Oase Biomaster Thermo 850 (amazon): geni.us/Yzrg3UG Oase Biomaster Thermo 850 (ebay): ebay.us/7U6j4n Foams and Biohome Ultimate: www.filterpro.co.uk (FilterPro site has links to suppliers in other countries) White overflow pipe (21.5mm OD): geni.us/Fo9CqU (Or go to your local DIY store) Biomaster Pre-filter foams (Coarse 30PPI): geni.us/zABv Biomaster Pre-filter foams (Medium 45PPI): geni.us/LnZYLeB Biomaster Pre-filter foams (fine 60PPI): geni.us/L7lL Follow me on Odysee: odysee.com/$/invite/@PondGuru:0 The Oase Biomaster 850 canister filter is well designed, has excellent contact area for mechanical filtration in the removable 'pre-filter' and a decent provision for biological filtration - 5kg of Biohome Ultimate easily fit in this filter. Since it holds at least 5kg of biohome ultimate it is really suited to normally stocked tanks of up to 500 litres (132 US gallons) or heavily stocked tanks of up to 250 litres (61 US gallons) if you want to achieve a full cycle but bear in mind that the heater is 400W which makes it suitable for a tank up to 400 litres (105 US Gallons). 'Official' Oase Biomaster Canister Filter video: bit.ly/2OEkkVb A full cycle is completed by bacteria - the aerobic part of biological filtration which processes ammonia to nitrite and nitrite to nitrate followed by an anaerobic part which processes nitrate into soluble nitrogen which bubbles off to the atmosphere. Therefore it requires a suitable amount of excellent quality filter media to be able to provide the environment for both aerobic AND anaerobic bacteria - that is what Biohome ultimate does perfectly but even with such good media there are limitations and we recommend the following amounts for different stocking scenarios: (1 US Gallon = 3.8 litres) (1kg = 2.2 lbs) Average community tropical aquarium = 1kg per 100 litres Average coldwater aquarium = 1kg - 1.5kg per 100 litres Predator aquarium = 1.5kg - 2kg per 100 litres Large cichlid aquarium = 1.5kg - 2kg per 100 litres Malawi / Tanganyikan aquarium = 1.5kg - 2kg per 100 litres Marine aquarium = 1.5kg - 2kg per 100 litres Average mixed fish pond = 1kg per 200 litres Average koi pond = 1kg per 150 litres You may be disagreeing with the above figures but remember that they are for a FULL CYCLE not half a job - achieving 0 ammonia and 0 nitrite is quite easy since aerobic bacteria grows freely on any surface but the anaerobic bacteria responsible for COMPLETING the cycle needs more a specialized habitat. Size a filter properly, set it up sensibly and you will have perfect water - it's that simple....and your filter won't be the dreaded 'Nitrate factory'.....you'll spend less money on treatments too......basically the filter is the foundation of a successful aquarium. This series of videos is all about trying to squeeze more efficiency out of internal and external aquarium filters which generally have a limited filtering capacity - If you have a filter you'd like me to feature in a video then please contact me on: sales@filterpro.co.uk 07772848730 (Richard) Anyone who sends a filter (UK only at present) will have it upgraded and returned to them for free and the only cost you will pay is how much it costs to ship it to me - I'm helping to boost your filter and the resulting videos will hopefully be useful to viewers all over the world so it's a win/win. The following videos will be useful to anyone interested in learning more about filtration, bacteria and making the conditions for your fish as good as possible: Sizing a canister properly and filter set up: goo.gl/om19un Looking INSIDE different filter media: goo.gl/hZWS6c Bacteria and filter media: goo.gl/123gAF How to clean an aquarium: goo.gl/bPMhvh Aquarium tips / filtration playlist: goo.gl/pXgqVj This channel is purely a hobby for me so I will never ask viewers to donate money for any of my projects or charge anyone for information - information should be shared freely and I certainly don't consider myself an 'expert' in anything I pursue as a hobby so please do your own research, never accept anything as 'fact', reject anyone claiming to be some sort of authority or 'expert' and make your own minds up about anything you wish to study. We all are on a long path of learning......... RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS ON AMAZON: goo.gl/jMaBWy INSTAGRAM: instagram.com/pondguru_outdoors/ Follow me on Odysee: odysee.com/$/invite/@PondGuru:0 If you've enjoyed this video please check out the playlists on my channel for hundreds more - on a variety of subjects. Feel free to share or link any of my videos anywhere online for the benefit of anyone you think may also enjoy watching. See you next time. Pondguru
@@ukbushcraft7533 Other than stripping down the fitting and seeing if you can secure it better there isn't anything which springs to mind. It could be that the fitting is corroded so may need replacing. Oase should have spares if it does need replacing.
No worries and keep up the great work, man. Google doesn't send me any notifications and constantly unsubs me from the channels I am subbed to but I've seen loads of your videos and you do a cracking job - I really like any channels which produce educational videos.
I received my filter today and looks like someone from Oase watched this video. They have upgraded the pre filter with very coarse foam and now the tube goes out side as mentioned in this video so definitely bigger and holes are very large and all around
Great video....one point I would like to share with you, I had two 600s running in a 450 lt tank great filters but one problem to watch out for please make sure when you clean the main filter make sure when you turn filter on again only turn on the filter and not the heater at the same time, make sure the filter is running again before you turn on the heater because there is a big chance that the heater melts the inside of the filter rendering the filter useless the next time you try and clean the filter all the baskets are melted together, this happened to me on one of the 600 s which I had to replace it, it was only 2 months old so expensive mistake. I did ring oase but they didn’t want to do everything about it saying it was my fault.
That sounds like a design flaw IMO. I'm noticing that a lot of people are finding customer service pretty poor with Oase... Worries me a bit because I don't want to pay a lot of money without the peace of mind knowing that the company will pay up if something goes wrong.
I never understood why aquarium heater just doesn't have some heat fail-safe. If you leave a plugged-in heater above water it will overheat and get damaged or in this case damage the filter. How hard can it be?
In case someone haven’t mentioned it, you can buy different sponges for the prefilter,, fine, medium etc so you can select your preferred sponge for your needs
Thanks for the excellent review and advice. Just to clarify for folk, the overflow pipe you used is 21.5mm in the description but described as 20mm in the review. Don't go hunting for 20mm pipe without reading the description like I did. :)
If you have the patience you can fit 1kg in a tray. I managed to fit 4kg of Bihome Ultimate in my 600 version. Regarding the prefilter, I drilled extra holes as well but I love the fact that the 600 have finer sponges. I use a coarse sponge on the intake(this way I prevent my shrimps to be sucked in). I clean it weekly when I do water changes and the fines ones from the prefilter once a month. When I opened the filter after one year, I didn't even have to change the fine pad. Best filter ever.
What kind of fine pad do you use? Gauge/floss or the original pads provided by Oase? What’s your fish / plant load for the tank you are running with your 600? I do have gauze in mine and find I do have to change regularly (whenever I get around to it 😁) despite weekly pre filter changes. It’s a great filter but not a miracle worker lol? But if you are running it on a shrimp tank with low waste load then that might make sense?
@@justintechnic1995 sorry for the late response. I have that filter for a heavily stocked community tank: 10 Cory sterbai, 12 full red cardinals, 16 lambchops rasboras, 5 panda gara(btw amazing fish) , a couple of amano + bamboo shrimps,a lot of guppies, RCS - decent number but hard to count and a lot of trumpet snails (I throw away every month a lot of them). I used in the bottom drawer the orange sponge that was initially for the top compartment ( the one that is half size) and for the fine pads I bought from JBL filter floss (Symec).
@ Justin Technic, Are you still having to do weekly water changes? I thought that part of the idea of Biohome is that, after several months, the anaerobic bacteria handle the nitrates so much fewer water changes.
You have so much knowledge. We are glad you are willing to do the videos you do. I hope you get the chance to make a filter that doesn't need pimped up.
With the exception on the mechanical foams and the first filtermedia tray you could cut the bottoms of the rest of the trays out and glue them together to the first filtermedia tray to make one big compartment for filter media and get quite a bit more in
If I have to ask for one more thing, your videos would be perfect. Always show INTAKE AND OUTTAKE. That is always a factor that I also weigh in when I choose between different cannister filters.
Love your videos, man! Ive already pimped two of my filters (Eheim and Fluval ) exactly like you have suggested.. But not sure if I would want to go with your recommendations regarding Oase Biomaster prefilter foam... Sure fine foam in prefilter will clog more quickly, but its so easy to clean- and this is the main point . Changing the prefilter foam to a medium will make you to open the filter itself more often just to replace / clean the fine media inside . I think i'd rather clean the prefilter twice a month, but dont need to clean the rest of the filter for 2-3 months.
Bloody fantastic video mate. Just embarking on a new 315litre planted tropical tank and you have helped my filter decision making immensely. Quite pricey here is Australia but do it once do it right!
(my other channel) Groovy - it's good to know you can squeeze 6kg of the Biohome Ultimate into this filter - it's a great filter. Best of luck with the tank.
Does anyone else think he is just as adorable as he is knowledgeable? Came here to learn more about filtration for my aquariums and now I’m kinda crushin’ on this chap. 😂
Starting a Discus tank. Brilliant video, will certainly be pimping up the OASE 850 Thermo. Another video on water conditioners would be really helpful.
How's it going with your 850 Thermo? I'm in the market and am thinking about getting a 850 Thermo for my 225 gallon freshwater that I'm picking up next week. I'm concerned the heater may not be enough watts based on my 225 gallon tank, but I keep my house at about 66-68 degrees here in central Florida, so perhaps you'll give me your thoughts on that too.
Great video as always Richard, but I’m gonna be a bit argumentative. I use a 600T on a 126 litre community tank. Deliberate massive over filtration. I love the fine sponge on the prefilter AND the small pipe with not many holes. Why? Well the flow is more than enough for the size of my tank. I clean the prefilter weekly, I have spare sponges so just swap them, clean the mucky ones for next week. So I never have to touch the main filter body. Super quick easy maintenance. The trays are full of Biohome Ultimate I got from you, never need cleaning.
That's true enough for your tank but this is for the ones that aren't 👍 I know what you're saying but this filter will likely be used for far bigger tanks than you have and it's therefore designed to handle those AND yours 😀
For some reason it seems you guys are much more advanced than your cousins across the Pond. I enjoy watching I enjoy watching your pimping videos. Thank you for sharing.
No worries and I'm glad the videos are appreciated. I'm not sure about us being further ahead than the US but we have far fewer paid 'brand ambassadors' for the major aquatic companies so maybe that's why there is generally greater variety shown on UK channels?
Yupp a well planted tank is the best nitrate control. I have one tank with only sponges in my filter. I need to dose nitrate to keep my plants healthy. I like pondguru, but sometimes the "pimp my filter for 0 nitrates" is a bit silly...
The best nitrate reducer I found besides fast growing stem plants is Epipremnum aureum and similar above-water clinging plants. So if you have a non planted tank and want very low nitrates without constant water changes get these types of plants.
Great video, thank you for the well thought out rundown of the filter. I have a weird issue where I've setup my Oase 850 closely to how you've suggested where filtration is on the bottom. When you review the media trays at 14:40 you see they have a 30 PPI sponge on the top tray and four trays of 20 PPI sponges followed by the two trays of plastic filter media. You then discuss how the water flows from the bottom tray up through the top and recommend a medium pad and a fine pad on the bottom tray, BioHome media in the next 4 trays and leaving the 30 PPI sponge in place. I did that and what I'm finding is all the guck is showing up in the top PPI sponge and hardly any in the bottom tray. I looked at their website and it looks like their latest diagrams has water flowing through the top, through to the bottom then back up through the top. I agree this seems counter intuitive but would explain why my bottom sponges are basically clean. Am I doing something wrong or do you think this video needs correction and the media should be on the bottom trays similar to how Oase recommends? When I first looked at a water flow diagram it looked like it flowed from the bottom to the top but today their diagram suggests it's coming from the top. This image: cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2964/8010/products/77116_02_540x.jpg?v=1605904654 From this page: store.oase-usa.com/products/oase-biomaster-850 Anyway, thanks for the work you put into this and any feedback you can provide.
The flow in the photo goes down and back up the prefilter, then it goes down the side of the main housing and back up the inside of the trays and out the outlet. The medium and fine filters go in the bottom tray to catch all the muck so there is no muck in all the bio media. I don’t have this 850 yet but I did my FX4 after watching his video for that. I just opened it up and all my bio media looked brand new, just had to change out the fine filter right on the top and put it all back together. I probably could have left that FX4 for another 6 months 😂 I was surprised how clean it was. But I also added a large coarse prefilter sponge to the intake inside my aquarium which I remove and clean off every water change along with the floss in my HOB Tidal I have packed with only floss to polish the water which is once a week. If I use medicine in the tank I turn off the FX4 so I don’t kill all the bacteria. Then when I’m done with the medicine I take the floss out of the HOB and replace it with all carbon for 24 hours, replace the carbon for another 24 hours then put floss back in and turn the FX4 back on.
I'd think some black Lava rocks would look really good , but I have a feeling that you have something in the work ....XXL like the wood will work with pretty much anything you decide on and good luck with your new view !!! 👑
If you use the blue foams on the pre filter it’s better. Just rinse once a week or so. I have 3 biomasters and they are great. Would like a better flow rate though if I’m honest.
Oase did made a biomaster facelift, they changed the prefilter outlet for a new one with a lot of big holes, far away from what they gave with first version.
Wow that water conditioner advice really blew my mind!! I've always used Easy Life Filter Medium which has the white stuff inside that clouds the water.... indeed the bottle says it reduces ammonia! I think I'm going to switch to a conditioner that has none of that! Thanks Richard! :)
Did you settle on a new conditioner? I am hoping to find one following Richards above advice as well but haven't been able to find anything easily here in the U.S. yet.
I use Biohome and it works as a filter media-judged by fish being healthy. However, I have just replaced the Biohome in one of my 2 Biomasters for the following reasons. 1. It is beginning to deteriorate or at least it leaves a red sandy residue at the bottom of my filter and worry that it may be pushing it upwards through the impeller. 2. It is extremely heavy- the Biomaster is not light with just water alone, but this is too much like weight training 3. I wanted to increase flow through my filter and so wanted a less restrictive media 4. I have a heavily planted gravel tank so bacteria is everywhere assisting in filtration 5. watched kaveman aquatics video of his overstocked Cichlid tank with a cheap filter media 6. Read loads on ukaps site about benefits or otherwise of expensive media So now, filter media, are the foams that came with the Oase and plastic pot scrubbers. If the fish die off or the tank crashes, or the water parameters go off, I promise to revisit this comment.
(my other channel) In similar way to movement in transit the media can produce a fine 'dust' which is simply fine sand generated by media being rubbed together - usually when cleaning and since it is red that is very noticeable compared to 'dust' generated from more natural coloured porous media. The filter you have has the pump in the top so there's no chance of any fine sand (which is heavier than water) being drawn up through the filter into the pump. If you have a well planted tank then swapping from a high quality porous media capable of supporting a nation of bacteria for plastic / foams or hard ceramic rings will be no problem so I wouldn't expect to see any shock to the fish. Filtration is relevant to the situation and if you've got a well planted tank with a few fish the filtration can be minimal and still achieve water conditions considered 'good' by 90% of people - even if you've got a normally stocked tank and are happy to have high nitrate controlled by regular water changes (or artificially masked by the likes of 'prime') then that's all good too. The filtration only needs upgrading if you've got a lot of fish and are sick of large regular water changes to control the nitrate and keep conditions stable. Achieving a full natural cycle isn't something everyone aims for so the filtration can be as varied as the fish in the tank - just use what works for you and whatever you're happy with. If you're in the UK and ever want to ask anything just ring me any time, no worries - that's why I give my phone number out in all the video descriptions 07772848730 Regards, Richard
Hi, I have a suggestion based on a "again-I-have-to-change-the-filter" experiences. You generally comment on pump capacity with a "divide by two". A point at least as important is head height. In living room settings you wish to put the filter in the cabinet under the tank. From top to bottom that is (Juwel Amazon 350) 135 cm (maybe 40cm less to count for the filter size). The Oase 600 (flow rate 1250l/h) has a head height of 180 cm for a clean unloaded filter. With some load (prefilter, filter material) you can count yourself lucky if there's water coming out at the top. So I replaced my Oase 600 with an OASE 850 with a head height of 2.2m. Maybe a comment to consider (and very useful to re-entrants like me)
The Aquael Ultramax 2000 has got 4 baskets and a prefilter. By using 3 trays with 2 kg of Biohome will result in 6 kg. I´ve got the 1000 and the 1500 version. The 1500 is now 4 years old and so far there are no problems with it. They are both absolutely silent and built like tanks. Excuse my poor English.
Agree. I have a 2000 myself. Problem is the pump suddenly burned. Zero support from aquael. No response to emails. No availability of spare parts… once shit happens you are on your own…. I did love the filter though. One or two flaws but worked great.
Im using the 600 on my 65 gallon. If flow goes from the bottom to the top, shouldn’t the media be on top not on the bottom as it shows in the instructions. I switched it. I have Poly Floss on the bottom and the rest of the baskets are full of Seachem Matrix. I also used the spray bar for a few months. I just removed it because the flow wasn’t enough and I was getting algae. Thank you for the informative videos you have put out.
The 'media' Oase has for culturing bacteria is the foams and the hel-x in the bottom tray is to catch muck - unless the hel-x is in a moving bed it will hold almost no bacteria since plastic is a hostile environment for bacteria to colonize. If you're using low quality pumice ('matrix)in the trays then it will do a decent job, certainly better than ordinary gravel and as long as the stock is sensible the results should be OK - you should certainly have no ammonia or nitrite in the tank. As long as you avoid using any conditioners which mess with the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate which will starve the bacteria (e.g. prime) then the filter should work at the efficiency dictated by the quality of the media. Sometimes the pumice sold as 'matrix is OK and other times it is filled with useless grey or black rocks so it's very much a lucky dip.
Great video. It has been 3-years so, if you are still making videos, I hope one of your fans sent you an Excel Sheet which will auto calculate litters to gallons (US) and such. The latter is with a smile and wink. Thanks for helpful video!
I'm glad you found the video useful. My computer can't even read an Excel sheet, lol I have minimal programs on it to keep it running smoothly and my accountant deals with all the financial stuff. Even the invoices I send out are hand written - very backward, I know.... I try to de-google and de-microsoft my computers as far as I can.
Hi pondguru. Is there any documentation and or scientific records regarding this biohome media that remove nitrate? Im asking since you in your videos only refer to the feedback from the people who have bought it. I wold like to see the actual science behind the product, because if there is anaerobic bacteria on the inside of the media, how can the water flow fast enough through it to denitrify as fast or faster then the aerobic bacteria produces the nitrates? And where are the carbon compounds needed for the nitrate oxidation? I don’t want to be rude, but i wold think it would be some sort of documentation for the way this proses work in this media if the product does what you say it does.
The heater topic...... I watched a video of the 350 TBM the other guy left it installed in the head unit and lifted it up and out of the canister. All I could think about as he sat it down was that's just asking to be broke. It's a short-sighted thinking solution to a great idea. Really, a GLASS tube heater? Not a titanium one? This is where they thought they could save some money, keep the price down? They could have put a U.V. sterilizer in place of the heater or made it optional even if it was only 7-watts. The really smart heater option would have been a Titanium Plate like the Hygarr heaters. The space saved could have still allowed the U.V. Sterilizer option. If the U.V. option was left out it would have given more tray space as a bonus. The Prefilter Topic..... Another GREAT idea with poor thought. The other guy used his 350 and commented on how clean the other filter pads were and nearly everything was caught by the prefilter. That told me the pads were too fine and you need to service the prefilter often and the actual trays hardly ever. Great if you want nothing but Bio-media in the trays. I'm not sure if course pads in the prefilter is a good idea considering the flow of water is Prefilter ----->Heater------>Trays . Heater in the center of the trays would have been better. I'm not an engineer so why is it easy to see these "upgrades". The smart money is to buy the Bio Master because it has the heater compartment if you decide later, you want the Heat Up option. You could hot rod that heater compartment with another course filter pad and have a second "prefilter".
I cant justify buying the Biohome media. Here in Canada it would cost hundreds of dollars to fill that filter. I might combine Biohome with Marine Pure and Biomax. Thanks for your informative videos.
I hadn't considered my water conditioner would affect my bacteria... I started using Prime recently rather than aquasafe... seems ok, but that's definitely something to be mindful of thanks 👊🏻👍🏻
FishManc in the past I always used aquasafe, I moved and the local fish store doesn’t stock tetra products and focused on Fluval and seachem, I brought Prime used it once and instantly regret it it smells awful due to being sulphur based and it’s colourless so if distracted you couldn’t be sure if you added it. My tank is a large predator display with a MBU puffer so instead of getting aquasafe from a aquatic store I get it in bulk/5ltr bottle from Amazon. You can’t beat a hint of blue... take care mate.
@@mattphillips6714 I agree the colour does 'feel' better lol... I decided to use Prime because I saw good things about it and I don't mind the smell for a few seconds to be fair. I've used 1 bottle of Prime and although it's supposed to treat a lot I didn't think it went that far... maybe I was using too much... in fact I know I was overdosing... because 1 drop per 10 litres just doesn't feel right to me 🤷🏻♂️... I just worry about ammonia. I have 6 goldfish overstock in a 180l... I'm trying to get them a pond this year... then I'll get some smaller community fish I think.
Wish they would do a bigger one then the 850. They need. Do do a 1050 + model. Taller more trays able to take bigger heaters. Or have an heating element.
That will not work. The 850 is already 54 cm high, which is roughly the same as the Eheim 1200 (56 cm). With the hoses attached you will need ~70cm of clearance inside the cabinet. This barely fits an aquarium cabinet with standard height and will likely not fit the cabinet at all if you have sliding drawers. So, a larger model would need to wider not taller. Anyway, if you need additional flow get a second filter, not a bigger filter. You will have less noise, higher flow, and, as a bonus, you get a redundant system in case one of the filters fail.
Why not eliminate the holes in the pre filter pipe altogether and open up the bottom. That way the flow goes through all the foam instead of just one at a time. It probably will clog sooner but will be much more efficient plus the convenience of removing the pre-filter offsets that problem with frequent cleaning. Am I missing something?
Interesting about the this. I'm going to have to try the larger tube for the prefilter. I use Matrix instead of the sponges which the idea came from Green Aqua. The have you put the fine filter mesh as the last tray, opposite of what you said to do but I get it why you are doing it this way. Might have to try that too. Thanks mate.
If you put the floss in the bottom tray then you will have to clean the trays way more often. IMO, it is preferable to keep the medium (blue) sponges in the pre-filter with the wider tube with extra holes, and leave the filter floss in the top tray (similar to Green Aqua). In this way, it will be sufficient to clean the pre-filter every 1-2 weeks, the top tray every 2-3 months, and the rest of the trays with the bio media every 6 months or so. If you put the floss on the bottom tray then it will start clogging and reducing flow in a few weeks. In my case, I prefer to have to clean the pre-filter more frequently...
By plugging bottom hole of the pipe forces the top filters take the max flow and bottom gets less suction. If you want even suction leaving bottom hole would give you that result.
I'm surprised the fine filter goes to the beginning. That's the opposite to Oase's recommendation. Surely a world-class company wouldn't get it wrong? I can see where you are coming from but surely the fine filter will block up very quickly being first in the chain. Getting finer in progressive steps makes sense. Could you explain in more details why Oase is wrong and you are right. 💪👍
There is no right or wrong way as each way will suit a lighter / heavier stock. Having the fine foam sin the pre-filter is good if the tank is lightly stocked or you're willing to clean that section regularly. However if you go with the graded approach as shown in this video the cleaning times will be extended. but some people prefer to just clean out the pre-filter regularly. Either way is good.
No, I do not run the filters in this series of videos as they are not mine. They are sent in by viewers. However, the thin pipe with minimal holes in the pre-filter is an obvious source of restriction and that's why Oase has changed the design. If you look at the 'community' tab on my channel you'll find a picture of the new design. www.youtube.com/@pondguru/community It is a larger diameter pipe which has more holes drilled in it. The holes are also larger. If your filter is relatively new it may have the upgraded pipe.
Hey there, I have a suggestion. After watching multiple videos from your and other channels. Has anyone ever tried taking out the impeller and replace it with a bigger impeller?
I’ve noticed it traps air in the prefilter on new filters. After fiddling a bit with it, no more trapped air. Did you try tilting the filter back and forth?
@@Huipie81 yeah working on it with oase. That only does so much. You can shake it till you die of boredom. We replaced a few parts but I can come back in an hour and tilt it and it will be back. They made some modified parts. If you search hard you will find a lot of people have this. Oase know hence the impeller mod and the lack of holes in the pre filter tube. Support is good though. Just can't fix it
My Oase Biomaster Thermal 350 is the most perfect appliance in my whole house. It is as quite as my Apple desktop computer and I have never had the air purging problem that I read in the Amazon reviews. I wouldn’t modify a thing on it. PG puts out these videos without one iota of research or science based evidence.
Hi there, love the upgrades of all the filters and I've actually used your recommendations on the APS 2000EF+UV and now this 850! I've redone the prefilter pipe and I'm using mat with cable ties 😉 my issue now is after I've cleaned the actual canister after a month of no problems I've got a load humming noise now I've turned it back on??? No air as no bubbles??? Any advice would be appreciated 🙏 thanks for the help over the years aswell 👍
I live in Valrico, Florida. Where is my closet dealer? Would a 600 Oase Canister Filter be the right size for a 75 Gallon Aquarium? Thank you for sharing.
I've no idea where your nearest dealer is unfortunately since I live in the UK but there should be a dealer list on the US version of Oase's website. The 600 will be fine for a normally stocked 75 US gallon (285 litre) tank but if the stock is greater than a normal set up (e.g. cichlids, discus, goldfish would be classed as heavy stock) then the 850 would be a better choice since it easily holds 5kg of media
i got 7 kilo's in witout the bottom for fine wat end a medium pond foam, end on te top the original oranje spons end a bit of filterwat. so i am don it wilhout the bootom tree and wihoudt thr top and yes 7 kilos in.
(my other channel) Basically anything but Prime since that one has a pronounced starving / retarding effect on the bacteria population. I made a video specifically on water conditioners here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1YCtMYZQlig.html and anything which doesn't mess with the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate will be fine (e.g. API Stress Coat, Tetra Aquasafe and any 'normal' water conditioners)
Any normal water conditioner will allow the bacteria to flourish no problem. Just avoid anything which claims to remove / bind / detoxify the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. The one I always recommend is API Stress Coat since I've never heard any of problems maturing the system while using that one. The conditioner associated with the most problems is Prime (since it starves the bacteria) and unfortunately users get tricked into using additional products to mask the side effects of messing with the food bacteria need (ammonia, nitrite and nitrate) - it is a pharmaceutical business template I do not agree with since the only beneficiary is the company selling all the unnecessary 'treatments' and it's a real bummer since some of their other products are genuinely good. If you want to check for problems associated with Prime just look at any forum or online group page where people are struggling to cycle their tank and read what the common factor in those cases is. Unfortunately nobody giving advice to people struggling to cycle the tank recognizes that fact and will simply parrot the 'advice' of using extra products to rectify the situation. I prefer to tackle the cause and eliminate the effect instead of masking the effect and ignoring the cause.
Hi pondguru, Ive been wondering if the oase biomasters pre-filter could be used as a moving bed filter? Maybe with the plastic media that comes with it. I use a sponge on the intake anyway as have shrimp and snails aswell as fish so no big debri gets passed. Would love to know your thoughts and suggestions :-) Cheers
Thanks for the clear explanation and the brilliant idea. What is your experience with the sound the biomaster makes? I know someone who took out all the sponges to make it quieter. I have a eheim that hums and am thinking of buying the oasis because of the convenience. But to end up with annoying noise again is a bit stupid
I don't run the filters as they don't belong to me but reports from users say they are quiet apart from the trapped air issue but that is vastly reduced by setting it up with media instead of foams. (foams trap far too much air after cleaning)
I use seachem prime and I always have high nitrates, I have a Fluval 406 all 4 trays rammed with bio home ultimate, it is a 180 litre planted tank but I don't dose nitrates, I'm going to use a different conditioner, and see if that helps. thanks for the tip.
I'm not sure what is happening to my replies but this will be the third time I've tried to answer this comment (with both my channels) - the comments keep vanishing. Yes, using a normal conditioner will allow the bacteria to fully populate the filter (and whole aquarium system) but it may take weeks or even months for the starving effects of 'prime' to wear off - as long as there is plenty of media for the size of tank and nothing is holding back the bacteria a full cycle is perfectly achievable. Feel free to ring me any time on 07772848730 Regards, Richard
@@pondguru ok, ill bear in mind that it can take a while for the effects to wear off , hopefully, that is what is causing the high nitrates.. yes the 406 is rammed full of bio ultimate from your good self. ill keep you posted on the results. Cheers Richard.
Hi Pondguru Have you actually measured the flow rate before and after modifying the pre-filter intake pipe and, if so, what were the results? I'm not an expert, but think that the combined diameter of the 20 original holes would be sufficient to ensure the proper flow rate that the impeller inside the filter is designed to handle. I'm not sure whether increasing the theoretical intake capacity results in the impeller discharging equally more, especially without knowing the diameter(s) of any components within the pre-filter head assembly. Would too many holes not decrease the discharge flow rate without increasing the impeller speed/voltage? Apart from that, the Oase Biomaster is an excellent filter.
Im sure there is a youtube vid of someone testing this (can't remember who it was) and the result was there was hardly any difference if any in flow rate. Also if your going to be drilling holes in the supplied pipe on a new filter, there's a good chance of voiding the warranty I reckon.
I can confirm the new inlet tube is like swiss cheese now, do you guys think these are ok for 350litre community tank ? Bit concerned about the low flow
For a 350 community tank it will handle that no problem as long as you upgrade the filter as outlined in this video - with the foam only set up it's pretty much useless for larger tanks (and the mass of foams causes problems with air discharge). The flow isn't really an issue since the set up of the filter is way more important than the turnover rate. It's good to see that Oase have (finally) upgraded the pre-filter pipe ..... it only took them 3 years, lol
Hello good afternoon, What is your opinion about Sera's Siporax ceramics? I would love to know what you think. I have 1 Oase 250T that I made an improvement following your directions, but I added 2 liters of Siporax ceramics.
