Solid content bro. You didn't talk about alignments or a simple corner check. Every single time the cars come off track we remove body work or open hoods and trunks to let all the hot air out, once things start to cool perform a simple corner check.
jwrx7tt01 Jacking up the car to check each corner for bad ball joints, bushings, tie rods, wheel bearings, brakes, etc. Once the tire is off the ground grab at 12 & 6(o'clock) wiggle it, then do it 9 & 3, then spin the tire, and finally remove the tire to check brake condition. I would do that to a street car after each track day. Race cars get it done after every time out on track and once all the wheels are off, brakes get bled(depending on track time)
People are still surprised that my new Type R overheats when I'm pushing it at the track. While it's great out there, it's still a street car, and I'm currently working hard at mitigating those problems (mainly heat management). Savage job, Goose.
A few of my friends have Type R's and take them to the track. While the people on FB and Instagram are always surprised and sometimes blame the drivers, the people actually at the track are always understanding or shrug it off with a "turbo at the track what do you expect" or something similar. The only people surprised are the people who just have no clue.
I thought of the Type R when he said turbo. That Earthdreams motor takes up the whole bay, no room for air flow. I know the Type R has a different motor but still I imagine it's right in there.
Type R motor is definitely right there. Even better is that a lot of the owners aren't expecting this issue as for many it's their first turbo car that they can feel comfortable taking it to the track. The heat has been a more interesting conversation than just increasing air flow. The conventional vented hood and larger opening at the front upper grill still leave problems. It's just a characteristic of efficiently compressing air literally right next to the place that you're efficiently lighting it on fire while efficiently packaging the places in the same area. You have to work around those characteristics and their traits.
Changing the cat back on the BRZ can cut as much as 12 pounds. A good header will take another 10 to 12 pounds off the front end. Going with the stock size Michelin PS4s will cut 3 pounds of unsprung mass from each wheel. Almost 40 pounds cut from an 2780 pound car before you take into account the added hp, torque and cornering power. Taking 3 pounds off of each wheel improves the ride quality also.
It's taken me 3 years and $40k to convert my C5 Z06 to an actual race car, which included a full gut, full cage install, fire supression, rebuilding and hardening the entire driveline (engine, clutch, torque tube, trans, diff), full suspension upgrades, AP Racing BBK with spec master cyl, 3 gal dry sump and oil cooler, and aero setup. I'm still not done (probably another $20k worth needed). I check everything after every race. I check tires, brakes, and lug torque between every session. I change all driveline oils and brake fluid every 2 race events. Don't get into this sport unless you have the time and/or money to dedicate to this hobby.
chbrules thanks for sharing the truth. Motor Trend and Top Gear have people believe they can take a sports car or super car to a track and beat on it. It will break! You need race spec parts.
@@Gentleman...Driver You're right. You don't need to start out big. Get a slower car and learn the technicals before you worry about the speed. You will appreciate how much better of a driver you will become quicker when you are less stressed about the speed on track and more concerned with hitting those apexes and keeping momentum through the turns. Take a racing school if you can. I took the VARA race school a couple years ago. I started with autocross and slower BMWs over a decade ago. I moved into road racing on circuits. It got to the point where I needed a dedicated race car, as my DD wasn't going to cut it, and I didn't want to blow it up/crash it on track. Even while building my race Vette, I basically waited till last to get to engine upgrades. I started with suspension, brakes, and tires. I put race safety in next. Then I finally went with a whole driveline rebuild for added performance. I'm pushing out about 500HP NA in my 5.7L LS6 with stock heads now. The car weighs a hair over 3000lbs.
Any car is a race car. Just different levels of capability. The nut behind the wheel is the sole determinant of its survival. Know your car. Know it's capabilities. Any monkey can drive a vehicle until it explodes, a true racer drives the car to its limits, no farther. See Top Gear's F1 driver in a cheap car series. :)
Everything you just said is exactly why I said "screw the whole thing" and got a race kart. 2-Stroke race karts are whiplash-inducing fast (plenty of vids out there of them dusting Ferraris at a drag strip) and corner with more G's than all but the grippiest high-downforce formula cars. They're purpose built so you don't have to make so many performance compromises and kart tracks are cheaper and more accessible to drive on than most car tracks. If you plan to race, that's also easier to get into because all of the karts are built to tight CIK guidelines and the motors as well so you don't have to find a way to get an S2000 on fair terms to a Camaro to have a good race. Because of the way they are constructed, it's also virtually impossible to total a kart as you can replace any component or at least pull the motor if it's a really bad wreck. All in all, if you want to hit the track and not spend 100x as much time wrenching on your vehicle as you do driving, just get a 2-stroke race kart. Even after driving a Ferrari 458 at COTA the kart is still by far and away the better experience. Some people might say "but karting is expensive too!", but apples to apples it's not even close. Track day for track day karts are actually really cheap, it only gets expensive if you're touring national races that require an all-new kart every race to be competitive and then have the expenses of travel, etc., at which case a car would surely be more expensive for the same level of competition.
I totally agree with you on the karting side of it. Most people aren't going to do karting nationally namely as you get older. So to store a cart and do something like seven or eight races a year is nothing in terms of cost if you're just doing some Regional events. But it's really really hard to convince casual car enthusiasts of this. In America at least.
Yeah, it's funny because almost everyone in karting spent an absurd amount of money in cars before learning about what karting had to offer, it's rare to get someone straight into karting in the US/North America. I think the main reason it's more common in Europe is that sports cars are expensive to own due to taxes and fuel costs, so karting is that much more attractive as an alternative. I think in time America will catch on, the proliferation of arrive-and-drive places will increasingly give people a taste that will make them seek out the faster 2-stroke karts. It's just something you have to experience to understand, people just can't mentally grasp the idea that a kart that tops out around 80 mph could offer open wheel formula car acceleration, braking, and cornering.
Just be careful of doing the opposite (which I learned the hard way). ONLY upgrade what needs to be upgraded. Because the more stuff you throw at the car without testing what's really needed, the easier it is to build an unbalanced mess of a tin can on 4 wheels. Luckily for me it was somewhat easy to rectify, but it's too easy to overbuild your car or assume you need a mod that's actually overkill. Just like your fluids can overheat, you can end up with fluids that don't get up to temp, or monster brakes that lock up your 200tw tires, etc.
kern417 it’s very easy to unbalance the suspension as well by modding everything without concern as to why you’re doing it. Stiffer does not equal better in many cases.
Not to mention that the geometry of the suspension is designed for the stock ride height, springs and shocks. Lowering a car could make its suspension much worse, depending on the car and lowering amount.
This. This person speaks the truth. A lot of the time people upgrade trying to compensate for what they don't see as lack of skill but rather 'the car won't do x so I need y to make it do x'. Half the time, it takes understanding of the end result and translating that into the skills required to do so. When you get this understanding, you will realize how you are loading the car in order to do so and find out. I'm all about keeping it stock until the car truly does limit what I can do (after a 5 why analysis).
This has become my favorite channel. I'm glad someone out there "gets it". Over the years I have learned to appreciate the capabilities and limitations OEM design.
Another thing people overlook is their oil pan. Most production cars come with a wet sump system so if your car is making way more grip than stock, the oil can slosh around and the engine will oil starve, and at the end of a track day you might be out an engine.
Thats why you start by buying the right car... And you need a dedicated car for track days seperate from your street car. Preferably something light weight and cheap. You don't need alot of power to have fun on a track.
You're better off buying the performance you need for your application than trying to build a car it was never meant to be. I always wanted a WRX STI when I was younger and at the time I could only afford a WRX and I sunk a ton of money into it. I learned a lot, messed a bunch of stuff up, but in the end I realized I could have bought a WRX STI and a good set of tires and been way ahead. Live and learn I guess.
So true.......I loved my BRZ. Unless Subaru can get the torque dip worked out. I will never own another one. It does not need a turbo or more power. It just needs a better power band. A $500 tune will wipe out the dip ...............and your warranty.
Less fun than building Also the torque dip can be altered with headers If your worried about your warranty Get a plug and okay ecu tune If something breaks, put the stock tune on
*Don't be so worried about warranty... I wiped out my warranty 3 months in. I'm not going to pussyfoot in my car for 3 years or whatever it is just because I have to retain warranty mentality hanging over my head. If I didn't trust the car in the first place, I would have both something more reliable.*
Hang on a second Mr. Goose, you’re telling me that the 700lbs of fiberglass wings and spoilers I added to my base Civic are not improving performance?!!! The hell you say!
Preposterous!!! Being serious for a sec though, this is the kind of things some of us Honda people hear all the time...so you're not alone. Along with the following: Want to build yourself a race car George? Sure, start from scratch. Focus on a class you'd like to compete in, gut the thing and address every single thing Mark just mentioned. Oh too much work George? OK then no racecar for you. No my Type R is not a race car Steve, yes I'm sure. Forget the ads it's just a street car that won't immediately fall on its face in a track day. You want to take your Civic EX with a CVT, slap a tune on it, 'slicks', a strut bar, and call it a Type R killer/racecar John?..ummmmmmmmmmmmmm
Excellent points. I own a GT350R that has been tracked 4 times now. But I took it easy, I drove 6/10's. I'm not a race car driver and I'm not donating my car to the junkyard.
boo! I am not a pro but handle myself well on track. I just flogged my R at road atlanta for almost 1 hour straight. I will milk every penny out of this car. Went of track T7 once not bad. I would say 8-9/10's of my ability. I also have an extended warranty and perform all my own services. To each their own but the R is one hell of a car on track and to not use it as such is really a shame. Glad you track yours. More seat time will improve your performance and confidence and undoubtedly you will drive harder and be faster.
I took my stock/tuned GTI on the track for 1 day. 15-minute sessions 6 sessions in the day with a 45-minute rest between sessions. Holy crap it was fun. But it is not a race car. Driving it at 9/10'ths while watching another guy in an Acura NSX driving at 5/10'ths post slower lap times than me. I had fun with loads of clean air in front of me...then I got behind a 5.0 Slow mustang on a tight track. After 1 lap my car started to overheat.
I did go to that event. It was 2 days long and I learned a lot. There were GT350 Engineers there and I picked their brains on how to track my car properly. I learned in detail how they went about designing and building the cars.
Important facts. The earlier points about cooling ESPECIALLY apply to new compact and subcompact sports like the Fiesta ST. An uphill canyon run pushing it for 5 minutes in 95°F weather WILL ABSOLUTELY LEAD TO OVERHEATING. It’s a street car with a turbo, not a race machine.
This was phenomenal! Tons of gold here. After doing lots of hard driving and such and seeing the kinds of problems other people ran into all the time this video really hits the important points. Driving a machine at the limit takes a ton of maintenance and there is no way around that.
I was planning to take Mom's town & country on a track day and didn't even think to check the brakes. In all seriousness great, informative video as usual.
I love how you're bringing the fine print series back, I always thought it was a good idea. You had one about sports cars a while back and it didn't really seem consistent. Glad to see you're rolling with the series idea!
I know how different a competition car is to a sports car, even from an ease of access/maintenance point of view, but you have gone to a whole new level of detail. Thank you
I just bought a Boss 302 Laguna Seca that was literally built for the track. The springs, bushings, brakes, sump pan, engine, separate key with track tune, sway bars, literally every part of the car was built for this purpose by Ford Performance. I'm not saying that I know how to drive it or anything, but I would like to do some track days. This video is a great eye opener for pre and post track day events. I had not thought about 90% of the things you mentioned for pre and post track event checks. Thanks for taking the time to make the video and for all of the additional comments below which are just as informative.
Former Boss owner here. Loved the car and it was great on track. The only problem I encountered was the clutch pressure plate- pretty common on these cars. The clutch pedal would stick to the floor once the car got to certain temps, and you'd have to manually pull it up. An engineer came out a few years later and said the cheap Chinese Getrag transmission wasn't designed to handle the Boss's revs. The Laguna Seca has a trans cooler which should help, but just a heads up. Besides the inordinate brake dive (thank the live rear axle) and subpar trans, the Boss is absurdly fun and capable on track. Hope you love it!
This is a very good and very much needed video. I get so bored and fed up with drivers who pull up next to my car and want to street light race. These are the uninformed drivers with factory performance tuned cars, these are the majority of drivers who have not had their driving reactions tested and scored based on various road conditions or problems that arise day to day on the freeways or surface streets. Thank you for this highly detailed video.
Man I was like not even 5 minutes into this video: You have made an overwhelmingly amazing video!!! We get so many false problems calling in at work. I'm constantly having to reeducate people about how to tackle problems, and not just believe the forums! Amazing video!!!!
Everything you said here is legit and important. I converted my C5 Z06 Corvette time trial/track day car to a full race car now (gutted, cage, fire suppression, electrical cutoff, race suspension and brakes... the whole shabang). You're absolutely right that road cars are not race cars. It takes a lot of time and money to build a real race car (or just money if you buy one). I had to rebuild my entire driveline with new, hardened, and upgraded components to last through the serious abuse I put on the vehicle now. I had to upgrade to a full 3 stage dry sump, and transaxle and engine oil cooling systems. You better keep an eye on your temps and pressures on everything in the vehicle! I constantly check over and service my car. I service all my fluids every 3 races.
Sound advice which I practice myself and have done for years. My car has 100,000 miles on it and has been on track 60 times during its life. Original engine and transmission because I have looked into every aspect of tuning. Top video :)
Such a beautiful video! So true about grippy tires. Grippy tires> suspension mods> bushing mods> so on and so forth... There's so much tuning. You're always tuning around compromise. A good tuner knows how to balance the mods to make a car fun. But its only going to be fun for a limited amount of time. Its so interesting! Love building my car for that reason. Takes time effort and evaluation.
I riped my Miata (lowered and wider stickier tires and allignment) two years long for hours at the weekends and evennings after working and all i did was just some basic stuff like oil changes, discs and pads and other wearing parts. Never had any overheatings, no leaks, no problems with the suspension parts, nothing! Some cars are just better build than others, and lets face it, most cars nowadays have a shit quality compared to cars from 20-30 years!
Again, he clearly said that in suspension case, some car had maximum threshold above standard. You may still hadn't past the maximum load But still, threshold is never lie. If you modified heck out of it over that thresold, everything will turn to be wrong eventually
I did an introductory performance driving class, where we followed a lead car. An easy way to get your hands dirty: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-VFJp8LboUoA.html Or, even easier, take an afternoon car control class, which is a hoot! : ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1jw6hGccYgs.html
This is why I have taken a small break from track driving. The time and money needed for pre and post maintenance was getting out of control. It's hard to enjoy when you are worried about breaking the car the entire time you are on track. Good video!
I think this is why E30's are so popular as track cars because they take abuse so well. Honestly, my first track day in my E30 was run on 10 year old Michelin street tires. Taught me a shit-ton about car control. Most track junkies would benefit from running crappy, low traction cheap tires. If they made it mandatory that you run shitty tires, it would keep the costs and abuse on the car less and would be more fun IMHO.
So would Koni Orange (non-adjustable) Shocks be a good idea on a street car? I’ve had them on my old car and they were ever so slightly stiffer than stock but the car did feel like it handled better.
This is such an important, well done video. Thank you. People need to know even a supercar is NOT a race car....(it is likely less safe AND less reliable...). Keep this stuff coming!
That's exactly what I did on my STI. Just like you stated, I have found that I will need to modify a whole lot more (even just for tracks days) than I thought. Since I had my engine built (after I blew it up at the track), I already run better cooling all around, but there's so much more to it. Still, even with the costs, driving on the track is worth it. That said, my CBR (motorcycle) was a lot easier to track, maintain and costs a lot less. It had just about everything on it safety wired or loc-tited!
When I bought my Terminator, I knew I was going to flog the piss out of it, so the first things I did were reliability and durability mods, like mentioned above. Got all the rubber bushings out of the suspension. Chassis reinforcement with a set of full-length subframe connectors. Uprated springs and dampers. Larger radiator and dedicated oil cooler with a filter relocation kit to keep hose routing out of the way. Braided brake lines all the way around, plus caliper rebuilds, better pads/rotors, and Motul 600 fluid. Diff cooler. Converted the returnless fuel system to return-style, to prevent fuel starvation for cylinder #8. Only then did I add power, and it was all simple bolt-ons save for the twin-screw supercharger. _Lots_ of additional instrumentation. In the end, it would reliably throw down 600+ tire numbers, and I felt confident that I could drive it like an animal and it would survive. I sold it at the eight-year mark (seven with all the mods), and all the mods really helped it survive regular aggressive street driving, many track days, two seasons of SCCA Solo II, and no end of just general enjoyment. Car left me as fresh as it arrived from the factory. I hope the new owner(s) liked it as much as I did.
Great video! As a fellow S2000 track rat (I do Time Attack), I go through the checklist before the season starts and usually 2-3 times mid season to make sure I'm still ok. I replaced all my subframe bolts (known to elongate) but forgot to measure before and after. I'm also getting to the point where I'm bottoming out my stock suspension and seriously need to look into mitigating the stress I'm putting on the chassis in the corners. I threw in ducting for the brakes and likely an oil cooler next.
Thanks so much for your detailed, deeply insightful and enlightening content on the less spoken areas of cars and driving. As I've gotten older and gradually grown out from the more fantasy car videos, the realistic side of finances, reliability and other "boring" things that comes with cars have taken a front row in my priorities - these videos have taught me things that I've never even thought of - it must take a lot of time to produce so thanks, highly appreciate this quality content. Keep well.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. I'm looking into buying a new car in the next few months/year to use as an everyday street car, that I can also take to autocross or my local track a couple times a year. I was concerned about how to keep it reliable on the street, but I feel comfortable knowing I can reference this to insure I maintain it properly, if and when I do decide to do some track days with it. Thanks again!
Dude thanks for making this. Super helpful reminders. I would love to see one going over every modification people make to their street car to make it go faster and whether or not it's worth it. Also that's a super sweet s2k
Totally have had an oil drain plug fall out... I cut the engine as soon as the light came on. Was lucky enough to do no damage ;) Great same / practical advice.
People forget that the bolts holding stuff together act as heatsinks. When you get it hot, it's just like heating it up with a torch to help get it loose. Can't make this shit up, people don't understand the science behind why things go wrong and blame poor luck or something else blindly. Thanks for the awareness pieces! I can definitely say putting 200tw tires on my stock wheels introduced massive body roll. For every 1 change you make, the 5 things connected to it become inadequate
True. I upgraded suspension, tires and even sphericals to beat on autocross. I ended up with cracked wheel wells at the suspension mount area. Took a few years for metal fatigue to kick in though.
A really good check to do- is to get rid of your car after every track day. Buying a new non-street legal race car for each track day is a great way to ensure that you always have the best in saftey and engineering.
iam 71. started driving and fixing my car in 1965. you are VERY VERY right. and a helper can be a big help. one time my dad was helping me. he says it feels cool back here. the plastic oil line had a very small crack. i replaced it with a hard line.
Great points that only about 2% of your new hot rod drivers would ever think of. Then talk down on amazing cars that are abused and un-appreciated. Great video great channel
Super informative stuff, Geese man! I feel like this is a much watch for everyone starting out in our sport. During my last track day, I had my camber bolts loosen up on me causing my one front wheel to straighten up. Fortunately there wasn't too much camber though it did cause some fender lining rippage and minor fender damage. Ride safe, people! 🏁👍
I am a fan of the longer video, so very informative and quality info here man awesome. I am a long time subscriber and wanted to say the info, experience and knowledge you share with all of us is always top tier. Thank you
I run a pen mark on torqued bolts and the oil filter to more easily see it they back out, check for rim damage or small fractures that could lead to failure, torque wheel bolts to spec once the wheel has cooled somewhat to prevent stripping threads. Another great video with sage advice.
Solid content! There's so much misunderstanding of track racing. Engine power output should be at the bottom of the list for everyone starting on track. Start with a roll cage, bucket seat, safety harness, brakes brakes brakes, comprehensive suspension overhaul, manage the fluid temperatures, oil cooler if needed and minimal weight necessary. Having it go around reliably without any issues on a set of racing slicks for let's say 45mins of pushing it hard would be a good objective before even considering to increase engine output. There will be plenty of issues to deal with before you reach that. Fun thing you will experience is that you'll be faster than many of the high powered road cars around you.
Bought my bmw in 2009. $5000 in performance parts, 9 years and 100,000 miles later, i still drive it like i stole it, and she runs like a charm. Theres a difference between utilizing the performance of a vehicle and abusing it.
So you're telling me the straight piped fart can and $8000 of wheels, tires and suspension isn't going to make my 95 Civic DX track better? Better put some 93 in it also...
Yes, the kind that think its cool at first until they realize the car takes time away from them and then the hook up with a guy who drives a Chevy Cruze.
Good stuff! After I torque a critical fastener to spec, I will often take a paint pen and mark the bolt head such that when I make a quick inspection in the future I can quickly see if that bolt or nut has loosened. Driveshaft bolts, bell housing bolts and suspension bolts come to mind as all of these are exposed to both vibration and impulse loads.
Great vid! My R33 GTR Spec V even has a fuel cooler. Gained an extra 66bhp due to that mod :) Yes, got oil cooler (engine/gearbox/diff). All arms adjustable, rose jointed etc etc etc. Goes like stink around a track all day and never overheats. If you are gonna do it, do it properly.
Do not use a daily driver for a track car.I just sold my stinger that I had started to get ready for track.The stinger went way up in price from when i bought it last year.I went and bought a Mazda CX-30 turbo premium and pocketed 10s of thousands of dollars.It is worth it just to spend the extra 1k and just rent a track car or exotic the track provides--you will be out 1k anyway in tires even if you do just a half day--plus on cars with low profile rims--those get chewed up also.Goto any track day and look at the cars in the parking lot after a morning or noon section and you can see all the cars dinged up--flat tires--busted rims--body damage etc.Even at public drag my stinger had small dings all over from the chunks of rubber that were bouncing offit and I had about 5 or 6 that I could never get out that could be seen--and I ceramic coated my car before I went.Tracks will chew your car up.
Good points, but I do think that street cars are designed to be fully loaded (2 or 4 persons and Luggage) and then take potholes at speed in a corner on cobblestones for hours without breaking. Or go for hours at high speed in the summer of dead valley. If not, then it is not a well tested street car. So, I still maintain that in principle you should be able to drive trackdays without any problems, provided the car is in good condition and gets the maintenance the manufacturer states in the owner's manual. That can be more than the standard intervals (because of heavy duty). Still, for safety reasons, your points are legit.
Wrong. I tracked my car for 16 years and saw tons of mostly street cars die after one track day or less, even if they were maintained as required. Street cars are not at all designed to the rigors of a road course. Naturally, I upgraded critical systems on my car ('94 Supra turbo) as I tracked it. HIs points about upgrading systems that overstress other stock systems is impportant. For example, going from street to "sticky" (R-compound) tires without upgrading brakes and steering and suspension components is dangerous and a bad way to learn to drive on track.
@@doctorlarry2273 You are right, but you are missing my point. I presume nothing to be changed on the car, not even the tyres. If completely stock, it should hold up a track day. If not, it is either worn or badly designed. I do realise that a track day is maybe 10 times more stressful than normal use for some components. That is why it is safe to check those out. But from an engineering point of view, a modern, well built car, unmodified in any way, factory spec maintained, should be able to do a track day and go home under its own power. And again, the points made in this vid are legit for safety reasons. Just as everybody should check the car/tyre/oil/coolant/sway bars etc once in a while even when never on a track. Usually in normal use, that can be done largely (not completely) by your car mechanic at regular services.
@@ronaldderooij1774 I understood you were talking completely stock - as I was. I guess we have different experience in this area. Maybe it was related to location. You might be surprised at the cars that I have seen people bring to a road course - everything from VW beetles to SUVs! Yes! Many US cars may be built well for typical consumer use, but not to handle a road course. Further, many people do not maintain cars as they should and 99% of people new to a road course have no clue how to drive their car in that environment. The video does raise a lot of good points.
You are like the 3rd wheel on a hot date. Such a buzz kill. I drive Kia Stinger. I dont take it to the track but I just added Michelin pilot s4s.(high end performance tires) some cars are just more fun to drive than others and outfitting them appropriately makes a difference.
The Driver's Perspective I know that well. The front left wheel on my Mazdaspeed 3 got cracked by some nasty potholes. It's why I prefer steel wheels. Much cheaper.
Steel wheels are so heavy! I just keep it cheap with a quality Konig wheel, they are flow formed with the same technology as Enkei and half the price. I don't worry too much if I bend one. :-)
Yeah, oil cooler installations are no joke. Learned the hard way trying to install one on my car. Took me 2 catastrophic fails with the lines before I got it right and luckily without any fires but still trying to get the smell of burnt oil out of my engine compartment.
You can always tell a proper driver by the shocks he puts on his cars. My coworkers with "tuned" vag cars 20mm of the ground run the cheapest no name coilovers. *savagegeese runs ohlins* Respect!
I always knew tracking a car would accelerate its wear and potentially damage some if its components. Thanks for giving a detailed explanation as to why and how.
Also constant resonance vibrations. Most cars are not designed to stay at a set rpm of the engine. This causes nuts and bolts to become lose due to a constant vibration. It's something I learned about working with mowers and tractors.
@@edmundscycles1 If so, your mowers and tractors were of shockingly bad design. These things are simulated and then tested to death before going into production.
@@ronaldderooij1774 it's a natural situation. Even high performance cars suffer with the same faults. Spring washers and loc-tite can't overcome prolonged single resonance situation. Yes things are tested to death hence why they will say that regular checks on bolt torque are to be carried out per hours of use. Tractors for example don't use odometers but hours of use. If you check manufacture hand books they will give safety checks per hour of use not mileage.
Excellent and informative as usual. I do tend to think that lighter cars hold up much better as there is do much less stress on suspensions and brakes. I used to drive my 2195 lb stock MR-2 for long stretches at 9/10 to 10/10ths with no issues other than keeping Yokohama in business. Sticky tires to say the least. I am betting that heavy, high powered cars die young when pushed. Please no more ' performance cars' that weigh almost two tons. They may still be fast, or look good on paper, but never feel right. You really make the point that modding without considering the entire smarts chain leads to problems, as cars are engineered as a synergistic whole.
You missed a few notes for those newer “drivers”. At track; 1) let your car properly warm up. 2) after race day, let your car idle down. 3) change your oils immediately. 4) check your valve lash. I’ve seen many people drop valves-and that gets expensive.
