coming from a mechanics background......."someone else has worked on it" and "assume they've done it right" are 2 sentences that when spoken together make my teeth itch and reach for my largest spanner and go looking for whoever took the job on😂😂😂
The transistor/FET next to the coils is destroyed. It is missing the top part of the package and the actual transistor chip is visible. To do this a lot of force would have to been applied when who ever removed the epoxy destroying both coils and the transistor. So even if the chip has been modded right it still won't work. Frankly from the looks it would need a lot of work to get it fully working. The transistor/FET, the coils and more than likely the chip would all need to be replaced. Also other things may need replacing if there is anymore things that the modder damaged. You can use wire to bridge the coils while you test since they are so small. But you shouldn't use wire as a permanent solution and if you do get it working replace the coils.
Thanks PDS, really appreciate the info. I noticed the damaged chip whilst editing (no idea how I missed it first time around!) It's labelled D500, so I'm thinking it's a Zener Diode being used to regulate the voltage. I'm gonna order up some parts and have another crack at this. Thanks again 👍
Never seen one of these before! Looks like a tough one to bring back to life especially as it so hard to compare readings with the working one. Enjoyable video Steve regardless of the final outcome. Hopefully look forward to revisit in the future some time 👍👍👍👍
Thanks Vince, definitely going to have another crack at it. I think I might have to do some Gadget164 style leg replacement on the chip, but I'd love to have a go at that! 👍
Ill say one thing, you have way more fortitude with this than I could ever muster. Too many unknowns and the board is in such shambles,. Very best of luck, I can't wait to see the next video!
For the video chip, you are required to lift and connect some pins if the screen mod is composite. The gray compound is not epoxy, you can very carefully remove it, it's still very easy to damage the inductors, transistors near can also go bad (but they are for the HV I think). And finally broken pads/traces are very common because og caps were of very bad quality and leak... on both there are 2 og caps still present, near the shield cans... This looks like a combination of bad starting board + dodgy recap + dogdy mod...
It's the inverter for the CCFL backlight, which is sealed because it is typically running at up to 60V. By shorting the inductors the backlight was running without ballast. Not good..
Chip could be mangled because it previously had a composite video mod done for a larger screen instead of a RGB one. The composite mod requires lifting a number of legs on the 6260 chip and grounding them. Quite possibly somebody tried to reverse the composite mod and broke off these parts. I'm not entirely sure if those legs are required for the system to work in RGB mode or not. Something I should mention is that generally a white screen when powered on, either indicates bad connections in the card slot or a faulty chip on the board. Usually the faulty chip is the 6280 one.
I didn't even know this existed before now! Very cool. Fun to see that it also takes SO MANY batteries. You may be Captain Bodge, but WOW that is some rough work on that board.
Thanks Sixty! Rough work indeed, it's such a shame to see it looking like that as these things are very expensive! Not sure I'm going to be able to get it working without another Hudson IC, but we'll see where I get from the comments 👍
It's so sad that someone destroyed something so rare...but I believe in you Steve, you can fix it! :) (You got the patience) I once received a "no power" Atari Lynx II to fix. After putting batteries into it, it started smoking :D Turns out, someone was trying to replace the voltage regulator but put a big solder blob that created a huge short around it instead. I manage to fix it at the end which was like a miracle to me because I've assumed it was gone.
i love owning one of these in my collection, tbh they can be a delight to work on but they absolutely demand the proper tools and research but have relatively few irreplaceable parts with the ones that are being very reliable. short of it having battery leakage or cap leakage totally melting it theirs not a lot that often goes wrong.
Thanks Sparks. It's a great handheld, I wish they were made available in Europe when they came out, I got lumbered with a Game Boy and a Game Gear. This thing is streets ahead of both!
You can use your dremel to scrape away some of the IC epoxy so you can solder wires to it. About the gray thing on your working one, you can heat it up with 200ºC and remove it with something pointy (for example a nail) it will become soft and breakable and no damage will be made.
Thanks for the info! I did actually manage to get the grey stuff off the working one off camera. It was like a silicone and when I put IPA underneath it, it came off pretty easy! Makes you wonder how the last "modder" managed to make such a complete mess of it!
Ive just watched this after picking up the holy grail of handhelds myself, re-capping and upgrading with the LCDDRV mod, and even with my basic skills, looking at this one ive done an incredible job haha!. What a mess!
Loving the variety on your channel. I would look for a lcd install guide on RU-vid so you know for sure what components are supposed to be missing for the mod. Then I would disconnect the lcd mod and work on the board. I'm optimistic you can get the board working with a new cap kit, replace missing/damaged parts and a shit load of continuity tests. It might be time to get a cheap oscilloscope to aid in checking video signals etc.. I would grab a proper SMD cap kit from console5 and recap. Those ceramic caps that was installed look suspect.
Thanks BitDigital! Yeah, you're probably right. I don't trust those caps to be correct, so I should at the very least check them I guess, but ideally replace... I'm still in shock at the scale of destruction on this thing!
As maddening as it can be to try to figure out what someone else did when they had no idea what they were doing I try to at least give them credit for trying. I've had to fix a LOT of problems caused by people not knowing what they were doing or not having the skills to do it but at least they tried. I hate it when someone just couldn't even be bothered to try. What's most important is not that they succeeded but that they gave it an honest attempt.
I'm still watching this video but, if I were doing a fix for a customer and it looked like that, I'm sure that if the owner who had extremely limited knowledge of soldering and opened this to see for himself why it still wasn't working, now knowing what a bad job, which is a polite way of what comes to mind the engineer had done, blood would most definitely be spilled. Welcome to Freddy's New Nightmare.
in my many years of modding for the community i learned one thing, never take a repair/ mod job when someone repaired/modded it before and did a totally botch job. it takes too much time and effort, the person that just wanted to have it modded just doesnt want to pay any more than he/ she had to from the beginning for doing the mod. It is the modders duty that was first in the machine to to the job right and working. if it wasnt working after the mod job, its up to them to make it work and not other modders to repair their botch job. at least call them out on their botchy work !
I had a mate just like you Steve and he used to repair cb radios he was clever like you but he got cb’s which other people had been in so he had to fix that mess first then find out why it went wrong in the first place 🤣 stay safe 👍
Wow. More surprising than anything is whoever modded this kept going after very obviously destroying component after component. I don't understand why they didn't just give it up as an idea beyond their skill level after the first abortion of an attempt.
You could have given the instructions to any random person, given them a soldering gun, and told them to have at it, and the result wouldn’t be any worse. Astonishing that someone presumably charged the original owner good money to do that.
What I don't know is how somebody can do it so bad... I'm not good at electronics and have barely enough tools. But I'm sure I could have done a better job... It's just having a bit of caution and fineness. This is just... idk, being dumb and careless
Wow that is crazy. but I do think you got somewhere. I would install the LCD screen upgrade on the working one. then you'll have more experience in which components might have been damaged. i think you can rebuild the Hudson chip legs, buy tbh the person who originally did this, did alot of damaged. so having the backlight is progress, as far as I'm.concerned.
Man that will be a tough one. I have one of these too (without a mod yet). Someone tried to switch caps and...left a mess...so i closed it up again and never looked at it again. Maybe I get back to it now that i saw yours ;D
if you wanted to add a region mod, you'd have to tap and cut into 8 data lines to flip them but doing it at the chip would be a horrible idea. A white screen can be a sign of a bad chip or it can't read the card data going off my pc engine/tg16 troubleshooting. its essentially the same system different form factor
Yeah, I think you're probably right. Not required, so no care was taken. I would not be able to live with myself hacking something like this up though! 😬
Yes yes Stezzzzy you were weaing the Captain bodge T-shirt looks like you were out bodge on this one dear sir x and I own one of those and done a lcd mod myself
to the right of l501 looks to be a totally de-capped transistor (or voltage regulator, unsure...)... try replacing that (it'll need replacing before you can find the next fault).... (at timefreame 14:06 of the video) Also, replace the inductors correctly.... they are important for voltage conversion... 300ohns on a inductor is completely off... the inductor should be 1 ohm.... you read 300 because the inductor is faulty/opened circuit and the ohms are actually everything else in circuit (ie: you are measuring as though the indictor wasnt even on the board) finally... carfully remove as much as the gray silicon gunk as you can, it will help see if the other previous owner cut away at other stuff underneath without knowing / without obvious signs....
The power of love 💘 ❤ 😆 🤣 😂 😹 so enjoy your videos 📹 😉 please keep them coming 🙏 👍 and here to help get your videos 📹 😉 out to everyone to enjoy 😉 😀 cheers 🍻 mate 👍 😀 😉
I really don't like the modding of really expensive rare handhelds to "improve" the screen or other features... Most of the times it permanetely removes an original model from the market, for other buyers (and yes... eventually you will loose all of your property for other collectors to consume). The quality of the mod can be questionable and can also make repairs or diagnosing problems much harder. I mean really, there are times when browsing ebay I encounter more modded genesis nomads than without mods. If they want a better screen so badly there are so many many more options.
I'm also having a problem with my pc engine. After the rbg mod is finished, it only shows a bright white or red or yellow screen. Is it because the signal tape slot is weak?
Thanks James. Yeah, that's what I fear too. I'm gonna give it another go, but it does look like it's a bit far gone! Hopefully I can get some life out of it! 👍
@@StezStixFix You are going to need to dremel grind down on that IC to get enough contact area to re-connect some of the broken off legs. If you can do that this system might have a chance.
Hmm! what would you call that person who worked on this if you are "captain bodge" LOL? I do not know why you are called captain bodge. Have I been missing something. LOL. In my view very unfair to call you that. Steve this was very interesting and you definitely need the help of the community because of the nature and state of this device (?modded). I personally have never worked on one. Who knows, may be one will come to me in the future?
Thanks M m! I think it was a self-titled name in one of my early videos (when I was pretty much useless! 🤣) Hopefully I can have another crack at this PCE GT, I really want to get it working! 👍
Are you using a proper region cartridge? If you plug a mini amp to the headphone socket do you get audio/music? I didn't watch the whole video...but...you checked ALL traces and so on?
I'm using an Everdrive. It works on the Turbo Express, so I'm kinda assuming it's gonna work on the GT. Although i don't know that for sure? Yeah, traces checked. I think the main problem now is the damaged voltage regulator and the 6260 chip with missing legs! Hopefully I can work it out 👍
Hey Steve you not Captain Bodge I think your work is awesome and I love your channel the only thing I don't like is your singing lol sorry bud 👍 Simon from the UK
First you can tell that it wasn't' You brother Steve! that did that MOD Simply because its disgusting!! & butchered!! = they had no F*** idea what they were doing 🤦♂ The silicon badly removed most likely was, they were trying to do a LIPO Battery MOD I can imagine. The Hudson IC legs lifted, another they have no idea how to RGB. That MOD is now on my top 5 for n00b installs. You maybe' Captain Bodge! but You would NEVER! install a MOD that bad hand on heart. Where the damage was done you NEED to add new inductors they wont! work as they are & what looks like the 5v regulator is missing too! Then you'll need to pretty much replace that Hudson IC. 👍🏻
Thanks Brother Steve! I noticed the voltage regulator whilst editing. It does look like it's had the top ripped off it! I'd try swapping over from the working one (coils too), but I'm so scared of damaging it, as these things are worth a fortune! And they're also not mine! I still can't understand why someone would go butchering a chip like that!? Even if you're trying to lift legs for some kind of mod, at least leave the bloody things attached to the chip!! I wonder if there is a way to remove some of the (plastic?) on the chip to expose what's left of the legs and run jumpers to where they're supposed to go? 🤷
Yes! you can I'd say but.. be gentle! with a Dremel or/and small file(s) you stand a good chance of finding a tiny part of the old leg or a slither of copper to solder on a thin wire and regain some kind of connection. So you may get it working, patients is a virtue my brother Steven! Some people don't care they see a MOD & think I must have that done & then they end up either happy or in this case regretting it sadly, all because they gave it the wrong person, who clearly doesn't give a dam what damage is caused unfortunately as long as they get something for trying, that's how I see it.
🤔 I'm very tempted to have a go. It's dead now, so what's the worse that can happen! 😬 Been trying to read up on the voltage regulator, and people are saying it doesn't have one. That component next to the inductors appears to be labeled D500, so would that suggest some kind of zener diode being used to regulate the voltage? 🤔
I don't think you could make it worse, you got the backlight going on the screen so, I'd carry on and do your best you can for now. Many revisions/models exist in the world, I swear each country has its own flavour ☺That can also be true! you could replace with a sot-23 3 legged zener diode that'll do similar, act to a regulator V-In V-Out GND it will protect the power supply circuit. If it seems high voltage it'll eat it. Look on RS for onsemi, 6.2V Zener Diode 6% 300 mW SMT 3-Pin SOT-23 You'll see what I mean.
Wow! what a hack job this is, I really hope you can get it to work again, looking forward to a revisit, I was looking at some youtube video's of lcd mods, and came across this one "Turbo Express LCD Screen Mod! Installation guide and demonstration" this is a different screen and it looks like this screen might have been installed before, or has been tried to install. You can see that for this mod some pins have to be lifted and they look like the pins damaged on your console. Maybe they broke off when bending them back? For the screen that you have now, no pins have to be bent so I'm guessing they will need to be attached back to the board. Looks like you need a new ic (probably unobtainium) or you have to dremel the ic and find a point to attach a wire. I did this with some ic's and all I can say is "be patient', it's very easy to dremel to much away and then there will be no copper left, so dremel, clean, dremel, clean etc.... Good luck!!!
Thanks Patrick! I think you're spot on there! I'll probably remove the Hudson chip and have a go with the dremel! It's not like i can really make it much worse! Really appreciate the info! 👍
"I should say I've never been inside one of these before so I don't know what I'm doing" Don't make a joke Don't make a joke Don't make a joke Don't make a joke
You have probably mentioned it in a video before, I've watched most back, but what is the white desoldering gun you have? It looks beautiful and useful for me too.
@@StezStixFix Since your last reply I've found an exact same model for a nice price. So I wanted to ask you, any tips for operating or storing the machine?
@@MrGtagangster I just keep mine on my desk, haven't had to do any maintenance on it yet. I operate it at 380 degrees and its worked every time for me on leaded or unleaded solder 👍
Whoever did this mess should be banned from opening any console up for the rest of their life. But what was the game of the man flying around on the working one? I remember it from the good old days. Tell me, tell me, tell me...
I know, I would be so upset and annoyed if someone did this to one of mine! Clearly someone who either didn't care or didn't know what they were doing (or more likely both!)
@@StezStixFix I had trouble with mine but it seems okay now, it just gets insanely hot and the screen flickers after about 3 hours play, it's missing the shielding, so it could be that, I am wondering if it's possible to add a stock heat shrink to the processor, but I've seen no information on it.
@@9ElevenGamer i noticed one of the Mosfets getting really hot while testing my one. I think the shielding is quite important, but I reckon a heatsink could be added. As long as there's enough room above the chip (which i think there will be since there's no shielding) 👍
@@StezStixFix I've got the RGB modded screen, it's pretty stable at present, but it does definitely get to hot, I tend to play with the battery cover removed, I could add a mini cooler fan I guess, you can get them about the size of a beer bottle lid I think they draw about 12V max, but I use a USB to PCE PSU that draws what ever the system requires so I don't foresee an issue, that said I am playing a guessing game, thus far it's been a small improvement every-time so I am doing something right.
@@StezStixFix It gets worse, there are actually dozens of different types of Swallow. But like most similar sized birds, they all tend to fly about 20-24 mph (32-39 kph).
