Hi there! As Spanish fly fisherman I can say I'm proud of your perdigon tying skills! That is a really good perdigon perfectly tied. Thin, shiny and with a contrast close to the bead. There is just one small detail I wanted to point out, tails. We are shortening the length of them, let's say half hook shank. Doing so we increase our hooking rates! Tight lines!
Appreciate it, Roger! Can't have a better compliment! I completely see what your are saying about the tail. Makes complete sense to me. Thanks for the tip. Tight lines!
Half insane, it is just less “stuff” to get in the way of getting in the trout’s mouth. You won’t have a longer tail knocking the hook off track…if that makes sense.
I tie my Perdigon much like the early original patterns where there is more bulk behind the bead and it tappers down quickly making the shape more conical. Since water moving past the bead head leaves a slight 'void' directly behind it this does not effect how quickly it will disperse water as it drops down. The evolution to your trimmer fly seems to be a much easier and cleaner tie. Fantastic video! You are a very good teacher with clear instructions. I'm planning on evaluating my Euro box to include this style of Perdigon. Thanks for such a great presentation.
Not sure you will see this comment as the video s a couple years old but this was fantastic. What a great lesson. I am just getting back into fly tying and catching up on the new trends and such. Was just with a guide on Friday and like you he had boxes dedicated to this style of fly. Found a few examples at my fly shop today and bought them and the materials for several different colors. With your instructions, I have many f the materials or can substitute. And as you said this was so much more than just a single pattern, you gave us intermediate tiers (I may not quite be intermediate) the tools to tie many different patterns. Thank you. And yes I am now subscribed.
Appreciate the comment, Garry! Glad the video was helpful. Good luck with your tying and Euro Nymphing. Soon you will have the materials stacking up! Thanks so much for the sub. Tight lines to you!
Hello 🙃 Your instructional vids are da bomb! Very well presented, clear, very informative, provides background/context, great techniques! Please make more of these for us newbies. Thank you, blessings, and tight lines!
This is a great tutorial. I was hesitant to watch it; concern lingered about whether it would add value or clutter the understanding of tying perdigon flies. It definitely added value! One of the curiosities for me is how often model building techniques (planes, trains and ships) carry over into fly tying.
Just watched the video again. You did a great job of explaining technique, materials and proportions. They are key to being a good fly tier/fisherman. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.
I'd still taper my perdigons ever so slightly, it's just a confidence thing to me. After seeing this video, I'll try to not exaggerate the taper. Thanks 👍
Fly rider, confidence is huge when it comes to what you have on the end of your line. If it works for you, than that is great. Tie some up this way and see how it works then you might have confidence in these as well. Tight lines to you!
Great tie great instruction- but the super slim perdigon is not the only way it is being tied and fished. The Spanish also tie some realllllly chunky heavy flies including some with the tungsten tear drop thorax beads, as well as the super thin ones. . I generally prefer this style, but with a SLIGHTLY thicker triangular taper back especially in larger sizes anyway. Multiple ways to tie them- however you tie they fish really well. It's becoming on par with a walts worm and a frenchie for most euro anglers these days, and for those adopting the newer mono rigs, probably even more so. They can fish them at a distance with ease. Great video- hope to see more!
Appreciate it! I agree, you can certainly tie them thicker if that’s what your prefer. I’m convinced that whatever gives you confidence makes you fish better. I am familiar with the Spaniards using the tear drop tungsten flies. These are definitely my go to bugs for sure. Thanks for watching.
Ever try just the bead, the hook and some thread? It's basically a bead-type egg fly with something on the hook shank we call a body. Try egg colors for the bead, like yellow or orange. And use just ONE fiber for the tail, or none. Try it!
Perdigons sone right. On put the wing case on first then the bone dry so it is all encased in it. I actually keep mine even thinner than yours which is hard to do but I do it. Probably one of the thinnest perdigons I have seen tied other than my own
Your advice about keeping the fly thin makes sense; but the bead seems so big in proportion. Doesn't that go counter to keeping it thin? thanks.You are a very good teacher! I enjoy your videos.
Appreciate the comment, Richard. You are correct about the bead, but there have been tons of studies done on beads on flies. It could easily be taken for the air bubble that forms on nymphs as they emerge or it could simply be an attraction. Either way-the fish move to them. Also, having the head larger, then tapering down to the tail gives it a “torpedo” shape to shoot to the bottom quicker. Hope this helps and thanks for watching. Tight lines.
Great video, very helpful tips. I, too, tied "fat" perdigons and have now tied some by these instructions. I won't throw the fatties away yet, because they catch a heck of a lot of fish! Might be more a matter of personal style and taste between these styles than a difference in effectiveness?
Thank you, Tom. Appreciate it. A lot of flies we put on the end of our line simply fish better if you have confidence in them. Ultimately, beauty (confidence) is in the eye of the beholder. You are correct...you can catch them on fat flies and it is a matter of personal preference. But, in my experience, slimmer bodies that represent the profile of the bugs in the water simply fish better.
ODTB, do you ever do anything to prevent perdigons from unraveling from the back end? Despite carefully applied bone dry, and sometimes two layers of it, mine very often begin to come apart at the tail end after 10 or so fish. On the underside and on the sides, I usually apply my resin along the body and then back onto the hook very slightly (thinking this will add durability), while on the top I stop as close as I can to where the CDL emerges from the tinsel wraps, so as not to get resin on the CDL. But I can't seem to prevent the unraveling. Thanks for any thoughts.
JP, I really can't think of anything. I coat mine just like you see in the videos. Mine usually last longer than 10 fish, but if yours are falling apart after 10-that's not such a bad problem to have! The only thing I can think of is perhaps your light isn't curing them enough. You may need new batteries. Hope this helps.
Just a rambling thought and question. On a video somewhere on the internet a guy said it is the bead that the trout keys in on and the rest of the fly doesn't make much difference. When I think about it, as the perdition is lead toward the trout the thin body is hidden behind the bead so that is all the fish can see. If that logic is true then all you would need is a bead on a bare hook. Just for fun I am going to try that this spring. Do you think there is any validity to that line of thought? Thanks. Gregg. Love your videos!
Gregg, I'm in the camp that it can definitely be an attractant for sure-but on plenty of bugs, they naturally blend in. I use primarily copper and silver and a few black). Copper for me looks very natural and after a few dunks in the water it will dull out considerably. Silver the same. There have been many studies where trout could take the bead as an air bubble that nymphs form when they are getting ready to emerge. I try not to overthink it-but I'm sticking with tied flies! Appreciate you watching!
Thanks for this nice instructional video. I have one question: A jig hook will ride up side down. Why do you suggest a wing case on the down side of the fly? Fish will never see...
Appreciate you watching! It’s a great question...most people assume that all flies ride parallel to the stream bottom, but straight shank hooks hang straight down. When you use a jig hook they ride at more of a 45 degree angle and the wing case will come at them first. It’s more of a trigger. But honestly bugs tumble all around in the drift anyway, so really it doesn’t make a huge difference. It’s visually more appealing to the eye. Hope this helps.
@@OldDominionTroutBum Thanks for your answer. I also think that it's first an foremost more appealing to the eye. Interessting side note: Brooks observations regarding stonefly fishing showed that trout would shy away from a fly with a light underside and darker back. He reasoned that such behaviour was the result of the fly tumbling in the current and flash its light side to the trout which will usually not happen with the naturals. However Perdigon nymphs imitate smaller insects which probably do not have such a stable drift as a big natural stoneflies and the dark spot of the wing case (and with it the flashing effect) is not so obvious to the fish in general.
Hey Aidan. Always a great question. It's a common misconception the flies ride parallel to the bottom, when in fact, they don't. A traditional hook hangs straight down and jig hooks hang at more of a 45 degree angle. So when you put the wing case on the "bottom" of the fly it actually shows first to the fish. All that being said, sometimes it really doesn't matter because nymphs get tossed and turned as they tumble down the stream. So when a fish sees a nymph it could be right side up or even upside down. Hope this helps.
Great lesson - thanks for all the pointers - your success with these flies shows they work. How important is it to use CDL? wouldn't 3 stiff Grizzly fibers work just as well? Thx.
Thank you, Ed. Really appreciate it. Other fibers, like Grizzly, will absolutely work. CDL is just super durable. That’s what makes it so great for tails. Good luck with spinning some up.
Cory, since watching your videos this fall I have been tying and fishing euro type nymphs with the hooks and materials I have. Fishing with my 8' rod trying to stay tight to flies, keeping fly line off the water, I have had good success in certain fast runs sometimes employing a split shot. Meanwhile I have a lot of traditional subsurface flies like pheasant tails, hare's ear nymphs and the like in my fly box. Do you ever fish traditional nymphs and is there a place for them in euro nymphing? Thanks, Sam
Sam, I weight all of my flies with tungsten beads from 2.0 up to 4.0. I personally don’t use split shot, but I did years ago. You can use split shot with a drop shot rig and put your traditional flies on the tags. Also, you can use a weighted fly on the bottom and put your unweighted on a tag. Another suggestion would be to use just one unweighted traditional fly and have split shot 6 inches or so above. But for me personally, I like my weight to be in the flies. (As do most pure euro nymphers) Hope this helps.
Hi Cory, you mentioned putting the brushes that you use for the UV gloss but I could not find your “Description” area.. I would appreciate their Amazon location. I’m assuming that unless you put the brush tips away from the UV lights, they will not harden up but any methods to keep them fresh & pliable or just buy a bunch to be disposable?? Thanks in advance......
The description area is the drop down arrow on the far right side of the title. If you look at the last line you will find it in the where I give the fly recipe. You are correct that they don’t harden. I just stick mine upright on my bench for a while until it gets a little hard over time, then I throw it away. They come in a pack of 500 so you will have a bunch for a while. Hope this helps.
Thanks., Hugh! I use the brush multiple times. It will last a day or two (or three) before it starts to dry out. That’s the beauty of the amount that comes in a package. You will be able to tie countless perdigons with them. The black resin is Gulff. Hope this helps.
Thanks ODT. Love the Euro nymphin' but have yet to catch a fish on a perdigon, probably because mine are horrible. Do you have a top 3 (or 2 more since this would be #1), perdigons you like for spring/summer?
Some of my favs (along with the one in the video) are 1. quildigon in golden olive with a copper bead. 2. A Hends 233 krystal flash (dark brown w green shine...it comes out a dark olive) w a copper bead. 3. Also like a UV blue krystal flash w a silver bead. Appreciate you watching Jason!
CDL is the best because it is narrow (also tough) and cuts quicker through the water. The reason you put the black wing case on top is because during the drift the fish will see it first. Most people don’t realize but flies hang straight down in the water off your tippet, they don’t ride parallel to the stream bottom. With a jig hook it will be presented to them first. Plus bugs tumble around during the drift. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching and commenting!
To keep the profile of the bug. The thin tail will cut through the water, it’s not hindering the sink rate. You certainly can tie without, but I like to keep the silhouette of the bug. Thanks for watching, Paul.
I have Krystal Flash, but only UV Pearl, Purple and Orange. Do you think that will work, I am sure it is just a variant, but figured I would ask. Thanks for any advice!
Purple is great ( I would use a black thread underneath or a gray) Orange is one of my favorites...Called a Butano. Use Fluorescent Orange thread as the under body and put the orange flash on top. Finish with a black collar (you can just use a black sharpie to color it instead of switching threads) Silver bead. It is a fantastic fly.
@@OldDominionTroutBum Priceless info. Thank you! I am excited to tie them all. I bought some specifically for that, but I guess didn't get exactly the right recipe for the original. Still should be fun to try the other options.
Thanks, rjf. Appreciate it! I use both 16/0 veevus, 8/0 Uni and UTC 70 a ton. All of those threads can be flattened, but I feel UTC can be flattened the best. That’s why a prefer it with Perdigons. Hope this helps.
Thanks a lot for your prompt reply ! I just figured that the Veevus 16/0 would be the flattest, I’ll out the 70 denier with a spin. I always find your videos give great suggestions beyond just tying recipes !!
Cory, wondering when you do this in blue what kind of thread do you use under the tinsel? I don't have a thin blue thread, and I'm wondering if I should go with a lighter thread (like tan), if that would bring out the UV blue tinsel some more? (And then I'd go to either black or orange for the collar). Any thoughts? As always, appreciate your videos!
Scott, I use a dark gray UTC 70 for the thread. Any medium to dark gray will work. I also tie in a small red collar behind a Silver bead. The blue perdigon is one that I use quite a bit. It’s a good one!
Parker, the resin hardens the fly, adds a sheen to it, and makes it much more durable. It would fish well without it but after one or two fish it would fall apart. Appreciate you watching!
Aren’t you placing the wing case on the wrong side of the fly? This is tied on a jig hook which fishes with the hook bend/point up but you put the wing case on the side of the fly which is down when fished. What a I missing?
This question is always asked, Darcy. If you look at a traditional hook and how it rides in the water, you will see that is actually hangs straight down. It doesn’t ride perpendicular to the stream bottom-it also twists and turns with the current. Sometimes the fish sees the wing case, sometimes it doesn’t. A jig hook, on the other hand, hangs at a 45 degree angle. So the trout (most of the time, unless it turns) will see the wing case first, which is a trigger. Bugs get knocked around in the current all the time, especially clingers and emergers, which are at their most vulnerable stage. There is no right or wrong way, because bugs twist and turn, but I want the trout to see that wing case first. And on a jig-you have your best chance this way. Hope this helps.
Great video! What jigged hooks do you use when you these in size 18? I know I have only found the hanak 400's sized down to 16 which is what I usually use.
Appreciate it Luke! I use the Hanak 480 in size 20. It is the size of an 18. The 480s are about one size larger. The 480 size 18 is the same exact size as the 400 size 16.
I prefer slotted beads because they invert, so 95% or more of the hookups are in the top of the mouth. It’s also easier to oversized the bead with slotted without crowding the hook gap. Appreciate you watching!
@@OldDominionTroutBum First time trying them a few weeks ago on the Owens in CA using a high stick method and two nymphs. I hung a Zebra midge off the bend of the perdigon and did well - about half and half on each fly.
Not at all, Patrick. I used to use wire like most people, thinking it got you down quicker (it really doesn’t add that much weight. I have weighed them for comparison) Flies that are thinner cut through the water faster than bulkier ones (even bulkier perdigons). George Daniel, himself, even wrote about that In his second book. Learning a lot after he published his first book, he thought you had to wrap a bunch of lead wire around the shank to get the flies down, when in fact you just need them thin and dense. If you use lighter tippet and keep your sighter off the water when the flies enter, you would be surprised how little weight you need to get down, even in heavy water.
@@OldDominionTroutBum Thank you for the quick and thorough reply. I don't currently tie but I'm fascinated with creation of this nymph. and have watched many videos. I think it's because of the UV lamp : ) . Thanks again and tight lines.
Sooooo interesting. I have tried and tried to get my perdigons to be the perfect triangle... smooth and meeting the bead. I finally got it a couple of weeks ago. Holsinger's Tinsel Perdigon is an example ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-lpfTCs6VBK8.html. Prettly flies. Then I see yours. Kablooey. My gut is to throw out my boxes and start over. It makes total sense why yours work. Wow.
Hahaha! Don’t throw them away Paula, they will still catch you fish!! You can also give your extras away to friends! Appreciate you watching and commenting. Tight lines to you!
I love the concrete details for doing it right. As for the resin brush, I cut all but a few of the bristles off mine (slice with razor) when I get it, and it stays nice and manageable the whole bottle. Thanks for another great video. As for tying in the tail and the flash in the same step, there's too much that can go wrong for me there. Not so much in getting them down, but on beginning the flash wraps back up, at which point I can't avoid pushing the tails off to one side. So I'm doing those tie-ins in two different steps (one with the thread going towards the back, one with the thread going back up to the front).
Thanks for watching, JP. Great tip for the brush. And whatever technique works for you is all that matters. Many ways to skin a cat. Tight lines to you!