Thanks for the walk through. I've done a lot of my own work on cars, but, had no experience with this project. Your video made it clear and while the job may have taken a while, I at least understood the steps involved.
Thanks. Great job. I have to fix a power steering leak on my 2011 ranger. It looks quite similar to what u just fixed on the explorer. Your insight I am sure will help.
For anyone having issues with the AC line in the way, there's a bracket that holds the line on the driver's side you can loosen or take off. I had an issue with trying to rotate my rack up and the pinion kept getting stuck against that hose. The bracket is not far from the harmonic balancer on the driver side. I ended up taking the bolt holding the bracket all the way out and was able to move that line just enough to squeeze the pinion past it. Another tip to give you a bit of wiggle room if you absolutely need it is to break that band holding the boots over the inner tie rod and slide the boot back. They are only one use bands and you have a chance of getting debris in there so this is a last ditch effort to be able to squeeze the rack through the frame. You would need to get new bands and the crimp tool to replace them or just use a heavy duty zip tie.
excellent videos mate, i too have a young helper who likes getting involved. am doing my rack this week also, had a look today and it has a nice groan not lol.
Nice video sir. I think that rack and pinion is the same for f150 or at least close. Only difference mine is 2wd. I hope I got a good part cause mine is reman too. Ford even in 2013 don't fix this issues with racks. Don't forget to give a big bonus for your little helper.
@robinsonsauto Yeah I replaced the rack and pinion with a reman A1 cardone unit, as I have always had good luck with their products, and it came with 1 piece bushings but they wouldn't fit properly so I had to use the rubber 2 piece. But all is well that ends well, along with that came new inner tie rods and I also replaced the outers. Add new tires and an alignment job and my cars is tight as a drum now! Thanks alot for ur video, I used it as a guide in my repairs.
This video and explanation is my only guide, but one question my steering wheel is straight wheels straight but it wont lock i have it tied and it wont moved is that ok ? It only locks at about 45 degree angle wheels straight
Wow! This was such a helpful video. You're awesome and I thank you. Do you know if there is a difference between a v6 and a v8 when removing the rack? I have the v8 and fear there may be less clearance 😬
Iam 65yrs old but iam going to try to change the rack and pinion myself to save some money you showed me a lot i didnt see when you was working the steering back and forth did you open a bleeder to let the air out thanks
I have a 1998 V8 It took me 17.5 hours to do the job. I need to go back in and do it again. I believe it was a poorly rebuilt part......The hardest part was to get it in and out of the frame. How did you do it?????? Ended up dismantle both sides. Can you shed some light on how to get it out of the frame?
@drm315 lol thank you. he is one amazing kid. he loves coming to the shop with me, most times i give him a block of wood and a hammer. for the most part that keeps him occupied. but now he's getting older and likes to ask a lot of questions lol... yea power steering fluid and transmission fluid is the worst.
Those who have actually done this job, 2 questions for you. 1) Did you reuse the small check valves. from the old rack and pinion to new unit? 2) high and low pressure lines. Did you add new teflon seals? Wish there was a close up on that. Thanks in advance
hello. I am about to attempt this job on my 95 explorer,i have a concern though I am hoping you can help with.my local garage has changed my rack four times and everytime they did I would get a couple miles down the road and it would blow fluid out were the stearing shaft goes into the rack.any ideas why that keeps happening
Thank you so much it was very informative. I'm having to change my control arm bushings as well so this part should go smoothly since I'll have most of the front end off.
Seriously dude. Why in the world would you do a video like this in poor lighting? If you want to be noticed just stand in front of the camera. This was not in the least bit helpful.
Amazing video! The first time you drive it, you will probably get the "death wobble" from air in the lines. I put a rubber stopper that I drilled a hole in the center into the power steering reservoir neck then hook up my Mityvac to draw a little vacuum while the truck is running to help clear the bubbles out quicker. Also turn wheels from stop to stop.
Once you got the rack and pinion back through the driver's side pocket, how in the hell did you get it to spin pack again? I can not seem to get it back to the correct position.
@ingramhillfan it can be a hard job if things don't go in your favor, i try to keep it honest, with that being said if you have a good mechanical skill set and the correct tools. you will pull through, takes more time than anything, i always recommend getting a alignment after a job like this, thanks for the compliment
This video was uploaded 9 years ago and saved my life today, glad i could replace it my self, it did a lot of time, but still you saved me a lot more, thanks! got my vote and sub!!
I just finished changing out the Rack on my 2000 explorer sport. This was extrmemly helpful and pretty much the only source of info I used. I do recommend a nice breaker bar for the two bolts. Thanks alot for the video and I will be using this more often. Make sure you watch and listen to the entire video before working on the vehicle.
Thank you for your video. I did the rack on my explorer a couple of years ago. I wish your video was available back then. You did a great job. By the way I used flared crows foot to remove pressure line.
Thank you for your time, information and knowledge of replacement. I'll be doing mine in a few days and needed a heads-up on step by step, I think I am fortunate enough of where mine came as 1 full unit, minus the outer tie rod ends. I do have 2 manuals as well, I know nothing beats knowledge and experience. Thank you for sharing.
I realize that this is an older video, but I have been working on my 2003 Explorer Sport XLT 4x4, 4.0 and it is a bear of a job.. Here in the Buffalo area, there is a ton of rusted parts..I've been WD40ing for a week or so to get a jump on all the seized bolts. I had to remove the battery and box, AC Compressor and PS pmp and the lines just to get at the coupler bolt that was really rusted and the head of the bolt rounded off. I lucked out and hammered a smaller size deep well socket on and with an impact finally got it out . 1 problem solved! Next big issues are the mounting bolts that are froze in the rubber mounts and will not turn or come out.. I will have to cut them off on the bottom I suppose to get rack out. I'm think that if I remove the RH outer tie rod that it may be easier to remove rack.. I'll replace outsides with new ones too. I'm going to replace all the lines to pump as they are all rusted beyond removal and also deciding whether to replace PS cooler as that also was leaking. I prob could repair with epoxy or something.. Will see. Mine is a tube and not a sml radiator type.. Tube is a $100 . It has been a real challenge to do on the ground but I do see a light at the end of the tunnel. This video has been a tremendous amount of help..Thank you so much. Great video. Dont forget the check valve swap in pinion.. Great job to both you and your helper.!!!!!!! Thanks
Thanks for this. I have to do this at some point in the near future and will probably have to re-watch. But actually, you say it was difficult, you made it look deceptively easy.
Thank You, very good video and verbal instructions throughout. Keep up the great videos helping other struggling mechanics for perfect solutions on very difficult jobs thanks to ford engineers.....lol. My hats off to you friends, I personally got everything unhooked but couldn't figure out how to get rack out of the frame without removing the entire driver's side a-arms upper and lower, shock, rotor, caliper which would definitely be a lot more work but would probably end with same results as far as getting it out and new in, but after seeing stabilizer bar removal making process a lot easier, thank you again....... 🤟😎🤙🪛🔧⚒️ 1 Mechanic to another THANK YOU!
your correct, i could of replace just the seal however it most likely wouldn't last long, the reason being, the bushing are most likely shot that allowed excess pressure to the seal the complete unit would need to be rebuilt
hi, very good video. Thanks for uploading.. My 2001 Ford Explorer Sport Trac started leaking steering fluid yesterday and in researching found your video. I'm new at doing the mechanics but think i can do it after seeing this.. The only Issue i have now is finding exactly where the leak is coming from. I have fluid everywhere, so not sure if its the rack-n-pinion or one of the hoses . Any Idea on the best way to find the leak?
nice video brother. Gotta do this one my 98 2wd ranger. current rack has almost 300k on it. gonna do both ps lines and outter tie rods as well. thanks for the info and keep posting.
Good video. apparently you did not have to move the air conditioner line out of the way. I absolutely had to remove the bracket and then take a short piece of 2x4 and bend it a little.
I just wanted to give you a big Thank You! You provided enough detail to allow me to knock this out for my son. The ball joint hammer trick was a treat. Much appreciated. Alignment took 15 minutes and they said it was real close.
nice video. I did my Mom's 2004 explorer yesterday and then ended up doing the oil pan gasket, stabilizer bar links, front brake pads and upper ball joints. my question is how do I properly bleed the power steering? did you have something loosened on the pump or reservoir when you were pulling the wheels left and right at the end of video 2?
No, this is just the initial bleed, air travel up to power steering pump & dissipates on top of fluid. Then start vehicle, top off fluid, turn steering wheel right to the stop lightly, then left to the stop lightly, do this as many times as it takes to remove all the air from the system, check fluid in between just to make sure it's still at the full line. If it does not get better, turning the wheel back & forth, your pump may be faulty.
Does it make a difference if you use one piece or two piece bushings? Both are available as replacements for my 88 Mustang GT and I don't know which ones to use.
Contemplating doing this repair. Looks pretty difficult, but your video was very thorough and explanatory, which is most often not the case. Thanks for making this!
got it done on a 5 litre was pretty tuff just had to take off the drivers side tie rod but its a tight fit and the lines came off after a good soak of oils yaaaaaaaaaa!!!!
Good video. Loved the parts with the kid. He was so excited to be under a REAL car! After a job like that you smell like power steering fluid for a couple of days, hate that part.
Good Job. Made it look easy. About to do the rack and pinion in my '03 Ford Expedition (the bigger version of the Explorer). If I can get mine done in 3 hours, I'll be a happy boy! Was good to see what I am in for!
Enjoyed seeing your little helper. I have a couple of those, so I know how much "help" they can be. Attaboy for bringing him along and passing the skills down. That is what brings it full circle.
I changed mine and when I got all dun I leveled my fluids kept starting it up for a couple of seconds turned it off and did this until the fluids stayed level Just touched the steering wheel and the steering wheel started to vibrate and fluid shot out the top of the pinion. I been asking others what I might of dun wrong and everyone agrees I did nothing wrong. Can you think of anything I did wrong?
