Suggestion for next episode: Almost all videos about using epoxy (and EZ Poxy) are for doing the hull. There are virtually no videos about redoing the deck and cockpit. Yes, EZ Poxy is recommended for the deck and cockpit. But, the advice and tips usually stop there. I am referring to the need for advice and tips on how to prep and paint these areas. More specifically, how do you prep the the deck and cockpit in relation to dealing with curves, textured walkways, angles, hardware, and teak. For example, how do you sand a diamond textured surface since you can’t get into the valleys? How do you deal with all the masking if the textures surfaces are a slightly different color than smooth ones. How do you prep gelcoat that has lots of spidering? How many coats? It would be a nightmare to detach hardware and teak. Will painting around them look ok? What about bugs landing on uncured epoxy? Due to the complexities involved in refinishing the top surfaces, it is easy to see why no one really wants to do it, especially when there aren’t detailed videos on it. Worse, it is pretty much impossible to get a professional to come to a dock to do the job. Every shop I contacted said I would have to bring my boat to their warehouse shop. Well, that is absolutely impossible due to my boat not being able to be trailered unless I spend a fortune to have it hauled, de-masted, etc. Plus, there is no one in our area who provides such service. Have I made a good case for a DIY video on re-finishing the topsides?
I'm in a similar situation, trying to figure out if I can do this myself or need to hire someone to paint the deck, both the nonstick and smoother parts.
I used the exact same paint and color for my little Glen-L Minuet wooden sailboat restoration (a 15 footer). But I used an HVLP sprayer, thinned it 50/50 and applied five very thin coats. I'm pretty pleased with the results. In my case I didn't want a glossy coat due to very slight imperfections in the fairing, so the slight orange peel was actually a good thing. The Seafoam Green color gives it the classic look I was after.
"Fantastic episode, Tim! I love how you keep things so simple and straight to the point. Your wealth of experience and knowledge shines through in every video, and it's clear how much you care about helping others. Practical Sailor is truly fortunate to have someone like you!"
Your boat came out great. I redid my boot and cove stripes this year with EZPoxy Sea Foam green. It is definitely a VIBRANT color. One suggestion. IF you can get the boat under cover in a shed, the painting goes much easier. I painted my old boat 14 times with Pettit EZPoxy. The first time was outside and the other times were with the boat in a shed. It came out much better in the shed and I didn't have to worry about the sun. While the one part urethanes cure to a reasonably hard finish, they are still soft compared to a two part paint. Pettit does make an additive called Performance Enhancer that is advertised as making the finish much harder and more durable. I have not used it, but it is worth a try.
Just curious, I've never painted a boat before, why 14 times? How long did you go in between paint jobs? Did you have to sand the old paint off each time?
@@daveh.354 That boat was an 80+ year old wooden boat. I wanted to keep it looking perfect, so an annual paint job was in the works. Once I had good paint build up the annual paint job only took a day and a half (sand hull, mask, paint), so why not. Plus that 33' boat only took about a quart of EZPoxy for a coat so it was cheap at under $100 per year (sand paper, tack cloth solvents paint, rollers and masking tape).
I painted my boat with Quantum 99. I sprayed it and got the orange peel. We were inside so I am not sure it was temperature or to heavy coats. Anyway it was close to June and there was a flurry of other boaters passing and watching as my daughter and I tried to buff it out. The orange peel was too deep and it just looked horrible. About 5pm everyone in the building had left and I looked at my daughter and said... Why don't we just sand it and roll on another coat with a roller this time. Well next morning it was nothing but amazement and compliments from the other boaters... "Ooh that buffed out nice" "Great buff job" on and on all day. I never corrected any of them :)
I have used one part Poly's for over 45 years. The key was always thinning for the days conditions and applying Thin coats with good cure between. Messing around with all the others and the well known 2 part finishes as well, This is what I use on my Morgan 25 (1967) with great satisfaction and easy touch ups! Most people do not read the literature but if you use the Performance Enhancer you will have a far more durable, scratch resistant and quick curing finish than without. The gloss and hardness is enhanced considerably. My topsides and decks (with anti-slip and without) have remained shiny and clean for three years with moderate soap downs only. Be careful to use the right ratio, avoid thinning too much, and you will have a durable, repairable finish for your boat! Incidentally the 333 thinner is grossly overpriced but is a superior thinner, though it can be fairly replaced by use of Naptha. And thanks for all your work Tim, Practical Sailor is perking up nicely!
Painting is so necessary to own the boat and keep it shipshape. You simplified. All those agonizing stripes are gone. I brush absolutely everything. Paint is generally wickedly expensive.
I painted my first boat with Easypoxy end, it barely lasted two years. Granted it was in the tropics, but it was white and went chalky very quickly. My second boat I had painted with Awlgrip, dark green, and it looked good when I sold it after7 years But my third boat I sprayed with. Alexseal, off white and it still looks great after 15 years. It was much more labor intensive to apply than the Easypoxy- rolling it versus spraying it-but the end result was worth the effort.
Thanks for keeping it simple and approachable for the average guy Tim. Understanding the process and materials required really helps as I near time for my haul out. A fella could really use a Lady K video on hull blister repair. 😅
When Boston harbor clean up of 12 years. all old boat shanty and any sewage draining in water shut down. I found many small FG boats 14 to 18 footers before they crushed them. I used Pettit products easy clean and great finish.. Refurbus new mast, sails and trailers and paint. Sold em out front yd. 6 total.. Pettit colors made it easy.
I love the EZPoxy. All of the Pettit products are the best which is why I use their full line: Bio Blue degreaser/dewaxxer, EZ Tex, EZ Fair and EZPoxy. The gloss enhancer is great stuff, too and they're thinner is mandatory.
Just completely repainted and rebuilt a 1976 Aquarius 23. By stock in sandpaper and sanders, painting with a roller. I used a two- part primer, with no wax and two - part with wax on the hull. top side no wax primer and Total Boat Bright side to finish. Came out great! but feel your pain
thanks, Tim. I'd like to see you have a look at the icons.. the Swans, the Super Maramus, the other very high tier boats that might have an occasional example that's cheaper than you'd expect .. with a bit of DIY fun as Mads says..
You were burning up electric sanders that are just made for DYIers. You should have been using an industrial or pro grade pneumatic orbital sander. Like an auto body shop would use. This way the only thing that would have worn out would be your arms.
Hi from Ireland! Love your vlogs…. Really helpful and concise (which can be a RU-vid rarity). Love the paint job too. I will do a wrap of the hull this winter. have a 2008 Hanse 350 and the laminated internal flooring is showing its age. Am thinking about options to keep plywood bases and recover??
question? You did not say anything about the very bottom of your boat? In the video it is black, not green. did you purchase black paint, and did you do the below water line part of the hull the same as the top part? Sanding, primer etc.
I'm very curious how you like the paint after a year or so. I found it to dull and become chalky. Even with their additive harder. After painting a professional said use the two part alwgrip. Oh well to late for that.
Good article, but to your point, the orange peel is because you did not tip. So that's your answer to why we need to roll and tip. Minor point, though.
Near the end of the video, it’s clear that you have painted the very bottom part of the boat in black. How did you paint the areas that were resting on the supports? Just curious. Thanks.
I didn't paint under the pads. The boat hits the cradle slightly different every year and I touch things up where I need to. You can also usualy lower 1 pad at a time safely, paint that spot and the next day paint another.
As always…Great content!!! Thank you so much for posting and sharing your knowledge 😇🙏🏻😎🖖🏻🤙🏻 I’ll get there hopefully sooner than later, cause the sea 🌊 constantly calls me…I let it go to voicemail, but one day I’ll be able to take that call 📞 Amor Fati Shroedinger 🐱
Ugh! This is all fine and dandy for you perfectionist racers, but I really don’t care that anybody sees my boat from any closer than a quarter mile…. my 28 foot southern Cross will be just fine with whatever I slap on it in whatever condition thank you though.😎
I was once told “there are only two colours to paint a boat…. And one of them is wrong!” Love the channel but that colours is 🤮. Eye catching I guess😵💫
