Some of you are asking about systems that have MUCH more power, even more than 3,000 total. The larger the total power the more you can shift the power to the subwoofer amps and still have a good balance. So for those of you that are running 20K plus on your subwoofers it's totally acceptable to have a much higher percentage on the subs in relation to the speakers, but let's be honest... at that point its no longer about sound quality and much more about competing and setting a score with the subs. This video is more for the overwhelming majority of people who are likely running from 500 up to 3,000 which I would consider more of an everyday system, and again the VAST majority of systems that exist. Additionally yes, there are other factors to take into account, speaker efficiency, how close the speakers are to listening position, size of the vehicle, temperature of the air... on and on. This is why there is a range of ratios, to account for the variables. Can you skew everything in your favor and use the worlds most efficient speakers and the worlds least efficient subwoofer and obtain balance. Sure... but odds are that using a power range within the described range will still perform better than outside the range. Its a guideline for a starting point that works incredibly well.
CarAudioFabrication, thank you so much for this video, i never knew there was a formula for level matching your amps, i usually play by ear. However i do have a question, I am currently running a pair of Focal 165fx active off of my Pioneer 80PRS, for my front stage through a single bi-ampable kicker kx400.4. I have my tweeters running off the amp 1 channel and my mids off the amp 2 channel. Then I have a seperate 500watt amp for my sub. Would their be an appropriate formula for the tweets to mid, or is it just leveling with the built in DSP and RTA at that point?
CarAudioFabrication Any chance you could do a video on components inside an amp? (Like the sub cut out video). Interested in what makes a more expensive sub amp sound better than a cheaper one that puts out the exact same rated power? If they cover the same frequency range, is there a magic number in the specs to look for? I always hear "more expensive components", and I understand how that could affect reliability, but how does it apply to sound quality? Awesome channel by the way. You really help explain a lot!
My rule of thumb: Does the bass make my wife complain? Yes = Enough power No = Need more power. Are the highs louder than her complaining? Yes = Enough power No = Need more power.
@@oniinu Thanks. I think I'm pretty cool, too. It's good to see other people recognize it. I wouldn't agree that unhealthy relationships are cool, though. You may want to seek help if you feel they are. Caveman? LoL That's funny. I am old but I can't say I'm prehistoric. I'm more vintage, like a fine wine. But thanks for the awesome compliment. Stay safe and healthy. 😎
Application of mathematics is always the best means of teaching mathematics. We start with counting money and then soon lose physical problems to justify our learning. It's not until I studied physics that it came back to that model.
According to AudioControl that LC-4.800 doesn't produce 800 wrms (200x4) unless each channel is run at 2ohms. 99% of the people using it would only be running it at 4ohm loads, which would only make it 500 wrms (125x4). So, that means at 40/60 it would be 500wrms/750wrms and at 25/75 it would be 500wrms/1500wrms. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for simplifying an infinite possibility of variables without focussing on window smashing nonsense. Seems like many people are moving away from good balanced sound.good job working the videos and message.thanx a bunch
I've NEVER had amplified door speakers. Always only off the aftermarket head. I simply kept the bass setting at 1, set the low pass to 100hz, and set the high pass to 100hz, set the subwoofer setting at 1-3, and medium settings for treble and mid, and upgraded the door speakers to tri-axials. Always has worked out great. I'm not blasting anybody out, but at least my stuff stays pretty clean save for like the last 3-5 on the volume knob.
I am slowly working through doing a car up, and the audio "attempt" from that came with this car is an embarrassment at best. Front channels hooked to rear door speakers, rear channels to stock 8" paper-wubs in the parcel try, tweeters hooked somehow in the mix on the dashboard, the overall quality value on a scale of 1 - 10 is about negative 35!!!! Even the headunit is just sitting in the din-space, not attatched, not secure, just sitting in there!!! I gave up on anything stock, so slowly piecing together parts here and there. This is a rare piece of information that I have been seeking and hunting, and is gold, thank you! If you google for stuff like Amplifier power ratios, you generally get flooded with "amplifier to speaker" or "amplifier to subwoofer" but you dont get much on speaker power to subwoofer power ratios, so this was informative and great to actually get some figures, and base-working as well. Thanks again!
What is missing here is that the watts indicated by manufacturers can easily lead to compare apples with carots. The IMPORTANT thing is to check for which THD (distortion) these watts are given. Very often, it's for an high distortion, and thus X watts with 0.5% THD or X watts with 5% THD does imply that these 2 amplifiers does not produce the same power with the same sound quality at all!!! So the computations made from these watts are then a very rough estimation and don't mean a lot. It's only pertinent if same kind of amplifiers from same brand are used (for subs and main speakers) and in any case check the specs!
I don't usually hit the like button, but the way he asked was just so slick that I gotta give it to em, congrats Mark, you're part of the .01% of videos I "like"
I was waiting for a long time for a video like this. I mean okay, I calculated the decibel output of the speakers, and the sub, and yeah I do know that subs (obviously) are hungrier for watts, but designing a system it's not just about numbers, I want it to sound gooooood! "So you go super bass heavy in your first system, whoa no biggie, everybody does that." Well how about a video that teaches rookies, and beginners, and even first timers a principle, that they can rely on and refine it to their liking, and do not make that "first mistake". Mark, you did a great job with this vid, and served the purpuse of your videos really good, and I salute you for this. I think back, yeah I was an amateur, I learned a lot, and I calculated everything, still didn't know how strong mids'nhighs do I need for my first sub. I even did some research, and couldn't find anything useful, so I did what I thought was right, and learned a lot from my mistakes since. I know that a lot of rookies watching your vids will learn, and skip this first mistake, and in their honor, I thank you. Those who tell you that this vid, is stupid and does not contain any meaning, are either so dumb, that they do not comprehend the word "ratio", or professionals, who have forgotten a long time ago where they did come from.
Mark, as always I enjoyed your explanation, but just to clarify for my own purposes (dual subs in an SQ configuration) : 1 x 800W amp for front and rear speakers (4 channel amp - component front, coaxial rear) 1 x 400W mono amp for subwoofer #1 1 x 400W mono amp for subwoofer #2 I realize that's simplifying things, but if we're talking RMS rather than peak power surely 400W into each 10-inch JL sub is plenty ? I readily admit that I don't spend too much time thinking about such things with home audio, but this makes total sense given the seating positions and the cabin effect in a car. I accept that you make a living configuring and installing people's systems but I'd really appreciate your input. Thanks for the video (and I did remember to like it).
hi mark.i am in sri lankan guy.. so any way, i shuold thanks first of all. coz the best and good explanation so can undestand other person all over the world.i had seen more videos what y have done so good.thaks y verry much.waiting for next video....
First time making any changes to factory installed components (Newbie). Considering this video does a recommended Alpine PDX-V9 (5 channel AMP 4x100+500), server my primary purpose of achieving good sound quality (Jazz, Blues, R&B, Vocals, string instruments, piano, and horns are preferred listening), and not having too much overring bass? Speakers are (4)100RMS (Alpine R-Series) and JL Audio Stealth Sub(500RMS, 10 inch). Vehicle is 2004 Toyo Sequoia if that matters. Also, I did upgrade head unit to aftermarket Kenwood Excelon unit. Thanks for all the great videos and comments by others.
I'm pretty much keeping it simple for myself, I went with a RF PUNCH 1000.5 ch. I'm using RF speakers for door, rear deck and old-school Power Acoustik tweeters in the pillars. For the sub ch, I got a great deal on two 8" CT SOUNDS HYDROS. Once I'm ready to make them vids of my build, I'll let you know. Thanks Mark for another great vid,✌️ out from CALIFORNIA
Marku. Jestem z Polski. I oglądam Twoje filmiki. Z dzisiejszego filmu , mimo że zrozumiałem połowę, a resztę się domyśliłem. To dowiedziałem się dużo. Dzięki. I dawaj więcej takich i z budowy różnych systemów car audio.😁
When I am looking for an amp to match with speakers I generally go by a process of using an amp with twice the output than the speaker. So I would find an amp that was capable of providing 200 watts a channel if I were installing 100 W (RMS) speakers. Then I adjust the gain accordingly, somewhere just under 50% so I am sending 80-90 watts of power to the speakers. Foremost this is to reduce the stress and heat in/on the amplifier since it is working under 50% capacity. This means reduction of heat within the amplifier, keeping components cooler. As heat is the number one enemy of amplifiers. This will help the amplifier work properly and for many years longer than using an amp that is running at 70%, 80%, and 90% it's capacity. If your amps are in the cabin of your vehicle this will also help reduce the heat in the cabin and lower its natural temperature. Less heat also ensures a better sound with less chance of distortion from the amplifier. So far this hasn't let me down. But I also know this method is not always possible.
So do the 25/75 split, and install the bass control knob which allows you to dial the bass level up or down, but never over the set gain setting on the amp (more of a tuning or EQ knob).............................Have the boom when you want it, or the audiophile when your want that too.
For my install I have two MTX terminator subs at 200 Watts-rms and 4 ohms wired in parallel so that the final load is 400 watts-rms at 2 ohms. My amp is 2 ohm stable at 750 watts-rms, so its more than enough to power the subs. I personally run the amp at 400 watts-rms so I get the most out of the subwoofers without blowing them up.
Okay Mark, you are going to have to break down the head unit output values because I see a lot of decks getting blown by this video. It really helps if you talk about things like Dynamic Bass and so forth that can effect the sound quality of a system. I also want to thank you for your videos man, I learned and also remember things I learned as a teen when I was learning to install car audio.
Great video. You didn't mention capacitors! My system is old 2003 Paul Walker red F 150 Lightning. People stole my crap every other year. I went ape sh*t on the last install. So 10 yr record no theft. I can't tell if the Rockford phosgate mid amp is dying, the Kenwood mono bass amp going (doubt it). The sub box was designed to be ported with 10's. I deeply regret not getting 12's. Custom built box. We sealed up the ported box. Anyways I don't live in Houston anymore. I think one sub is blown. Since its sealed I cant figure out which one isnt going. Getting to the midrange amp requires removing the whole seat . getting the box to come out will take 2 guys about 6 hrs to figure out my tricks. Booth subs have to be undone and 20lbs each. Then the box is bolted to the frame. After you get thru that, better have random torque wrench screws other wild screws that the trusty Kenwood mono bass amp is bolted onto. Reverse in time i should have built the box for 12s. I was spoiled w a 15 for my first dinky system in a hatchback. The ported box was calculated by awesome phd physics guy at my school. Anyways it still sounds good. Kenwood deck went out after 17 years of dropping faceplate million times. Multiple break ins. It was still going but my XM adapter couldnt handle last shock. Resoldered it. Battery wire from the harness was wandering loose. Good excuse to buy new things. I am spending good money on engine things to make sure I can escape Milwaukee in it.
I like the concept of the video. Well explained I always advice people to never go cheap for voice amps. I've made that mistake when I started messing with sound systems very long time ago. Through out all this time I've learned that it all depends on your ears but I personally prefer rockford amps for voice. They just have that power and punch very crisp. Plus they don't build there amps cheap. They have the best components inside. That is why I stick to rockford for voice amps
Mark, Wouldn't speaker sensitivity play into this as well? If my sub has a sensitivity of 85db and is 500 watts RMS, and my speakers have a sensitivity of 94db and are 60 watts RMS each, wouldn't the higher sensitivity make them plenty loud and clear enough with less power?
Yes, but baby steps for this rule of thumb. Notice that for your example this would be a split of about 32 / 68 which I consider acceptable. The point is far too many people are focusing only on subwoofer power and not upgrading the rest of their systems to keep up. I'm sure you could nit pick all day and find a rare case of someone using extremely efficient speakers, horribly efficient subs and sound somewhat decent even though the power balance is off, but when planning out a system the rules of thumb in this video are a great starting point rather than just pairing a 2k amp with a stock head unit and thinking it's ok.
I have the same issue as Frank, I have a factory Bose system, Replaced the head unit with after market with the Bose converter box (+$70, not fun) and replaced the tweeters with Kicker 43CST20 92db, and the rears with Kicker 43DSC6504's 90db. In the back I have a Fosgate R1200-1D powering 3 PIONEER TS-SW3002S4 93db.. So my subs are 'louder' than the rest, but placement should matter. The tweeters are about a 1 1/2 foot in front of me and my subs are facing back in the back, roughly 8 or 9 feet away. So I believe distance comes into play. Even when the bass is overwhelming I can hear the vocals and the rest just fine. So replacing the stock speakers and head system is a must..
Greg Reed if you would get rid of the Rockford 1200 and upgrade it would sound better. I've had that same amp, a Kicker dx1000, Jl jx 1000 and now a Rockford 1500bd. The best 1k watt amp is by far the JL jx. It put every other 1k watt amp to shame as far as clarity and response and high volume. The dx was pretty good too.
Hello Mark! Wattage is dependent on speaker impedance. Generally, amplifiers mention wattage @ 2 ohms as a standard. But, in case we use 4 ohm speakers the corresponding amplifier output is comparatively less. How do we match a subwoofer amplifier in such a situation.
Loved this video, never ever thought of the balance between sub power and "everything else" power. Somehow i´ve manage to avoid making big mistakes, i´ve always been that 50/50 kind of person when it comes to the sound. And when everyone else wanted the sub to be high and hard (db), I always wanted sub to go deep and still i manage pretty good dp. Thinking of a new project now and i´m going to use this rule at maybe 40/60.
Hi Mark! I really enjoy your channel and can appreciate the time, detail and love that you put into your setups. Nice video editing skills as well. Keep up the good work. I'm very picky myself when it comes to car audio. But I don't see much in the lines of more affordable amps or speakers on your channel. High end setups are great and all but reviews and setups of some of the more common and mid-tear components ($400 to $600 amps / $150 to $300 speakers) would be great and help me and others as well. But if you only want to do the higher end stuff, that's fine too. If you do have some videos on more affordable options, please post a link or two. I use to have an old school Sony Explode 5 channel amp (40Wx4, 150Wx1), CDT 3-way component speakers, 2 Image Dynamics 10" subs, Clarion Pro Audo CD receiver (got it on clearance), Audio Control active crossover (made my own crossover modules with 1% resistors) and a ton of second skin sound deadener. Everything for less than $1,500 total. I fiber glassed my own custom kick panels and built a Deathbox for the subs (isobaric configuration). Tuned it all for SQ. Came out sounding better than most shops could do with expensive gear. I don't have the car anymore but plan on doing another similar setup in my Outback. It's been 10 years or so since I did the stereo and everything has changed, more or less and is why I was asking about you doing more mid-tear setups. They can sound just as good or better than the high end stuff with some TLC, tuning and careful setup.
Auckland , New Zealand , Love the Vids . Im on a Low Budget But am able to Utilize The relevant information from Specific Videos Like this one witch has made my system Sound Great !!
Audiocontrol have announced new 5ch amps in both the LC and D series. 4x125wrms + 500wrms @ 4 ohm. Probably will be a bit overpriced compared to and considering the already established competition. Alpine V9 for example. Pretty hard to beat for power, quality, reliability, heat output and footprint. The D-5.1200 does have the advantage of a pretty sweet DSP built in though. No extra expense for a seperate DSP plus associated wiring/fuses. I really like rhe idea of the Audison 5.1K as well, but that is mega money, at least in Australia anyway. Plus it's footprint is huge.
Good video Mark, i would have used simpler ratios like 2:3 or 1:4 to make it easier to comprehend for those 5 out of 3 folks that have problems with math. I’m at 1:5 myself, 400w on mids/highs and 2000w on my sub.
Mark Wentz sorry, what l meant is , two 6 1/2 in front (mids and highs ) and two 6 1/2 ( mids and highs ) in the back with 2 12's, 4 channel 100 watt amplifier, 2000 watt mono amp , subs in back , just freaking out on the ratio lol , but if you like your set up , then I will like mine in two months when I finish my build
Robert Echols I have four 6.5” Sundown Audio coaxials in my Ranger (in the factory 5x7 locations) on a Sundown SAX-100.4 and a Stereo Integrity HST-15mkII on a Sundown SCV-2000D
Watch your videos several times on the important topics and I always learn more. Continually learning, but the setup I want is wayyyy expensive for me at least. Two P3's, prime 12001D, and focal components, im looking like 2k all said and done :O
Interesting video. I currently run 1440 to active tweets/mids/front midbass/rear midbass filler, and 1200 to 2X10" subs. Even though I'm a tad lopsided, the limiting factor for me is not low bass, but mid bass. My subs feel like they will tear the car apart long before the amp gives out. My mid-bass woofers, on the other hand, still bottom out from time to time even with a clean 180/channel. But there's only so much you can run off a stock alternator even with super efficient class Ds.
TL,DW: a. If the system is 400W RMS total and under, split power between subs and other speakers 50/50 or 60/40, favoring the sub b. 400W RMS and up, use from 60/40 to 75/25 power ratio, favoring sub
i know its late, but, 01 Highlander, kenwood deck, old school hi fonics mono 200w hercules(1989), in 4 ohm- 360 2 ohm, front and rear speakers crossed over from the deck at 80hrz, earrhquake 10dbxi @2ohm, playing 80 and lower, sounded fantastic.l i know its not a stock radio, but still sounded awesome. not a spl system at all but really sounded great for stock speakers and not a ton of money invested. enough boom for dubstep, just right kick for a7x, 5fdp and all hail the yeti. good tight double bass chest pounder. just my opinion..
I watched your video and understand the ratio but have a question if you don't mind. I have a Rockville RXA-F1 (800W RMS 4x200 @ 2 ohms) amp powering four 6x8 Rockford Fosgate P1683 3-way coaxial speakers (130W RMS ea.). I also have a single Kicker 43DXA2501 250W RMS amp powering a Rockford Fosgate R2D4-10 subwoofer (250W RMS). The sub is plenty loud and drowns out the coaxial speakers for the most part even though it seems my ratio is at the opposite end of the ratio you suggested in your video. I still have a factory stereo for now; replacing later. This was my first installation so I am learning as I go; maybe it is the settings on the amps. Not sure what I can do to solve the issue in the meantime; thanks!
This guy is one of the best if not THE best, car audio reviewer/installation expert/and just all around knows his shit!!....id reccomend any car audio newbie to watch his videos about anything car audio..and he breaks everything down in layman’s terms!...keep up the awesome vids caf!!
I uses EQ's in any system to clear out distortion, amplify the sound. And dial in the sound I wanna hear. Plus a few EQ's I have have front and rear high level inputs along with an optional rear rca input, since I add linear doom tweeters I learned that I can get 6 high level channels, since the tweets don't need alot of power and are facing me, I hook those to the decks front high level lines, then instead of using the front highs as input to the EQ i use the rear high level into the the front high level inputs on the EQ and rear rca's outputs on the deck to the rca inputs on the EQ by using a rca 2x 1 into 2 spliters except with my JBL by Harmon Cardon digital display of 10 band EQ, that one has rca in and out's, allowing bypass non amped sound to the amp. Then I'm left with 4 high level, front and rear outputs, I always replace stock speakers with higher wattage aftermarket speakers so the EQ+deck gives them greet sound, when I crank it up like in my minivan I've got 1 Soundstream comp SPL12D DVC 4ohms per channel bridgable ; 450w rms @ 4ohms, 800w rms @ 2ohms, wired to a 2500w max Earthquake amp 2ohm stable, pushing 750w rms @ 2ohms. And installed in a sealed enclosure that has the exact air space it needs, it slaps hard and kicks hard, cranked up my system hits hard but I can still gear the music, the voices, the highs and the lows. Clear as they should be. I love bass. But i also love music.
Hey Mark, great videos and alot of helpful information, thank you. would you mind making a video explaining the whole "free air" subwoofers and explain how to measure the correct woofer size compares to your trunk and how is it really effective compares to a standard subwoofer in a box construction, thank you in advance
I remember way back that tweeters (in multi amp set ups) would tend to not get anywhere near the mid range/woofer power necessary. Is there something to be said about the high frequency speakers not needing so much amplifier power?
Tweeters are one thing, you don't need hardly any power for the tweeters, but don't forget that mid range and mid bass is also covered in the speaker category. I always find it interesting when people complain they don't have any mid bass, but are running their speakers on deck power and subs on 2k+.... Well duh... You have no mid bass because you can't hear it and there is horrible power balance.
Thank you for the great video. I think instead of 40/60 & 25/75 role you can multiply by 1.5 or 3 for example: 800x1.5=1200 or 800x3=2400. Is that right?
Greetings to the gods of car audio. How you pair an uneven set of speakers to an amplifier? I'm trying to upgrade my 2017 Mazda 3 with Bose audio, it have 9 speakers but only 8 set of wires coming out the factory amplifier. I think the center speaker must be bridged to the left and right dash speaker. Knowing it have 8 channels , do I need a 4 channel amp or more? Thinking of audiocontrol D4 or D6. Thanks
What actually happens when you don't use a crossover for a sub (my brother used one like that for 4 years till it just stopped sounding)?, I know it sounds distorted and stuff, but which is the actual like scientific explanation?
Tero Someone else can almost certainly provide a more in-depth explanation than me but seeing as there’s no others here yet, I’ll post mine. I’m no professional, I’ve just learned a lot through building my own system (correctly.) Subwoofers aren’t supposed to play high notes, tweeters aren’t supposed to play low notes; hopefully we both understand this. Without a crossover, that sub was being told to play all different frequencies of sound, sounds it wasn’t designed for. That can cause it to overheat and get “blown”. I have more that I think is correct, but I know that what I’ve said above is true. Here’s the part I’m less certain about, but believe to be true based on my experience... if a subwoofer tries to play higher notes than usual, it’s using similar amounts of power but it isn’t being spread evenly over the voice coil; the woofer cone isn’t moving enough. That causes the windings on the voice coil to overheat and melt the plastic or rubber it’s wrapped around, which can cause a full-on shitty sound or just a partial problem where you can tell it’s there but it’s not a big problem. If someone believes this is untrue or can add on, please do so constructively.
It will just sound terrible, but it won't actually damage anything. The voicecoil itself acts as a 6dB/oct low-pass filter at a few hundred Hz so it'll sound like a really muddy midwoofer with awesome low-end extension. The bit of power absorbed by the coil from those mid and high frequencies will add a bit of heat, but compared to the power it uses to actually move the cone it really doesn't have that much of an influence on power handling.
If clarity is most important to you, then do what I do - 55% high + mid, 45% sub. Setup: JL Audio HD750/1 + 2x JL 10w3v3 JL HD600/4 + JL C5-650 Bi-amped JL 300/4 + Vifa home theater tweeters + bass shakers in seats. TONS of power and headroom, then don't play it super loud.
Hi there friend. I have a question. I have a 100rmsx4 channel amp on my speakers. If I want to improve my bass output, should I get one or two subwoofers and what kind?? I’m limited on space in my truck. I can install a box in the back under the seats by either trying to build one or buying one, but my seats are low so I think 12s are not an option. Appreciate it if anyone knows what I should do.
Couple questions I was wondering about - a) If I understand the example correctly we're to use the max RMS rating of the amp and not what the speakers are actually seeing? (so the LC-4.800 shows 4x 200w @ 2ohms) - so 200w RMS on each speaker upfront (assuming just a tweeter and a mid) is still ok with 1200w on the subs? b) do we adjust our calculations when using a different speaker resistance? So if we use the LC-4.800 but are running at the 4x 125w RMS @ 4ohms? (or is it still based on the max RMS rating and therefore could have 125w with a 1200w sub amp?)
I've always done it simply in my head with less BIG numbers. Common denominators. 40/60 ratio = 4/6 = 2/3. 800 divided by 2 = 400. So multiply that by the bottom 3, = 1200. 800w highs, 1200w subs. Yes, it is longer written out, but you can do it in your head FAST. 25/75 = 1/3, so 800 x 3 = 2400w. Simple minds can move simple numbers FAST. This has been Simple Minded Math with Halifax Max. Remember kids: It ain't stupid if it works!
Got a vid on balanced differential vs non-balanced inputs, how to tell which you have, and the subsequent need to use the appropriate RCAs (whether single-ended or twisted pair)?
You need to make a video about those who install more mids/highs than subs LuL I have a 2 1200.4 EVOs 4 6.5 B&C, 2 10" B&C, 2 horns and an RE SA 500.1 with a 200wrms RE 12"
Mark, what if you have a alternator isn't strong enough to to support your vehicle system like: radio, amplifier, and etc...? I think I have this problem.
I feel very left out here, I have 2 12s receiving 500w rms each and my speakers are limited in their power capacity but are getting around 80-85w rms each. I've yet to actually meet anyone personally that is feeding 800w+ to their main speakers, mine are rated at 65w officially but I'm giving them clean power so can push it a little bit. This video has a feel of those amps that say they give you 2400w for £50....
Although I may not agree totally. This was a good tutorial for the new guys. If you do not turn up the head unit past the distortion, and the gain is set up correctly, you can have any size amp you want. Jim
I have 2 3-way component speakers (Audison APK 163) for the front and back. I also have a Audison APBX 10 AS2 Prima Subwoofer. What is the best amplifier for this set-up of 12 total speakers and a subwoofer?
Just picked up some dual kicker 12” compR subs for my Hyundai Elantra with a kicker CXA 1200.1 class d amp and pioneer double din...... What component speakers should I run in the front for some nice loud clean crisp rap/hip-hop music and amp along with what speakers for rear???? New to all this.
Nice video but you are missing the big picture, It was never really about the sound quality. Even so the system I bought was pretty much in the zone according to this. Got some Gladen 100w@3ohm and hertz 10inch sub 450w@4ohm. Running with a two amps, DD and boss. They are supposedly rated at 120x2@4ohm and 638@4ohm but I have not tested them myself.
You gotta keep in mind that it takes more power to move a subwoofer, since it's a larger speaker than the midrange/tweeters speakers. So 100w speakers != 100w subwoofer. And one last thing that was very important to talk about is how much power do you really need without going deaf? In my experience, 500w total power is enough to get it so loud your ears would hurt after just a minute. So anything over 500w you're likely going to get hearing damage if you're going to be using that much power regularly.
Ah ha. Found it. OK so even after the big 3, upgraded alternator, I need to get this shuruken battery installed asap. My 1500bd is over powering my r400.4. Sounded great with my 1k watt sub amp and my r400.4.
I NEED HELP!!! so basically, my aftermarket car head unit has 2 sets of RCA outputs. one is labeled “front” and one says “rear/SW”. I currently am running 2 subs an AMP connected to the “rear/SW” RCA. But now, I want to add another amp to power all 4 door speakers, in addition to two powerful bullet tweeters. I’m thinking about 2 Skar Audio VX35-ST’s. This means i’ll need to add a 6 channel amp (2 channels for 2 front speakers, 2 for rear speakers, and 2 for two additional tweeters. my question is how will I wire my new amp to my head unit? my “Rear/SW” outputs are taken up by my Subwoofer amp, and that leaves just the front RCA Outs. I am perfectly fine with loosing the fader and balance features. but do i need some kind of RCA splitter or something to be able to wire up the amp? Or is there an switch on most amps to only require one set of RCA input to be split across 6 channels? My other concern is how will my amp “know” to send the proper frequency signals to my new bullet tweeters? will my bullet tweeters just “know” to not play low frequencies? Or am I overthinking this- Will my speakers/tweeters all play music properly just using the “front” rca outputs? Assuming that I figure out how to get a sound signal from my head unit’s “front” RCA, is it a hazard to wire that to bullet tweeters? my fear is that my tweeters will be blown due to low/midrange frequency signals. I’m not sure if this necessary, but would it help to tap into the wires that go into my OEM stock tweeters (that i’m looking to replace with bullet tweeters) instead of running new speaker wire to the new tweeters? If that is in fact the best way to go about doing this, how will I amplify the signal? Please help!!!!
tweeters and mids should both b wired to 2 crossovers which allow the correct frequency’s to be played on each speaker. the crossovers will be wired to your 4 chanel amp you do not need a 6 chanel amp because the crossover does both the tweeter and mids. that’s how you would wire the front speakers and as far as the head unit and amp wiring that i can not tell you because i would need to see it. hope this helps
Great video. I'm new to custom stereos though, and I still have a lot of questions that weren't answered. I've been watching a lot of your videos, particularly about matching the right sub with the right amp... but the initial "choice" is perplexing me. Hopefully you can help me? I have a 2020 BMW X5 M50i, with the high-end Bowers & Wilkins 1500 watt, 20 speaker system. The "quality" is impeccable, the volume is more than sufficient....but the bass is just a bit "lacking". Not sure I need more "volume" at all.... I just want to be able to hear the ultra-low frequencies "more" than what I do now. I'm not sure how much of that 1500 watts is going to the existing underseat subs, but I'm looking to add just a little more low end, with a single 8" or 10" sub in a custom, side-trunk mounted sub and amp. I want sound quality, not overpowering bass. I can build the enclosure into the side of the trunk (it MUST look and function 100% like factory.... no huge boxes or obtrusive amps).... but choosing the right size/power amp has me incredibly intimidated. Size and discretion matters, so the smaller the size, the better. But too small, and the whole project is worthless. What RMS power level should I be considering? What ohm level should I be considering? Thanks for taking the time to answer this.
Hi Mr.Mark have a question. i have 4 unit 500w 4ohms speakers for my car audio system and I'm not using subwoofer. so how many watt amplifier is perfect for my speakers to make better sound?
So... from someone who's done both car audio and home theater - I'd like to challenge you to share your knowledge a bit more, you talk a lot about ratios, but don't go into WHY. At best these are a rule of thumb. The why has to do with the amount of energy required to push the mass of air at the various frequencies. It's further complicated by the non-linear response of people's ears. Weighting curves are commonly used to correct for apparent loudness as sampled by an acoustic meter - people may be familiar with the term "db-A" or "db-C", which indicates indicates a weighting correction has been applied to the raw value. The basic takeaway, is that our ears are less sensitive at the extremities of the audible range above 10kHz and below 200Hz. Because it requires less energy to generate higher frequencies, the upper roll-off is easier to correct with equalization - but the low end also runs into the limitations of the volume and dimensions of the install and the circumstances of the vehicle construction. Tackling those challenges in reverse; a flimsy undamped floor, roof, and doors will vibrate with the lower frequency energy absorbing some of the power and reflecting some of the power back as the panels rebound (out of phase, eating up apparent SPL and clarity), and acoustic modes caused by the dimensions of the vehicle will also come into play. A floor to ceiling distance of 4.5' (54", 137cm) is resonant at about 250Hz - as you get around (above/below) that frequency there will be interference that either adds or subtracts from the expected audio. Any larger dimensions will cause lower frequencies to have near resonance issues, like the distance from a sedans driver footwell to the rear right passenger's cargo shelf (for a large sedan like a Merc S-550, this could be slightly below 125Hz). As you wander around this frequency range the sound gets muddy and the intelligibility goes down - which many people counter with more volume. When you runs into the resonance issue, the best thing for it is to stop the resonance, either dampen the body panel(s) more and/or work on breaking up those fixed distances with some diffraction/diffusing. Discouragingly, the 90Hz to 250Hz range is what most recording studios consider "musical bass", everything below that is sub-base - it's also the range most affected by the dimensions of the vehicles we install sound systems into. Below the frequencies of resonance modes - you run into a brick wall of the damping volume of the interior itself. If you watch the SPL drag races, these guys are banging on that wall with jackhammers... or wrecking balls. Below the interior volume's damping resonance, you are essentially compressing the air volume, which requires more work/energy than merely coupling the cone to the air and simply transmitting the sound. This can be relieved a bit by opening the windows, but most areas have sound ordinances now that prevent going too nuts, and if you're driving you get wind and traffic noise. Each vehicle has its own physical acoustic limitations, and there is again a point of diminishing returns (a term you like to use a lot I note), where the volume just doesn't have anymore easy power you can add. If you've ever heard of the 80/20 rule this is basically what happens, you spend the 20% to get 80% of the SPL, and your budget would need the other 80% to squeeze out that last 20% of SPL... Then there's hearing loss. I'm sure that if one wanted to get out there and 3D scan an interior, then do a resonance study on the target vehicle - the modes could be correctly diffused/diffracted, panel resonances can be damped, and the low frequency roll off can be calculated... but most of us don't have THX's lab. ;-)
Soo... Just to be clear. And if i understand it correct. If lets say, one have two subwoofers, each have a low "w" of 1500 and high "w" of 3000. And an amp on 3000w. One can then go with the 30/70 scale to be able to use the woofer? (I think the total will land on like 7000, but its around 35/65 and 30/70 if one whants to hit the exackt number)
