@@shadows555555 agree there, IPA dilutes the oils and that can then cause the oils to be spread out all over the build plate once it evaporates. Cleaning with a good dishsoap rinsing with water and then drying seems to work better in removing and not spreading the contaminants.
I wonder if cleaning with soap or detergent would have made a difference? I normally use IPA on my PEI and WhamBam plates, but is things stop sticking, cleaning with Dawn dishwashing liquid fixes it thoroughly.
I actually like the textured finished of PEI sheets. I think the slightly rough surface helps hide minor flaws and just looks appealing. If they could do more interesting things with rougher textures, that might be interesting, but not the very smooth sheets.
dont clean with IPA. I found that these sheets dont work well when cleaned with 99% IPA. I get hardly any prints to stick correctly when i did this. Just clean with warm water and soap. Cheers for the videos.
Mirrors my experience. Textured PEI best for PLA, ABS and PETG (I even use it for TPU), PEO second - I use it when I want that fancy surface. I also like to use a common soap bar (not liquid) to wash the sheets, in my experience it leaves the most rough feel, which is what leads to the best adhesion. I don't remember any failed prints with this combo. PEY is bullshit that looks cool on pictures.
One question I have had for a while but haven't been able to find a conclusive answer to: wouldn't the higher bed temperatures required for printing ABS/ASA would eventually demagnetize the magnetic bed? I've been slowly converting an ender-3 for ABS/ASA printing and I have found a nice PEI bed, but I'm reluctant to put the magnetic sticker on the aluminium bed heat spreader since heat and magnets don't mix well.
@@bami2 I can understand you reluctance, but there are magnets that work well above 120 degrees Celsius. They will not have the best attraction force, but acceptable for this application. For example a neodymium cylinder magnet of 10mm diameter with 5mm thickness has 4kg of attraction force, and X1C magnetic board has way less attraction force . At least in the case of Bambulab X1 carbon the bed is magnetic and ABS/ASA have to have around 120 deg for first layer. Beware, I'm new in this 3D printing world :)
@@bami2 vinyl magnets lose force at 110c, but they recover when cooled. if u notice significant permanent loss in magnetic force u can actually disassemble bed and put in in fridge. if u need higher temps u should mill bed and glue in SmCo magnets up to 200c.
@@viorelgheorghe5655 I'm not sure what kind of magnet I have, it's one of those creality branded flexible ones with some gluestrip you stick to the Y gantry with a PEI coated spring steel thing you put on the magnet to print on. I'm pretty sure it's not a neodymium though so I'll just have to try it and see if it gets damaged, just not looking forward to when I have to remove the magnet again.
My favorite is two-sided PEI, one side smooth and another textured. Small (less than 1-2 cm2 -> adhesive to help) and tidy prints on smooth side, the rest on textured side :)
The patterns are nice and everything, but I prefer completed prints over pretty patterns. If adhesion was close to PEI or PEX I would give them a try but almost everyone I have seen use these has commented on the lack of adhesion.
I like textured PEI the most. It is just the most reliable surface I know of. Garolite/FR4 is said to be realy good as well, but I didn't try it so far. But everything I use sticks to it and everything gets off too. Maybe some filaments won't work with it and need some special surface? But I don't know wich one that would be. So far I only worked with the commonly used stuff (PLA, TPU, PETG, PCTG, ABS, ASA). What I like the most about the textured PEI is the appearance of the surface. In my opinion it is great, I like the looks of it. And it is possible to completely hide the linegaps without squishing to much, which would result in quite a big elephant foot. On thos flat and shiny surfaces you can hide them nicely too, but they are never completely gone. As a secondary surface I use PEX from WhamBam which creates a mirrorlike surface on the print. But I only use this when I want to mate two parts on the bottom surface and having a clean edge.
My textured PEI from Juupine started having awful adhesion after 30 prints. Yes it's been cleaned thoroughly with IPA and dish soap + hot water. The fancy beds are difficult to print with PLA, but are surprisingly good with TPU.
I don't have experience with the PEY yet, but I've used the PEO extensively so far and it's been working great for me, I mainly print in PETG, but even for PLA it's been good. Just keeping it clean as possible. Mine needs to be replaced at this point because it seems like its de-laminating and it reflects into the print - you're right, anything that's on there will 'bake' into the surface of the print. But, adhesion is still no problem. I also use the engineering plate in BambuSlicer because I've found it's more similar thickness to that plate.
I bought the Ideaformer ones from Ali Express for my X1 Carbon, they were less than a third of the price of these and excellent quality, they just released some new holographic patterns too.
What's the actual materials of these PEwhatever? I believe only PEI actually means something (Polyetherimide, to be exact). Rest are the same material, I think, but with pattern on top.
These plates have different thicknesses, so if you didn't calibrate the z-offset after each change, it's no wonder the print didn't stick. Or, at least, bed type, from textured to smooth, in Bambu Slicer.
@@uhu4677 By selecting the calibration options, the printer only performs bad calibration and not z-offset!!! Textured PEI plates are much thicker, cuz they are TEXTURED. That's why nothing stuck, to any of the sides, of this board with a smooth, shiny H1H surfaces on both sides!!! Unfortunately, the lack of z-offset calibration or at least changes bed type from textured to smooth in Bambu Slicer is a disqualifying error for this test. Besides, it is clearly visible in these close-up photos, that the distance between nozzle and bed is very large and printer prints in the air and not on a table!!!
the one that didn't work properly, worked ok for me on x1c when I upped the bed temp by 10C :) I hoped you are actually going to test bed adhesion with other materials directly on bed (no stick/spray..) so regular PLA, PETG normal and translucent, ABS, ASA, PC, PA6... and of course TPU
Got a fun thing for you to try with these sheets, I got one of them but with the carbon fiber pattern and it's incredible with... Nylon. No one is talking about it for some reason.
Yes! I had the same issue with some old taulman nylon that wouldn't stick to the bambu PEI plates, I tried my fractal pattered sheet out of frustration and everything just worked!
Thank you for this comment! I would love to start printing with nylon eventually, but I'm really worried about bed adhesion and I'm not sure which plate to use! I own the double sided PEO (diamond shaped) and PET (carbon fiber) plate, will that work out fine, you think?
I bought a magnetic sticker w/ PEI plate 4yr ago. The magnetic sticker had a very bad smell because the manufacturer (Creality) used a low temperature adhesive. I now use glass plate with hairspray as release agent. I now have a core XY printer so I don't think about the weight of the glass plate.
Not had great results w PEY? The textured (looks like carbon fiber) type, doesnt stick well. The gold PEI.. i had good results w (the other side of PEY)
Prefer PEI ; the textured side as it leaves a nice textured finish on the bottom of my prints and if at correct temp ,prints stick really well. With PLA on my FL Sun v400 I set temp at 60-65 . I have never needed glue .
I have quite a few different sheets. PEI, PEO, PEY etc. I have almost all the ones you have but mine are not the same company. I mainly use PEI sheets for small prints or if I am printing with tpu , petg etc. But I do like those specialized sheets. It makes such a beautiful pattern and it works very well. My favorite ones so far are the ones made by Energetic. They are a bit more expensive however the quality is better. I didn't notice a smell with mine though. And I have had no bed adhesion issues when used on my K1. I also use them sometimes on my other printers. I am not sure why you had those issues. You may have gotten a bad sheet somehow.
I have a carbon pattern plate. No adhesion with ABS at all. I have tried many setting without success. PLA is having adhesion, but the surface is not nice. It's like the material flow rate is too low. Not like your prints. The bottom has deep printing lines and clearance between them. I became tired to make more trials....
I experience poor bed adhesion with the textured PEI sheet supplied with the Bambu Labs P1S. PLA, PETG, TPU or ABS will not stick unless glue stick or hairspray is first applied to the build plate.
I have 99.85% success rate after 300+ prints with those PEO etc sheets. Set the slicer to texture sheets because it sets the nozzle closer, 65c and clean with windex. and i coat the plate with a nano polymar ;) Theses plates donot like ABS/ASA. It will peel the coating off.
PEY is perfect for TPU, as seen in my videos. For PETG, I use the following setting: nozzle temp first layer 250℃, rest 230℃; bed temperature (very important!!): 110℃ - first layer, 90℃ rest; first layer speed: 10 mm/s; acc: 50 mm/s2. For the light beam sheet (sometimes called H1H sheet), I use 115℃ for the first layer. Check my short videos to see how they work
No on Ideaformer, absolutely on Juupine beds. If your level & Z offset are good it's a whole new world honestly! Tested on a Bambu, Flsunn, & Sovol. Bought from Temu, Aliexpress, & Amazon. Pei textured- the standard, it works and sticks the most, I prefer actually flat though as filament can stay in the grooves. Pet carbon looking- I love that stuff! All 3 of my printers now use that as standard! Peo- I like it, but the pattern is best for larger models IMO. I had one of the stary ones (Ideaformer) but it came off on the first 2 prints so it got returned. Another one (Pet) from them got returned because it melted on the first layer with a proper offset... next to the bead of filament it was deformed. Yes I peeled off the protective film, it's too satisfying to pass on. I'll have Pey, H1H, & variations of others coming soon, ish.
I bought some of the Ideaformer beds for my X1 Carbon and they work just fine, however, some of my cheaper PLA filaments would not stick to them well without LAC but stuck to my Ender 5 Plus machines beds just fine
I've been using these occasionally since the new year and they are surprisingly useful to have around. I've used certain nylons that just wouldn't stick to any of the bambu pei sheets I have, but they adhered fairly well to the fractal sheet. In general just useful to have around for any material that doesn't like to stick to PEI. Information of forums seems to suggest these are all polyethylene based surfaces, the last letter is probably tacked on by the manufacturer to differentiate the sheets texture. For example PE-Y (Polyethylene-Y) and PE-O. They work like a holographic card, with microscopic sized structures reflecting and refracting light in interesting ways. The microtexture transfers to the print.
take it off smooth texture PEI/high temp plate, will not stick correct with PEY/PEO etc change it to textured PEI plate only you will find the prints will stick better i have them i tested them and found out they stick better textured PEI plate try that bud
Getting a fancy patterned sheet is on my wish list for someday, but very low priority for me. Textured PEI is IMO a great material, I generally don't use glue stick and it works great. For my MK4 I have found that Prusa's textured sheet is best for PETG, and off brand is best for PLA. I also have a smooth PEI sheet, and that one I definitely need to use glue stick for materials like PETG, TPU, PC, etc.
I learned my lesson. I also use glue stick for TPU on textured PEI. Without glue, it worked fine until one time when it didn’t and tore a chunk off the texture.
