Thanks BTW - if you've not seen them, there are detailed [written] reviews for most printers - lots more detail and links to all related articles/videos. There is a link to the main review in the notes for any video.
Have spoken with your local supplier ‘Paper Spectrum’ and found them extremely helpful. Just placed my second order with them having tested out some of their sample packs 😉
Thx Keith, another interesting and educational video. What I really appreciate in the way you explain things is removing the beautiful packaging of a subject (which some other ' experts' do) to get to the heart of the matter. Recently, just 'discovered' you recently so.... I am using your testfiles and because of the way you explained it (also in other videos) I am looking better to my prints rather than being stressed with the question do my screen and print match. And that all on my 13 year old still perfect working Epson R2880 🙂
Thanks Keith, another grate video! I don't know if you already have made a video about photo cards printing... I'm looking for some tips on printing on Hahnemühle photo cards. I think it could be a great one video to dive in those special papers! Hugs from Brazil!
Several - Look at the review for any printer - there will be links to card tests/videos start here for example www.northlight-images.co.uk/greeting-card-paper-and-printing/
Thanks Keith. When I bought my new Canon Pro200, I bought some of their Luster paper to try. I also had quite a lot of Epson Semi-gloss left over. I tried printing out one of your test images on each paper (just using the Canon Luster icc profile) and I could not tell the difference between them. I tried the same image on Permajet's Oyster using a profile I had produced. It produced warmer colours.
Thanks for this Keith! Really informative video again! I’ve been using Bockingford inkjet watercolour paper for my art prints as I use Bockingford watercolour paper for painting. It doesn’t have icc profiles but I like the texture and feel of the paper! :)
Thanks for the video Keith, very informative. I have already printed about 100 A3+ photos on my printer. If, before my printer dies, I print 500 A3+ prints, I will spend over £2000 on paper and ink. Ouch. 😲 No, I am not going to mount and frame all those photos, only a select few, else I'll be bankrupt!
I recently acquired three Canon Pro-6000 printers, your videos have been very helpful for me in getting familiar with photo printing. One thing I would really like to see is an in-depth video on all the different paper types and their purposes, and advantages/disadvantages.
I have a detailed PRO-2000 review (from before I started adding videos to my reviews) www.northlight-images.co.uk/canon-imageprograf-pro-2000-printer-review/ Not a video coming any time soon I'm afraid - I tend only to do written reviews for papers www.northlight-images.co.uk/keith-coopers-paper-reviews/ A guide to papers is not really feasible, but I give it a go in an article listed on that page. As to advantages/disadvantages - like any two print makers are ever going to agree (if they have thought abut it much) ;-) :-)
Kieth as a RR paper supporter as I have gotten great support from them, but as a beginner this shouldn’t hard much water either. Customer support to answer question as such is why I’ll stick with them.
Great video again Keith , would love to see maybe a in-depth video on how too add ICC profiles to your settings before printing an image , i know you have talked about offering your ICC profiles for certain papers , is there anything on your website that talks about how to do this , thanks
Thanks Very difficult topic to cover in any detail since it depends on the printer, the software you are using and the system. Include enough detail to be helpful and it's irrelevant to many people. Look at the specific [written] review for the printer, it shows how I print - it will also have links to videos and articles covering more detail
Mr. Cooper, I recently within the last months purchased a Canon Pro-300 printer. I had been using an old Epson 2400 printer for many years and was very happy with my prints and the results of the Epson printer. Over the last week I printed out several black and white prints for family. I used Hahnemuhle Baryta Satin paper with the Hahnemuhle Pro-300 ICC Profile. On every print I had to adjust the brightness up 21 percent and contrast up 7 percent to get the right print. I kept thinking it could be my monitor need to be recalibrated so I recalibrated my monitor three different times using my Spyder Calibration system. Still I had to do the same brightness and control adjustment to get the correct prints. I tried a color landscape print and had to use the same adjustment to get the correct print. Do you have any color ICC profiles that might help me with this issue? Do you have any other suggestions.? I have been watching your videos on the Pro-300 and I have downloaded your complete review on the Canon Pro-300. I didn’t have this issue with the Epson prints. I have been using Hahnemuhle paper almost exclusively since 2011. I mainly use three papers that have worked well for me in the past. I use a photo rag paper , the Satin Baryta paper and the Epson Luster paper. These have worked well for me for many, many years. However I am willing to make changes if needed. I am in the United States. Thanks for any help you might be able to suggest! Sincerely, Russell W. Mann Sent from my iPhone
For B&W look at using the BW print mode of the driver www.northlight-images.co.uk/black-and-white-printing-with-the-pro-300/ For the colour - try printing a known good test image - no adjustments, the best way to check all is well. Email me at Northlight if you like - I'd be curious to know what's doing this.
I did email you about a week ago before I did the comment. Thank you so much for your reply. I did recalibrate my system and tried another black and white picture. First try and it came out perfect. I downloaded the ICC profile again and used the ICC profile with no adjustment. So this one came out perfect. I got this printer about a week ago and have printed around thirty pictures. Most of them were black and white. Most of them came out perfect. But I had about three black and white I had to print two or three times to get right because they came out darker. Makes no sense to me.
If the test images come out OK and some of your own too dark, it's because those images are being edited too dark on screen. For me, if, the print looks wrong, then I've edited it wrong ;-) Also - edit with a white/light grey background. The modern 'dark' interface fashion is designed to make pictures on screens look better... It's a sop to the screen/phone obsessed - I feel a new video coming on... ;-) :-)
Choose a paper brand that is easily available in your country. If you live in Europe like myself choose a brand that is sold in European stores otherwise you will pay additional import taxes like orders from the UK. Ordering Photospeed paper is therefore too expensive for me. I myself use ILFORD and Canson.
Yes - this examples I give are specific for the UK. This is why I cover some aspects of what to look for when buying on-line, whatever country you're in.
A suggestion for your next "talking head" video - how to know whether a print lab is any good or not? Some labs offer A3+ glossy prints for £2 (excluding post and packaging). Sure, economies of scale can bring costs down, but £2 a print - really? Well, I'm dumbfounded. So, what to look out for in using print labs, especially if I wanted large prints, quality archivial paper and ink and so on. An added question - many labs only accept jpg images at 8 bits. JPG by itself is not an issue as you can have loseless compression. But what about the 8 bits part? Is there a visible loss in colour transition compared to 16 bit images?
Not from here I'm afraid - I've not used a third party lab since film days (25+years ago) 16 bit is a bit of a red herring IMHO If I'm editing images, then I want 16 bit - for printing, I've yet to see any real evidence that it makes the slightest difference that anyone can spot... It's a favourite of photography forums, not the real world ;-)