Bodyman and painter here- also raced/maintained sprint cars for 25 years. Not many people can do basically everything to restore a $200-300k car. I am extremely impressed with this guy!
@@thewriter2549is the red oxide ppg dp74 ? Looks close if not. Dp74 is the original stuff. Haven’t bought any in 3/4 years. Since I shot the last underside , which was a 68 Dearborn car , wouldn’t shock me if they stop making it. It’s the best there is.
Niesamowity? 😆😆😆 Niesamowite smarowanie uszczelniaczem na gołe blachy i to palcem 😆😆😆. Wyczyszczone, wyspawane blachy zabezpieczasz wpierw podkładem epoxy. Później uszczelniasz złącza, spawy, zakładki blach. Konserwujesz podłogę, wnęki kół, slody progów, wnętrza tylnych błotników. Na to dajesz podkład albo tlenkowy, albo akrylowy, a na to lakier. Profile zamknięte i wnętrza progów zapsikujesz woskiem do profili zamkniętych. Wtedy masz zabezpieczone i wilgoć do blach nie dojdzie.
A masterclass on how you do it correctly. He is an absolute artist at the height of his craft. Anyone who restores mustangs or Shelbys should watch this series.
*Jerry!* It's always a pleasure to watch a true craftsman performing their work. The combination of experience, ability and especially *care* is so rare these days, sadly. The difference in the level of effort between this sort of "lifetime" work vs. the typical body shop collision repair is *huge* and why it costs so dang much! (There's many similarities between that Ford of yours and equivalent Mopar unibody construction of the day, Jerry 🙂 ). Looking forward to the next episode! - Ed on the Ridge
Dang Jerry this is just fascinating to see and watch how he explained every single action he takes to seal this Shelby. And listing to him refer to the word "Concourse" has got to be music to your ears haha! Thank you for sharing this experience with your subscribers it's quite an honor actually.
As a retired 4X ASE Master Technician, I really appreciate the research that you had to do in order to ensure that you were using factory techniques to replicate the look. It shows your enthusiasm to be the best restorer you can be. Well done!
This guy is doing a great job, he explains why he is doing it the way that does. I am about at the same point in restoring my 67 Shelby. We changed the way we were doing some of the work to the way he does it. Thanks again for another great video.
A rotisserie off frame restoration is the only proper way to do a car or truck it’s absolutely professional what this guy is doing totally respect him.
Wow so much work... is this overkill? Or is something less expensive and labor intensive an option for bringing say like a 22 yr old mustang like a 2001 bullitt with gas tank filler area rust and some electric issues and such?
As great as this video series is so far, I absolutely cannot wait to see the finished product. Thanks to guys like him restoring the classics!!!! The attention to detail is phenomenal and well deserved.
When finished, we want to show Jason driving the car, initially, as he gets it running, followed by the brothers that sold me the car, and Dan Bailey, that found the car.
Don't take this the wrong way Jerry, but why at your age have you decided to have a classic car restored in a Concours method,? are you going to compete at the level with the car?, if so, do you really want the headaches of the competition at that level? Why not think in more modern terms, and take some of the steps to the next level, and make the finished product a little nicer. An example of what I'm referring to is, undercoating the entire bottom of the car, it would protect the metal better from debris hitting the underneath, and would help with sound deadening. Being relegated to techniques, and products from 50+ years ago when restoring a car, seems impractical knowing what most car builders know these days.
Okay, that's a good question. I went back stock as much as I could because I dreamed of having a Shelby just like Carroll Shelby built in 1967. I don't want modern, not on this. Also, I wanted to show a restoration. I won't drive the car much. I owned my 100% stock 289 Cobra 28 years and put 5,000 miles on the odometer. I liked looking at it in the garage, like wow, look at that Cobra, just how it was in 1965! Sometimes I'd just sit in the driver's seat and dream. I'd fire it up and drive it once in a while and that was kind of like a dream. If I hadn't dreamed I wouldn't have done what I've done. I would have worked 9 to 5. That was very practical. I don't think it would have been as fun. I could be wrong. I work too much, but most of it doesn't seem like real work.
I don’t have a problem with how the car is being finished, my question is why would you go through all of this and then paint it a non-factory colour? Candy apple red????
@@dougwilson9216 "Candyapple Red: is the stock color, which is "T" code. We went over this in the barn find video of this car. If you didn't watch, here is the link - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-qL6N-WF7AD0.html Thanks for the question Doug.
Hey Jerry, love your content and the restoration of your car. Got a question, do you have engine and tranny for it? I hope you have it, it Will be not so easy task to find one these days i think. Much love from eastern Europe🙂👌
I’ve really enjoyed these videos. I seldom watch the long ones but these kept me glued. This 67 is from my era. I’m 74 and couldn’t afford the mustangs but my first car in 1968 was a 1960 Falcon 😂, but, found a mustang that had caught fire and totaled and it had a 289 HP with a 4 speed trany that went into the falcon rear ended and all. Sleeper for sure. Never done any racing but played with it a lot. It was funny when I saw someone working on side of the road and I’d bark tires through 3rd and got funny looks cause everyone knew a falcon couldn’t pull your hat off your head. Drove it for several years and parked it on my dads farm and younger brother played with. Wasn’t supposed to but dad sold it to a crusher. Already had the trans and rear end out and gave it to a friend that restored mustang’s.
Fascinating the need to imitate the imperfections of the original manufacture in order to be concourse. I saw elsewhere that the final paint needs a small amount or "orange peel" to imitate the factory paint of the period. If you buff it to a glass finish, you will lose concourse points. Thank you for sharing this fascinating process! (my OCD I can't resist making my seam sealer neat. LOL)
@@thewriter2549 That's fun to think about - I grew up reading your books and articles! My dad was a fan and was always against "over-restoring" these cars. I distinctly remember him lecturing me about orange peel when redoing his bro's Boss 302 in the early 90's. He shot the car with single stage and held out against base/clears until it was no longer possible to get/find those original style materials. He reluctantly painted his '72 Mach 1 in RM base clear around 1999 on top of the same PPG primers you used. Even then it was quite expensive!
i worked on these 60s 70s cars back in that day i saw these cars coming off the truck at the dealer i worked at, these cars were a car when they went to throw a way cars i was sick never was the same i was a body man, very good work young man you would have liked those days.
THANK YOU SO MUCH for this video series. I was born in 1957, in 1973 my first car was a1967 Ford Mustang Coupe 6 cyl, 3 speed in Red with Black bucket seat interior. Have been in love with that year Mustang ever since, & the 1967 Shelby has been in my heart since the movie Bullitt, with Steve McQueen in 1968. I still go back and watch that amazing chase scene over & over. AND MAN is that guy working on your car talented !!! THANKS. I now live in a mobile home park for 55 year olds plus folks, & in this park alone there is a 66 Mustang coupe in Red, a 1954 Chevy Coupe in Red & White, & a 1964 Buick Skylark Special 2 door coupe. 🤗
Jerry, it's been a pleasure so far, watching your baby come to life. Looking forward to seeing her finished. You have an excellent set of hands & eyes, doin your ol girl justice.
Incredible workmanship by an experience craftsman. What knowledge and experience he has. Just amazing to watch and hear him explain the different aspects of a great restoration. I can't imagine what he charges an hour, but his workmanship is worth it...
I wish there were more videos of this guy...these videos of him, just the last 4, have answered over a dozen questions I have on my mustang restoration.
I have been thinking about making part 5 and on as subscription only for maybe 5 bucks per month and add one part per month. Views are much lower on tech articles, so I lose money doing this work - expenses exceed income here. Each segment is long and takes over 100 hours to edit. Part 4 took 3 weeks and 130 or so hours to edit. I won't sacrifice quality for speed. What do you think? Would you subscribe?
very nice work this painter restorer is very knowledgeable and informative in laymen's terms he knows his shit it was very enjoyable watching this car getting treated to a mani pedi this afternoon
Hi Jerry, good evening! I would really like to know the name of the equipment you use to attach the car chassis and turn it at 90°C? I found a way here at the workshop to close holes in the bodywork using cast iron (melted). A ceramic plate is positioned under pressure behind the hole and the molten iron comes on top, for a quick and well done job, then just finish it off. I would like to know the name of the machine, thank you.
Thanks so much for sharing this whole process with us Jerry. So happy for you…this is such a special Shelby. Your videos & narrations are always so top notch and bring us so much joy.
Impacted kidney stones put me a couple months behind. I'm going to be making the remainder of the restoration videos RU-vid subscription-only at $4.99 per month, cancel anytime. Is that something you would subscribe to?
I hope you are feeling better, and those things don’t return. I’ve really enjoyed watching the mustang build, but I just watch because I appreciate the craftsmanship. I would not be interested at $4.99 month.
@@thewriter2549 I'm also very interested in seeing the rest of the restoration as I've been following this build since the beginning. But I wouldn't pay to see the videos. Just my two cents.
Its is easy for someone to sit at home (like me) and watch and nit pick this resto....however in this case I will. I spent 20+ years in a paint shop working for a global Automotive company and sealer was my speciality and I find it hard to believe even in 1967 that Ford USA would had applied their sealer then the operator running their fingers over it...... certain area's yes like deck lid's bonnet's etc the corner area's but the rest normally by gun then brush especially inside the floor pan as for the original "bead sealer" not touching the seem that would had been beacuse the operator was lazy and didn't do their job right and the quaility control operators at the end of the line in this process would had missed it (happens 5/100 cars or so) depends on the operators at the time. Apart from that it was most enjoyable to watch job does look amazing.
If we could talk to several assembly line workers back then. Otherwise, don't you think it's fairly easy for restorers to see the remnants of the work including fingerprints in the seam sealer?
@@thewriter2549 no….. have you ever work in an automobile company in their paint division for 20 plus years ?? If you had or have you would understand the point I’m trying to make.
@@peterbrady5273 I think I understand your point. I'm not disagreeing with what you are saying. My source here is the restorer. Maybe an assembly line worker can respond here.
@@thewriter2549 as I originally said it’s easy for me to sit in front if my 75 inch tv and nit pick the resto … however your right would be good to hear it from a line worker definitely. If I had a Mustang to be restored I’d take it to this guy in a heart beat definitely you can see his attention to detail and his passion for his work which is a rare event in the modern world…. I learnt my craft from old school tradesmen who used to draw and draft vehicles by hand in a drawing board not like today even though I was brought up in the CAD era of manufacturing then it n to automation etc. I’m looking forward to the rest of the build and I wish you well.
@@peterbrady5273Sorry to nitpick in return but how many pre-1990's USA cars have you seen apart? Build quality and QC was really that bad in many cases. The seam sealer is always a mess on these cars. This Shelby is being restored as close to its as-built condition as is practical. Like Jerry said, you can see witness marks all over the original seam sealer showing brush strokes, finger swipes, blobs, etc. It's plain as day. Nothing really to dispute.
Jason explained that when he was spraying on the red oxide primer to the bottom of the unibody. I'd have to go back and get those quotes or risk remembering it incorrectly, so if you can go back there you will get the full explanation.
I started watching the restoration from the barn find to the turntable. The gentleman you chose to do the restoration is absolutely a master in his craft. His attention to detail is incredible. I am looking forward to the next video in the series. I agree that it’s great that there is no background music because I want to hear what you and the restorer have to say!
@@justaskmeiknow5584 Thanks for your concern. I had impacted kidney stones that cost me two months. My thanks to the Mayo Clinic in Rochester I should have a new video edited and online by mid January.
PPG INDUSTRIAL BLACK NO SANDING and color is it single stag or base and clear clear is hi or low solid ???? Love your cars my 70 mock 1 ppg 13327 blue help my car on rotisserie and got it primed k 200. and DP40 gray in under blacked out
Some holes are there to let water and moisture out. That big hole around 17 minutes in, on the outside, down low.....the frame forms a sort of vessel, and needs to be drained. Well, you just filled in the drain. Rust will develop in that area now. Now I'm guessing this car will not always be driven in the rain, never see snow, and will be garage kept. So rust is not going to be a problem.
Bodywork is not rocket science. It’s just a matter of opinion you’re right might not be my right different ways of doing things I don’t think all your ways. All right I’m just saying.!!!
Love this stuff......I've got a line on 68 Mustang convertible that we are going to need to rotisserie and I've going to use these vids for the base restoration.
Do you have any ideas why Part 1 and Part 2 have been popular, but Part 3 and Part 4 have been watched far less and for far less time per video? I am guessing a smaller group of people want to see more detail, which is why I slowed down on these.
@@thewriter2549 Thank you! Yeah, I went back to a previous video and found that information. Looking at buying some fastback quarter panels for a project I have and have heard some suppliers didn't fit the same as the originals.
@@tombuer7708 I think today's quality quarter panels fit better than original Ford quarter panels. Did you notice in part 3 the product Jason used in place of lead that the factory used? And he said that new product is better than lead.
@@thewriter2549 Yeah, I used to be a bodyman years ago and know about that "all metal" filler.. I drove a 67 fastback years ago and want to "recreate" the fastback I had that I sold in the mid 1980s.. btw, those were coupe quarters he cut off. The second of the part number started with 65, that's Ford's code for coupe. Fastback was 63 and convert was 76.. It's been many years since I did much body work so some of the tools and some procedures have changed.
Unibody beats body bolted to a low slung frame, the latter heavier and less rigid structurally, compared to the unibody that connects the top and bottom of the vehicle into one unit, and thus being more like a race car with tubes running top to bottom to restrict the body and chassis from leaning.
That’s incredible work, skill and knowledge. Industrial paint is amazingly good but amazingly expensive. I use it on some projects and it’s so different to “normal” paint, it sticks to metal like shit to a blanket, is extremely durable and will generally be more tolerant of poorer preparation. It goes on thicker and seems to go further and one coat is normally enough so I guess the high price actually saves time and money.
It doesn't look like factory? Have you researched the factory procedure by inspecting floorpans, trunk and engine bay of a 1967 Mustang? What did you find?
GREAT VIDEO MAYBE A SMALL BRUSH WITH CORRECT SOLVENT WOULD LOOK BETTER AND NO DIRTY FINGER LOL FOR THAT CAR WHAT'S ANOTHER 50 $ FOR A BETTER LOOK ? MY 2 CENTS WORTH
"A better look?" Jason reproduced the look of the seam sealer that he found in the floorpans, engine bay and trunk compartment. Did you watch all the video? I know people often skip around and miss details. I've done that too, which is why I work hard to keep the video fast-moving and interesting.
Jason showed that material and explained much about it. I can't recall the name or I'd say it. I guess you all skim through the video. I get it. I do the same thing sometimes.
It’s been 25 years since I’ve painted a car….nbut back in the day there was no way you could touch something with your bare skin before painting it. It would blur after it dried. Paint must be a lot better now.
Yeah, Jason named the product in the video. If I could remember I'd tell you. You're probably like me. Sometimes I skip through a video and then miss things.
My goal was to "restore," and keep it original. Jason showed some of the original metal is galvanized. I am thinking of making this series subscription only. Would you be a subscriber to this series at $5 per month, which you can cancel at any time?
