I have seen a few pedalboard builders mount a layer of 1/4 or thinner plywood (painted black) over the top of pedal train boards to get rid of the gaps allowing perfect pedal placement for less rocking back and forth and a solid Velcro connection. Thanks for the uploads and great work as always Lyle.
Loving your videos, always some tidbit that’s helpful! 👍🏼👍🏼 I have those flat plugs but only did a few then put it aside for other projects. That little tip about bending the ground tap up made my day. Lol Here’s something: instead of the pedal as a plug-holder, take a piece of 2x4, lay flat and drill a few ¼” holes in it. Very stable!
I know its not the most common/practical tool to own, but perhaps consider a Riv-Nut tool for the mounting type situations? I use it all the time on customer car builds for creating engine bay/anywhere where there isn't a captive nut on the chassis! Did exactly this on my new board to allow me to simply unbolt my PS whenever I need to, without the hassle of a single use hole/screw!
Perfectly timed video! I'm wiring up a board this week. It's always interesting to see the nuance others use when doing all these things... The twisting of cable ends always seems like overkill, but it's so nice when the cable lay flat because of the attention to detail. Thanks for bringing us along!
I just recommended you and Brad to my buddy in Phoenix. He’s got a small studio in his house and I’m sure he’ll love your content too. All the best chief!
Although I've tested plenty of cables for continuity and shorts with a multimeter, I find that using a self-contained, battery powered cable-test device such as the Whirlwind cable-tester I've had for ages is more convenient, because you can wiggle the cables where they enter the plugs while they're plugged into the tester, and the LED's will blink or flash on and off if you have any shorts or loss of continuity.
At some point you were saying the Keeley halo had too much volume (and maybe that’s for guitar store folks) after a couple of weeks with it I firmly believe the pedal is meant to be used with a volume control. You can really change the effect, more like swells. It is radically different than anything else out there. Just my 2 cents. 😎❤️🎶 Cheers
I too (am not a fan) of the Mini-pedals. Your knowledge, explanation & attention to detail is amazing. Great stuff. I love Pedalboard-builds. Always something to learn.
Thank you for the patch cable demonstration. I’ve tried making my own patch cables and failed miserably (since I’m new to soldering) but I think I wanna try again now.
I'll just chime in here with a comment about adhesive issues. Most pedals and certainly a coated thing like the Pedaltrain, have some kind of residue on the surface that affects the bond of sticky things like velcro and cable tie anchors. I get great results by cleaning with alcohol any location that going to get a sticky pad of any kind. It makes a big difference.
Nice! The only suggestion I have is to use 3M Dual Lock on everything rather than standard or even heavy duty Velcro. The Dual Lock stuff is incredible!
@@PsionicAudio - hi Lyle, I don’t mean to be obtuse, but I’ve moved and changed pedals with the the Dual Lock many times. Just a quick twist and it pops off. My experience anyway
@@PsionicAudio - Agreed! It actually comes off pretty easy with a butter knife or a automotive trim tool to break the substantial bite. Love your channel!
Old disabled pedal to hold the jack while soldering - interesting idea but wobbly. I've got you one better on this one - I use a small piece of pine shelving with wholes drilled in it for 1/4", male XLR and 9 volt power connectors. More stable - More good. Thanks. 🙂
I have a chunk of 2 by 4 with male and female XLR and RCA jack's mounted to it, from the days when I was installing and repairing nightclub sound systems.
What is your opinion on the four cable method? I’m looking forward to part 2 to see how you handle the voltage and amperage requirements for the different pedals.
Nice neat job. Lovely. Just a quick question… I have some pedals with rubber feet which I am loathe to move in case I cannot replace if ever I come to sell or px the pedal. Screwed in feet are ok but the sticky tape/glue mounted or grommet type are an issue. Any suggestions for mounting pedals with rubber pads? Thanks. ;))
Do you have an opinion on switching power supply's vs linear? Any difference in their ability to power pedals? Seems like many people say no but I'm not totally convinced.
If you answer amp questions;;;: an Acoustic B450 210 bass combo and the fan runs continuously...I'm thinking it's not supposed to run all the time...easy, inexpensive fix? thoughts? thanks in advance for any thoughts....
Guess I'm old and out of it......I'm a bassist, and the only effect I use is the occasional piece of foam underneath my strings at the bridge. Cool stuff, though.
You should never ever ,ever ,ever get a Compressor ,a Pre-amp ,a Boost ,a Chorus ,a Fuzz ,a envelope filter then ! cuz you'll probably not be able to live with your self .But if you ever want to play any songs from the 70s ,80s ,90s and the present you'll need all of these .
I'm getting ready to build a pedal board. When it comes to power supplies, is there a noticeable difference between well-known companies like Truetone and lesser-known companies like Donner? Is it a case of "you get what you pay for"? (Truetone 1-Spot 7 = $132. Donner DP-1 = $40) Thanks in advace.
He ain't lyin' for $20 more you could get a MXR iso brick even better more inputs ,plus it's smaller .Side note don't get get there DC brick it's not isolated .
I have a question, and I would be grateful if someone could help me out with an answer. I heard recently that it is not recommended to use a tube amp and a solid state amp in stereo using an ABY pedal. I think they said it has something to do with impedance. I like to play two amps at once in stereo using an effects processor along with a Morley ABY footswitch. At the moment, I use both Fender and Marshall tube amps. I would like to replace the Fender with an Orange Super Crush 100 head and cabinet. The Super Crush 100 is a solid state amplifier. Can anyone tell me if doing so will create noise issues?
Probably less noisy .I run wet/dry Fender Twin & DSL also have a AC-15 & 15w 5150 set up .But when I need some thing noiseless my Orange Crush & Peavy classic is what I use Pro 60 is quiet as a mouse .
Been using George L’s for years with zero issue. Just gotta test em before application cause if you’re not consistent in putting them together there can be some loss
