I realize that you posted this quite a while ago but just wanted to say that my heater is performing exactly like what you described and I am ordering an igniter today. Thank you for taking the time to post such a detailed video!
Ordered the part on amazon for about $50 (pool store wanted $99 for OEM), installed in 20mins and now I got some hot in my hot tub! Thanks for making a very detailed video!
Hi - I wanted to say this video SOLVED my Pentair Propane heating issue and saved my summer - I was shocked when i opened my heater - We installed it 3 years ago on my pool - we never had one and we did over the liner and some retaining walls - we basically rebuilt our pool - but for 3 years this heater performed amazing and it died near the end of last season and I figured I would fix it next summer - I browsed this video and followed the steps - good thing I opened the unit to my surprise - Inside I found a nest of leaves and debris - man it looked like my new heater was rotting - then I opened the control box and found two dead chipmunks that chewed threw all my 24v wires - man What a repair - but the hardest thing I had was getting my igniter out - one of the 1/2' nuts lock froze and I had to break the post - I have a metal shop in my barn and quickly welded a new bolt to the hood and reseated the igniter - the igniter I got from Amazon and it came with a 1 time use only gasket (I thought it was like made out of cotton? seemed very flimsy but the igniter went in just like the video said - the unit was so cheap I saved a ton - the gas company was gonna charge me 250 to do the work I did it all in like 4 hrs - it was quite a day and I enjoyed a night swim with a warm pool - Thanks guys! this a 10 star! two thumbs up video - any DIY'er that owns a pool and propane heater should catalog and bookmark this video
Hi there - great video which identified the problem. BUT - there's water in the combustion chamber! I assume that's really wrong, do you have a video or recommendation to fix?
Hi. Ours is this way only it doesn’t do 3 attempts. The first attempt it kicks a breaker /circuit. I had a trap at man freak and run when he smelled the gas. I believe we have a mouse ruined wire but need help!!
My problem is that it lights, only stays on for a few seconds maybe 20-30 and makes a loud noise . shuts down and service heater light comes on. Not sure what it could be, any ideas. It is a mastertemp 250
You mentioned in the video that cycling 3 times and kicking in the service heater light is usually a bad igniter, but what if it does that same thing but the igniter is good? I used my Pentair 125 pool heater 1 day and it worked fine. It fired, heated up to temperature, turned itself off. When the pool water dropped below the set point it tried to turn on and now I am getting exactly what symptoms you show in your video. I checked the igniter and I have 59.9 ohms. Gas pressure is good. I hear the 3 clicks in the gas valve but do not smell gas during ignition sequence. Any suggestions?
I watched this video and then troubleshot my heater. I thought it was the igniter, maybe it still is so I ordered one. Then I got an air flow sensor fault so I ordered that. I removed the igniter while the heater was trying to light and it was red hot so I assumed it was good. I installed the new afs a minute ago and still no ignition. I still may need the igniter. What else could it be?
Rats loved to get inside these thing. There is a rubber tube that goes from your afs switch to the fan area. If rats or anything chewed a hole in it, you can change the switches all day long but with a hole in the tube it still won't light.
Installed a new Pentair 250 today and it wouldn't ignite. Checked for voltage to the igniter and got 60 VAC during the ignition cycle. Was going to condemn the ICM but fortunately I read the troubleshooting guide. It said "The ICM will convert 240VAC/120VAC to an intermittent pulse to the igniter. Digital meters don't read this type of signal well. Analog meters do a better job." The igniter was bad. So don't rely on voltage readings to the igniter.
Any idea what the normal resistance range is on these igniters? I have the exact same symptoms on a Pentair Mastertemp 125, but instead of an open circuit, I'm showing 100 ohms.
I’m having the same problem with a master temp 400 that’s only a month old, but I’m getting a 128 and r14 code I’ve change the water temp sensor that goes in the pvc and the temp sensor for the air but still I’m getting the same codes They also have a jandy rs control pad in the house I’ve reset the value on that pad to get rid of the existing programs And I think it reset the temp values also Would that be a reason why the heaters is not igniting?