If you're pushing that much power while on a budget...and there's a million Rat blocks out there...plus aftermarket choices...then be choosy. If this was any other block that hadn't been made since 1980 (Mopar big blocks, Pontiac, Buick big blocks, etc), then you measure to make sure the align bore didn't move the crank up closer to the cam. The transmission might not line up, the timing chain needs to be shorter, etc.
@Albert Gaspar yep. Always best. I rebuilt a 350 into 383 stroker. Had so much rust a .090 bore still didn't get rid of pitting. Threw some sleeves, high comp stroker kit, and aluminum heads with a 100 shot. Thing was wild but I bet it wouldn't have lasted very long XD
Mark, love the Big block engines. Your machine work is perfect, the performance you’re getting out of them shows. Hope to be shopping from you in the near future. Regards
First "big-boy" toy the War Department let you have or are you just looking for that clue you clearly don't have if THIS is your "go-to" source for anything "engine build" related?
I found a nice standard bore 454 block, for $400. Pump gas and 660 HP. My 3500 lb. Chevelle will run 9.90's at 132 mph. Engine lasts 700 runs, before freshen up. Adjust valves and change oil every 50 runs. Low maintenance.
YOU AND DILDO. THATS BLABBERIN ABOUT " VIRGIN" BLOCK ARE ALMOST TIT FOR TAT, YOU REMIND ME OF THE FOOL IN HIGH SCHOOL ALLWAYS TALKIN ABOUT HIS. "350 SHORT BLOCK"
Don't get me wrong im no Guru engine builder but have built a nice amount of big blocks, i see his concerns all the time a little machine work a little extra cleaning will fix ever one of those concerns don't be afraid to sleeve a cylinder either , making 620HP with a big Block is pretty much standard now. Again its good information without question.
Really excellent information! Thank you so much for posting these videos. Now I just need a video that shows how to build my TH350 so it can handle all the torque from this brutal BBC.
Nice shirt. I had a firebird shirt just like that. Only got to wear it a couple times, before I accidentally burnt a hole in it,on the 4th of July. I went back to Walmart to get another one but they were out of L.
I have a rare pontiac 301 turbo engine that was stored away for 16 long year' it was a rats nest and full of surface rust. When I cracked it open' to my surprise it was rust free! cylinder walls, cam, crank, block deck everything rust free, I was shocked it survived.
I work as an outside machinist for the dod. Over the years I've found that if you can catch your fingernail on a defect its at least .010" inches deep. The cylinder on that block at 2:53 looks to me about .040 to.050" in some spots (mainly at the 6 o'clock near the center where it starts)
Denton Nix your comprehension might be a little too low for these videos. Maybe go check out some matchbox cars vids? And, stop typing lol after something you say. We'll decide if you're funny........and you're not. You're dumb.
I search daily for BBC stuff in my area there's one block $600. The one I'm building now I paid $350. I tore it down and noticed it's been rebuilt. 30 over sealed pro Pistons crank and mains 20 20 . The issue with this motor is the guy said it missed he thought intake carb issues. I found a spring had one retainer smashed and below the spring top. So the lifter was actually hitting the spring not the valve also I found plastic chunks in pan. I know the guy toke the pan off because he told me it was a two bolt main. My guess it had a nylon gear. So point being you don't know what your going to get when assembled but when you start buying piece by piece can get costly. So basically I bought a rebuilt block that just needs cam lifters one spring rering kit. With pp head's ex268h cam intake headers 400hp and shit load's of torque. All under $2,000 no matter how you look at it it's a gamble. You can buy completely running block for 1,600 or buy good heads 1,800 but the price was right in my situation.
Would the casting process of a new GM crate motor or casting in general be more accurate with regards to core shift in the head and block than from the 60's and 70's?
Mark , is there a reason you prefer the older block to the newer gen 6 ? As they come with roller cam provisions better oiling ,just curious as a novice thanks j
Great info looking forward to the build! I have a sbc 400 going turbo How can I keep the heads from lifting? You mentioned in this vid about rust and the threads and you can fix that what would you recommend? Thank you in advance and I appreciate any info you can pass on ..
WATS EXCELLENT ABOUT IT?IS IT CAUSE DUDES AN " EXCELLENT " DUMB ASS, CAM TUNNEL?? I VE BEEN BUILDIN CHEVYS SMALL AND BIG, WHAT THE FUCKS A CAM TUNNEL, WHO THE HELLS THIS GODDAMNED FOOL
A lot of great info.Question can you use the same info for the small block chevy because that what i have right now for my 68 Chevelle but one day would like a big block thanks for the info.
265chevy yes pretty much everything we went over in this video would apply to a small block aswell. We will be doing a small block build in the future too.
rare to hear about the original 265 SBC. Big blocks are fun, way less revvving, more grunt/ pull on the bottom end. You just end up buying rear tires more often !!
if its a work vehicle, it probably has fleet maintenance. depending upon the company, that could be real good or sketchy--a friend of mine worked for Frito Lay chips, they had only one mechanic traveling to a lot of depots to fix things. So maybe skip the Targetmaster you find in one of those :) (I witnessed a Wonder Bread truck with chewing gum foil wrappers in place of fuses that kept blowing according to the scorch marks). Cut open the oil filter to see what's the damage. Use a bike tire pump to pressurize a cylinder at TDC and listen for air escaping out the PCV. Check the coolant in the radiator for rainbows.
Hey Mark I'd like to get my 454 to 600 plus HP w some cheaper aluminum heads for lighter weight in an S10 truck. I'd love to see mid to low 10s (9.9 🙂 ) Thanks God bless. Springfield MO. Where to bring it to ?
For someone like me who is getting into vehicle engines is it called "freeze plugs or core plugs"? I work on and rebuild aircraft reciprocating engines like Lycoming and Continental maybe an occasional Jacobs or 2
They're core plugs. "Freeze plugs" was a misnomer used for so many years by most everyone, the label simply stuck. They are essentially the same thing, only "freeze plug" is the wrong name for it.
Freeze plugs do work. I learned the hard way. ❄️❄️❄️ First car. Cadillac 500 c.i. V-8, with only H2O in the radiator - think it froze in Nov 1984. 2 plugs popped out. Another developed a pinhole leak, easy to fix,. Just replug
Maynard Reed , just another 454. The best place to start on a BBC is the heads. These motors wheeze from the factory. Make in breathe better in and out and then ya got somethin'.
Hey Mark, I have been following your 620hp build, I have a 959 block and a 455 block, both virgin. Man this is a cool build and lots of knowledge for us laymen. First, I can't find the video of block prep, 30 steps you said, no find??? Also do you know anyone in New Mexico, with your knowledge to build, you seem to know the good builders and machinist. I would like to volunteer to work for someone for the knowledge. Thanks for the video content.
Core shift...Hmm I don't know how they do the drilling at the factory but image it would be CNC machined all holes with the same set up and if that were the case all drilling would be relative to each other even though it maybe slightly askew in the forging. If not then the mechanical operation may be fighting itself slightly because there may be tolerances lost when changing setups for drilling. so I would think it would be done in one setup.
Lol you can JB weld the rust pits in the freeze holes ahh no... I stoped watching after hearing that. You can stick weld cast If you know your rods and heat just saying.
I agree! I find it hilarious how these “builders” like this guy act like there the best out there and then you hear something like jb weld and it tells you so much about him with out even knowing him. Attention to even the smallest detail is what separates a world class builder vs a hack in a trans am t shirt who acts like he’s the engine messiah. I bet you never see a formula one engine builder bust out a tube of jb weld. For fuck sake. I’d rather go out of business and not build it and turn a customer away than put out less than perfection from my shop. I tell my customers if I hadn’t already built it or if it’s a new build the parts including block will be brand new or I won’t build their engine and refer them to this guy.
I have a 454 4 bolt from a 76 3/4 ton Chevy with a 14 bolt rear axle, my question is what size cam would help me get close to 1000 horse considering it has oval heads? I plan on using double sprints on the heads along with long tube headers and an edelbrock performer intake with a 650 cfm edelbrock carb, this is my first moter rebuild and any help or advice will definitely be put to good use...
With all of the performance parts available from GM it always seems crazy to buy aftermarket parts except maybe some bottom end stuff. It can be the difference between getting 100 thou. Miles or 20 thou. Out of some of this auto shack junk.
Actually it is.a motor...Gees, trolls like you ruin the internet. Look it up if you don’t know. Here I’ll help you learn today. its good info so a bit of respect would be better or just shut up. motor /ˈmōdər/Submit noun noun: motor; plural noun: motors 1. a machine, especially one powered by electricity or internal combustion, that supplies motive power for a vehicle or for some other device with moving parts.
Some factory 454's were actually 500+ hp engines. Adding 120 hp is a mild Nitros shot Getting 620 hp out of an old used block is not a big deal. A bigger roller cam with bigger head ports and valves on a decent short block gets you there.
I'll reiterate for you. A good machine shop can set you up with a good short block. Add good camming and heads and you are on your way to 600+ hp. I ran Chevelle SS's back in the mid 1970's with 396, 427 and 454 engines. I currently own and drive my original owner 1985 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Brougham with Chevy drive train under it.
Same here, me and my dad been building engines (rebuilds for customers and race engines for CT and drag) i quit around when he started shittin on other ppls line honing, basically he thinks everybody's machine work except his own is shit
“If it’s been line honed you wanna pass on it” Single handidly the STUPIDEST reason to not buy a Core, like actually stupid. A lot of these are reasons to Buy FROM YOUR shop not buy a core and have it built.
You bought that pitted, .030 over boat anchor after telling people it "might clean up at .100" and that it was "standard bore" because the "cam looked good"? Who gives a SHIT what a DISPOSABLE gonna-wear-out-sooner-or-later-regardless flat-tappet SBC or BBC camshaft "looks like"? And if that's .030 over and it "might" clean up at .100 MORE, its definitely JUNK since .125" over is the absolute MAX for any stock 454 block. As for those "steel shim marks", I've pulled heads from a few "virgin" Chevy V-8s and I'm yet to see any marks close to what that "virgin" block has. The only way any head gasket "shim" wears a block like that is if the head was "walking" on the block after some moron "engine builder" put the heads on with no alignment dowel pins after a "rebuild" or something. As for rust or corrosion in a cylinder bore or water jacket being linked to bad head bolt holes/threads, typically its pretty hard to get rust/corrosion in head bolt threads as long as there are head bolts installed in them. Even "open" bolt holes/threads that aren't blind so the bottom is open to the water jacket had better have bolts with sealant on the threads and the TENSION and "interference fit" TORQUED THREADS HAVE pretty much "seal" even "clean" threads pretty well as long as the engine is still in one piece. As for a "pump gas" 454 making "only" 620 hp "lifting the heads", anybody who does a "build" like that starting with a junkyard "core" block and makes "engine" buying decisions based on what a CAMSHAFT IN A JUNKYARD ENGINE PURCHASED AS A CORE LOOKS LIKE PROBABLY ISN'T REALLY ALL THAT "PARTICULAR" ABOUT WHAT THE "HEAD BOLT HOLES" LOOK LIKE UNLESS THE "CUSTOMER" HAS A "QUESTIONABLE CORE" WITH "RUSTED HEAD BOLT HOLES" AND THE "ENGINE BUILDER" JUST HAPPENS TO HAVE A "GOOD" CORE BLOCK THAT HAD A "GOOD CAM" IN IT AND FOR A "MODEST FEE" THAT "ENGINE BUILDER" WILL FIX THAT "CUSTOMER" RIGHT UP WITH A "GOOD CORE BLOCK" SO HE/SHE ISN'T "RISKING" THE DREADED "LIFTED HEADS" THAT MIGHT COME WITH "RUSTY HEAD BOLT HOLES". BRAND-NEW GM STOCK "LOW-PERFORMANCE" 454 CYLINDER BLOCKS ARE IN THE $1500-$2000 RANGE AND EVEN THE "BOWTIE" LOW-DECK BBC BLOCKS ARE IN THAT BALLPARK SO ANYBODY WHO "SAVES MONEY" BUILDING A "HIGH-PERFORMANCE" BBC STARTING WITH ABSOLUTE "JUNK" LIKE THAT CRAP YOU'RE PUSHING AT ANY "PRICE" IS A SUCKER FROM WHOM MONEY WILL SOON BE PARTED. HELL, GMPP SELLS COMPLETE TURNKEY ZZ454 "440 HP" BBC "PACKAGES" COMPLETE WITH A TH400 TRANS FOR $11,000ish so if you put more than $7500 total in your boneyard rebuild boat anchor you're still at the point of starting to throw good money after bad. The reason "good" BBC "cores" are "hard to find" and "expensive" is that "good cores" get bought up by "remanufacturers" and "rebuilders" that build "rebuilt" crate engines and the really "good" cores don't ever make it to a "junkyard" period for even those "buyers" to get their hands on them. The only BBC "cores" that end up in junkyards are almost always JUNK.
my god, you sound like an angry woman. If you want to make a “point” then stop making so many “quotes” like a fucking “WOMAN” and actually say something intelligent. You speak with emotion and not logic and I smell the fish coming from your panties.
@@jonasgrumby1093 oh, I'm sorry, I guess I didn't know there were a plentiful amount of affordable 7, 8 liter LS's scattered throughout junkyards and many other places in America. I guess I'm the only one left on the planet that likes big cubes and big torque numbers and reasonable price stroker kits so I can actually have 700 or maybe 800 hp on pump gas.. gee I didn't realize that.. There's still some of us out here that actually own real muscle cars like Chevelle's and Camaro's that like to kinda keep it more original, instead of being a sellout and buying an LS, I don't like paying for hype, and plastic.
Well if your building a 700 or 800hp big block Chevy then your obviously racing a classic muscle car and just ruined the originality of it. A junkyard 6L LS with 200K a big cam and nitrous will kill any built CBB.