*Update* 11 months have passed including one long and cold winter since applying the Plasti-dip. I have both hand and pressure washed the wheels and noticed some signs of wear. A few rough edges with only one wheel peeling at all (only a section 1/4" in length). Though the product held up beyond my expectations I have plans to touch up some of them. No matter how I measure this products value, I can't find a more cost effective solution that offers such versatility and forgiveness. Not to mention it gives you something to do and claim as your own. Show less
The reason why it has shown wear and tear is becasue after peeling you exposed the plasti dip edges. to have a more lasting project you should add a finishing coat (matte top coat/gloss) to cover the design edges. although the way you executed the project its totally fine but when it comes to plasti dip and its peeling abilities..you dont want to leave edges exposed instead have an addtional layer of protection. i did a similar project where i blacked out the wheel first and then used masking tape to outline the design of the wheel and added silver metalizer (two tone job without the fuss of edge exposure)
Thanks! This video has been very useful. Don't be sorry about not editing the video. I like the "raw"-ness of it. It really gives us a realistic time frame on it being done. I personally hate it when demo videos show a technique, then immediately cut to the aftermath. I mean, this is RU-vid. We can all fast forward the can shaking parts. No problem!
Damn man, this video is 10 yrs old and is so relative still today! Nice work. I ran across this vid looking for details on a two tone wheel project I'm working on using hyperdip, and this pretty much answered all my questions. Thanks man! 🍻
Thanks! There seems to be two schools of thought surrounding the topic of "shaking". One is that you can never do it "too much" the other being you do it at the beginning and that is all that is necessary. I err on the side of caution and subscribe to the former. All the same, thanks for watching and I hope you were able to gain some insight from the video on your own project.
just did the GMC emblems black on my Envoy Denali today, HUGE improvement! The truck's black with the chrome grille so the red emblems just didn't fit. Now with them black with the chrome edges it just looks right. I can't believe how something so cheap can make such a difference!
Looks really good, my guy! I am really wanting to do a 2 tone effect on my wheels with purple and black or maybe gunmetal. I am really curious in what you would do or opinions. Purple would be my main color but there are some little details that i would like to "camouflage" , in a way. I wish I could post a picture of my wheels so you would have more of an understanding the effect I am going for.
MC DE LEON- I masked the perimeter with electrical tape as Mr. Weremy had suggested. It provides a pliable use which helps around curved edges. Plus it is easily removable and leaves no adhesive behind. I caution you and others to protect from overspray as good as you can. Though the product is forgiving when applied in uniform coats, small amounts of overspray tend to be difficult to see (as was the case on my vehicles black paint) and tricky to remove. I found that a Magic Eraser proved to be most useful. **Update** 11 months have passed including one long and cold winter since applying the Plasti-dip. I have both hand and pressure washed the wheels and noticed some signs of wear. A few rough edges with only one wheel peeling at all (only a section 1/4" in length). Though the product held up beyond my expectations I have plans to touch up some of them. No matter how I measure this products value, I can't find a more cost effective solution that offers such versatility and forgiveness. Not to mention it gives you something to do and claim as your own.
Super great job bro, just the kind of video I was looking for ... the way to plasti dip with the tape and getting the shape of the wheel... awesome 👍👍👍👍🏆🏆🏆🥇🥇🥇🥇
Thanks! It took much longer than anticipated but the cost savings(of replacing wheels/paying someone to paint them) was too great. Sorry for not editing video too.
Just be sure to remove the masking tape before the product dries. It will reveal a clean edge and if you've properly applied the product it will remain smooth as well. No texture.
Nice job! I think it looks great! I was wondering why you didn't tape off the tires... is it unnecessary or overkill or does is not really show up when sprayed onto the tires from overspray? I'd like to hear your thoughts.
Over spray on tires does present a problem if not properly masked off however in my application (having never used this stuff previously) I didn't know what to expect. If doing it again I probably would have masked off the tires as well just to save myself the effort of trying to remove plasti-dip from the sidewalls. I just rubbed off the excess with a microfiber towel because (as over spray) it wasn't a nice even coating but rather a sparse inconsistent application. It was actually the hardest part to remove because it sticks pretty well and due to the fact that it wasn't a nice uniform coat. Bottom line, as I've mentioned in other comments, masking properly will save you time and effort later. Preparation is key (as with any project) and a magic eraser is your best friend for cleanup of over spray (excluding the tires). Good luck!
Very nice job! This is the idea I have. Would it be easier to spray the entire wheel and then cut and peel off the section you want exposed? I’m sure taping off those sections took a lot of time! Thoughts?
I suppose you could do the cut and remove process if you wanted. My only words of caution... Be careful with your blade. Don’t cut too deep. I masked everything with tape and yes it was time consuming and tedious but it’s the only way I knew that has proven to work. One advantage to your idea is that you could lay down more coats and build the paint layers thicker than I did which would help it last longer. I would just worry about cutting through the clear coat beneath leading to potential oxidation/poor wheel finish appearance. I did cut the excess tape off of the wheel before applying the paint and when I did, I could feel the razor cutting into the wheels finish if I applied too much pressure by accident. My advice would be to tape it off and don’t try to “reinvent the wheel/cut corners”. Let me know what you end up doing, I’d like to hear!
Good job, very nice. My only question is why didn't you remove the wheel? Seems you'd be able to get complete coverage without worrying about overspray. I'm not trying to criticize you, you did a great job I'm just curious.
At the time I made this video, I did not own a floor jack and jack stands. I didn’t want to paint them one at a time, wait for it to dry, remount the wheel and then move on to the next one. So in short, it was all about overall time spent. I actually made another video years later (since purchasing those tools and) and that’s definitely the way to go, as you pointed out. Thanks for the constructive criticism and I hope this video helped you!
Hi there, You don't also happen to have a video of you applying the masking tape? I am looking to do the same exact thing with my Ridgeline RTL wheels and I am curious to know how you got the masking tape to be the precise width of the spoke fork and also how you were so precise with the center hub area.
Hey Chris glad to see that you found this beneficial. I had hoped someone with the same vehicle would use this. To answer your questions... Regarding the spokes, I first masked the perimeter with electrical tape as it is more forgiving around contours(see my other comments). Then I masked the spokes,lugs and hub with blue painters tape(two inch wide roll). I intentionally overlapped all edges of the spokes(using two strips of tape per spoke) and VERY CAREFULLY trimmed the excess with a shiny new razor blade. Don't cut into the clear coat if you can help it and don't forget to cut out the center of the spokes like I did on the first wheel. All that remained was a perfectly clean mask over all the spokes. Now the center hub area went like this... first I masked and trimmed it with tape as aforementioned. Then I carefully peeled it off leaving the whole piece in tact(think of it like a big sticker for the hub). I placed that sticker on a piece of cardboard from a case of soda, traced around the sticker with a pen, removed the sticker and cut out the template with scissors. Then I laid out enough tape to cover a hub on my work surface and used my cardboard stencil to trace the hub outline onto the tape. Grab your exacto knife or utility blade and get cutting X4. It seems like a lot of work for just some wheels but I don't believe in half-assery and it seemed like the best way to ensure consistency. All told it took a lot of time and I'm glad that I spent all that time in preparation because it turned out great. Only misgiving I have now that all this time has passed since I did it... I would have done eight, yes EIGHT, coats per wheel. I can see some spots where it is wearing pretty thin and to peel it off in one piece would be impossible. Had I applied more product this probably would not be the case. Still looks good though. I'm just too aware of my own work I suppose. Final tip, Magic erasers make overspray cleanup a breeze and trust me, if you don't cover your truck this stuff will get everywhere and it's really hard to see small amounts of overspray much less clean it off. Just do yourself a favor and cover the whole dang thing because you're going to be spraying in every direction assuming the wheels are on the truck while you work. Hope this helps.
Just wondering if you plasti dip the outer lining already before you did this or did you put some tape too on the outer border? I noticed that before you started, the outer border was already black and peeled it at the end. I will appreciate it your reply. Thanks.
Some people who dip their rims use electrical tape. Since that it goes around rounded corners and makes clean lines when it's removed. Painters tape is harder to remove from rims if it's on a rounded corner. If you chose to remove the rim and tire you can put flash cards between the rim and the tire. That is if you want to do the outside of the rim without removing the tire from the rim. By doing that you don't get PD on the tire. Also washing, drying, prepping your rims before you dip them is a good idea as well. Using stock nozzles(white) that come with the cans you have to put more down to get more coverage(more passes to get more product as the coats go on). Adding thin coats at the start and getting thicker as you go along will layer the dip. Better protection, also easier to remove when you want to remove it.
Looks really good, I have an 2011 rtl with the same wheels. thinking of ding the same thing. How has it worn? No issues getting new tires and it peeling off? Thanks
It has been 3 years since I applied it. Here is what I would (& will) do differently. 1. Remove wheels from truck so the lug nut cavities could get more thorough application. 2. Apply more coats to aid in future removal(thin coats, though somewhat necessary for this masking purpose make it more difficult to easily remove). 3. Because the rim( or bead seat) of the wheel was masked with electrical tape there is no issue of it coming off when mounting/dismounting tires should the need arise. There is simply no product on the rim (of the wheel). (To be clear "rim" and "wheel" and not interchangeable terms as others seem to not realize this.) 4. I would paint the inner wheel first. Just for aesthetics and personal preference. 5. Overall it has held up well but there are definite signs of wear as it is now older. A top coat would help with this(glossifier/satin). Bottom line is that this product is inexpensive, user friendly and provided a do-it-yourself project that yields great results. To that end I would add that preparation is key as with any project. Hope this helps.
Any tips on how to PD my lugnuts red? On my 2014 civic si wheels , do you think I would need to tape the black strip or can I just spray it and peel the area of the black strip?
Any masking you do will aid in clean lines and make cleanup easier. Masking the black strip before painting will make your job much easier. In all honesty, I would suggest going to your local parts store and buying red lug nuts if that's what you really want. Otherwise, you would need to mask the lug nut well itself leaving only the nut exposed which would be time consuming and painstaking. Plus you need to clean each lug nut so the paint will adhere well. Since you need to take the lug nuts off to clean them, why not just replace them with red ones? Plus as soon as you take a wrench to freshly painted nuts the dip will inevitably tear. Plastidip is great for a lot of things, I think lug nuts is not one of them.
If you want to add glossifier (the plastidip clearcoat) you must allow the base coat to dry first. You would NOT need to mask anything off again unless you don’t want the clear coat on certain surfaces. Glossifier can be peeled/removed the same way as regular plastidip so no need for masking. My only word of caution is that if you apply it too thin it will be very difficult to remove in the future... so apply enough coats to build it up. I’d say at least three coats of glossifier at a minimum. Thanks my unprofessional humble opinion based on my experience.
I used electrical tape to mask off the perimeter of the wheel and used painters tape for the rest. The electrical tape will “bend” to the radius of the wheel. Hope this helps on your project.
A topcoat of clear(glossifier) would definitely improve the products longevity. However, it will provide a shiny appearance as its name implies(which I didn't want). The biggest tip I can offer is to apply as many coats as possible (color and clear). It ensures longer life and easier removal. Hope this helps.
This was performed using Plastidip. It is a removable, non permanent paint. If applied properly, it provides excellent coverage and is easily removable by peeling it off once dried. It can be purchased at Home Depot, Lowes, online at dipyourcar.com or at most hardware stores as well. Good luck and glad you found the video useful!
It has held up pretty well all things considered. I haven't removed it since I first applied it in 2013. So, thousands of miles, three winters, extreme heat summers, hand washing, pressure washing and it is still (mostly) in tact. The edges on some wheels look a little jagged and are peeling slightly. I plan to remove and reapply it this fall when I switch to my winter wheels/tires. Overall I'm still very satisfied. I believe the largest contributing factor to be that this style of application(masking off) forces you to apply each coat quickly(between coats) and less total coats before it dries so you can get clean lines when you peel off the tape. If you see my other video, I speak to this issue briefly. All in all it's still cheaper than powder coat or painting them in a traditional style, it gives you a project to do, it's reversible/removable(easily) and it is pretty user friendly. Not to mention it costs way less than a new set of 17" Sport wheels. Just go for it, you won't regret it.
af·fect1 əˈfekt/ verb have an effect on; make a difference to. "the dampness began to affect my health" synonyms: have an effect on, influence, act on, work on, have an impact on. Thanks for viewing and I hope you've found it to be a helpful video. Now you've learned a new word as well.
ef·fect NOUN a change that is a result or consequence of an action or other cause: "the lethal effects of hard drugs" What you did to your wheel was an EFFECT hence, me correcting you. you then proceed to have "effect" in your description. it seems you do not know which one to decide on. imade it easier for you :) You. Are. Welcome.
The masking was the affect(as in the title). The result from said masking and subsequent painting is the effect(as in the description). Affect/verb Effect/noun These words were properly used. I don't know why I am entertaining this debate pleasant though it may be.
excellent work mate i will be doing this on my bmw msports but the opposite way around .great vid exactly what i was looking for mine are the colour you made yours and my silver parts are wrecked from bad parking
