Thanks for this video. I inherited a PL-112 from my parents, and the funny thing is Kiss "Alive" was played on my PL-112 a lot when I was a kid. Cheers!
Thanks , nicely done. I had to break out my Pioneer PL-570 back up and now can go to work on my PL- 112 D. It has the skating problem across the record. We can do this thanks to you.
I just picked up a PL-112D for $40. It plays and sounds good, but has a couple of minor issues. The most notable is the tonearm lift doesn't bring the tonearm up high enough. The second issue is a clicking noise I get once every rotation of the table. If I move the speed control lever slightly off the full forward position, it goes away....so I'm betting the suspension needs adjustment. I watched your whole video, and I'm ready to tackle it. Thanks so much for taking the time to make this
Thanks for the video! I just picked up one of these locally from a friend. Thanks for the info on the suspension springs, as the ones in mine seem to be weak. Ordering a new belt for it now.
Excellent choice of music, I knew when I saw the Casablanca label it was Kiss or Donna Summers. Anyway that's some good straightforward information and I did struggle repairing a similar JVC la-11 as the B-B bearing was missing. A regular BlackBerry was too large. However I had an old bearing from an old swimming pool pump. I opened it up and now I have an endless supply of TT bearings. My first attempt at repairing a TT I assumed grease was in/on the platter shaft. I found out that oil is the only lube and a very minimal amount at that. Thanks for the video. Subscriber now.
Got it today for $40. Cleaned up,lubed, works great. Was $59.95 got for $40 cash. Got new Gemini CN15 cartridge. All i need is the tonearm clip as its broken.
I had the rubber problem with a cassette deck, I did not use any sading paper. Mere alcohol was enough to get all the greasy rubber off. Additionally, instead of using fine steel wool I would suggest something like Brasso to reduce scratches to the surface of the arm. All in all very nice video, thanks for the detailed explanation.
I have two PL-112D turntables that work remarkably well for their age. They are simple, no nonsense turntables that I have really gotten my money's worth out of. I have a third one that, unfortunately, got the FedEx mad gorilla treatment and now is missing both the tonearm and the dust cover. I kept it just for the minor parts that are still usable. Maybe one day I might run across a replacement arm and can put it back in service for somebody to have. Most people do not like to play records as I do, one at a time, but for me, these old Pioneers are just perfect. I traded a PL-115 in on the second PL-112D because I didn't like hearing the sound of the end-of-record mechanism always coming through just before the end of the last song. There was no way to adjust the turntable so it worked correctly and still didn't make that sound. If you're wearing headphones it is quite annoying.
The shaft should not come out with the platter. Screw and stop plate are missing. The spindle has a gentle taper. If it is very tight, lift up the plattter just 1/8 inch (wedge it underneath evenly). A sharp tap on the top of the spindle should release it.
Thanks man! I've got a pl-117d that drags on the record during the return. Maybe now I can fix it,a little leary about bending anything but if I must. Will let you know how it goes.
I just picked up this exact turntable and the coiled wire that goes from the up/on-up/down had come out of its housing in the area where the switch raises and lowers the tonebar. Considering there were only 5 screws in the bottom, it seems the previous owner went into the underside of the unit to investigate/fix it. It looks like they tried to jam the wire back into the housing and in process stretched the wire out a bit. I can't tell if the unit actually works yet since I have a headshell and cartridge coming to me. Should I look into replacing that coiled wire since it's damaged? It's definitely not broken, but I try to err on the side of careful with that sort of thing. I won't know how well it operates until the headshell and cartridge are on it to weigh down the front of the tonearm. Just curious.
Thanks for the tutorial! You mentioned that you’ve done a few tonearm wire replacements in the past. Do you have any videos/tutorials of those? I just purchased a vintage Goldmund Studietto with a Datum II tonearm. The left channel is not working; turns out that one of the wires has no continuity (checked with multimeter). Looks like I’ll have to rewire. Disassembling the tonearm looks a bit tricky. Any recommendations?
I have one of these myself, and need to change the audio cable. Did you actually manage to thread that tiny single audio wire conduct back the way it was - that looong way around? When I replaced the defect original RCA connectors earlier on the original wire, I found it very hard not to break it, and being hard to work with... But seeing as there seems to be no original cable on Ebay at the moment, maybe I'll go for a multi-strand core replacement... I guess I could just keep the old ground wire.
Hello, I have a turntable equal and i'm restoring. I would like your help. It's missing the cylinder counterweight hanging over the side of the arm . On the back. I wonder how much in grams and the size so I can do an equal. Congratulations on the turntables. I hope to make my as good as this. Thank you (sorry my english by Google)
I have a couple questions if you don't mind answering if a turntable has set for years with out being played would you recommend giving everything a good lubing? My second question is I know you replaced the RCA cables with ones from another table but could you use any quality RCA, like the kind that have a male connector on both ends and just cutting one end off?
Pimpo168 Yes, a good lubing is always a good thing. Watch a few of my turntable videos on how-to. On the RCA cables, yes you can use "most" cables and cut the ends off one end and wire up. You will find some that don't work out well that way but the majority do. Make sure you get ones flexible enough and small enough to route inside the table. Big thick cables don't often work out well due to this.
Nice video on the basic disassembly and repair. I have one of these on my bench right now that is about 1.0-1.5 RPM too fast. There are no manual speed adjustments, so I am not sure exactly how to remedy this. I took the motor apart, cleaned and lubricated to the bearings. Removed the spindle, cleaned inside the shaft, cleaned the small ball bearing, relubed and reassembled. I then cleaned the belt, the inside rim of the platter where the belt rides and the motor pulley. After all of that, it is still a little fast. Any ideas?
I cringed when I saw steel wool on the tonearm. I have a trick I use on detailing auto chrome and that is to use aluminum foil. A wadded up piece of aluminum foil cleans up rust and tarnish on bumpers and trim. I have used it on tonearms before with dazzling results. Try it when polishing faceplates and knobs. I use other automotive detailing products on my stereo equipment. A great product is Back To Black for rubber speaker surrounds. I like Mothers Aluminum Polish for faceplates. I'm always careful to follow the "grain" of the brushed aluminum finish on faceplates.
Hi. I have a PL 12d with the same motor mount. The motor is ment to hang below, seated on top of the rubber bushes with a gap between the top of the motor and the top plate, not be pushed up against the top plate. Otherwise you bypass part of the motor decoupling design.
hi I have a pioneer pl12d turntable sometimes it plays too slowly for a few seconds and sometimes the platter almost sounds like it is going to come to a halt I changed the belt and this made it worse I oiled the oil hole as recommended and this was fine initially but now it is back to playing slowly
Hey, I have a Pioneer PL-117D turntable in the mail and for some reason, the platter keeps hitting the motor pulley when the rubber mat is on. If I were to take it off, I don't have that issue. Any suggestions on how to fix that?
+Mastersabersmen Here is my best educated guess without seeing it in person. When you remove the platter (which involves removing a set screw on the bearing well from underneath, and lift the platter out, there should be a small stainless round bearing about the size of a bb in the bottom of the well. If this is missing, you will have what you are experiencing. If its missing, you just need a small ball bearing and drop in there.
late to story - from an old magazine I have - Pioneer PL 112 - $ 100. Manuel. PL 115 - Semi. PL 117 full auto. $150. compare similar belt drive Duel CS510 - $ 40. more. specs - Pioneer wow / flutter .07 %, rumble 63 db. duel .05 / 66. the more expensive direct drive models , Pioneer PL510 w/f .03 , rumble 68 db. try finding specs today. I still use my 117 a couple times a month for kicks but greatly prefer concert video DVD if it's Grateful Dead /Oregon or Anna Netrebko /La Traviatta. greatly appreciate the tips, I''ve only changed the belt & cartridge from Stanton 681eee to Ortofon 2mblue. my 72 year old ears can't tell any diff.
PS Spindle should remain in situ!? Suspension is much better at other end of the range where it will have most effect stopping feedback. Worth taking time to adjust spring rates to ensure speed controller and motor work with clearance. The lift lower should not be affected. You can try a couple dollops of motor oil in the main bearing to remove the slack, which there will be in these units.
My turntable pl-117d had grease on the shaft, not oil. I suspect that maybe why your belt disintegrated. Some rubber (natural) might react with oil. Plus oil will creep and pentrate (move) in areas you might not want. Use a light greas like reel lube.
I have a Pioneer PL-112D that I've had for years and have a sentimental attachment to it, so I want to keep it. But it's started playing slightly fast (like 35.5 rpm), and I can't find any way to adjust the speed. Any ideas on how to fix that?
Thanks a lot, I just bought a pioneer pl-15r and I can’t get it to turn on. Does it have a kill switch or something else that I am missing? Please advise thanks
Sorry...doh.. The only other thing that seems to have a significant effect on performance for whatever reason is ensuring the P-clip firmly holds the arm cable and is dressed to allow free movement. This is always a point to watch with suspended systems. The Linn LP12 was very fussy about this for instance. Make sure all fixing are firmly tightened..Was there a screw missing from the main bearing? That would be dodgy.
For a free gigantic upgrade to this and many similar Japanese decks of this era, a careful liberal application of a damping material like plasticene to the outer internal edge of the platter stops it ringing like a ships bell and adds mass where it is required to stabilise speed. Obviously the mat helps damp it, is very easy to do, totally reversible. The extra weight is well inside that where motor or bearing would complain and I guess adds well over 100% to the rotational mass where it needs it. It is easy to be careful and ensure balance, but at these speeds it is a non issue. I've been doing it since 1980 on these with a single colour plasticene. It gets a bit hard after ten years! Check yours and see...Maybe I was there. The improvement to stability and quality is very obvious. The platter is the poorest part of these units. If you wanted to ensure balance some bearings will allow you to spin the platter sans belt or mat at 90 degrees or you can make something similar.
the vintage gear does need some attention at times but for the most part the are all built like tanks and nothing much ever goes wrong with them and kenwood is a great brand as far as there vintage gear goes and the same with turntables tape decks reel to reels 8 track decks and tape decks cassettes decks . and most of the gear today really should be banned from production. great job
I agree with you. Those older units were really tough and well built. A little maintenance and they'd last seemingly forever. I do not like any of the new stuff coming out now. Too flimsy and not much real quality...throw away junk, mostly. I still have these two PL-112D's, two TEAC reel-to-reels, a couple of 8-track players, and all of it vintage equipment that works as good as when they were built...just kept up on the maintenance.
Hey I have this exact TT and I'm having very extreme skipping issues. It'll play for a few moments and just skip across basically the entire record. I've balanced the arm, set the weight to 1.5 and the anti skating function is matching. I don't know where to start fixing this, could it be the needle? I just don't know and it's making me insane! If you want, I can post a video of the issue! Thanks in advanced!
Have you checked to see if the tonearm is coming all the way down? There is an adjustment for that and if it is off by even the slightest bit it will give you the symptoms you are describing. Plus, as has been mentioned by Rostro27, you might check the lubrication of the arm's component parts.
My arm dosent go down it seems the counterweight is too heavy what should i do? The thing undernith moves up and down but the arm it self just stick right up.
Scot MacQueen is the counter weight the right way around? Does it have a different headshell? Does the arm move freely past the platter nearly touching the plinth if you move it by hand without it sticking? If none of this applies to you! Try getting a penny and sticking it on the headshell and then set your weight for your cartridge. If the weight isn't the wrong way round maybe you've got the wrong weight?
16:08 "If I hadn't wrote these down and labelled them I'd be in trouble right now and I'd be doing lots of research on the internet for the next hour or two" would you not just look at the video you had already shot with the old wires in place...
Ahhh. Don't sand the motor capstan (the pulley on the motor) unless you're sure it's too fast and you need to slow it down. Too slow and you'll make the problem worse! Just a cotton pad and some isopropyl alcohol will clean it just fine.
