The Lanshan 1 is a great value lightweight backpacking tent for wild camping. But it can be tricky to pitch it nicely. Discover the secrets for a great pitch every time!
@Long Suffering Hiker - Replace the bath tub cord with 60cm of bungy cord (looped) which is attached to the tensioner cords of the fly. That way you get perfect tension of the bath tub floor by just adjusting the outer fly. 👍🏼
Hi mate, used all your tips on a 10-day hike in Northern Sweden (Padjelanta/Sarek) and weathered some high intensity winds and some rain. Perfect pitch every time and no issues with the wind! Cheers!
Thankyou for this! I've thought of some of these mods, but the door toggle as an attatchment for the inner was brilliant. Anything that gives more space to the inner is very useful.
Very Good info how to get a better set up a pitch. Your tent is able to remove the inside, mine is sown in and can not remove it, wish they added that to the Pro! I own this tent and the 6moons Tent, I like the Lanshan 1pro since it has a full zip opening and it had a Brown color vs the Grey.
ive got the j zip one plus and i used to pitch it another way til it dawned on me that for the sake of 4 extra stakes it'll pitch a lot better. so many were focused on the inner and fly on 1 peg i think they didnt see it. its definitely a better way and i do it on my 2 non pro also. definitely will try the pole placement as never considered it at all once up 🙂
Good luck!! Have you checked out my suggested mods? - they can make a big difference :-) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-G_jP3JjWHFU.html
@@longsufferinghiker Nice, but one qs... in the modifications video you are putting the inner cordline direkt to the outer pegs. is this option the better one ??? hope for a answer. Or does it not matter to pitch it to the same pegs as long I set up the outer first???
Putting the inner guyline to the outer pegs means you need 4 fewer pegs 🙂 and it means that the inner and outer can go up together in one operation if you clip the guylines together. But it is good to be able to separate the guylines in case you want to use the inner or the outer on their own. Also you need to be able to adjust the inner lines to get a good pitch. I hope this helps! Good luck 😉
I find using a footprint not only provides protection for the inner, but by matching the tent corners to it, it makes the whole erection process much simpler and quicker.
I totally agree 🙂. My next video about the Lanshan will be suggested mods, including a DIY Polycro footprint, and a neat footprint attachment. It’s being edited now…
Very good explanation. However, your method requires 5 additional pegs. Normally you attach the 5 points of the inner tent to the same pegs as the outer tent. It would be interesting to know whether this achieves the same result
For this video I tried to stick with the original setup as it comes from the factory. But I agree that the pegs for the inner are unnecessarily. In my modifications video I suggest a way of connecting the inner and outer to the same peg; ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-G_jP3JjWHFU.htmlsi=gX-V29lBG79m4lRY
Great video. After owning this tent for 4 yrs, I was just ready to sell off this tent as i can never get it pitched correctly. But will give one more chance with some help from your videos. My biggest problem is the mesh laying on my face when sleeping.
It's a tricky tent to pitch well, but I hope my ideas help you. The most common cause of the inner sagging is that the pole is set too low. I have also made a video of modifications to the tent that will help you: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-G_jP3JjWHFU.html
@@longsufferinghiker Thanks! I'll be anxious to try pitching with your tips as soon as the ground dries a little more. I'm quite certain I have a defective tent though. I'll let you know how it goes.
Very clear video. I'm considering the Lanshan 1 since I only use one pole when walking. But I confess that the Durston XMid1 appeals too: about the same weight, much more room, better materials and "only" twice the price(but I need to carry an extra pole). EDIT: I just noticed that Durston sell a very cheap and very light adjustable pole for single-trekking-pole users. It's much lighter and cheaper than a regular trekking pole but it looks strong. (Because it's extendable it can be used with non-Durston tents too - like the Lanshan 2...)
Good point. 2 poles creates a lot more internal space; I use the Lanshan 2 most of the time and it’s much easier in poor conditions, despite 400g more weight. The Durston is cool, but not sure how it would stand up to a blustery night in Wales!
@@longsufferinghiker Your videos are amazing,,, the amount of fine tuning ! Thank you !! BTW... "....; I use the Lanshan 2 most of the time and it’s much easier in poor conditions..." My best guess is that youre saying that for constant rain, without winds,, when you have to be inside the tent for a longer time, with equipment, and change clothes, prepare food.... dont ? Im afraid of strong WINDS, and I believe the smaller lanshan 1 is much stronger in this scenario ?? ...or Am i wrong ?? which one would you pick for winds ?
Yes, well the shape of the Lanshan 1 will shed the wind more effectively, BUT there’s a lot more of the heat inner that’s adjacent to the outer, and so you’ll be affected by buffeting a lot more. In windy/rainy conditions I would go for the Lanshan 2; it performs very well in the wind, in fact better than most tents with geodesic poles, because the walking poles are always much stronger than long flexible tent poles.However it has to be pitched well, and firmly pegged out. I’m on my way to Wales for 3 nights and the weather forecast says gusty wind and showers, so I’ve got the L2 with me. Enough said! 😁
Thanks for a great video. Sadly I undid the knot on the main guide line. Anyone know the distance on it so I can make a new one... Should have watched this video first.
To be honest, you’re better off getting rid of the guyline that’s supplied, and replacing it with a different arrangement. It’s a very well known modification. Details are in my modifications video; Lanshan 1 backpacking tents - try these 16 modifications ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-G_jP3JjWHFU.html
Hi.... this is indeed an excellent video... have just bought a second hand Lanshan 1 Plus which had only been used a couple of times and is in good nick.. apart from The Undone Knot aaaargh.... Is there a way to work out how far out the guy should go..say from the base of my 125cm pole before being moved forward?
Thanks; I’m glad you found the video helpful 🙂 About ‘the knot’… I really wouldn’t worry about it, as the most common modification to the tent is to do away with the factory guyline setup with the infernal ‘rams head’ clip, and replace it with a standard guyline and door bungees. I detail this in my modifications video; Lanshan 1 backpacking tents - try these 16 modifications ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-G_jP3JjWHFU.html
Thanks! There are 4 more videos on the way, just as soon as I get some time once the summer holidays are over ;-) As for the Pro/Non-Pro choice; it depends a lot on the atmospheric conditions when you are camping. If it is warm and low humidity then the Pro version would be OK, because there'll be less of a condensation issue. However, in cooler and humid weather (such as the UK!!) I personally would always go for the Non-Pro, especially if my sleeping bag is insulated with down and needs to be kept dry. It would certainly be worth the small weight penalty. Also, if you are using it in Winter then the Non-Pro with a 4-season inner is the only practical option. I hope this helps!
Great videos on the Lanshan 1/2 set ups. I’ve been looking into getting one and these vids have helped a lot. Very clear and helpful. What software do you use for editing YT? 🙂
I am not a lanshan owner but found your instruction informative and interesting - I am a bit geeky like that though. Strangely enough I was watching a female you tuber the video before this & she was also out in a lanshan 1 and she was having a problem with a droppy front bit (I kid you not, lol) I think she might find your info useful , atb Al
Yes, that’s an option. Just hook up the inner to the top of the walking pole, and then peg it out. You’ll also need a guyline running forward. simples 😁
Excellent video. Can you provide information on where the knot of the front door guyline is excatly (maybe measurements)? Mine came without the knot in the guyline and I have a hard time getting it set up nicely..
Start with the knot loop at 25 inches/64cm from the rams head clip. But many people ditch the factory set-up and replace it with a separate guyline and bungees at the bottom of the doors. I’m currently editing a video of modifications for the Lanshan 1 that includes this; it’ll be published soon! 🙂
@@longsufferinghiker Cheers mate. I was wondering about that modification video since you mentioned it in this video. I just thought it would probably be similar to your Lanshan 2 mod video so I just watched that :D Glad to hear you do another one for the Lanshan 1 (y)
Thanks for the helpful detailed video! With regards to pole height, I'm a little vertically challenged and my hiking poles are 110cm. Do you think this tent would be usable with that?
I think that will be a problem, unfortunately. The tent works best with a pole height 120 - 125cm. It is possible to pitch as low as 110cm, in fact I sometimes do it if the weather is bad, but the inner will sag a lot. I have heard of pole ‘extenders’ available for trekking pole tents, or switch to adjustable length poles? In any case, my suggestions for modifications will also help ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-G_jP3JjWHFU.htmlsi=4Gj-t3aUFdlubIx5
@@longsufferinghiker Thanks, will check out that video! I just found out about those pole extenders; I'll try DIY it with a length of tube and see if that works.
Hi just wondering what you set the bottom of your hiking pole to? Your videos are really helpful thanks so much. I have the 2 and thought I would try the 1 but it feels quite small with the inner fly after the 2
Thanks Cath. I start with the pole at 125cm. Certainly no lower, as this would make the inner sag a lot and seem even smaller! I use the 1 in summer when I’m not going to be spending a lot of time inside it, and I can keep the doors open so it feels less claustrophobic. But I do like the smaller packed size, and the lighter weight. I’m currently working on a video of suggested modifications for the 1, which might help a little.
@@longsufferinghiker sorry I’m not explaining myself well lol do you set both the top and bottom of the poles at that height or the bottom where it says stop and the top at 125? Thanks so much for replying. I’m about to do the sagging inner mods. Im out on the Great North Walk (Sydney to Newcastle 270 km) soon, doing 1-3 day sections :)
The critical question is the total length of the pole. For the total to be 125cm long then all of the pole adjustments should be set at that length. Alternatively 120 & 130 would achieve the same total length. But it’s worth checking with a tape measure and see what works best for you. Be aware that in soft ground the poles will sink in more, so allow extra length. Have a great trip!!
My pitching gets better, but the outer fly is very low to the ground so there is not much of ventilation. I used 125 cm, but it looks like it is set to 120 in your video. Apart from double checking the pole height - can you think of any other error I might make to have the fly too low? (Mind... It held up perfectly in heavy rain. Not a single drop anywhere though condensation was heavy, too.)
Hmmm that’s interesting. Yes, I think first check the actual pole length. Next, is the ground soft, so the pole is sinking in a lot? Try experimenting with different pole lengths to see what difference it makes. Also, the 5 peg out straps should be set as long as possible, to get maximum clearance (in bad weather I have them short to reduce the gap). Condensation is usually inevitable; it’s just the atmospheric conditions. Just carry a sponge or cloth and mop it down in the morning. Good luck; let me know how you get on! 🙂
@@longsufferinghiker Thanks Charles for your fast reply. Ground was indeed a bit soft. Tension straps too short .-) Condensation didn't bother me. I had a cloth and mope it down.
Hello. I am trying this on my back lawn which slopes slightly so getting j shape at back. Any tips for uneven ground. Also I did remove the loop on the front guy before reading this . I can see it is to keep the guy in place and stop the tent falling down when you use the doors and I have used your film to make another loop. Is it really super precise? And finally the groundsheet guys are a set length and not loops like you show…. Do you reckon it matters? Should I make loops? I am abandoning some of the red pegs
Hi Helen. If you're on uneven ground then you can explore setting the poles at different lengths; perhaps set the pole higher to avoid the 'J' shape. I often set the poles at different lengths, especially in windy weather when I want the windward side to be lower and closer to the ground. Anything between 110cm and 130cm is possible, so I would just experiment and see what difference it makes. That's why it's such a good thing to test it in the back garden before you use it in the hills :-) The main guyline that comes from the factory needs the loop set at the correct distance to that the doors are tensioned nicely, but if you use the suggested modification for a separate guyline plus bungees for the doors then it isn't critical, and you can have a nice long guyline which gives a better direction of tension. I think it's much better to have loops with adjusters for the bottom corners of the inner; -It's a big help on stony group because it gives more possibilities for the peg location - It allows for some degree of adjustment to make sure that the gap between the inner & outer is the same on all corners. I hope this helps. Good luck!
Don’t worry. You _could_ just re-tie the knot, with a bit of trial and error to get the position right. But TBH the factory guyline set-up is a bit rubbish and many people change it anyway. It’s better to have a separate, longer, main guyline and bungees for the doors. I detail it in my modifications video Lanshan 1 backpacking tents - try these 16 modifications ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-G_jP3JjWHFU.html Good luck!
How do you close both of the vestibule flaps when you are inside of the tent? I found that to be very difficult, and I am not sure if I am doing it wrong.
Yeah, that's a problem with the Lanshan design; the large vestibule means that it's a loooong stretch to reach the zips. I tend to leave one flap fully out & attached to the peg, then pull the zip down in order to close the other door. But it's impossible to reach without adopting a strange yoga-type pose. The 'rams head' clip that is supplied as standard for the bottom of the doors makes it harder & is extremely fiddly (especially with cold fingers), so the most common modification is to use bungees at the bottom of the boors instead. I'm currently editing a video about modifications to the Lanshan 1 that includes this, but it's already included on my Lanshan 2 modification video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-b95uPpaorBo.html at 03:03
Yes, I agree that the L1 is only for better weather when you can open it up, but there’s a significant weight and bulk difference. My next video will be a detailed look at the difference
What I mean is that in better conditions you can leave the doors open, to avoid the claustrophobic feel. And sit with your feet sticking forwards out of the tent. In bad weather it would feel very cramped.
