself and I can tweak the color to my liking. Everybody has their own way... this works best for me and saves a lot of money.
@@41sniper oh wow i didn't know you did canvas. I can tell you're talented by the figure bust you painted, like i said the best representation on youtube and better than the models from books and magazines. I find it difficult to rematch a color from a new batch, if let's say a day later i need to do a touch up or go over a mistake. is there a trick to it or is it just practice and time?
@@MF-kv8cn Yes, I grew up painting acrylic and oils on canvas... been an artist and graphic designer professionally my whole life. I cut my teeth mixing paints as you only get about a dozen colors in a standard set of artists acrylics or oils, so EVERYTHING you do is a mix. Actually I find it enjoyable and one of the core components of my craft. Just as some build and paint figures but others prefer to sculpt their own figures. That's where I'm headed now... I'm now sculpting my own figures since I feel the more of the project I do myself the better.
@@georgemartinez1720 go with AK Interactive 3rd gen. They're the same paints but better. All dry matt, when thinned with water they don't go glossy and they're all consistent where the dark and light colors all flow the same, unlike Vallejo where the darks are thick and the lights are runny like soda. I also found across batches Vallejo has color hue mismatches. the same code of paint will have a different shade of color across different batches. AK is proper. Plus I read but haven't tried, but I know this ti be true, AK doesn't require a v varnish coat when oil/enamel washes are to be used and cleaned up with mineral spirits after. The paint is unaffected by the chemicals.
