Тёмный

Pete Whillance & Dave Armstrong climb Incantations E6 6b (FA) on Tophet Wall, Wasdale 

Roc Noir
Подписаться 2,7 тыс.
Просмотров 31 тыс.
50% 1

Pete Whillance and Dave Armstrong Incantations E6 6b on Tophet Wall, Wasdale. August 1984.
From the TV program Lakeland Rock.
UKC Logbook Description
A superlative test piece with two powerful pitches.
1.) 22m (5b), P1 of Tophet Grooves
2.) 35m (6b), serious and sustained with no real rests. Difficult, bold moves lead up the overhanging wall (wires out left). Continue up the wall (wires behind expanding flakes) to reach a thin right slating crack in the steep slab above. Climb the crack to ledges, then move rightwards over a bulge and step up right onto the Great Slab. Climb up to the Demon Wall traverse, then move left to a good pinnacle belay.
3.) 30m (6b), climb the rib above the belay; step right to below a thin right slanting crack in the overhanging wall. Climb the wall (cams) to a jug (peg), move right and pull into the groove above. Follow it and its right hand branch to the top.

Спорт

Опубликовано:

 

4 апр 2020

Поделиться:

Ссылка:

Скачать:

Готовим ссылку...

Добавить в:

Мой плейлист
Посмотреть позже
Комментарии : 55   
@ericastier1646
@ericastier1646 Год назад
1984 , i wish i'd go back to that date and would take a completely different path in life.
@stuartriches2551
@stuartriches2551 4 года назад
Bandoliers, waist belt, round the back belays, knotted tape slings, thick socks and Fires (stretched I guess), helly hanson trousers, oval krabs, what have I missed. Five star nostalgia - Hard men.
@mvashton
@mvashton 4 года назад
missed the cigarette @ 7:47
@Liofa73
@Liofa73 4 года назад
Stuart Riches --- You forgot the moustache...
@petersullivan8067
@petersullivan8067 3 года назад
Bandana!
@northernsoutherner2394
@northernsoutherner2394 2 года назад
When I first started climbing Pete Whillance top roped me on an outcrop HVS, a new route he'd just cleaned. I found it desperate! it took me numerous attempts to work out the boulder problem start. He then casually soloed it puffing on a cigarette! This was years after he'd retired from top level stuff.
@matthewwhillance3525
@matthewwhillance3525 2 года назад
Hahaha go on dad 🤣
@nimrod2550
@nimrod2550 Год назад
Absolutely immense, these films. Thanks so much for posting
@paddyoneill3243
@paddyoneill3243 4 года назад
I was 1 years old when this was filmed and even the conversations are so similar today while climbing I love it
@wickedst
@wickedst 4 года назад
The amount of swagger these guys had. Fenomenal!
@a.j.carter8975
@a.j.carter8975 2 года назад
❤😁🇬🇧 imagine how good Adam Ondra would be if he wore proper socks?
@christiangerhardt2408
@christiangerhardt2408 4 года назад
The last portion of the narration is so true because then you have Tommy Caldwell and the Dawn Wall. Which with old equipment was impossible, but it was these climbers who played a part in developing gear which made it possible.
@robertnewell4054
@robertnewell4054 4 года назад
1st gen sticky rubber shoes (Borreal Fires) & spring loaded camming protection (Wild Country Friends) and Old School Yo•Yo Leading. To borrow a phrase “BRILLIANT” ..... Ta for the nostalgia
@donaldraby2892
@donaldraby2892 4 года назад
Thanks for these posts please keep them coming.
@rickedeckard2006
@rickedeckard2006 4 года назад
So interesting. Thank you for the upload dude.
@TF-uk2gn
@TF-uk2gn Месяц назад
This is awesome!
@leewilliams6174
@leewilliams6174 4 года назад
Great time in climbing history , really enjoy these thank you
@LarryBees
@LarryBees 4 года назад
good post love that era
@chroniclesofbap6170
@chroniclesofbap6170 4 года назад
So impressive
@paulmorrey733
@paulmorrey733 4 года назад
Thanks
@doctorshawzy6477
@doctorshawzy6477 11 месяцев назад
entertaining..good work
@tathtath
@tathtath 4 года назад
smoking while climbing :D nice!
@weekendbikingwarrior360
@weekendbikingwarrior360 4 года назад
love all this.. apart from it's now obvious my childhood heroes basically were frigging the routes, as an impressional youngster `i never realised, even though I watched these in awe.. times change - no disrespect meant. Great to see again.
@fizzlebug
@fizzlebug 3 года назад
Well they werent friggning too bad, they just put in a few pitons here and there to assist with not falling to their deaths :)
@weekendbikingwarrior360
@weekendbikingwarrior360 3 года назад
@@fizzlebug but didnt really do the whole pitch clean type ethic did they? I'm not bothered about the pegs mate
@fizzlebug
@fizzlebug 3 года назад
@@weekendbikingwarrior360 I'm not sure how you mean, could you please explain? (English is not my first language)
@2rfg949
@2rfg949 4 года назад
beautiful. the real thing not like today.
@mixolydian2010
@mixolydian2010 4 года назад
FAntastic
@JustThisGuy42
@JustThisGuy42 4 года назад
7:22 Nicotine assist...🤣
@adamarmstrong5780
@adamarmstrong5780 4 года назад
Hard dudes right there.
@stuartbaines2843
@stuartbaines2843 4 года назад
No bolts Classic 👍
@civedm
@civedm 4 года назад
6:35 love it.
@rockclimbinghacks9222
@rockclimbinghacks9222 4 года назад
I like how they back off the cruxy sections to get a rest. How did they switch leads the last time? I imagine they must have untied and switched ends, but this seems a pain with half ropes...
@drewdurant3835
@drewdurant3835 4 года назад
The cigarette in his mouth... lol
@Paul-tp9vf
@Paul-tp9vf 11 месяцев назад
Proper old school siege work.
@edwardoakley8659
@edwardoakley8659 4 года назад
How did they get such good audio quality? amazing!
@mralekito
@mralekito 4 года назад
That's a really good question. I don't see any mics on them. They might be carrying them (it's hard to tell) but you would expect the mics would hit off the rocks and you'd hear that. I thought perhaps who ever is filming has a good mic, but they seem to be too far away. My guess is the climbers have mics. In the 80s I'm not sure what was around back then.
@adamarmstrong5780
@adamarmstrong5780 4 года назад
You can see the mic taped to the smokers chest under his white shirt on his left pectoral
@edwardoakley8659
@edwardoakley8659 4 года назад
Adam Armstrong sharp eye! You can, at 7:57
@ericastier1646
@ericastier1646 Год назад
Everything was ANALOG not digital, and it worked. Digital has been marketed falsely as better because it's more profitable.
@anjin33
@anjin33 4 года назад
Chads :)
@InnocentPeacefulLake-zc5ml
@InnocentPeacefulLake-zc5ml 2 месяца назад
Hard hat would be handy loos stones
@fatmanscoop8650
@fatmanscoop8650 4 года назад
Smoking a ciggie en route. When men were men and all that.
@fatmanscoop8650
@fatmanscoop8650 3 года назад
@James Peters just maybe not a fucking melt like 99% of climbers nowadays. Nowadays you are more likely to come across the type of climber that talks about the values of veganism rather than drinking a few pints and getting into a scrap. Times have certainly changed is what I meant. I know id rather hang around with the Don Whillans and Dougal Haston's of the climbing world rather than the bunch of purple haired creatures you find everywhere. Thats what I meant.
@k.t.robinson6339
@k.t.robinson6339 3 года назад
@Don W troll
@ericastier1646
@ericastier1646 Год назад
got that right back them men were men. Now men aren't even allowed to be what nature made them to be.
@rockclimbinghacks9222
@rockclimbinghacks9222 4 года назад
What is a "peg"?
@rocnoir4233
@rocnoir4233 4 года назад
A piton.
@allybally0021
@allybally0021 Год назад
Why choose something so steep? I have hills ion my area you can just walk-up. No ropes! I know some of the most gradual ascents around and can advise on these for a reasonable fee.
@peterrathbone179
@peterrathbone179 4 года назад
Does this man not know smoking kills 😬.
@philwaters9751
@philwaters9751 4 года назад
The story was... That Pete set an alarm clock to wake him up for a smoke about 3-4 in the morning or he'd wake up with the shakes. ... ;-)
@peterrathbone179
@peterrathbone179 4 года назад
@@philwaters9751 being afraid of heights I would need that and I don't even smoke 😀.
@boathemian7694
@boathemian7694 4 года назад
I have a photo of me on Mt. Rainer having a Camel
@nimrod2550
@nimrod2550 Год назад
@@boathemian7694 god I used to love a Camel
@DeShark88
@DeShark88 Год назад
@@nimrod2550 Better keep that to yourself 😉
Далее
🎙ПОЮ твои ЛЮБИМЫЕ ПЕСНИ💥
3:10:10
Это реально работает?!
00:33
Просмотров 4,2 млн
Left Wall of Cenetaph Corner  Llanberis . North Wales.
13:28
Roaches - The Sloth HVS 5a (Top 50)
6:54
Просмотров 8 тыс.
How to climb trad #2 Gaining Confidence
21:36
Просмотров 90 тыс.
Scafell Pike 3   Crossing the Bad Step
2:52
Eureka Wall w/ Hazel and Alex
12:54
Просмотров 1,5 млн
Advanced Rappel Techniques
12:25
Просмотров 1 млн
THE CLIMBERS - Chris Bonington
29:09
Просмотров 38 тыс.
Борец из Кубы  | Михаин Лопес
1:00
When The Players Don't Give up 😱
0:32
Просмотров 12 млн