hi Cozmogeek, do you use an arduino nano to move arms...? If affirmative, how do you plug your receiver ( in Sbus mode, i get a X8r )because i don't know where the yellol ( or orange ) wire must be connected...? Thank's a lot Philippe
Hello,i come back to you, I just made an Inspire 3d clone but I still have the same problem with the arduino. It never finds the PinChangeInt despite its presence in my PC. Do you have the full code that works correctly for the arms? thank you so much Philip
Printer settings is where your problems are, de lamination problems your layers are not bonding enough. Do you have fans blowing on the part while printing? Our prints are very strong and do not come apart like yours are. Also the lipo (4s 5000) which it was designed around fits under the framework tail, the groves in the framework tail are for a Velcro lipo strap to sit around.
I'm not sure if those pieces were printed with the fan on or not. The default for ABS on my ultimaker 2 is 25% fan. I printed replacements at 100% fill yesterday and they seem very strong now. The first broken piece I show there was my fault for getting the CF tube stuck in the piece and not being able to get it back out without breaking it. It did take a decent amount of force to cause that. I tried to break the 100% fill replacements and they are much much stronger. So that battery strap explains what that narrow slot on the frame reinforcement piece is for. Without any instructions or even good pictures of a flying model it's impossible to know that. Thanks for the info. I'm not giving up on this thing.
Hey Man thanks for documenting this! Do you by any chance have a list of the electronics you used? Im specifically interested to know what motors and esc's you used.. Many thanks
Mikhail Wertheim Aymes Part 4 has more of the info about the electronics but I am using the multistar 3508-580 motors www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__41616__3508_580KV_Turnigy_Multistar_14_Pole_Brushless_Multi_Rotor_Motor_With_Extra_Long_Leads.html and the F-30A-HV Fire Red ESCs www.readytoflyquads.com/f-30a-f-30ahv-fire-red-normal-esc-with-rapidesc-fw-for-multirotor
Taulman3d.com sells an awesome new filament called the 910. The filament has a PSI of 8,100 compared to regular PLA (approx. 6600psi) an ABS ( 4900psi).
Yes it's nearly finished, we want to do some more designing on the arm movement but just haven't had the time, we do a lot of designing for other companies and hobbyists so that comes first this project was not funded but done on our own accord so any development and work that's carried out gets done when we have some time free.
There is also a bunch of confusion about the CF arm lengths. It sounds like there was an older version of the parts list that had them listed wrong and people are still confused. The current parts list also has the length of the 8mm landing gear pieces listed wrong. It says 75mm but they're more like 40-50.
The next video shows the electronics. There is a newer and better version called 1.5 that I would recommend. They fixed a lot of the issues this one had. You can find it on rcgroups.com in the 3D printing section.
+iAstro16 the 1.5 replaces the files you'd have to buy otherwise. You'll still need the parts like screws and carbon rods. I wouldn't buy any of that from rchobbysuk.
question, do you still have all the files that you downloaded because i can't seem to locate them? And how much did the parts you printed with in total I'm trying to get an estimate
You need to take the strength bias of the chosen orientation into account. When you have a "T" connection like that, you almost exclusively need to use a double 45 degree bias on the x and y axis when you print so that you have the maximum amount of surface area between layers. This is printing 101... This is also a HUGE reason why 3D printing on the consumer side isn't quite primetime. It's getting close, but it's not there yet. If you really want those parts to be strong, i'd suggest sending them to an outsource printer and get them done in a nylon. Either go to www.redeyeondemand.com and print them in NYLON12, or hop on shapeways and get them printed on one of the nylon SLS printers. ABS will help as well, but without a heated chamber it can be a biotch to get complex parts to fit together properly due to warping/shrinkage.
Patrick Potter The entire thing was already done in ABS. I was having layer adhesion issues though and my infill was bad and didn't notice until I was already done. I actually replaced many of the broken ABS parts with PLA and it's better. It flew successfully without breaking anything if you go watch part 6!
The issue was never the design or the modeling of the parts. It was your printer. The time lapses look like shit. You've got over extruding EVERYWHERE, and MASSIVE warping. Which is likely the reason you are seeing the delamination. Learn to tune your printer properly.
