I love vids like this, it shows ways I can use my limited set of tools to do things that would normally require more sophisticated toots. BUT, they (almost) always require other sophisticated and expensive tools, that I haven't got, to build. I sometimes feel that the people showing me this stuff are building kit they they don;t need because they already have a ton of great kit. Just sayin' :O)
I know I'm way behind the times, but I'm only just venturing out into the world of woodworking. Your videos are truly amazing and instructional, thank you
Was always wondering, why planers cannot be mounted to rods like routers. Great solution to the Problem: Planers should have a much better cut quality than routers for the bigger diameter of the cutting tool.
Looks like a good alternative to the router flattening jigs out there. Way faster as plane has way more cutting area, unless you go with monster router bits...
I don't like that it's held on with glue, though. The pressure on the planer means that the glue joint for the rear rod is under tension, which is not where a glue joint between two disparate materials is at its best.
Love it! but I thought you were going to lose a finger reaching for that bevel cutoff on the table saw! Looks like you have it down to a science - but knowing myself i might slide the planer too far to one side and have the bars slip off the guide rails. I'd have to put some sort of stopper on the end of the bars to help prevent that.
Great video J...and a great innovation. Maybe some day tool makers will think like tool users and things like this will come with the tools we buy. Until then, we have you showing us how things cane be done if we think a bit and try new ideas. Really well done my friend.
Ok, the solution is easy and straight forward. But: I would make some stoppers at the end of the metal rods to prevent them from slipping of the wooden bars. Also I would have liked some mechanism to change the hight so I could define the thickness of the workpiece. As for now I get a nice surface but this doesn´t help if the workpiece still is too thick. Exept for this it is a great video. Thx 4 sharing. Greetings from Switzerland 🇨🇭
Brilliant, man! Fantastic work! 😃 I confess I don't like the idea of gluing the piece of wood in the back of the planer, but... I really don't see any other way. 😕 Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
It would take not much effort to drill two 6mm holes in the back of the planer and bolt/screw the block on. I''ve made a sled to use my router on wide boards but the tiniest amount of flex in the sled results in a step in the board. I wonder how much movement will come from the 10mm rods. Maybe planing longitudinally is better than cross-cutting with the router?
At least in my Makita larger than this hand planer, model 1912B, a full 4 3/8" wide planer; the rear of the body has enough space for drilling the required holes, and also perhaps, for a pair of bushings slightly larger pipe bushings, so that the plastic body is not worn against the steel rods!
Buen trabajo , una regruesadora casera muy original , gracias por compartir tanta creatividad , un saludo cordial y por supuesto un gran like desde Narón , Galicia ( España) 🤓 😜
They should make planers with this added feature. Even if they didn't provide the rod, at least provide the 2 holes that aligns back and front, with maybe a steel pipe kind of fitting inside with various thickness. This was if the hole made is too big or small from the rod you can find where you are u can switch the pipe with different thickness, like a thicker one to fit a smaller rod etc. With a jig like this, it would make planing larger and wider boards much more consistent and accurate.
Routers have one advantage. You can adjust the depth of cut much more easily than with this setup, which if I have understood correctly relies on packing up the board from below. Which isnt so easy, especially if the faces are not parallel.
Brilliant. Next, expand the same concept, using long aluminum box extrusions (e.g. 80/20) as support/reference rails, and motorized head from cannibalized 12" lunchbox thickness planer. 10 times faster than typical router sled, plus readily executable dust collection via planer's dust port.
@@j-woodworking9573 Please let me know if you succeed in creating this type of planing machine. I thought of doing it many years ago, before I had more industrial equipment. But I was always too busy with client work and other invention projects to get around to it. Since then, I've seen a RU-vid video by a man in Russian who did what you've done, but with a wider electric hand plane. A 12" planer head would make short work of most jobs. One detail you might consider: presuming you end up stripping down a 12" planer with straight knives, I think it might prove a worthwhile refinement to mount the head at a slight skew angle to the direction of the carriage travel. A shearing cut would reduce power requirement somewhat and, more importantly, provide much cleaner results, especially on highly figured stock, than a straight knife entry. Good luck! BTW, the execution of your current model is impressive.
real minimalism at work here. focus and simplify the problem and solution so you can maximize your capacity to solve other problems. the result is very close to planer results with little or no extra sanding
Very good idea! I've wondered in the past why people who build these big router sleds for flattening don't just use a hand held planer on them. It would go much faster seems like than using a router.
because this will only take off a tiny layer of wood. for most boards this would require tens or even hundreds of passes. what is needed is a router jig and then a planer jig to remove the slightly uneven surface left by routers.
Most router sleds have a carrier that moves longitudinally and the router slides across the board in the carrier. Re-engineering this to slide the planer longitudinally is a much bigger job than it looks, at least it is on the sled that I built (my sled can surface boards up to 700mm wide, 2200mm long). But you're right, the router can take meaty layers off in one pass, the planer not so much.
Very nice set up. This should work well provided the 2 steel rods are straight and absolutely parallel to the flat surface of the planer and that the 2 boards that he is using as a guide are also straight, flat, and set exactly to the same height.. And of course, the surface of the table saw needs to be flat. Any error will result in steps in the planer cut. But other wise, kudos for the concept.
Awesome idea! Thanks for sharing. I have an 8 foot long workbench slab to flatten and am planning to use this with some 10 foot unistrut as my side rails. In thinking about this it seems like the guide rail on the back of the planer is not necessary since the back plate behind the blades will limit the depth of cut.
Actually none of it is necessary. That was a whole lot of work that a couple planes, winding sticks, and a makita electric planer would do just fine (probably better) than trying machine something as if 3/8 steel rods don’t flex or bend. If you need that much production in flattening boards you need a jointer and / or an electric planer. Hand planes don’t take that long on small projects. I flattened a 5’ side table top last night in about 5 minutes with a smooth plane. Needs 5-10 more minutes with my jointer plane to be ready to sand or perhaps even leave the jointer plane finish. I do not own an electric jointer nor an electric thickness planer.
Nice and easy. I don't know how easy that steel may flex, but it could be easily reinforced by pushing the rods through some wood, although it will lose the ability to slide those rods through the tool for adjustment.
A rubber band on each side of the metal rod will keep the rod from sliding...or you could use a round metal rod bushing with screw to lock it in place. Neat video. Thank You!!
I think it's supposed to slip a little. You can see how he pulls them out bit by bit as he moves on to the next "track" when he's planing. That way he can use shorter rods. Theoretically if you had a rigid frame and washers at the ends of the rods (so they only slide forwards/backwards), you could see the planer as the only part that allows sideways motion. It would be able to slide right and left on the rods, while the rods would slide forwards an backwards on the frame. I think I'd build it that way.
Maybe I'm missing something. But I don't have much trouble flattening boards just using the hand planer itself without any jigs. I mean, that kind of what it is designed for.
I see what you mean...i was thinking the same thing, flat is generally fine for my projects, but now I'm thinking this method makes it Perfectly flat... I'm not that picky, but i like this...
I was cringing when you used the angle grinder without a guard and I was cringing even more when you were passing your fingers directly over an unguarded router cutter!
the steel rod needs to be stiff enough so that it does not bend to the weight of the planer, especially when suspended tight in the middle. I think there is a limit on how long the rods should be before it yields and starts drooping, affecting the consistency of the depth of the shaving.
Хорошая идея. Хотя выравнивание угла в 140 градусов для задней планки было совершенно излишне - в итоге всё равно приклеил под случайным углом. С тем же успехом можно было и квадратное сечение оставить. И ещё ручки для направляющих можно бы добавить для удобства.
Well done, Sir! I really like your imaginative solution👏👏👏 Like some other commentators here, I wonder about the best way to height-adjust. The options that occur to me are: • have a selection of ‘wooden feet’ that are of slightly different heights, for the wooden side pieces… and inter-change them as the piece you’re working on gets thinner; or • instead of using one long wooden piece on each side, use two - with vertical slots in both ends of each pair so you could connect them and adjust the height using a bolt and washer/nut though the slots (hard to describe without a picture! 😬😖😂) Also, was that hot glue you used to connect the wood piece to the back of the planer, or something else? Again, brilliant idea and thanks for posting👍👏
Brilhante ideia. Meus parabéns e gratidão por compartilhar. Faço tábuas de corte e tenho dificuldade de plainar. Vou copiar seu projeto imediatamente. Espero que funcione com madeira dura.
@@reginaldoserra8944 ainda não meu caro , estou terminando uma encomenda de uma mesa de escritório e sinceramente tenho apanhado muito kkkkk Vou começar a produzir umas tábuas no meio de março e vou copiar seu projeto. Obrigado e grande abraço
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