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Part 26 - Oil Painting a Decorative Smoothie - Common Loon - Laurie J. McNeil - [HD] 1080p 

Laurie J. McNeil
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Spots on a Common Loon take a long time to paint. Starting with slightly smaller spots on the first pass during their initial layout, allows for adjustment of the size and shape of the spot, on the second and third passes. Three or four passes with thinner paint, produces a much softer look to the edges of the spots, than that of a single heavy stroke of paint. Laurie is going for the softer look in this decorative smoothie decoy project.

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19 янв 2022

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Комментарии : 7   
@yehnin9175
@yehnin9175 2 года назад
amazing work🙏🙏🙏
@LaurieJMcNeil
@LaurieJMcNeil 2 года назад
Thank you!
@jufferson2121
@jufferson2121 Год назад
New to your channel. Amazing talent! I have so many questions, I don’t know where to start…. . Watching from Ontario Canada
@LaurieJMcNeil
@LaurieJMcNeil Год назад
Best way is to begin asking, make a list of your questions maybe... 🙂
@LaurieJMcNeil
@LaurieJMcNeil Год назад
Thank you for following my RU-vid Channel!!
@jufferson2121
@jufferson2121 Год назад
@@LaurieJMcNeil Hi Laurie First couple of questions for you. When I did my last loon ((40 years ago) I think I used gesso as a primer and then used acrylics. I pretty much did it without layering because I didn’t know any better. I guess you used Deft polyurethane first on the bare wood then liquitex black gesso after that to prime/seal it. Is this correct? I’m using basswood on my next loon. Will that make a difference with how I seal it? Also, I am not making a smoothie. I don’t want to get too ambitious but I will be detailing the feathers. Will this affect my decision to either use oils or acrylics? I’ve never used oils before on anything. Why do you layer (coat after coat after coat) the white dots? Does it add depth? Thank You! Jeff
@LaurieJMcNeil
@LaurieJMcNeil Год назад
@@jufferson2121 Hi Jeff, I always work in tupelo. If I am doing a smoothie bird, no detail burned in, I will seal with Deft Polyurethane, then gesso it with black or grey Liquitex gesso. If I am painting a detailed piece with woodburning, I don’t want to fill that detail in with polyurethane and gesso primer. The better choice for me would be sealing with Teekay’s Rapid-dri sealer, made by Curt’s Waterfowl Corner and distributed through many of the suppliers like JamesCo, Sugar Pine, Greg Dorrance. The Teekay’s sealer penetrates into the wood, and seals the surface about ¾ of the way, leaving the detail exactly the way I put it in there. The oils pick up the last ¼ of sealing for a complete seal by the time I am done making my passes. The number of passes makes everything come out softer, because you can never paint the same pass exactly the way you did the last time, no matter how hard you try, it’s a little different. This softens hard lines, on a microscopic level. For example: six passes to achieve coverage, will always look softer than one thick pass. The Common Loon smoothie I painted in oils was a departure from my regular mantra. This, at the request of many who wanted to see how to paint a smoothie oils. I prefer painting smoothies in acrylic and detailed burned pieces in oils. You might watch the Redhead Drake Head series of 46 videos on RU-vid, which explain in detail why I burn like I burn, and how and why I paint in oils on a highly detailed piece. ru-vid.com/group/PLqqqdXxbNcNr4zsrS6KPnTVEayxwnHPdh With that said, I hope this answers your question. Happy Carving and Painting!
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