Part3 • STAINLESS AUTOGENOUS 

Thank you for sharing that! That is a great history that makes me smile. I’m happy I’m just old enough to join VICA as it transitioned to SKILLS USA as it is now! It’s an awesome improving trades club that really promotes and excites students grow!

To be honest the look depends on pulse settings: if he put a champher and used a thin rod, with the same settings, the look would have been the same🤷🏻‍♂️

As a pipe fitter, when we weld in food grade plants a lot of the sch 5 tubing we fuse weld only. No use of filler. It has plenty of strength

yes true, but why is there such weak burn-through on the inside of the tube?

👍🏼 Read my post about this in the community tab.

@@KANEKIDWELDS Where is the "Community tab" ?

At the top of my page where the tabs are. *at your own risk* UV protection

Thanks for commenting the pre purge tip! That’s a great example! Let me know how the flash tacks work for you!

That’s awesome! Thank you!

Depends on thickness and you can only do that with pulse settings

Pretty sure from chumps that can't weld.

People who can't do it.

I believe industry standards are different for what he is doing tho, sanitary is less about aesthetics and more about integrity/cleanliness...just saying, he thinks ALOT and is critical about his own work. I'm guessing u try to do the same

@@DCweldingAndArt flat welds are always more aesthetically pleasing.

This is how I do for structured autogenous welds (exhaust) I’ve already explained how and why in the previous 2 clips. This is to emulate filler without using any.

@@KANEKIDWELDS same with sanitary welds. Butt welds no filler usually 45-55 amps with straight dc lift arc welder. Love S.S. Welding. It’s so clean.

@@KANEKIDWELDS Hey mate. What is the strength like compared to using filler rod? Love your work btw. Looking to upgrade from a scratch start to a full featured Tig in the next few days.

I've always wondered the same things here - i'm still relatively new only a year in tig welding stainless mostly for cosmetic or low strength applications (lucky enough to be trained up in a small business) but still no clue ...all i can say though is 90% of the welds i have repaired that broke were the ones done with no filler...especially the ones done on stainless rod frames that have massive undercut as well 😨😨😂😂😂

He is not filling any gaps and as long the welds are not below the base metal, root or face , the weld should not be weaker.

For materials under 3mm thickness, and especially butt welds, autogenous welds are very strong. And it is used in industry welding of fuel and hydraulic lines and in food industry as it makes for cleaner flatter welds, Filler is just that filler. If the fit is good there is nothing to fill. And filler adds more crevices for bacteria to grow or requires extra work to sand down. Good puddle control with autogenous welds will give you a silky smooth bead profile and solid fusion of both parent metals.

If you have a a snug,flush fit with zero gaps then fusing is fine for something like an exhaust pipe that gets bolted in place and won't bounce around.

That’s a cool tip!

I’ve only tested this type of sanitary welding up to 800psi and never had an issue. How high? I do not recommend this technique unless the operator has passes procedure without undercutting or underfill/concave profile.

If it’s welded out matching the specifics I’ve shown, then there is virtually no difference in integrity of either process. If the fit up isn’t square and flush, then undercutting or under filling could happen due to operator. The EMF will pull the weld towards the tungsten as the puddle cools and amperage decreases (same effect as a crater fill setting, or when the filler balls up and jumps to the tungsten instead of falling into the puddle) and the weld area will shrink together as the puddle temperature decreases. If you’re traveling too fast with this pulse technique or amps too high, it can cause underfill, or a droopy faced weld, which can be easily corrected with more push angle, less amperage input, or too high pulse background amperage.

@@KANEKIDWELDS Great to know, thanks for the info. Next time I build an exhaust I'm not adding filler... assuming I can get it to fit up properly lol. Just fixed my buddies magnaflow that had little spider cracks all over it. Pretty sure they used the wrong gas when they mig welded it... they shipped it out full of porosity. Don't buy magnaflow!

Try backing off the peak amperage, and traveling a bit slower to give the joint a stronger shrink between pulses. What is your purge setup?

@@KANEKIDWELDS almost exactly the same as you except I made my own silicone plugs in a plastic cup with a two part pourable silicone mold making compound.

@@KANEKIDWELDS thanks for responding so quickly. I'll try backing off the peak.👍

I’m showing what you can do without it, by using an unconventional technique that may provide same, or better results.

@@KANEKIDWELDS ok. not that i think it looks worse or anything(it looks really good), just that thought filler rod was needed.

From my experience with motorcycles its 99% determined by your fuel/air mixture and your ignition timing

I accidentally cut the wrong part out...16ga material - 1.4pps, 85peak amps, 40-45% peak amp on time, & 15%background amps. The OTC reads 05 on the display screen, but I think it’s the Lowest capable amp start. I think it drops with smaller electrode diameter, and sometimes it reads 06 when I have a frosty electrode.

@@KANEKIDWELDS thanks mate. Greatly appreciated

It’s called a sisu nasu, if I’m correct. It’s a foreign(to🇺🇸) personnel transporter that SMCO retrofit a 12v turbo cummins into & customized.

@@KANEKIDWELDS We used those to tow mortars in Finnish army 02

Stainless grades like 309, 316L, 316H, and RA330, Hastelloy are perfectly suited to extreme high temperature use. My guess is this material is 304L, which will also withstand a great deal of stress at extreme temperatures. The only thing better would be the stainless grades I mentioned above.

I covered that info in Stainless Autogenous - Part 1 & 2

guessing fitment is the key

I’m all about Speedglas. The best recommendation for a professional entry/budget would be the 9002NC, which has true color and precision clarity, as well as breath exhale ventilation. For the best ergonomics and everyday professional use, the 9100xxi is top. The 9100xxi and the 9002nc arc filters have the same technology and are optically identical. The 9100xxi has a slightly bigger view, auto on/off, + more adjustability. The pivot points on the 9100 are incredibly balanced and sit back at or behind the ears, so the weighted downforce of the helmet itself eliminates neck strain over long periods of wear. The side windows of the 9100 allow more awareness and feeling of openness which is very nice. This is my go-to over anything. For extreme, dirty, contaminated, or heavy duty welding I have the G5-01 VC w/ Adflo Air Supply. This helmet is absolutely incredible but not the most practical for typical everyday use. This helmet is completely modular and can be set up however needed with added protection features to external work lighting systems. The VC filter allows the color contrast to be changed at the tap of a button, or by a helper controlling the settings remotely via Bluetooth app connectivity. The colors are warm (orange/red), neutral (literally no color, just being able to see the raw arc), and cool color (the standard blue/green true color contrast widely available). All of the contrast colors are very useful, especially switching between processes. The g5-01 has every shade from 8-14 and flips up to be used as a grinding helmet. The air supply can be precisely controlled to aim the air wherever needed inside the helmet. My new favorite is the G5-02, which I have been testing for 2 years, (see my latest story post here to see it in action) and will be available on the US market next year. The g5-02 is the first ultra-wide CURVED glass auto darkening filter to exist in the welding industry, and I can’t even describe how amazing it is. It’s the neutral colorless lens and gives 120° of view to the user, with a light state shade of 2.5(which actually seems more like a 1.5-2) and you can actually see the details on the edge of a paper through it. It’s insanely HD crispy clear and the shell is super light. This helmet has proven to be the absolute best for cage welding and tight spaces, and the peripheral edges of the lens don’t sacrifice any quality or clarity. This also has the Bluetooth app connectivity to control and track information. I love all of these helmets for exactly what they are, and use them all.

Right on.. just curious what you recommend. I just picked up a optrel crystal 2.O after trying one out at Justin’s class in Las Vegas.. just wondering if there are better hoods. Only have one set of eyes

I’ve tried some friends optrels/fronius hoods and they have what I consider to be the closest high definition clarity next to Speedglas. The Miller helmets are the top tier worst I’ve used & have given me the most trouble, but they’re a welder company, not a dedicated ppe company.

👍🏻👍🏻 greatly appreciate the info sir

They’re just as strong as the rest of the metal. The only difference between autogenous welds and regular welds is that you aren’t adding extra metal to the joint. On non-structural welds, such as these exhaust joints, and the fit up is as close and solid as this setup, you’re basically just melting the two pieces of metal together using the existing material, making this just as strong as the rest of the material.

@@THESKINIMIN1234 Thanks for the info. So my next question is, why ever use filler on exhaust? Seems more cost efficient to just do autogenous period.

@@exhaustsauce Mainly fit-up, without a very tight fit-up the joint will open up into a keyhole much like welding an open root on pipe. Also without filler sometimes the welds can become concave or sunken in, which in turn would affect the integrity of the joint. On the topic of cost, I think the cost of fill rod would be negligible in comparison to the price of a custom job like this.

@@ScottJ2486 appreciate that 🙏

I’ve clearly showed in the video that they are not undercut at all. Watch the first video showing details and the information how.

😂

Thanks!

Ain’t missing nothin’ bud. If you read the caption, it’s very obvious what to expect.

This was during summer in the diesel bros shop, no AC and extremely hot inside. I would spray high spf sunscreen on my arms every 45mins or so & seemed to be protected well doing so. I don’t practice the sunscreen method ever anymore since I’ve designed & launched my Arc Defence™ line of fitted welding sleeves and PPE at KANEINDUSTRIES.co

I learnt to tig weld with a basic DC inverter from youtube videos. After 5 days i was doing 90° pie cut bends from 2" Stainless tube.. Its not rocket science the hardest part is finding enough time and gas to practice enough haha i finished a big bottle of argon in a week 🤣