It looks like the solder doesn't "wet" the cables. A product like this should come with flux included, but perhaps the vendor cheaped out on this. Can you try the same sleeves but add a bit of soldering flux on the cables before you insert them. P.S. I missed to get these when they were put on sale and I can't find them now in the local Lidl.
@@robertpitt8418 I used a few in the past and had the same observations however... I came to a conclusoin that the "metal ring" that is inside.. its role is only to shrink and clamp the connection - it is not meant to melt. The ring gets beefier with the wire gauge - so the bigger the wire gauge, the bigger the ring and clamping strength. On the other hand, once that ring shrings - it is impossible to tear the connectoin apart - so though it doesnt look solid, it does its job. OK... you could also think about where such ferrules could be applied? Because they are comfortable to use - if not on huge power demanding circuits then.. so I used a lot of them building heating rooms for people where you need to make NTC thermistors wires longer - they can be easily applied for low power joints. Good luck.
@icku I have this same set and I tried a heat gun and got same results so I tried my windless electronic gas jet flame lighter on them and that helped to melt the solder better as it was more direct heat, even a normal gas lighter should work as well as all heat will be on the solder then, hope this works and helps you. Paul
I bought them several times before, adding flux help but on the other hand I am thinking if it is not intentional. Perhaps the center lead/solder ring is onle there to shring and "clamp" the connection. Perhaps it is not meant to melt and wet at all...
First of all thanks for your video. I have used traditional soldering (solder/flux with heat shrink tube) for years and from time to time soldering sleeves (not Parkside). I think that at least on the 2 first attempts the soldering failed because not long enough under the heat gun or gun temp was too low. I would expect that the soldering to be completely melted when copper wires are fully covered by the solder. I think the last wire you soldered was conclusive since it didn't break at soldering joint.
Or its a bad quality. The idea behind this is to be easy and quick. If I lose 5-6 minutes in heating one sleeve, then fuck it. I won't be able to pay my heat gun electricity bill haha.
@@94rainbowx33 No one denies the physical laws. The idea here is to be quick and easy. If i need a flame thrower for 6mm wire...well thank you not. Better to stick to the old fashion soldering iron 😉
These look really crappy... Bad melting and very little or no "wetting" of the copper wires. I'll stick to the traditional way of soldering and heatshrink.
Meeeh if lighter cant solder it its a crap! A friend of mine is electrician and he solders wires with a lighter torch all the time when he needs to make the ends that go into something .Dissapointing,its almost like they used lead free solder and no flux.
omfg you should learn what you are doing first and then make reviews, point that fucking lighter on that solder not fuck around it, JUST MELT IT PROPERLY AND THEN IT WILL WORK
Point it to your brain - then it will work. Do you really think i haven't tried it? The only thing I accomplished is to melt the sleeve and put on fire the cable isolation.
@@icku then maybe you are doing something wrong with your brain cos i use these sleeves all the time, even the Parkside brand and i have not had a single problem with them. they melt like butter
@@PeterJurasek If a 500 degrees heat gun can't melt 138 degrees solder 🤣 You have a YT account, please do a video showing us how to melt it properly and how the solder joint withstands a strength test pulling the cables 😉
