I am buying a Craftsman 150 drill press. I'm very sure that this series of videos you put together will very generously help me. TYVM for posting these videos.
Jeff, Great videos! It is great to find your video's with someone like yourself for having the passion and the skill to bring to life into these old machines of American history. I have rebuilt a 150 and a 103. I have used the 150 in my shop for 45 years. The 103 I bought January 2023, and is completely rebuilt. Thanks again, nice Job!
So grateful you've taken the time to document the process of reviving these tools so others may have a road map to do the same to their tools! I'm plodding through, piecemeal fashion, in getting my 103.23131 rehabbed. I posted on your rebuild 150 video about my chuck issue, having peeled off the tiny bit of thread on the end of the #1 jaw when pressing off the sleeve. I used JB Weld to build it back and it worked to keep the jaw from falling down when fully extended. I can feel the slightest tiny "blip" when turning the jaws to their fully extended position, but decided to not file further on the applied JB Weld portion and call it good (I'll notice it only when installing 1/32nd bits and the harden threaded nut should "cut" the applied JB Weld jaw thread to a perfect fit at some point (or I hope lol). I thought I saw on one of your videos a comment about doing a "bending back" for a dent on a pulley. Now I can't find that mention or the actual footage of such repair. When you have a moment, could you point me in the right direction on where to find your footage of bending out a mild dent in a pulley? I feel fortunate to have found the drill press I have and really fortunate that you've created the content on your channel for others to be successful in rehabilitating their garage sale treasures! Thanks!!
Thank you for the comments and the questions. I know I had another video where I show fixing the dent in a pulley more comprehensively than this video, but the process is the same. I use a brass rod and tap the bend until its flush. In this video at 16:26 I show how I fixed this pulley. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-f8oTw1LQMmI.htmlsi=Qu0r5zljrksIh6OM&t=987
You were 100% right on the spindle screws - Both screws were broken and fell out when I removed the spindle. When I screwed a new screw back in the hole was stripped so I just ran a tap through to clean up the threads in the casting then it fastened tight. My question is - why are those screws so small and do you ever install the next size larger screw in a new tapped hole ?
You are not the only one who has asked these questions. I do not know why King Seeley and later Emerson decided to go with such small screws (8-32 ¾” round head). I assume they did not expect the screws to be tested like Craftsman owner’s have tested them. I believe the original idea was to simply lock the spindle pulley assembly inside the head casting so that it could be mounted upside down and used it like a router table. www.garagejournal.com/forum/media/invert-jpg.113290/full I did have one drill press that the hole was so boogered-up on one side that I had to drill and tap one size bigger, and I decided to go metric and do both sides to satisfy my OCD at the time. I have also had to drill and tap one size larger on some Motor Mount bolts as well. Anytime I need to drill and tap a size larger I do it for both sides regardless of if it is needed. I prefer the symmetry rather than needing two different wrenches. It should be noted that once Emerson started producing the Generation 2 drill presses, they changed to a larger 10-32 x ¾” pan head screw and changed from two screws (one on each side) to only one screw. This change continued throughout the later generations on both the standard and commercial models.
15:38 When you loosened the lock collar with the spanner wrench, the quill seemed to have no problem unscrewing from the chuck. But I can’t get mine to unscrew even after loosening the lock collar. Any advice?
There is probably some setting compound on the taper. Many people used it back then. There are few things you can try, soak it in simple green for 24 hours then attempt to remove. Use heat on it then attempt to remove, or place it in the freezer overnight then attempt to remove it. Be careful when doing any of these to not strip the threads on the mounted thrust collar. Replacing it is a real pain and finding anther one would likely mean you would need to buy a used spindle.
@@cmburns2606 I do not think you are in over your head. As long as you take your time, ask questions when you don't know something, and are willing to give it a try, I think you can do almost anything.
I currently have one of these in the barn pending restoration. The couple times I ran it I had a considerable amount of runout. I'm wondering if I follow your steps if I could go ahead and tighten up that slop (I'm hoping its not the spindle). Thanks for the time putting this guide together!!
new bearings will absolutely help, if the spindle is bent there is a method to get it back in line. If the bearings do not do the trick, create a free account of Garage Journal Forum and post a question about the issue in this thread. www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/craftsman-drill-press-information-belts-bearings-chucks-keys-etc-1946-1984.489080/
Mine looks like a 100 series except it doesn’t say King Seely on the headband, just Craftsman. Any idea what year it could be from? Almost everything else looks the same
Create a free account on the Garage Journal Forum, then go to this thread: www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/craftsman-drill-press-information-belts-bearings-chucks-keys-etc-1946-1984.489080/
Jeff - these videos are incredibly helpful - thank you! I have a '53 103. BTW, my spindle collar is loose on the shaft because it is missing the conical set screw (item 35 on the parts list). Any idea of a source for these?
Thank you and yes, the Cone-Point set Screw is a 5/16-18 x 1/2". You can order a pack of 5 stainless set screws from McMaster-Carr for $5.41 plus shipping. It is part number 92785A472. You can also try your Ace hardware but they probably only have regular set screws and not cone-point set screws.
Hello Jeff. I'm in the middle of a "100" refurb and I'm having issues getting the bearings out of the quill/spindle assembly. In the vide the lower bearing came out with the spindle. Mine didn't. The spindle came out on its own. How do I get the bearings out?
Hello, did you get the top bearing out of the quill? if yes, then use a wood dowel to knock the lower bearing out. If both of the bearings are stuck inside the quill but the spindle is out. Get a wood dowel thin enough to slide through one bearing and tilt it slight to drive the other bearing out then knock the other bearing out from the open end. Let me know if this helps.
@@RandallRausch-i3p Cool, good luck on the rebuild. Make sure you get the correct replacement bearings with the 5/8" bore, should be #6202 bearings with a special 5/8" bore.
@@JeffsShop The spanner wrench you recommend is no longer available. I found one by Williams that is 3/4 - 2" and has a 3/16 dia.X 5/16 length pin. will this work?
Would you have the spindle collar spanner wrench name & part number? Thanks. I've got a 103.23131 table top. Started with my grandfather, then my dad and now me.
Jeff, thanks for these explanations. I have one of these King Seeley drill presses (103-24511), and it works well, though I'm sure it could be improved. You can bet that whenever I need to do anything to it your video series will be my first stop. My drill is missing the feed stop adjusting collar (part #34 in the manual). I'm wondering whether I could find a workable substitute for it at the hardware store, or whether anything I'd find there would damage the threads on the feed stop rod. What would you suggest?
Thank you. I do see the feed stop collars pop up on ebay from time to time. unlike the 100 series, I believe the 150 series has an acme thread. I recommend you post a question about it on Garage Journal Forum in this thread. www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/craftsman-drill-press-information-belts-bearings-chucks-keys-etc-1946-1984.489080/ someone there should know the exact thread pitch and you may be able to get get some nuts to use until one comes up on ebay.
@@dr.kraemer well, I found a nut but it’s 24.00. I would only purchase it if you can return it if it does not work. www.globalindustrial.com/p/nut-hex-58-12-acme-66-arbor-saw-3530006
Jeff, Thanks for these videos. I have a Craftsman King Seeley drill press that I got from my father-in-law about 20 years ago after he had used it in his garage auto repair business for about 50 years. It is probably an early 50s model as it has chrome plating on the handles and doesn't have a tilt motor mount. When I removed the spring from the hub, I discovered that it is damaged (twisted). Is there a source for spares that you know of?
I had a batch of the spring produced by a local spring company. I had to order a quantity of 150 and I sold all of them on ebay. I sold the last spring just a few weeks ago. Check ebay and used ones pop up regularly. "Craftsman 100 Drill Press Feed Return Spring"
@@bobelser2112 you can find extension springs in a close size on McMaster but not a torsion spring. I tied out some of the springs from McMaster and they stretched out fairly quick. Get my email address from my "about" page and shoot me an email. I have have an extra one in a box somewhere.
I have a question on how to remove the table from the rotating mount - there seems to be some type of a pin or bolt - maybe a tapered pin on the rotating part so the table stays flat, and I can't remove the table from the mount. Is that a pin ? or a bolt - I don't see any threads on the end of this thing . And on the top part there is nothing sticking out - maybe it's broken off because there is a hole there and the pin is under it.
@@coconutwisdom585 Sorry for the late response. Yes, it is a taper pin, knock it out from the bottom. When re-installing it, just drop it in from the top, there is no need to smack it with a hammer, the side lock is more than enough to hold the table level.
