An old customer sent me a link to this channel about a week ago. I’ve only watched a few of his vids but from what I’ve seen this gentleman knows what he’s talking about.
Thank you for this video! I had sloppy steering after adding a 2" lift on my JK. I did have the relocation brackets, so I took them off and went with an adjustable front and rear track bar. VIOLA! Problem solved! I'm so glad I watched this video because I was also contemplating a drop drag link. Glad I avoided that hassle! Keep up the good work and awesome videos!
@@dannyestrada4684 this Jeep was one we fixed for a dealership awhile back. Not sure I recall the lift height. When going to a 4" or above, we highly recommend doing a drag link flip kit and raised track bar bracket. Watch our "Steering Geometry" video here on our RU-vid channel.
I wish I had watched this video months ago. I have like everyone else been struggling with steering and front-end wandering issues since I have owned my jeep. This guy nailed it! along with castor adjustment! Great video can't wait to tell others of your video.
So happy to help! We get this issue a lot in our shop and sadly, many of the Jeeps built by local off road shops wind up here for these geometry issues. You're certainly not alone! But hopefully on the right track for a good ride!
@@PlatinumOffRoad So I have a 2020 jeep Gladiator with this problem, it looks like a 6" lift maybe. the pitman arm, tracking mount on the axle and the tracking arm look like they are part of the lift kit. Do I need to replace all 3 of them back to stock, or do I keep the adjustable tracking arm and just replace the pitman and track bar mount to stock?
@corypeterson602 the new JL and JT platform benefits from the drag link flip once you break that 5" lift range. Grab a set of Reid knuckles and do the flip. It'll be a game changer. You'll also need to raise the track bar, just like the video shows. That Reid part # is DBP-JL001R-F
I'm in the process of removing that exact kit! I was concerned about the number of threads showing after installing an OEM one until I saw this vid - thanks for sharing!
The death wobble zone for my 09 JK was 50 - 55 mph. I just replaced the 15 years old steering components and everything seems to be a lot tighter, hitting bumps doesn't generate the kind of harshness anymore. Hopefully this will fix the problem for a few years down the road.
My steering is binding up could this be the purpose thanks. I recently bought the jeep it already had a lift. It's weird it's intermediate the steering shaft was poorly modified I also just bought a replacement home this is the case
Help me out here...in this video you say “get rid of the raised track bar bracket” then later in the video you reference your geometry video. In that video you install a kit and it has issues in the test drive and you end up installing a raised track bar bracket lol I don’t have any death wobble, but I have a drifting issue where I drift left and right a little bit and have to battle staying in my lane as I drive down the highway at speed, so I’m trying to do my own diagnosis and solve the issue....obviously researching off RU-vid video, and this had me scratching my head
Your drifting is most likely due to the caster setting. If it's a lifted Jeep, get the caster up in the 5-6.5 degree range and it will tame the tracking. Lower front adjustable control arms will do this for you. As for the raised track bar bracket... one Jeep did NOT have a flipped drag link. In the other video, we flipped the drag link and therefore to compliment the geometry, we also needed to reposition the track bar to match the radius planes. Allowing both the track bar AND drag link to flow in two separate radius that actually do not fight one another and cause bumpsteer. The issue with all the lift kits giving you a raised track bar bracket that goes on the axle side, is that they do not give you a drag link flip. These are sold separate from one another but often not explained that a raised track bar bracket is only done when also doing a drag link flip. To do one and not the other is going to cause conflicting radius of each component and ultimately bumpsteer.
Awesome! Thank you. I’ll get an alignment done to see where the caster is...already have SteerSmarts no drill top mount on the way...and hopefully that solves the problem. Thanks again
I just bought a jku with unfortunately a RC lift. Are suggesting that it better for me to take the dropped pitman arm and trackbar raised bracket and run them factory. It has 3.5 lift on it
Yes. The need to relocate the drag link is to reduce the angle it sets at and brings the radius to a better spot on its flow. With a high pitched drag link and track bar, they will cause the frame to shift over bumps. The closer to level they are, the less movement. Now as for a 3.5" system, we wont address all these changes until 4.5" and higher. Even when we address it, we will never do a dropped pitman arm. We will do like our "Steering Geometry" video and do a drag link flip and a complimenting raised track bar bracket on the axle side.
I’ve got a 2009 JK. Between 50 to 60 she’s skating back and forth. I’ve had the tires (305) 17 inch, balanced and rotated. Replaced all of the tire rods. New upper control arm bushings. New upper abs lower ball joints. And an alignment. The only things I haven’t changed areLower control arms, pitman and sway bar bushings and links. I can feel the wrangler going back and forth in the front end, but the shifter and steering wheel also have the vibrations…. Thoughts?
Awesome video brother, just bought me OEM pitman arm for my jk , going to follow your advice take out drool pitman and trackbar bracket. THANKS from South, texas
when you say Restore Trackbar placement ? whay i did when took off stock TB length eye to eye 32" installed New adjustable TB to same measurement? thanks
@@gotryche73 just make sure the track bar is mounted to the factory position on both ends, if you're running a stock pitman arm. Always adjust the track bar to center the frame over the axle.. even if it's a totally different measurement from the OE.
99% of death wobble is caused by the caster angle change after your lift stock is 4 deg best for offroad is 6 to 8 degrees. I run 8 deg caster and still have 4 deg positive pinion angle Dont confuse death wobbble with bumpsteer
Thanks for posting this video! I have the entry level RC 4" lift, and now I feel it's a bit dangerous. I'm planning to get a stock pitman arm, drag link flip kit, and an adjustable track bar. Wondering how a new adjustable track bar will mount to the axle after removing the RC brackets. Do they all come with their own brackets?
I understand you don't want to mention this lift kit manufacturer but I do recognize it. it is the same one that I bought. and guess what? I do have the same exact problem. After a bunch of online research and my local 4wheelparts dealer had told me is exactly what you're doing. Me and my son are replacing all of this nonsense with rubicon express parts. a little more expensive but they are much better quality parts.
Very wise route!! Happy to hear you are getting things on track. We use Rubicon Express for components involved in the steering geometry process (Track Bar, Drag Link, and Tie Rod). We've never been let down and once we had an end began to show slop, they immediately sent us a new end with their lifetime warranty. Proven products at reasonable prices and great customer service!
Greta video ! I have a question, do you have any suggestions for that swaying feel in a lifted Jeep JKU ? Side to side sway when going in curves is the issue I have.
Quick question? So I have a Jeep Wrangler 2016 sports and I’m having a issue turning it either way left or right I have to put both my hands on the wheel in order to turn any ideas what could be causing it?
So I have a 4.5 lift and I’m buying new steering components but I have a dropped pitman arm from rough country and it’s worn, I just bought a synergy flipped drag link should I bring it back to factory?
Yes. Ditch ALL the RC products and return to a factory pitman arm. Go to our "Steering Geometry" video and see what we did there. If my memory serves me on the RC track bar bracket... it is still not tall enough to raise the track bar up to a proper position for the flip and you will still end up with some level of bumpsteer.
I am trying to replace my pitman arm but can't fit the puller between the gear box and the pitman arm. Any thoughts on how I can get the current one off? Thanks!
Just replaced all my tie rod an drag link with synergy on my Dodge Ram 2500. I have a 4” lift with drop pitman arm from before, synergy told me I didn’t need it when I put it all together with the regular pitman arm. Took it off the lift an when I would turn my truck would lift up a shit ton like I’m going to tip..Switched back to the drop pitman arm an is completely fine. BUT I had to put the drag link in through the bottom because of the tapered end but synergy shows it going on top???
Can you help me fix the problem with my 2014 jeep wrangler sport. When ever I'm driving at high speeds (60 to 70mph). I feel a lack of control in steering and the car feels like it's wobbling. This is also my first time owning a jeep. I'm not too sure maybe it's just the crosswinds.
That's a very open ended subject. Body sway or more of a counter steer instability? Almost like something under your front end is fighting you and counters your control over bumps?
The dropped pitman arm? Not at all. As you increase the height, you'll eventually want to convert to a flipped drag link. Usually as you break the 4.5" range.
So I don't have a death wobble but there is some occasion's where steering becomes a hassle. For example say I go over a series of shallow pot holes. In doing so I try to turn the steering wheel accordingly and it won't turn until it is on flat ground and not vibrating. Is this a steering Box issue or possibly another lift kit and steering geometry correction problem?
That's a tough one to answer without feeling it or having more info.. So it's difficult to turn while going over the bumps? Or for a short while after the bumps?
I have a xj that has the drop pitman arm. Should I use standard drop or extended? I have the money to switch the entire steering around I just need death wobble to disappear
Deathwobble on an XY y-link style steering is not due to a pitman arm style. The dropped pitman arm allows the y-link system to reduce the angle of that Y and restore strength into the tie rod unit, and eliminate excessive toe change during bumps. A slopped out system will be the cause. For TJ and XJs focus on fresh steering end links and Ball joints. Lower arms to correct caster is also a focus. The Currie CurrectLync system is a beefy version of that steering and won't allow the tie rod to bow and flex, which is also another cause of deathwobble on a lifted Jeep.
I'm in the same boat with my 94, major difference is the YJ is on leafs so tracbar isn't really needed, TJ's are coil, so more needed, my 94 has neither tracbar or swaybar
Not from what I've seen. This will be slop and very loose - delayed response to the wheels. Front end vibration is normally tire balance or front driveshaft. Look for a vibration vs shimmy. Shimmy is worn components.
I keep getting death wobble not when I hit bumps but when I hit 45mph for no reason. I do have badly balanced tires but from what I understand. If every component is fine, an unbalanced tire will not put you into death wobble.
Quick question: I have a 4" MOAB lift with the drop pitman arm and raised track bar bracket. Will going to the stock pitman arm put too sharp if an angle in the tie rod?
My best suggestion is to do a flip kit and raised track bar relocation to compliment the drag link flip. Watch our "Steering Geometry" video if you get the chance and it will all make sense.
