If you click "SHOW MORE" in the description above your be able to see Links to the Tools 🔧🔨🔧 I use. Also Clickable Chapters📋 📙 throughout the video and other Links 🎬 that may be of interest. I've had a few viewers request where they can buy the tools they see in some of my videos but it's not very clear that the "SHOW MORE" tab has a lot of information in that may be of interest. Admittedly the amazon links are associated with me and I would earn a small commission which helps towards keeping the channel funded.
Just a quick tip for anyone doing this whilst the subframe is still fully in-situ - you'll find the footwells are in the way to the rear of the bush so shoving the screw assembly in from that direction isn't possible as it's fairly tight back there. Best way is to pop the force screw in from the front, feed the press plate in from the rear, thread the two together, then pop the cup over the front, bearing and then nut. Tighten the tool up until it's nearly in position then stick a hand around the rear of the bush and hold the press plate square against the rear of the bush whilst finishing the tightening. Once it's in position you can then start to tighten the tool to begin removal of the bush - just keep checking that the tool remains flush and square to the rear of the bush as if not, it can start to push against the housing (which definitely won't move) and may end up in a snapped screw. It's not difficult, just a bit fiddly but once it starts to move you'll have it out in a matter of minutes. You may find as well that as it tightens and the screw moves rearwards that it starts to hit against the footwell - in that case slacken the press tool assembly, wind the screw forwards and re-tighten. You might need to do this a couple of times before the bush comes completely free - and you'll most likely need to finish with a spanner as you'll likely not have a socket with enough depth, however by that point the bush will be more or less out so you shouldn't need arms like Hulk Hogan ha ha! These are brilliant little tools, and there is one floating around on eBay for about £30 which I've previously used several times with great success - these come highly recommended to anyone wanting to do this job themselves. These bushes are a pain in the backside and regularly fail, a good way to avoid having to do this too often would be to upgrade to poly bushes which will also stiffen the front end up and offer some improved turn in - they're also easier to reinstall and remove in future if required. Great video as well mate, many thanks for sharing! Just thought I'd bang some tips in for anyone who might be struggling as I've done this job a couple of times now on a few Mini's 👍
Thank you Andrew Paul for such useful input. Experience always wins over theory. Hopefully your advice will add the icing on the cake to help others do the job successfully. Will pin this comment.
@@CoatsandGaiters Cheers mate - also, a good tip for anyone who's looking to buy an R50 / R52 / R53, or someone who already owns one and would like to very quickly check the condition of these bushes - with the car on the floor and the wheels straight, kick the tyre directly from the front and towards the bottom nearest the road surface. You don't need to kick it overly hard - you're looking for the wheel to 'bounce' backwards - if there's a fairly obvious movement then the bushes are probably not in the greatest condition and should be changed.
Fitted a new clutch so changing all the bushes and doing work that's hard to get at while sub frame lowered Was having major problems fitting one of the control arm bushes watched this and used a sash cramp and this did the job in no time it practically jumped on itself... enjoy watching your videos have now subscribed.... Even after working on cars for over 40 yrs still tricks to learn Thanks....
Excellent video. Helped me get this job done. Since I don't have a press, I bought the Maddox MC21-1 kit and was able to use my impact and a well greased screw / bearing remover. Tip: once I got the OEM metal bushing out as far as it would go, I then flipped the lid of the bearing puller around to give me that last centimeter of clearance. The bearing puller needs to be used correctly up until that point. Once there is only a tiny bit left it won't take too much more force to get the bushing out the rest of the way. Have to be very careful to use the right size plate so that it will have clearance to pass through.
Thanks for the reply on the previous video and alerting me to this video dropping today. Brilliant tool you've found to remove and replace the bush. Now if I can find it reasonably priced in the States, it should make my job a good measure easier.
Great video but a lot of this cant be done the way its demonstrated here with the subframe on the car making the title inappropriate. I'm probably just bitter from hammering on rust seized parts at ridiculous angles for hours trying to do this :/
13:25 By the way, this does not work if the subframe is on the car. There is not enough room for the force scew to install it in that direction because it hits the firewall/floor pan! 😬 The trust and press adapter have to be installed opposite the actual direction, and then you have the next problem, the bushing can't be pressed in far enough, so it sticks out in the front and doesn't stick out far enough at the rear towards the floor panel! This tool is only of limited use and, in my opinion, it is almost a complete failure, because it is advertised that the bushing can be changed properly with the subframe fitted, but unfortunately, as already described, this does not work properly! 😵 Despite everything, you did a great job! It's a very good manual with many very helpful comments! 👍😊 Thank you very much for that, it helped me a lot, even if I now have to tinker to get the bushing completely in. 🤔😁
Thank you for this information. I never tried it on the car so if it's like you say it is that's not a good situation as you might as well just buy new bushes complete and remove them with the subframe off the car. I presumed this tool was to make like easier with the subframe still in place. Maybe this is why the Poly bushes are so favoured even if they do give a hard ride on the road.
@@CoatsandGaiters That's right, if the subframe has to be removed anyway, then you can also buy the complete carrier with the bush already pressed in and you don't need any special tools and you save your nerves! The tool is useful for the removal, but only conditionally useful for the installation of the wishbone bushings. I share your opinion that this is probably why the Poly bushings are very popular. Greetings from s-hole Germany mate! ^^
I've done both methods, doing them while still the sub frame is still in the car is hard, I have broken the tool doing it , I found it better to cut the shell out with a re-cip saw and chisel , I have fitted new bush with the tool , but again its awkward , if fitting while the frame is still in the car , its so much easier to use poly bushes as a upgraded alternative these are easier to fit and replace as and when ... But dropping the sub frame is prob quicker and easier to press the shells out ..
Extremely helpful thank you ,I will try without dropping sub-frame need Laser extractor tool first if available to buy online ? with inserts if possible ,your presentation and clarity are real quality ,merci
Seeing as this entire job is pretty awkward even with the subframe off the car, you may as well lower the sub frame and do all the bushes and ball joints in one hit. The lack of access and light would make this an absolute nightmare and would take three times longer with the subframe on. I guess if the bushes are available with the housing, why not exchange for complete units? Great channel and video though. Very well explained and informative 🤘🏼
Thank you for the comment and yes your absolutely right. Normally you would do all the bushes while the frame is off. Logically you'd probably paint the subframe as well if it were the summer time. You can buy the full unit with the bush in which again is probably easier and less trouble and no tools needed.
Hello Mark. have you thought to use a trust ball bearing on your forcing screw. Just to ease the load on the thread, We have used them for years on large safety valves. Just a thought as some of the faces can get galled with the pressures involved.
Hi Neil and thank you. Not sure I’m with you Neil. The brass part is a ball bearing race. Do you mean that part or something extra that’s not in the kit?
@@CoatsandGaiters Hello Mark, yes that what i am talking about, I did not see that it was a bearing ,it just looked like a bronze bush in the video. sorry for the confusion.
@@neilhampson2843 thank you for saying though as it looks like a bronze bush and had it been your advice would be important. It’s like a sealed bearing by the look of it. You can just see the ball race inside.
Thank you so kindly for the gift Norm360, very much appreciated. They are a friction fit so you could remove if careful as to not damage it and then reinsert. Are you doing your bushes then?
@@CoatsandGaiters thanks picking up a r50 tomorrow that requires the bushes replaced and trying to work out how much of a headache I've made for myself
Using the tool it can only go so far as your pulling the push into the tool body. If you carried on tightening you would probably snap the tool thread. I think it's even at each end.
@@CoatsandGaiters I used my concrete floor to set the first bushing in the control arm and the bracket is roughly 5/8 from the square piece that acts as the backer. I could not get the sleeve to be flush with the hex post. Will that matter as long as they are both the same?
@@CoatsandGaiters I do not have the tool to press the preloaded bushing/bracket onto the control arm so hammer and concrete floor is what I have to use.
@@tableleg704 You did line the markings up though on the bush housing to the bush? As long as the bush is lined up and in with roughly equal protruding at each end it should be ok.
Thank you for the compliment. Are you planning on changing the bushes while on the car as access will be limited. I saw a video where they used ratchet straps to pull the control arm in which might work but there is a risk of stretching the rubber as you force it in. If you can support the end like I did with the sash clamps but use ratchet it might work.
@@aftabazad371 fair enough it will make access a lot easier. You can change the anti roll bar bushes as well while your at it and maybe the inner ball joints.
I don't know what you mean Sir, it was most definitely a new nut per BMW instructions haha I just pre aged it to match the rust on the rest of the car lol
@@CoatsandGaiters ;) great vids , im doing my daughters car atm , started off with pads and disks then escalated to wheel bearing ball joints and bushe ... im hoping to do the bush with the tool as I have the car butted close to a wall in the rather narrow garage with now no access to the drivers side ... if only Id parked the car in the middle before I striped everything off ...
@@aevans692 are you talking about the rear control arm bushes which are near impossible to get to as I believe Poly Bushes are easier to fit and last longer. I believe you fit the outer part of the bush and then push the inner part in which locks it all together so no special tools needed. I've not used them but I believe they are better so I've read. Here's a link to some amzn.to/35B0YhP
@@CoatsandGaiters yeah thats the one lol .. there is one bolt tucked up under the sub frame , what rubbish engineering deff not toyota .. ;) Thanks for the link I will have a look , prob the way forward , its mostly stripped out now .. Thanks ..
Thank you for the comment. How do you access the top of the two bolts holding the bush housing in place as they are right up against the vehicle body? I heard some mention drilling holes in the footwells to access them. How do you access them without dropping the subframe as that's how the Mini manual says to do them.
