Peter Lindbergh, born Peter Brodbeck on November 23, 1944, in Leszno, Poland, is celebrated as one of the most influential fashion photographers of the late 20th and early 21st centuries. His early life was marked by frequent relocations due to the aftermath of World War II, eventually settling in Duisburg, Germany. Initially inclined towards painting, Lindbergh studied at the Berlin Academy of Fine Arts and later attended the Kunsthochschule in Krefeld, where his exposure to the works of German Expressionists and the Bauhaus movement significantly shaped his artistic sensibilities.
Lindbergh's journey into photography began in earnest in the early 1970s, working as an assistant to German photographer Hans Lux. This apprenticeship provided him with a robust foundation in the technical and artistic aspects of photography. By 1978, Lindbergh had moved to Paris, where he began to establish his unique style, characterized by stark black-and-white imagery that emphasized natural beauty and authenticity.
*Defining an Era: The Rise of the Supermodel*
Lindbergh's work in the 1980s and 1990s played a pivotal role in the rise of the supermodel phenomenon. His iconic 1988 photograph for American Vogue, featuring models like Linda Evangelista, Naomi Campbell, Christy Turlington, Cindy Crawford, and Tatjana Patitz, is often credited with launching the era of the supermodel. These images stood out for their simplicity and rawness, in stark contrast to the highly stylized and airbrushed fashion photography of the time.
*Approach and Philosophy*
Central to Lindbergh's philosophy was the belief that fashion photography should not merely be about glamour and superficial beauty. He sought to capture the essence and individuality of his subjects, often photographing them without makeup and in natural settings. This approach was revolutionary and brought a refreshing honesty to fashion photography. Lindbergh believed that beauty was not about perfection but about character and authenticity.
He often collaborated with fashion magazines such as Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, and Interview, and worked on campaigns for major fashion houses like Giorgio Armani, Calvin Klein, and Donna Karan. His work was not confined to fashion; Lindbergh's portraits of celebrities, including Madonna, Kate Winslet, and Penélope Cruz, are also celebrated for their intimate and revealing nature.
*Cinematic Endeavors*
In addition to his photography, Lindbergh directed several films and documentaries. His first film, Models: The Film (1991), provided a behind-the-scenes look at the lives of supermodels, further humanizing these often idolized figures. His later works, such as Inner Voices (1999), a documentary about actor's inner processes, showcased his ability to delve into the depths of human emotion and experience.
*Legacy and Influence*
Peter Lindbergh's influence extends far beyond his immediate contributions to fashion photography. He challenged and redefined standards of beauty, encouraging a move towards a more natural and unretouched aesthetic. His work continues to inspire photographers and artists, advocating for an approach that prioritizes humanity over artifice.
Lindbergh's death on September 3, 2019, marked the end of an era, but his legacy endures. His numerous exhibitions worldwide, including retrospectives at prestigious institutions like the Kunsthal in Rotterdam and the Victoria & Albert Museum in London, celebrate his contributions to the arts. In 2016, he published a comprehensive book, *A Different Vision on Fashion Photography*, which offers an in-depth look at his career and philosophy, cementing his status as a visionary who forever changed the landscape of fashion photography.
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16 сен 2024
