Petzl Coeur Pulse Tested - $70 Bolts!?!?! 

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We use them for industrial rope access. They come in really handy in situations where we're working on buildings that aren't finished yet and don't have their abseil system in place yet. Also great for jobs where we need additional anchors but the client doesn't want the ongoing cost of recertifying a permanent anchor every year. Also great when replacing glass panels where we need anchorage in the room. Lift up the carpet or remove a ceiling panel, find some concrete you can set-up in shear and off you go. The short bolt length is really handy as you're less likely to hit rebar when installing them. Neat fact, under IRATA 6kn (roughly a factor one fall) is the highest potential impact force a technician should be allowed expose themselves to, which might explain the rating. As for having to use a four blade drill bit. I'd say that should be the standard for any friction anchor. Don't be a cheapskate, buy proper drill bits!

From a machinist standpoint. A two flute drill bit will actually drill a triangular shaped hole. The four flute drill bit will drill a more round hole. When using dial or digital calipers to measure, you apply light pressure. Great tests though. I enjoyed your video and watched a few more despite having no interest in climbing.

Way back me and my dad Rowland Edwards invented the extractable bolt idea for climbing... It was called the E-fix, later to evolve into the ENP. The major problem with removable bolts that are repeatedly used within the same hole is "waxing", a layer of metal is deposited inside the walls of the hole, so much so we found we could literally pull the bolts out by hand! Anyways, removable bolts should be a one use only in them holes. Great videos, great channel. Get well soonest Bobby. Saludos from Spain. M

Please make a video to test the Czech sand trad gear🙏🙏🙏🙏 It'd be super cheap and fun to watch!!

petzl instructions always have the best graphics!

Bobby's hair is back! Just kidding, hope the recovery is going well! Great videos all around!!

I have waited so long for this video. We use the Cœur Pulse in situations where we cant set permanent anchors. Greetings from Switzerland, 🇨🇭✌️

Nice to see people taking all needed time to explore and explain their using of equipement. 20' and nohting is lost. Thank you.

Never even knew there was such a product or even temp bolts that were super good enough haha thanks for the video!

Used in rope access on building sides and roofs for re belays, deviations. Great for near the ocean city jobs as can be removed to protect from corrosion . A lot less obtrusive than fixed hangers.

I don’t even highline, slack line, or climb, but your videos are cool man. You never know when the info will come in handy. You gained a new subscriber

I was climbing at Lion's Head Ontario Canada and it's a sea cliff with a top-down approach. My friend had the Petzl Attache and was loaded when she screwed the safety close. Had to run back to the car and get a pair of plyers. Now I always close the gate unloaded. Still love the Attache, it's one of the best all around lockers I've ever used.

Nice testing guys. Thanks for the video. I can see why they don't want you to lead over those. If the carabineer flips over the top as you climb past it and take a fall.. You can break that quick release.

A mate of mine who I worked for in rope access told me they only use them in special high strength concrete. I never used them personally, only the big Petzl glue in ring anchors and they were also in concrete. Super Great video as always!

Love this! I use these in a few canyons in Ouray. We use them mostly for handline anchors and redirects as most of our redirects are only needed during high water.

The next step wouod be the 22kn climbtech removal cam for 1/2" holes.

Used them once while retro bolting. My partner had a few. Worked well. However, and considering my limited use and this video (thank you), price seems to be the only reason why I wouldn't use them again. Dollar Titens for the win.

I use them to hang hammocks when I´m visiting a friends house

Love how he flips the bolt at the end!

For anyone looking for the titan bolts they use in other videos, they are are also sold under the brand name Simpson strong tie

thank you for your service

We use them in the oil and gas industry Survey . Hell Portable. Safety climbing !Leave no trace!

Used them in industrial rope access to access cliff edges for scaling rockfall mitigation. Had no issues. I do wish there was a semi- permanent sleeve- type device for repeated use. Found a bit from hilti that worked perfectly, pricey tho.

Its gratifying to see people that put their lives on "the line" when they play on what they test. the Ultimate Street Cred. 👏👏👏😎🇺🇸☯️♾️

These guys remind me of waking up to pancakes and fish 🎳 on weekend mornings when I was 6 to watch cartoons then mr. wizard. Learning safety and passing info is vital ! I just think these guys nail it and make it fun to watch,an honesty I can’t afford half the gear they use I just love to hike&climb. The info and demos they pass along are helpful for most!

Haven’t used these, thinking about picking some up. We use the climbtech removable bolt system, they were some of the first. In their testing they claim the substrate will break before the bolt.. might be worth a try..-------- Our use case: redirecting in industrial setting, placing anchors for temperorary operations.. only for static loads, only for double rope system. Making a “collar” slow drilling at first is key, going straight in, and blowing out the hole are key. Dust “lubricates” the hole and must be cleared out. Great vid! Keep it up!

Great video! Thanks for breaking my bolts, :).

Amazing! Great video

The only time I’ve seen these used was when josh and Charlotte (cold house media) were bolting a mega prow in Peru. They used it to set the rappel line to begin the top down bolting

Insane content mate!

Pretty impressive strength.

I used the 8mm ones to bolt a few routes, I found them super convenient to set up a fix lines to clean up and search for lines.

We use them in civil protection rope access, i guess with the goal to quickly enter locations to save people, leave and go next with less material to carry, and when training so we can quickly remove bolts and seal holes without having to restock bolts regularily.

Great video, so happy to get to see these breaks. Stronger than I expected. I currently use climb tech Removable Bolts, always been curious about these. Have you used the climb tech ones?

Holy shit, those are strong AF

Looks to me like the machining marks in the hanger are due to the matching anti-rotation feature on the bolt. Love the free sub btw, been rocking it for a while now.

Yeah we know you're gonna go whip on it Ryan, you can't fool us. Definitely seems like it could be used in aid climbing in some way, might be cleaner just to have the holes with no hardware, or to replace a gear anchor location.

These bolts can turnout pretty handy for drilling routes up the wall. in very negative angles they are lifesavers, at least we've been using them with this purpose on our very solid sandstone, and it has been pretty satisfying. Don't about disclaimers for that type of use, but I guess there is a point when it's all about mitigating risk, not eliminating it. So, in that case, it's a very helpful piece of tool to have in-hand.

RU-vid brought me to your channel yesterday and today I got to watch a brand new video! That’s because I subscribed with notifications turned on! What a beautiful piece of engineering! These bolts are incredibly strong and they are beautiful to look at. I would love to have them as part of my collection. Thank you so much for this amazing channel. Yesterday, I watched you on Lost Arrow and I was incredibly impressed! I’m trying to keep myself from binge watching all of your incredible videos!

you have the most intelligent way of asking for a sub. the first time I heard you say it I clicked the sub button because you earned it with that haha

My father used to design stainless equipment for industrial food processing and he explained that 316 has better crack resistance than 304.

Great to see these tested! I use them a lot for birds of prey research to access nests etc., where one would not want to leave anchors (for obvious reasons) once done with the work. The study areas are often in National Parks where permission for bolting may be time consuming, and this apparently doesn’t count. I printed rock coloured rubber stoppers to plug the holes, which, allows me to use the same holes over multiple seasons (If I can find them again ;).

Thanks guys, I've used these for years for not just rap anchors. at first I was like ugh why do you guys keep breaking these things brand new? there's little point in that as they're rated so they'll be fine if installed properly. But the second test is something I've had happen and it's great to see the results. They're expensive but the main advantage is ease of installation. -They mean you don't need to carry as much gear with you if doing recon, eg a temp anchor where otherwise you might need to bring an impact driver to put in concrete screws -for things you might to back to periodically, no need to use stainless anchors for temporary points, just plug these in and go -you can do guerrilla sport sends (though not recommended by petzl, obvs) of a project without putting in the bolts -they make aiding and access with bolt lines a breeze as you don't need to hammer and tighten with different tools plus if you hunt around for a good deal you can get them for like AU$50

Per Andy K, these things are dead useful on alpine big walls where you’re not trying to hike or ski in 40 bolts for all your anchors. Great test guys!

Test the two fluke vs four fluke drilled holes with your standard selection of bolts for bolt busters!

Before covid, these bolts were around 50$...with the explosion in outdoor gear they must have gone up...I definitley can see a value in these bolts where you are worried about thieves, don't wanna leave responsibility for someone's else's climbing failure, or leave no trace for multiple reasons legal or illegal lol...Toolless feature is what makes it great though. I agree with Bobby though if you are able to have a bunch of gear with you

Great video! Just a friendly heads up, (and RU-vid community, feel free to correct me if I'm wrong), but calipers shouldn't be squeezed hard, you end up getting a smaller reading based on the mechanical flex/"slop" in the calipers, and your dimensions are artificially reduced. Instead, your calipers should be snug, firm but gentle. Does this matter for most cases? Maybe not, but when we're talking about a tenth of a mm, every little bit matters.

Fyi the atache barrel can be loosened with an 8mm camp quicklink. As you unscrew the link, Place the atache barrel so that the link barrel unscrews into / hits the atache barrel. Then use the link as a wrench

Seems useful if you needed to develop a sport climbing route on lead, but wanted to equip it with glue in bolts (cause sandstone). You could lead up with these and then replace them with glue-ins on the way down.

The 4 blade masonry bits are easy to source in us, typically they're considered "rebar cutters"

You guys should get the slow mo guys for some silly high fraim slow mo

I used them once for a highline show between two buildings, 3 or 4 of them on each side in concrete I think. They were all pulling on the side and it was bomber 10/10 would whip.

Start using them for Canyoning Guiding; perfect for setting up temporary anchors for guided rappels and handlines,etc. The x bits are expensive, and the bolt could be hard to retrieve when in wet situation.

Использовал на монолитном здании,фото к сожалению нет, Анкер Petzl отработал на 5 баллов 👍 Буду заказывать ещё! В горы не хожу- только промышленный альпинизм! Всем добра!!!

When they get stuck in limestone you can just sell your home to replace them.

Keep the tech talk, dont change anything!

Do u guys use a level to help keep the drill perpendicular whilst drilling, especially for these removable bolts?

47kn! Not bad for a removable bolt... Wow

Free subscription!!!! Woooo!

at 4:30 you said something "opposite". IF you see the little GAP you survive. You die if you DON'T see it. nonetheless, I'm a huge fan of you work. I've learned so much thanks to your videos. keep it up. Cheers from Italy

Hi Ryan, we were thinking of getting 6 of them as we get a discount at a local store. The idea was to use them to rig highlines in protected areas. Are they ok to use for highlining as I just heard you say they are advertised only for rappeling?

In Germany, these are available for 40€ straight (taxes included) = 43$.

Good video

Hi Guys! are you going to do an update test? The new Coeur Pulse 2023 model has a spinning hanger and a tightening knob that is supposed to not get stuck.

I wonder if it’s for high angle rescue? Might be useful for the tripods or additional anchors. I’ve seen double rope for rescue. But that was 5 yrs ago when I took rescue tech.

Test the temporary screw in bolts you guys use???

Not sure if someone said this already, but I bet they say not to lead climb with them because of the head snapping off when loaded. A draw could flip right over and get stuck but not with a static load in the hanger... maybe a water bottle?

How would these be for lead bolting when you have to drill from a climbing stance, much quicker to get in than a normal bolt, then climb to the next stance, put another one in, down to replace the previous one with a proper bolt, continue as above?

"You win a free sub" - meanwhile I've been a sub for a year. Awesome content as usual.

I have two screw lock petzl ok caribiners and they will lock shut easy with just fingers and I have to use pliers to open back up

You get a better measurment with calipers if you hold them normal to whatever you are measuring instead of parallel.

Whouou Free subscription !

To my knowledge Pulse are used by cavers for aid climbing. Driling holes as they go up but not leaving any gear behind.

it's holding..IT'S HOLDING..oh,it's gonna blow.

I know l am late to the game here but didn't trango or fixe make a tubular cam that went into bolt holes for similar purposes?

The Titens (I too use the 1/4" PS ones for temp anchors) are super cheap HOWEVER they require you to haul along an impact wrench, socket etc. Not exactly light. I could see using these for areas where saving weight is helpful. The other area would be positioning bolts on route. Setting a Titen on steep terrain with an impact wrench isn't exactly easy...

I pronounced attache the same way bobby does at 6:05 and the petzl guy told me they just say attach

hey ! do you think you can test the Petzl Pulse 8mm ?

Like this Channel.... just wish I could afford the ropes and things.

What's the beat at the end of your vids?

these look cool. pretty prizey, but if you want what they do, they seem to be really good at it

Yo! Great info and testing! I wonder what the alternative bolts that Bobby shows @07:36 are called exactly or where to buy them! THX a Lot

I am curious if you tapped the rock with a hammer, before placing them? Granite is not supposed to fail like that, if you hear the “ping” sound from the rock when you hit it with a hammer. I was part of the 2.9km project in Senia (Norway), where they worked like a charm! In the high wind the line was exposed to 22kn equalized between 3 of them 💪 they are still being used I think. Cool video thank you!

Hey there! Has anybody tested those in wood? I know they're not made for this, but I was wondering if that would hold up supergoodenough or if I'd die hanging myself off those felling trees or climbing along wooden roof beams...

Shoot, I was hoping you would test the 8mm version

How’d you find drilling with a 4 blade drill piece rather than a 2? Any noticeable difference when drilling? Was it quicker?

Non climber here. Don't know jack, just enjoy watching it. So, just watched the first pull. That carabiner is nuts. I'd think it would break or at least bend with that much force, especially concentrated all on one point. What's the force they can withstand?

I believe the 4 bladed bit is called a cruciform bit

Hi I was working for Metaltech b.v. in Weesp. They make (with milling machines) extreemly high cuallity parts for creuse ships that moostly creuse the ocean and all parts ar mede of stainless 316L. So I dont really get why titanium? Just extra fancy?

You should break test the dmm xsre

Mr. Hutton describes his current system (one-dollar bolts) for temporary/removable bolts. Having done the testing of the Coeur Pulse, I wonder if he had any reaction/thoughts on situations where he'd consider it a worthwhile alternative?

12/10 WOULD WHIP!

Where in the US can you buy the 12mm bits?

Sauce on 1$ bolts? Just looking for a general idea of that type of thing.

Impressive but I would never pay 70 for them thats so expensive. And do you still make instant coffee? Going on a backpacking trip and thought I'd grab some.

hey do you got a P.O Box ? would be Happy to Send you a para for your drop tower to see them in dynamic test

What type of bolt is using bobby 1dollars screw?my English are not so good so if you could be certain,thank you

How strong are normal lag bolts?

The diameter of a drill does not, typically, equal the diameter of the hole produced.