Awesome example of what I should be looking for. I have always struggled with what I should be seeing through my peep. This is really going to be a game changer!!
I recently switched over to a colored peep (purple) from a black one and it improved my groups. I find that having that contrast against the green on my sight housing definitely helped me.
I’m a little confused… is he saying that when he lines his peep with the sight housing, he’s lining the bottom inner edge of his peep with the bottom inner edge of the sight housing? I’ve always been told to make a concentric circle with the peep equally around the housing.
I have been using a tube style peep so I can change my peep size. Last week I was at full draw on a moose. It was last light and everything blurred out on me and I couldn’t get a clean shot so I had to let down. It was right at last light. I was wondering if using a regular peep might of helped by letting more light in. I also am unable to shoot with my left eye open. Any tips and advice would be appreciated. NOCK ON!!!!
Hi John. When looking through the peep do you leave a little bit of room/gap between the peep and the scope housing so you’ll have some daylight around the scope housing? When doing this will reduce accuracy? That’s how I run mine because I’ve heard that in a hunting situation specially in dark timber this will help one see the target (deer, Elk) better. Or you just don’t leave a gap/space for daylight between the peep and the scope housing? Thanks for the video.
How to prevent arrow from hitting sight, im at 100 yards with room left on my site tape. I have not smacked my sight with fletchings would like to know max range with out doing that. I believe i heard you explain it but don’t remember where or what you said. Thanks for your time
One thing I’ve noticed when I draw, and I twist my wrist to put the back of my hand to my face. ( like I would like to do)The arrow flight out of the bow flings the arrow to the side as it leaves the bow. So I make sure I keep my palm facing the ground and don’t twist the D loop or the arrow flight out of the bow is all messed up. I’ve never heard anyone talk about this.
I had the same issue. Now I put my index knuckle against my jaw bone and let my middle finger LIGHTLY touch my face. I focus on flat palm and even pressure on each finger for the release, so it's not torqued left to right. I know I'm getting tired when I start getting low left fliers, and I have to focus back on my draw hand/arm.
Assuming your face contact (and beard!), arrow vanes, and other variables aren’t the problem. Try switching your D loop material from the standard BCY 24 (2mm) that most shops use to BCY 23 (1.6mm), it’s way softer and as a bonus much tougher and will last a long time. Much more forgiving to torque.
I walk back, shoot, mark my sight tape on masking tape. Its simple. Doesnt matter how the sight looks like, ive shot each distance and marked it that way. This seems like its important for people who print sight tapes. I encourage people just make their own sight tapes by either moving targets to each distance and marking it on masking tape or walk back shoot a target with masking tape.
About 20% of my sight housing is covered on the right side by the riser and cables. Is this something you tolerate or do you always make sure you can see the entire circle. Bows shooting great just don’t have a full circle up front to match…
That difference in space on the lines at 90 yds was 4 yds where yardage marks are further apart wouldnt it be more dramatic at closer yardage where that same distance in the color rings is more dramatic where the sight marks are closer together instead of 20 it would be like 27
Jon, you and I had basically this same conversation when I shot your sticker at 99 yards at TAC in Utah a couple of years ago. You made the comment "You nailed it! You aren't even excited about it?" Do you remember my reply?
I will never buy a PSE bow again. I have a PSE embark that I bought new last August and a week ago I had new strings put on by my local bow shop and they noticed the cable bar was warped and my arrow fletching we’re hitting my cables I reached out to PSE and all they had to say is I had to buy a new cable slide bar. This bow isn’t even two years old I shouldn’t have to buy nothing how about John Dudley and PSE stand behind their product I hope they see this message don’t waste your money on there garbage
