Best decision Mike! That engine has way too much scoring, it must have been heavily neglected maintenance-wise. Respect DIAMOND auto parts, you are doing the right thing and that is how you gain more customers! 👍
The plot thickens! Sorry to hear that, Mike, but you're making the right call here, no question about it. I've been here before with a '00 Jimmy engine I stripped the electronics off of and installed in a '89 s10 Blazer with a carburetor and HEI ignition. I figured I'd save some time and money, and just throw the engine in without changing anything, since that engine never leaked & ran good (aside from the electronically-induced misfires). Well, the minute I drove it, a giant oil leak formed up front, along with a few others as time went on. Exactly a year later, I was pulling the engine again (since I couldn't get the pan off in the vehicle) and doing all the gaskets and seals, oil pump, and the timing chain set I should have done while it was out the first time! Live and learn, lol. That was a tough one for me! 😬
Hey Smitty, sometimes the hardest thing is throwing in the towel on something you're invested in...but I'll make out much better this way. That is such a hard decision to make, how much do you do when the engine is out of the car? How much is too far? I think a lot of it depends on the expectation of the vehicle...like for this VW I'm not planning on keeping it after it's fixed. Therefore I didn't do much with it. Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
You made the right call. Everywhere you looked on that engine it screamed to close it up & swap it out and the salvage yard understood that and did the right thing and hopefully will pay great dividends for you and them!!
Hey Bob!!!! Hope you're feeling well! Sometimes I just want to save them haha! Glad I didn't have to on this one...talk about what coulda and woulda been a money pit for sure. Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
I have pictures of the exact part that scored the phaser and the outer shell. It was the spring keeper on the end of the hpfp that after it wore through, it broke apart and got stuck in between the phaser and outer shell. I had the same problem this engine had with me neglecting (actually more not knowing it was something I was supposed to do more than negligence) to change the camshaft follower and so now I have a nice big job to do to get it up and running again.
Very very good call, Mike. As I said previously, you dont know where all the shavings are and were they went through. Good job so far! Keep the head up!
Hey Blocki, thanks man! All good, just want to get it back on the road...and then out of my driveway and into someone else's haha! Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
For sure! I was ready to offload this car broken...I wasn't a happy camper at all! Hearing this new engine fire up should fix that. Fingers crossed! Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Great decision to not put that engine back together the way it is. Hopefully the New Used is in better condition and glad they stand behind what they sell. Sometimes you win with used and sometimes you lose. Great job Mike
Hey dude, thanks! So far it looks better. We'll see how it goes. As long as I'm able to sell the car after all of this i'll be happy ;) Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Proof is in the service manual, procedures say to pull the exhaust cam pulley by approx 10mm to get the bridge out. Good series and videos. I have an A3 that I’m chasing a P0087, some of the info in the other videos has been helpful.
When you displayed the removed camshaft with all the scoring on the bearing surfaces and the camshaft phaser likewise, your comment about checking the oil pan was correct. I am sure you would find crankshaft bearing journals and bearing inserts scored which is NOT a good thing. You are cutting your losses and opting for another engine. Thanks for being so forthright and honest. Bad / unfortunate things happen even to the best technicians / mechanics. You will get past this hiccup!
Hey, had I installed new parts I would have regretted it. This engine wasn't long for the road anymore. It happens when dealing with used parts. It's just another bump in the road :) Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
I feel bad for you. You're not going like what you're going to find in the oil pan. I replaced the head on one of these because the oil pump chewed itself into a horrible mess. The cam follower on the pump was incidental. These engines are SUPER sensitive to ANY damage. They self destruct! Super glad the yard is working with you on this! (I initially didn't complete the video...)
Hey, i'm happy they took care of me too! It would have been interesting to look inside...just didn't feel like wasting any more time on that mess. Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
I'm thinking the camshaft phaser literally came apart due to the engine neglect and wore that groove in the cover. The damaged phaser was an oil pressure loss, so the engine was running with low oil pressure, scoring the cams and starving the turbo bearings. Someone then replaced the phaser to get the engine going again (that would explain why the bolt was so tight). That engine sure has some stories to tell, I'm sure. Quite the domino effect.
Hey Jaa999, thanks for watching! Oh man, I would definitely get sick of working on VW and Audi. I don't know how Charles(HumbleMechanic) does it all day long! Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
@@GoTechTraining yeah, Charlie is good at explaining things just wish he would do longer videos, but you have to understand that va is his thing, I guess you have to love VW and Audi to kinda like working on them, at times I hate it.
Funny Jeremy, I actually reached out for him for his thoughts on the condition of the cams. He's been SUPER busy working on adding a supercharger to Jason's car from what I've seen. In the end, the result ended up working out for me. Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
good on them for allowing you exchange or return it! trying to repair that thing would be a fatal mistake of wasted money. as I assumed in previous video, lack of oil/oil changes and it's spanked.
Hey Kirk, thanks! I do my best to treat cars and customers as I would like to be treated. I wouldn't want to buy this car if it was put back together after looking like that internally. Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
@@GoTechTraining Yes Sir I agreed with you, it's A good moral to practice while running A business, the costumer service should be at it's best, thanks again for your professionalism.
Great video. Always learn something! Good call, scrape the motor. Bearings are too far gone and let's hear it for some automotive honesty. Not right throwing it back together with the idea of selling it on. Karma!
@@GoTechTrainingThanks. I'll use your video as my guide. I am thinking about replacing my chain, tensioner. Do we just remove the intake camshaft and put the chain, tensioner back then the cam holder tray and then use the tool to verify all is good? I know that exhaust side bolt will not come off. Would rather do it the way you do it. However, I guess it is possible to take the tray off and put it back in there like you are doing.
Hi Mike I would of done exactly the same looking at the journal s you definitely would of had problems rattles and on going issue's wise decision you made in regards to that engine the car different story personnel I would of got the diesel version but PD engine pretty reliable but you may not have them in USA . Best of luck with engine transplant
Mike, I agree 100% with your approch & decision on this engine. Your car or a customer's car, either way. What a headache. At least no customer involved in this case. But still what a waste of your time. VW techs: is this a common problem with this model VeeDub engine or is Mike just having a bad run of luck?
The exhaust cam phaser bolt is fairly likely to strip the splines. Mine came off like they were made of glass. Be prepared to drill & extract. If you have to drill, protect your oil passage from swarf.
I think you've got to have a very understanding wife Mike! I know how sometimes these jobs go sideways and it's challenging on many fronts ; ) Good call though on stopping - that's a wise decision IMO
Can someone explain , this engine has variable intake timing but the whole variable valve timing setup is on the end of the exhaust cam? How does that work?
Glitter in paint is pretty, glitter in oil not so pretty. I would have loved to see what was in the oil pan. I'm glad they took care of you on the expired warranty. I would have liked to tell you the story of a customer and his 5.4 3V ford truck but that would be way too long!
Hey Keith, could not agree more...I hate glitter in the oil! Yes, it would have been nice to see inside. I was pretty frustrated and didn't want to do more work than necessary on that junk motor. Ahhh yes, the ol' 3valve...I'm pretty sure every one has been unlucky with those and has a story to tell :( Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
I did a 2001 TT 1.8t used engine replacement not too long ago and only lasted 6k miles then lost most compression in all cylinders so these things happens. Though this was purchased from a private party and pretty cheap. Now a low mileage with 1 year warranty engine is going in next time
My initial guess would be the engine's HPFP had a failed cam follower in the past causing the scoring and scraping on both the chain cover and phaser. Or even a broken chain or tensioner could've done it.
You have to remove both the timing belt cover and that mount support together that way it is easier and you don't have to remove or loosen any other parts
Just did this job on my engine. Tip#1: Don’t buy the VW/Snap-on Polydrive bit. I broke 2, and so have other people. Buy the Schwaben one. Tip#2: Have a spare engine sitting by for parts. 😂
I'm experiencing the same code P2293 on my Audi A3 2.0 FSi. I thought is it was the high pressure fuel pump, it replaced the pump but the fault keeps on coming
Damn Mike, That is super generous of a junk yard to give you your money back on a used motor. I've never heard of that one before. Have you ever thought of getting another Toyota or Lexus ?
Hey Jeremy, they just swapped out the motor with a new (used) one. Far from giving my money back :( Depends what I find that pops up for sale broken. Not against either of them though! Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Looks like it took awhile to get out of the denial phase! I think I probably would have thrown in the towel when I saw the wear on the cover. I know, Monday morning quarterback!
Haha my biggest issue was the replacement. I wasn't willing to spend on another motor. Fortunately, they took care of me. Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Would you happen to have a Premo Code to use at the Online Store FCP ? Also I'm not sure if it's made for the VW 2.0T FSI engine or not but I see Cam Followers with a roller on the end that meets against the Cam, So maybe less Ware & Tare on the Cam , If I can find that type of Cam Follower for the VW FSI 2.0T would you recommend it ? Part# HITACHI FUP3058
When this happens on a customer's car it is right away going to be bad for A) you, free labor potential, and/or B) the customer, and his/her attitude. Always better when it's on your car. No way to know til you're in There! Right call Mike.
Hey Gunnar, this definitely would have ended up being a come-back repair vehicle. So glad I was able to get the other engine in there! Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
After some time see how you do and learn about picoso. maybe it's time I decided to take me home. I need a safe money transfer as well as goods to Vietnam
That would be a long video with too many beers and curse words ;) No, this vehicle the entire front clip comes off and she pulls right out of the front with the trans attached. I'll include pictures in the part-4! Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
The scoring on the cams are pretty normal for these engines. Its a hardened aluminum contacting a steel cam. Also, why would you reuse a timing belt? You're cautious in all the wrong ways unfortunately.
As longs went that far in desassembling the enging Just do borescope make sure no problems there and compression test And buy a new part for the part that are not good And re asseble the engine You almost there to have good engine
metal shavings in the oil passage means it wasnt caught by the oil filter. my guess is it had a timing chain break at one point and was fixed causing the shavings and that damage to the cover. poor clean out on the repair. caused by a seized hp fuel pump? (check that cam for a twist/ bend) not much choice since the housings are the bearings. could do a top end but for the price might as well swap it. i like to buy a gasket set and pull the "new" junkyard engine apart enough to make sure its ok while its out of the car. ya get clean leak free to start with as a bonus. saves a lot of r&r if ya get a bad one
Hey Richard, thanks for watching! Love the broken chain theory. That makes sense. Wow though, can't imagine what it would take to break that chain!!!!! I'm contemplating tearing this engine apart...I think I may just pull the HPFP and see how the follower looks. I already pulled the timing cover window....belts original at 80-something thousand. Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
If the timing chain broke, they would have had to replace at least most of the intake valves and pull the head. This likely did not happen. More likely the cam follower failed and wore through the cam/fuel pump.
I've had some bad luck with reman in general. Personally, OEM reman or used...those are really what I end up choosing usually. Depends on the vehicle and the customer for sure. Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Huh, here I was under the impression the trunk of a 94 Celica couldn't even fit a case of beer, let alone laughing horses, haha! So...side note, had to Google VW-Laughing horses....i've never seen that commercial. I understand now :) Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
I have a stern bias against anything VW, I would recommend to a customer to replace vehicle with a known good anything not VW...or European cars for that matter. I'm pretty sure the European philosophy to engineering cars is make a mess, call it a car, and pretend it's better than everyone elses.
@@GoTechTraining , I don't really even work on European cars unless I absolutely have to. So much more of my frustration comes from the difficulty of overcoming so much built in complication from the factory. In my experience with VW alone, you can't do anything to the engine without removing the front bumper or putting it into what they call a service position. What I've seen of service info across the board for European vehicles is it's so laden in it's own overly explanatory vernacular while still not giving any clear directions or part identification. (I'm still not sure what name they've given to pistons over there.) I will always beg whichever god is actually in charge of this shit hole planet to send me an English to English translator if I have to work on a European car. As an example, the first Mini I ever worked on took me 20 minutes to discover they call a hood the bonnet and that the release lever was tucked up under the dash on the passenger side of the car. Another one I can recall came from a Mercedes ML320. I had a hell of a time figuring out what to even call the part I was replacing. I did find a name for it that 5-6 words long. But it was most commonly referred to as M55 in most service info and known as a swirl valve by real humans. Scan tool jargon and navigation even slays me on scan tools I'm otherwise completely skilled in using. How long did it take you to find that code you've been diagnosing? I could lose 10 minutes trying to get through that esoteric BS just to find some weird ass code that's not going to have any viable reference in Identifix or Alldata. One area I've never been able to avoid a European car is with alignments. They always come with 10 extra measurements I can't produce, require 20 extra tools nobody can prove exist, demand 150 pounds in each front seat, more specified weight in the rear seat, even more specified weight in the trunk, and a full tank of gas. With a Mercedes, they also throw in some kind of dewey decimal system that may or may not identify something in the suspension, vehicle model, or they're possibly accounting for the extra weight of a full ash tray custom built and installed for that one customer. I have no idea what it actually means, but I can't evade the alignment, so I navigate the menus forward and backward multiple times to try and ensure I'm making the best wild ass guess as to what I'm even aligning. Ironically and in spite of all this information they'll demand from you, they never let you easily and clearly ID a model. I''ve aligned 8-10 BMW 328i's over the last couple years. I pray that the "3 series" was the right option to click or I otherswise have a lot of shredded tires to explain. Before i find too many more things to be a bitch about, I'll summarize it like this: Your current bad experience with your VW is still better than my bad experiences with any Euro junk I've ever worked on. If somebody tries to accuse me of being a Karen right now, at least acknowledge I'm trying to be an informative Karen.
Hey Shaun, i'm just amazed at your passion....against the Euros ;) I agree though...i've never had to buy so many special tools just to do what I considered a simple job. Triple square sockets, poly-drive sockets, special cam holder...the list goes on. Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Unfortunately I'm obsessed with audi. They're the best handling cars I've ever driven. But I totally agree with you. I tell people audi are the nicest pieces of shit around. They all have the exact same problems wich is a good thing cuz you automatically know what's wrong when you get a code but wtf. What other car can I get the same handling with that's American or just ez to work on? My problem is that I had a 2007 audi a3 hatchback 6 speed years ago. My dumbass just went and bought a 2006 audi a3 hatchback automatic. Wtf am I doing lolol I love that car tho. I've never had such a small car go so fast and hug the road like that thing did
These engines will go to 250k easy if you maintain them. 5k oil changes. Get the updated pcv. Don't forget to do the timing belt at 10 years 100k and the timing chain/tensioner. Cam follower ~50k. Rear coolant flange needs to be swapped to the new aluminum and silicone oring. You could do all of this yourself for a few hundred.
