Pebeo Vitrea 160 Oven Bake Glass Paints. A Review. 

Was that with the waterbased Marabu glass paint (Decorglas)?

That's a great idea!

Thank you.

Really glad the video help you. Good luck with your future glass painting.

Yes, it was very helpful. My local shops sell limited colors though. Can you use the same brand of paints but for porcelain on glass? They do have some colors I like but for porcelain.

As far as I know you can use the Porcelain paints on glass but I would suggest doing a small test. Having said that they are't transparent like the glass paints, they are a lot more opaque.

If you are using the Vitra 160 with the intention of oven baking it then the only outliner I can recommend ids the one specifically made to go with it. If you don't intend to bake it or if you are using a different type of paint then you can then use an adhesive lead strip if you prefer. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-m5Bgh85LUVs.html (I also prefer to use a piping bag with most liquid leads rather than the applicator. Unfortuantely this can be problamatic with outliners in tubes as you can't get any you don't use back into the container. You can do this with bottle outliner. Blending the paints is fine, in fact it gives so really nice effects. This is a video about working with solvent based paints but the same techniques work with "flowing" waterbased paints. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-sUTmu27eiCQ.html

You won't be ab;e to avoid it totally but there are a couple of little tricks to minimise the effect. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-v225JYxmhBM.html

Thank you for asking this question! (And thanks for reply!!). This has been bugging me when I paint wine bottles

What outliner would you recommend instead of this one? Thanks from Canada

It really depends what type of work you are doing. For these oven bake paints I would only recommend using the correct outliner as others may not take well to being baked. You might find this article/video useful, it explains the differences between the outliners. www.glasspainting.co.uk/glass-painting-questions/are-all-glass-painting-outliners-the-same

I can't say I've ever had an issue although I've heard it can be problematic if there are air bubbles in the glass. What I do do is start with the oven cold and put the glass in then rather than putting it in a hot oven. Same once it is done. I open the oven door and switch it off but I leave the glass in there until it has cooled down.

@@GlassPainting I just put a sheet of glass in the oven that I had painted with vitrea paint and the glass went white and wavy from the heat. It was a sheet of glass from an art frame. Very disappointing as I spent many hours on the piece. I wish your company had put a warning on the instructions as to the fact that some glass cannot take that much heat. Unfortunatley I have several of these frames for just this purpose which are now not usable.

@@annearmitage I've never heard of glass doing that and have never had any issues myself. The only issue I have heard of if glass cracking when their is air in it. Glass is based placed in a cold oven, heated to the correct temperature and then left in the oven as it cools down slowly. Thank you for the warning.

Yes I like the Pebeo Paints as well. I prefer their Vitrail ones as they have more colours and I believe are slightly more transparent. We have reviews of some of the other paints on our site: www.glasspainting.co.uk/glass-painting-equipment

Hi, sorry for the delay in responding. The type of outliner you end up with really depends on the type of sealant you use as the base. Some give a hard finish whilst others (mainly the flexible ones) give a softer outliner. Must admit I haven't tried putting them in the oven but now you've mentioned it I shall give it a go.

@@GlassPainting thank u for for respond , yesterday I have try and make the outliner with acryalic sealer and the result so bad 😢 its easy to remove it from the glass

Sorry to hear that. Again depending on which sealant you use it can be soft and "peelable". But as with the normal peelable outliners it is the paint which seals it onto the glass. This is different to the harder outliners (normally bought in tubes" which is hard in its own right. (Hope that makes sense).

The small pieces of glass came from a local friendly glazier... If you are a glass painter and have a local glazier it's always worth keeping on good terms them :-)

Glass Painting thank you. I like painting. Thought I’ll give glass painting a try. Thank you for the information. Cheers!

You are welcome. I hope you enjoy it. If you are just starting you might like our short course which is available both on our site and on the RU-vid channel. It's free and you don't have to sign up to anything!

No, only ones specifically designed as oven bake paints should be put in the oven. The two I know of are Pebeo Vitrea 160 and Lefranc & Bourgeois Glass & Tile Paint.

@@GlassPainting , Eliza Fern asked about glass in the oven... not glass paint.

No it will fade over time, the length of that time will depend on the type of paint, amount of direct sunshine etc. If you don't want to bake the work (or can't) I would suggest using a good solvent based glass paint such as the Pebeo Vitrail. I am experimenting with adding a crystal clear UV resistant varnish to the finished piece but it's a little early to gauge any benefits at the moment.

Must admit I've never had an issue but thank you for the warning.

I wont give a guarantee forever but the piece I have outside has show no deterioration at all in the last 12 months or so. Transparency differs colour to colour. Obviously back and white aren't transparent whereas colours such as red and yellow are very transparent.

You are welcome. Glad you found it useful

That's an interesting idea thanks. I'm a little concerned that the white is fairly opaque which the Turquoise is transparent but will certainly give it a try.

Hi. The paint is Pebeo Vitrea 160. An oven bake glass paint. There is also an outliner to go with it. Here in the UK I get a lot of mine from "Pullingers" as they are good price wise. You can also get it on Ebay, Amazon etc. If you haven't used it before I recommend trying the little taster set (the one I'm using in this video).

Most glass would be fine. The only issue would be if the glass had any air pockets in it. I've done vases and sheet glass, neither had an issue. I did start with the oven cold. I thought this was better than putting the glass into a pre-heated oven. The instructions for this particular glass paint say to heat it for 40 mins at 160C/325F . Other paints may differ.

@@GlassPainting very helpful. I appreciate it.

Sorry for the delay in responding. I see no reason why you can't do this. After all, outliner is just really a very thick paint!

@@GlassPainting awesome! Thanks for letting me know! Will give it a go

No, there is no need.

I find raising the outliner "normally" gives a smoother line than laying it on the glass. I don't think the outliner is the issue, just the applicator.

@@GlassPainting It all depends on how you cut the opening and you can use a fine brass outliner in the tube. I find I can do the smallest details in eyes like tiny eye lashes .

Yes that should be fine. I've always assumed if it can stand up to a dish washer then it should stand up to the weather.

@@GlassPainting perfect. I will bake it before putting it outdoor!!

@@GlassPainting What do you use to clean your brushes?

Personally I have had an issue with any although I've avoided expensive crystal :-) (One person has said in a comment that they had an issue with some glass turning white!). The trick it to put the glass in when the oven is cold. Let it warm up gradually. The same when you turn the oven off, let it cool down slowly. Don't forget to make adjustments for fan assisted ovens!

​@@GlassPainting I just came across your site and am enjoying it. I am a hot glass artist in the US and can offer some insight on “types of glass and heating/cooling”. Warm glass work is usually done in a kiln with electronic controlling to carefully heat the glass SLOWLY and cool down SLOWLY. I’m talking a 24hr period to heat and then cool. Glass worked by warm glass artists gets heated between 1200-1500°F so it can take the heat, the concern is in how fast a rate. The problem with conventional ovens is consistency of heat across the surface of the glass and how quickly the ovens coils are heating. Other than temp, there is NO CONTROL on the RATE of heating in a household oven. Also, some parts of the oven will be hotter than others. Making the glass hot in some areas and cooler in others. That is what causes cracking. I HIGHLY SUSPECT the prior commentor where her “glass” turned white… had plexiglass and not real glass. Especially as she was using the “glass” from very cheap frames. Some plexiglass can almost behave and look like glass so if someone was a beginner they may not notice the difference. I’ve been working in art glass for over 30 years and have NEVER had glass turn white like she described when heated. But that is exactly what plexiglass would do when heated since it’s actually plastic. . GLASS PAINTING is correct but I would take his advice further… . Place glass in a COLD oven then SLOWLY HEAT. I set a lower temp initially, let the oven heat up to, say 200°F and then sit for 20 minutes. Then raise the heat again to working temp (whatever temp the directions say) and proceed as directed. I do the same for cooling. Set oven to 200F sit at that temp for about 30-45 min, then turn off the oven (LEAVE CLOSED) and let it cool on its own. Don’t open the oven door till temp is below 100F. This does take overall longer but is less likely to end up with cracked glass. The temps and times above are for example only, glass can still crack. The concept is to heat and cool the glass over extended time and give it time for all of the glass surface to heat up and cool down to avoid stress in the glass that causes cracking. I know it’s delayed, but I hope this helps others seeing your channel today.

As far as I know that can't be done because, as you have pointed out, they have different bases. One is waterbased (the 160) and the others are solvent based. However the Prisme and Moon paints can be mixed with the Vitrial colours which share the same base.

Thanks!! I have both Vitrial paints and Vitrea 160 paints. As I run out of Vitrea I am slowly replacing it with the Vitrial . I absolutely love these paints, and your tutorials have been quite helpful!!

Thank you. Must admit I prefer the Vitrail paints as well. You can get so many different effects by mixing the different types. I tend to only use the Vitrea when I need to make something which is dishwasher proof.

I haven't yet but I do intend to give it a go. I have heard of people getting good results with it.