Join me as we continue the '48 project with all new brake shoes, hardware, and hoses. I also rebuild the master cylinder, all four wheel cylinders, make a new brake line and bleed the system.
You humble me with your knowledge of that old girl! I'm preparing to do the the brakes on my 49 3100, and from what I see the brakes are very similar to the Stylemaster, so this will be ANOTHER huge help to me! God Bless you and thanks!
I'm a novice car guys and this is super helpful as I dig into my 40 Master Deluxe. Great camera work, really clear explanations, and just the right balance between real-time and speeding things up. The inclusion of the vintage film is also very useful at understanding how and why it all works the way it does. Thank you so much!
Your tutorials have Helped me with my 1949 Chevrolet sedan 2 door styleline has a 235 v6 after I fixed my brakes today referencing one of your tutorials. previously before my both rear brakes were locking up I Hurd a light knock in the motor I come to find out today as well I have a rod knock.I bought car 2 years ago been trying to make it road worthy but one thing after a other with your rebuild videos on stove-bolt have been very helpful I’m not a professional mechanic in Cali they call us back yard mechanics my profession is a commercial driver. My first car was a 1965 & others followed 1963 1964 Chevrolet Impala 2 doors in the 80s thru 99 for the most part I did all my work on them I have always struggled on drum brakes so I paid and A complete rebuild on motors never happened just removed them if they went bad. was easier for me to remove and replace with running engine & transmissions as well As I got older I picked up several 1949 & 1952 were I have no experience in removing or installing motors and my latest is a 1949 Chevrolet sedan styleline were I’m leaving it as is 6V all original I no it came with a 216 but has a 235 I’m still trying to figure out what year it came out of. Any way my sad story is I will be removing that 235 and taking it in to a machine shop have it rebuilt do I have to remove drive shaft bell housing to remove engine? I no your a busy godly man I have no issues with your godly sermons. Like you said no one is obligated to watch your Mecanic professional skills. Don’t fall into there demonic questions and insults block them and move on you have no time to answer there questions. They have nothing better todo they need god. I can go on and on about the fight to remove our father and indoctrination of our young youth. Disney top of food chain. I keep my self out of social media cause I get heated fast so I never reply to rude comments I block them as soon as I see we’re there headed. I will reference your stove bolt to remove my engine. Keep doing what you do cause you like to share your knowledge to others and our fruits will be awarded in the kingdom of heaven according to everyone’s works.✝️
Hi there, thanks for the comments. You may have heard me talk about it, but my first car was a 64 Impala. One of my dream cars is a '61 Impala bubble top. If you're just wanting to pull the engine and leave the transmission in place you certainly can. Just block up the transmission and pull the bell housing and clutch assembly out with the engine.
@@TheJayhawker I will do that. If I decide to go that route.you think it’s easier to pull transmission with engine? I been praying asking the lord all night if it’s best to sell it or fix it.. dilemma dilemma :: ( 1962 Chevrolet bubble top is a very nice car I almost had one 10 years back but wife said no. Thank you 🙏 for replying god will keep blessing you & family. your tutorial’s our educational & humorous. Always some one out there on social media very dark unhappy 😞 I block them don’t give them your time. Better yet once you see we’re there going stop block. Just me cause there dark want to ruin my day…. You have a life time subscriber.stay up ⬆️✝️
Your block number will tell you the date of your motor’s maufacture but the “codes” differ per motor type. Get your block number and tart googling. there will undoubtedly be a link to some info or a forum. GM has a lot of info too. Good Luck.
I just picked up my first project car, a 1953 Chevy Belair. I have always maintained my vehicles but I've never had an older car. Your videos have been a tremendous help and you've taught me how to maintain the older systems I'm unexperienced with. I appreciate your help!
That's a great car to start with. Thanks for the comment, always nice to hear that I've been helpful. Maybe you could help me with some rock climbing (hard to do in Kansas). I've done just a little bit of rappelling but it was a blast!
@@TheJayhawker Good morning Sir, quick question if you don't mind. What type of brake fluid do you use on the 48? Thank you in advance. Military veteran here just doing my research. God bless.
..if you have a vehicle that doesn't get a lot of use, it's an idea to get your brake wheel cylinders stainless lined, as it doesn't have the same rust problems as raw iron.
Good video. The wheel drums can be adjusted to where they lock the wheel in place and then back off 5 notches of the adjusters. Then road testand readjust. . On the MC you didn't mention the key that holds the two levers together nor the two small holes in the bottom of the reservoir. Need to make sure they are clear.. I can tell you ain't no real mechanic 'cause they don't wear no sissy gloves. Smile. Thanks for posting your videos. They are really helpful.
Thank you very much for this great video. Have a 1946 Chevy 3/4 ton truck and even though I took a lot of pictures on disassembly, I am confused how the arms interlock with the bottom pivot pin. One the arms in each pair seems to have an offset. Kind seem to find any type of info on the internet?
Re the master cylinder assembly: In the hole you pushed grease for the pedal bushings , what happened to the lock key that slips in before the plug to keep the pedals in position?
Hello, Thank you for your video, I see the bleeder screw that came off with no nipple, how do you bleed this type? I have x2 on the rear of my 48 coupe.
Great video Jayhawker! I'm rebuilding the master cylinder on a 1949 Chevy 4400 1.5T farm truck so very helpful guidance here. Quick question on actually bleeding the brakes at each wheel. Do you just back out the bleeder screws a little bit and let brake fluid run out (i.e. no clear hose into a container of brake fluid to look for air bubbles) and then tighten them when you are confident there are no air bubbles (two man bleed procedure implied here)? With a clear hose seems messy and imprecise. Thanks and major thumbs up to you.
If you're working alone, gravity bleeding is a very simple operation. Follow the brake lines and start at the farthest wheel cylinder from the master cylinder. Keep a weather eye on the fluid level but just crack it open until you have a steady stream from each cylinder, one at a time ending with the closest to the master. If you have a vacuum pump with the little canister you can use that too. Or with a friend you can do the old "foot on the brake, open the bleeder, close the bleeder, let pedal back up, repeat" operation.
Hey Jay. I have to do this on my Buick. I removed the cylinders today an dthey look real bad. I will tyr to clean them tomorrow, but I don't think they will clean up.
It's hard to say until you get them completely apart. The last three projects that I have done this on have been completely dried out and seized and I was able to use them. Just make sure there isn't pitting towards the outside where the cups ride.
Where would I go to get brake parts for 1975 gmc 3500 Midas/Vandura motorhome with dually 8.00 x 16.5 6 ply? Shop has had my motorhome 4 months claiming (pandemic also to blame) the lack of available part. We are doing everything from booster, brake lines, drums. I really need advise!
You'd figure as expensive as chevy of the 40s parts are they'd provide a gasket, I just bought a new brake and fuel system from them, it was a little bit expensive
Quick question about rear drum brake. Is that push spring you talk about at 42:24 is that spring supposed to be on both sides? Because only the drive has one and not the passenger side.
@@TheJayhawkermy 48 was also missing the push spring on the passenger side. Can’t find a replacement spring any where. I check on the Chevs from the 40s website and they don’t sell it. Your video are awesome very informative and detailed. Thank you for replying.
I always start with my local bumper to bumper parts store, but use chevsofthe40s.com or fillingstation.com as well. You may also be very surprised what you can find for these old things on rockauto.com as well.
Great details, however, I did not see emergency/parking brake cable replacement. Didn't see it in Part 10 of your videos. We have a 1948 Chevy Pickup Truck, short bed. I'm having issues with getting the parking brake to hold. I've tried exactly what the 1948 to 1953 Chev Truck Shop manual requires. I've had to replace the cables since the left rear brake cable busted. The two cables were from Classic Parts of America. Honestly I've taken apart the rear brake three times with no luck. Help! Think I've viewed all your videos on this 1948 Chevy.
Yes, that was my great regret on the video. This car is missing parking brake pieces and needs all new cables. The owner is getting nervous about how much money it is taking to just get the car running so I'm letting him take care of the parking brakes on his own time when he has it back. Are your new cables an exact match, length wise? There really is no adjustment for the parking brake at the shoes, just make sure the shoes are adjusted out enough for regular service. Other than that it would have to be in the adjustment for the cables.
@@TheJayhawker yep, as far as I can see they are about withinh 0ne to 1 ½ longer but the threaded area for the shackle is sufficiently long to allow for the shackle to be threaded and make up for that difference. Best of lucj to your customer with these aftermarket cables.
Dude, Y should invest in a rubber drum silencer band, so you will not be leaving all them chatter lines in the finish cut in the drum surface, all that drum squealing noise must really be hard on your shop dogs ears?
