I got my first sea kayak in ‘99- a Current Designs Squall. Yellow rotomolded HDPE. Great-performing boat, but a bit heavy (72 lbs?) and I was not aware of the “oil can” phenomenon. Sat it on a picnic table for a few days in the summer sun and it permanently made a concave area under the seat. Other than that, lol, it has been incredibly durable. Was $1200 new. A few years later, my brother joined the club, but bought a totally different kind of plastic boat, an Eddyline Falcon. It was made of ABS and acrylic sheet, heated up, then vacuum formed down to a mold. Like a composite kayak, it had an upper and lower hull of two different colors joined above the waterline. It had the sharp, defined contours and edges of a composite boat and light too- low 50lb range. Also a very fast and straight-tracking kayak. Maybe $1800 at the time. I think it’s been discontinued unfortunately.
Not all Plastic kayak have glued in foam bulkhead. Valley plastic kayaks have welded in plastic bulkheads. I also disagree about the weight being much much more as you put it. Maybe 6 to 9 pounds more. No doubt heavier but not HUGE. COST difference is HUGE though. Composite are crazy high in the 4 to 5 grand range now. Plastic 1000 to 2 grand at the most.
There are more advantages of owning a composite kayak over a plastic one then just price and weight. They are also faster on the water, and more efficient, which is great for long distances. That doesn't mean that plastic kayaks don't have their place in the market. Personally, I could own both and I would use them both in different situations. But I have no room :(
And the best of all is a timber/epoxy/fibreglass kayak. Lightest and easily repairable at home. I built some almost 20 years ago, still kayaking with it at only 18kg for a 17 footer with rudder. Granted, not everyone has the skills or inclination to build one themselves.
Well, excellent tutorial! My old "Rainbow Oasis" in polyethylene 425cm long weighs 23 Kg. My "new" Qajaq Kaylhoa in fiberglas of 471 cm weighs only 19 kg !! But it is also true that the fiberglas is much more "delicate" !!
I prefer the more care free ownership of a plastic boat. I don't worry about beaching it on a rocky shore and dragging it in with 100 lbs of gear inside. I would cringe doing that with a $4000 fiber boat. Buy I'm more about kayak camping and exploring than being fast.
I have repaired both. With plastic, contact the manufacturer for some of the original formula of plastic or it won't stick. With a cheap plastic welder from Harbor Freight you can make invisible repairs. The plastic forms nicely with woodworking tools. Poly kayaks deteriorate with uv rays. From about 5 years if stored outside in Florida to several decades if stored inside. So don't buy one all sun faded. Fiberglass kayaks (not Kevlar etc.) Can be repaired with polyester resin & fiberglass from Walmart. Again shaved & sanded like wood. Gelcoating the hull is trickier. About 1 qt per boat. Bought online. Special thinner. Special spray gun. Short shelf life for gel coat. Hazmat respirator. But if you study online how-to videos a novice can do it. I did. And results were excellent. I presently have two, thirty year old Seda Gliders that people ask if they are new. But I don't drag them either. The Kevlar/honeycomb type kayaks are pretty much not owner repairable. Most are flimsy and more susceptible to damage and have no advantage in the water. Hull design is everything. I bought one kayak brand new. An Epic 18X sport. Because I couldn't find a used one. Very nice! But fragile. Paddled it for 3 years and sold it. I like a more robust boat.
I am looking at getting a spray skirt for my Carolina 14. This video had some good information to consider. I would love to sea kayak some time. My kayaking now is limited to mountian lakes in Colorado.
Great Video , I'm new to sea kayak's , have a sit on kayak now but spotted a carbon sea kayak cheep in price ! But worried about being trapped in them and the spray deck etc but the video shows very easy to get in there unlike a normal river canoe as you have to sit on the nack and slide in , and out if upside down very scary but the sea kayaks look much larger hole to get in there ! very cool video , think the one I've seen will be owned tomorrow !
Definitely practice that self rescue and or get some classes! I’ve got a river kayak now and I’m in the same boat! Found a few good options on Craigslist for sea kayak, might pull the trigger soon!
If you plan long sea touring in the wild, buy a plastic kayak. Plastic is much stronger and more durable than composite materials. Any scratches on the plastic you can repair with silicone sealant. Most importantly - don't buy a cheap Chinese kayak. Body seams may suddenly radiate. Welcome to the uninhabited places of the Russian White and Barents sea.
Plastic is nice and durable but HEAVY. Composite is so much nicer to carry on and off water but FRAGILE and TIPPY. There are boats that sort of span the difference some "reacreational" composites like from Stellar that are very light and not excessively tippy the Current Designs a bit heavier and more stable too but still fragile. I would probably (and have) choose a composite boat for flatwater because many areas require long carries into various boat launches, lakes and rivers not near parking lots. For the most part you can control how you run into or get around rocks in flatwater so fragility is less of a concern. After the first year where you ruin the gelcoat and need expensive repairs you know where to avoid so eventually it's not a problem unless you're in rapids. Also the increased tippiness isn't as much of a problem on flatwater though lakes and even rivers can get pretty wild on the wrong day. But the sea is a different creature the waves are so extreme you wouldn't even be able to get in the boat most of the time and in the time you could you could easily get lodged on a rocky shoreline damaging the gelcoat. I would never trust a composite boat not to tip in ocean conditions. 10mph on a lake is doable. Wind is seldom less than 10-15 in the sea unless you get up at dawn but even those slight winds then (like 5mph) are significant due to longer fetch and big waves, never mind boat wakes and it's absolutely terrifying even in a plastic boat. Could never imagine going out on the ocean with a composite especially one of those long, fast, narrow tippy ones. You have to like swimming a lot.
Sure do... I own 4 of them. They’re still being made by Mission in NZ. Great boats www.missionkayaking.com/shop/Kayaks/Ocean+Kayaks/ECO+BEZHIG+540.html
Must be at least 15 years since I paddled plastic kayaks. Been composites for me now for many years, sea kayaaking as well as canoeing. Nice video though.
It is always important in - what skill level the kayaker is - he finds ... And what he want trains ... And if the kayak lends to someone ... But thanks for the inspiration ...
Plastic kayaks are shorter. And need to be stored out of the sun. You plastic weld them with material from the manufacturer. Fiberglass kayaks cost more but you can find good used ones. They’re stronger. When you paddle out of the sight of land you’re glad you have a boat not a toy. Exotics like carbon fiber and honeycomb layered just means you can’t repair them. It saves you a few pounds on loading. It makes no difference in the water. Wide kayaks are for fishing. You see them near shore ‘cause the fishing is better and their kayaks are too slow and bulky to get far. For touring long narrow fiberglass are best. Poly kayaks can do it too. But will lower your confidence a little bit. Hull profile, skegs and rudders make a big difference.
