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Pair Altec 808-8A from 1973 Test, review and inspection 

HiFiTown
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Even after Jim Lansing’s death in the late 1940s, Altec largely constructed their compression drivers quite faithfully to the postwar 1940s design he left with im the Lansing company’s buyout.
By the late 1940’s -- while the new JBL company hyped new designs like the D175 -- under great R&D constraints … Altec happily churned away refining and mass producing variants of the 1930’s 801’s terrific design with a few manufacturing refinements and material changes (to both the body and diaphragm).
Interestingly though, it was not until the the late 1960s --there were never any radical ideas -- until the introduction of these briefly made Symbiotik diaphragms... We see and hear any hugely radical changes in tone, and performance and various points. These strange looking variants were born at a time, where Altec wanted to grossly hype bigger wattage handling -- but rather, what they gleaned was a few notable behavioural tweaks ... they sound eerily smoother, with less raspy top end performance. Something quickly noticed, back in the 1970s amps when amps sounded harsh… Working musicians and studio recording pro’s really treasured these for that and overall efficiency, clarity and durability.
Over the years they have been often overlooked; and when coupled in large systems, they perform faithfully, blending alongside all of the other 12” an 15” woofers Altec made -- and the 808-8A shares a similar response to the well respected 802 series (the 808 does not reach quite as high, but you won’t notice).
If you plan to use a smallish 500 or 800 cycle horn (or something even smaller) and you have a small or medium sized room - don’t overlook the 808 and it’s “symbiotik”, part phenolic diaphragm. Despite the added detail you get with all aluminum found in other 8xx drivers (and JBL 175’s) -- you also risk the influx of harshness -- or too much efficiency in the upper high range -- a problem for all -- but especially fatiguing in close quarters.
Video and description © HiFiTown.com 2016

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9 сен 2024

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Комментарии : 27   
@tombrennan6312
@tombrennan6312 2 года назад
Radian Audio makes an aluminum Altec replacement diaphragm with a mylar suspension like that of the Symbiotik. Radian diaphragms are made in California and many hornies prefer them. They also make aluminum replacement diaphragms for JBL drivers. They do BE diaphragms too. And they make excellent drivers too, right here in the USA.
@HiFiTown
@HiFiTown 2 года назад
Hi Tom, thanks for this info. I really agree, if anyone is unable to repair -- and must have a Symbiotik's hybrid method... Radian deserves much mention. It might be worth double-checking on the origin of mfr for their Altec 1" product. I was always under the impression those were made via Radian's connections in South America -- but I may be confusing that with GPA. I have not had any customers tell me they prefer Radian's to old, original Altec -- but I will certainly keep an open mind. The issue with modern stuff is it's made to be rugged. The original Altec 802, aluminum / aluminum wire/ paper former units (1940s,50s,60s) were made to take less than 1/3 (or less) the wattage expected of most modern diaphragms. This leads to heavy heat resistant Kapton formers, and thicker wire... that slows stuff down needlessly for audiophiles with 3 watt 300B amps.
@philallen4592
@philallen4592 4 месяца назад
,c​@@HiFiTown
@jd70HJ19
@jd70HJ19 6 месяцев назад
I have two pair of the 808 A for my speaker system. All 4 have the diaphragm loading caps .I do not recall Altec making them optional as they are an integral part of the compression system so that the diaphragms can compress the air column and endure higher wattage input levels . The symbiotiks handle more power but sacrificed upper range , mine use Pascalite aluminum alloy. Without the caps in place the driver will exhibit an improvement in response at the higher frequency range of their response ...the penalty is power handling ...that they protect the diaphragm form the wires is purely accidental but a nice bonus . Incidentally the wires can be changed and secured to the dust cover ...so as to make damaging the diaphragm less likely .One of my pairs is set up exactly for that purpose....extended highs in a two way system ...but the play loud enough, at low wattage input anything above 5 watts most people`s ears will bleed from their output at 20 feet away .
@chrisf7249
@chrisf7249 10 месяцев назад
I got a set of these, and have just hooked up some tweeters with them. They sound good in a two way, but noticeably better in a three way. The tweeters are cut at 7000, and man did the808s smoothed right out. As good or better than fortes.
@vintageaudio7518
@vintageaudio7518 5 лет назад
Nice Demonstration of the sound quality. They are great for vocal without inflating the super high frequencies. They’re as good as any alnico Altec drivers, just different quality. Don’t pass the up if you have a chance.
@robertgunter7230
@robertgunter7230 7 лет назад
i had the 802 s and 808s on 511b horns ......the 802 were more hi fi sounding but i loved them all ......they were on top of V.O.T. cabs with 416 b 15 drivers in those days there were no dsp's ,,,,only had the altec 500 x.over.s.....they sounded bloody marvellous ... i was using them for vocals but they sounded great for recorded music too,,, used them in the 70's. ...
@Umoronz
@Umoronz 2 года назад
Thanks
@chicagoboynowonline
@chicagoboynowonline 2 года назад
Hello. Someone is selling me a pair of these. They seem to have the original diaphragm but one dome underneath the diaphragm is different, seems plastic and not metal. Will this change the sound quality? thank you!
@HiFiTown
@HiFiTown 2 года назад
The dome underneath is a critical component called the "phasing plug". On a quality compression driver it's usually a complicated piece. In the early 1970s, Altec spent allot of R&D effort to redesign this part, which had been essentially unchanged since the 1930s when Jim Lansing's team designed it. The new phasing device was named the "Tangerine" as it was made out of high quality orange colored plastic. The performance was quite good. And it was an independent development alongside the symbiotik diaphragm. Pluses and minuses versus traditional Brass Construction are debated sometimes, but in general it's considered one of only a handful of improvements in compression driver design since the 1920s and 30s. unfortunately if you have one tangerine and the other traditional brass, you have a mismatch - - and yes they do sound different. it's not a big deal, because in a stereo system you'll be hard-pressed to notice unless you listen very carefully. Both types of phasing devices are really nice sounding in Altec drivers -- and it boils down to personal preference. Because the "symbiotik" hybrid diaphragm was almost always combined with the tangerine phase plug in later years, the tangerine plug got a bad reputation for limiting HF, that it should not have received.... Combining an all aluminum diaphragm with the tangerine phasing plug is a good idea and certainly worth your time. I personally prefer the use of older aluminum diaphragms with aluminum windings (1950s) and traditional brass phasing plugs. But it's not a huge deal and you can get good sound out of original Altec drivers of either era....
@buddylineman
@buddylineman 4 года назад
Hello, Do you know how disassemble the magnetic base? It looks like there is some trash in the one i'm working on and i don't want to break it trying to get it apart. THANKS
@HiFiTown
@HiFiTown 4 года назад
Hello, it is not possible to break the "magnetic" circuit on an Alnico driver. If you do, you will need to demagnetize it to reassemble (which is a giant specialized machine). Yes, there is a way to remove magnetic dirt and trash from the gap - an old trick. In the old days technicians used a strip of folded over masking tape, nowadays, we use a more effective "sticky side of a 3M post-it".
@buddylineman
@buddylineman 4 года назад
@@HiFiTown Thank you for responding. It looks like there is some paint drops on the screen and I have sprayed some cleaner trying to remove it , but no luck. I know you can turn the plate that the driver bolts to but it does not "unscrew". I don't know if there is a clip or a snap ring or does the magnet hold it in there. anyway I wanted to replace the screen. Any ideas? Thanks Buddy
@thanhphamAltec
@thanhphamAltec 4 года назад
808-8 😍😍😍
@samplant7936
@samplant7936 3 года назад
Hello, how do you determine the polarity of the diaphragm once you have taken the crimp connectors off?
@HiFiTown
@HiFiTown 3 года назад
Good question and not easy to do! It is (I have done this before) possible to use a worn down 1.5 volt (AA, C etc) battery. This amount of voltage won't harm your coil. You clip the battery to the terminals. DC polarity will push it up or down depending on the direction of connection -- it's tricky to see it move, but practice will pay off... (I can look, as I am not near my Altec library presently) Altec service specs should specify T1/T2 and convention. They may not, and since Audio sine signal is AC, it does not matter. What does matter is that you have them both wired in the same way / direction for your stereo setup, otherwise it will, of course, be out of phase. Altec miswired the 604 for an entire decade, a little known historical goof on their part! So use common sense and always keep them the same driver to driver, and then mark to remember, my advice!
@samplant7936
@samplant7936 3 года назад
@@HiFiTown Okay great! thank you for your detailed response. So just to clarify: wiring in the drivers individually needs no attention to polarity, but both drivers need to be wired in with the the same polarity? Also, do the 'L1' markings, revealed when you removed the protective cap, have anything to do with the polarity? Thanks again
@HiFiTown
@HiFiTown 3 года назад
@@samplant7936 Hi Sam, yes, wire the drivers the same, and as long as the rest of the system is in phase, then it makes no difference. Yes, L1 and L2 were generic markings designated by Altec for wiring and polarity, but things changed over the years. The color code means more, it was usually green/black. It should be noted in the service bulletin for whichever driver you are working on (check google) ....
@severdan9245
@severdan9245 4 года назад
Hello My driver Fostex FD40 Diaphagm Faill Please help ...???
@moodyga40
@moodyga40 4 года назад
Good drivers I have a pair on top of my Altec model 18
@danielbdbe
@danielbdbe 7 лет назад
hello , what do you think about the 806-8A drivers ? are they also suitable for HiFi sounding when coupled with 511B horns ? daniel from france
@HiFiTown
@HiFiTown 7 лет назад
Hi Daniel, Sure! You can use these with great success in HiFi. They are very efficient just like all aluminum designs -- with a slight bit of smoothness in the upper mids that all metal types don't have, with less breakup (at times). At the same time -- they are not as bright, so some prefer to add a super tweeter to cover that area. They are really good, just not quite as sensitive in the upper HF area. Midrange is very good : )
@HiFiTown
@HiFiTown 3 года назад
Correction to this reply ... the 806-8 should be an all aluminum diaphragm. The 806 series has a smaller alnico magnet, which is just fine in practice and the slightly lower output is often perfect for Normal system set ups, therby requiring less attenuation..... So if you can get an older 1960s green Hammertone finish unit you should be in hi-fi heaven!
@brianbeers3123
@brianbeers3123 4 года назад
Nice video. I have an 808 with the same broken connector. Im handy with a soldering iron, but nervous to try this fix. Can you detail how you go about fixing those broken connectors? Thanks!
@HiFiTown
@HiFiTown 4 года назад
Brian Beers Hi Brian, you are correct -- it's tricky! You must remove the diaphragm, use flux and a piece of flat copper, same thickness. Perhaps another video on this in the future!
@moodyga40
@moodyga40 4 года назад
I repair the lead in wire for customer
@geoffmosher
@geoffmosher 3 года назад
HOW?!?!? I have my matched 604Es apart as we speak and BOTH failed due to this 90 degree bend crap... I’m fairly decent with a soldering pen. What do I do?!?
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