The customer must be livid. On a more positive note, I really appreciate the design quality. I became a design snob in a different line of work, and now I geek out about that stuff when I see it (or when it's pointed out to me).
A couple tips: when you recap the amplifier boards, be sure to replace the feedback caps for the differential input amplifiers with *bipolar* caps (electrolytic bipolar caps are fine). Even on some much more recent Yamaha surround-sound receivers I would have to change all 7 polarized feedback capacitors to bipolar types (per factory service bulletin) because one or more would become electrically leaky and cause DC offset, triggering the protection circuits and shutting down the amp. Also be certain to clean the output relay contacts. We use a pencil eraser, or better yet an ink eraser. If anyone ever asks you to work on a Yamaha amplifier or receiver with ivory colored circuit boards, think twice before you say yes. The traces and solder pads on those boards are extra thin and fragile, the boards are not silk screened with the part numbers, and the service manuals typically did not include actual drawings of the components and layout as they are found on the boards. Those later units used a ton of corrosive glue all over the place.
@@BradsGuitarGarage , looking forward to it! Also be on the lookout for any transistors with oxidized, blackened leads; they become intermittently noisy. By the way, for the benefit of other newbies and wannabe techs, when you see "shrunken caps" (shrink-wrap coating having shrunken from heat) that aren't physically located next to a hot resistor or hot transistor, the overheating was *internal* to the cap, from electrical leakage, or high ripple currents. High quality modern capacitors generally have much lower ESR and internal leakage, and higher resistance to ripple currents, than 40 or 50 year old caps did when new. (Modern caps are supposed to be built to withstand the harsh conditions found in switching power supplies, but still, millions of relatively modern devices die every day from crappy capacitors, and some brands of caps are known to fail prematurely ---- Shoei is one such, and Brad has mentioned SamWah....).
Cleaning the ground barrels of the RCA jacks is most easily done with a Faber or Eberhard powered draftsman's (draughtman's) eraser, basically like a hollow dremel tool with 1/4" diameter, 8" long eraser rod that runs down through the middle of the tool. Buffs the grunge and corrosion right off!
How much would you charge to service a Yamaha CA 1000 amp? Fully functional but scratchy controls, and occasionally, one channel goes quieter than the other. I'm in Noosa, Qld.
Great video's Brad, I just wanted to get alitte info as to what type of screw they've used to lock on phono switch, and size. I want to straighten mine up, appreciate your advice thanks.
Hello Mate. I have the same model and sometimes I either hear a distortion in one of the channel or it goes completely silent. When I switch to mono it goes away. What could be wrong with it? I'm mechanically inclined but I am not an expert in electronics. Could I be able to fix it myself? I can't afford $1000 repair bill. Greetings.
If your amp has never been overhauled, the electrolytic capacitors will be physically leaking. You have one or two symptoms, but the whole amp is a castle built on sand until they're all replaced. Then if the symptoms you describe persist, I'd start by cleaning all the switches, assessing the control voltages going to the relays and their switching transistors, looking for damge due to heat and leaky transistors. If all is well there, with some additional testing I'd confirm whether or not the relays need replacing, then act accordingly.
Yes I do, mate. Here it is: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xIEiDGasW9o.html The only issue it had after the end of part 2 was one leaky transistor in the protection circuitry and a dodgy speaker relay which I replaced. It's behaved since then.
They're all old. So none of them are reliable unless you get them rebuilt. I haven't had that particular one in yet, no. But from what I can glean from Google, internally it looks just about identical to the CA-1010
@@BradsGuitarGarage Thanks for the quick reply mate. Found one for 400 USD and don't know if I should buy and hope it's good and can be restored correctly, the parts finding being my primary concern. Do you think new ones like the A-S501/701 are a decent boy or go for newer ones like 80's to 90's Pioneer/Yamaha/Denon like Yamaha A-1000, Pioneer A-777 or Denon PMA 1060/1500R for example, found a few that look decent for around 300-400 USD. Please let me know if you know some nice models that are serviceable and offer HiFi sound not like today's modern junk.
@@BradsGuitarGarage Yes, it's basically the same unit with different name Japan for the CA-1000 mk3, CA-1010 for the rest of the world. How was it repair wise and quality/sound wise?
Hi Brad, I just came across your video and I am wondering if you could give me a hint to what the problem with my 1010 could be. I was playing music when I could hear a popping sound inside the amp. The music went silent immediately. Just seconds before the popping-sound, the left channel had started to hum. I can still switch the amp on and off, the meter lights are on, the main fuse (at the back) is intact. When turning the volume up to level 5 (12 o'clock, actually very loud and never used by me before) I can hear the music softly playing but in an extremely distorted way. Do you have any idea what the reason for this could be, hence, which part exactly did pop?
The reason would likely be because it's a 50 year old amp and needs a full rebuild. Like the one in this video. You may have a shorted filter cap which would have blown an internal rail fuse. But there's no single thing you can replace to ensure a reliable amp at this age.
The speaker relays fail and some of the transistors get very hot, degrading their solder joints, also. And I can't speak for the quality of the previous work. I can't diagnose it without it on my bench, unfortunately.
If you mean does it matter if it's over-rated with regard to voltage ratings, it doesn't really. The prime concern there is size, availability and pricing.
At 20:50, yes, you should add heatsinks to those voltage regulator transistors, but don't push them up against the caps and then push them back away again unless you are definitely pulling that board up for service (which you really should do anyway) because now you've definitely broken whatever was left of the crystallized solder joints. Not only do I add heatsinks in cases like that, but I usually lean the caps and transistors away from each other. PS, have you ever even owned a high quality tape deck?. I have, but most people haven't. Cassette tape can be excellent, but most people bought a cheapo dubbing deck with plastic mechanisms and played crappy store-bought tapes (,or home-made tapes done on BASF and Memorex) that shed worse than my dogs, and quickly fouled the heads, capstan and pinch rollers, and they didn't know how to or simply didn't bother to clean it properly and so of course it sounded like shit!
There are posers and incompetent techs on every street it seems these days, mate. I feel for anyone who gets sucked in. It's one of the reasons I do these videos; to create awareness of what's involved and what to expect.
