All credit to you. Life is about trial and error. I think everyone of subscribers are enjoying the journey. I don’t even have a layout but I live vicariously through what you do , it’s still fun. My retirement plan is to build a layout so I am compiling a list of what I would like to do. I love the fact that you have trod the path , `i know I will still have issues but its fun watching what you. All the best Alex
I really like the fact Charlie includes his mistake on his builds. Makes more gung ho on the build I am doing, and less concerned with making a mistake! I started a large layout in my basement after I retired. It is an awesome thing to keep me engaged and busy in retirement. Love this channel!
I do love your honesty, Charlie. Seriously, though, we all appreciate you showing your mistakes and saving us the pain and horror. I thank you, Sir! Much better result on the second attempt. Simon
@@StevenTT120Layout we are just making our first TT:120 kit, a 3 road diesel depot. You never know, a TT:120 platform kit could be something that may show at some point.
Absolutely thrilled to hear some of the results of my own experiments helped you, Charlie. Thanks for the mention! I think these have turned out great so far. Looking forward to seeing it all progress.
Thanks Charlie for such an interesting series on platforms. I’ll shortly be at the same stage on my layout and am still puzzling the best way to construct the platforms. Your various experiments are a great help. I can’t help thinking that pre formed platform strips that you mentioned at the end might be the best way forward. John
Hi Charlie, found your channel after coming back to the hobby a few months ago. I have now watched every video (its took a while), and felt the need to say thanks for all the content. I enjoy the way you present and you have some great knowledge. Normally watch on a tv so dont comment, but as im now caught up, sat on the laptop so i could say, great work, i look forward to seeing more of your hints and tips, and watching the layout develop. Paul.
That was absolutely amazing Charlie. Something so simple as platform construction and yet I was spellbound by the whole operation. Certainly will bear it all in mind when I construct my N Gauge platforms.
Like other a have mentioned I love your honesty. It is heartwarming to know that I am not alone in making mistakes. Mind you I make so many mistakes I have lost count. Thanks again Charlie. Always enjoy watching your videos
Awsome, Mr B. Just awesome. I'm nearing the start of my retirement project to upgrade my layout, and so much of what I will do will be down to watching and implementing what I'm learning from your videos.
I am enjoying your efforts to make platforms and it’s great that you’ve left in all the mistakes you’ve made so we don’t have to. I can’t be the only person whose layout does not allow long straight platforms, so it would be great if any new product made provision in some way for curved platforms. Keep up the great work. Charles
I do admire your truth and honesty in every video Charlie. Looking forward to seeing what pre made platforms are developed definitely a market for them.
Excellent video Charlie, thank you for the insight to the platform build, I really look forward to your two weekly YTV. Interesting learnings for all to consider. Much appreciated and keep up the content, we all appreciate it,
Hi Charlie, it's good to see that I'm not the only one to not use the full stroke of the saw! Enjoying the videos, even if I model a different era, a lot of your techniques are lessons learnt. Lawrence
Another great how to vid mate. When you mention all the tiling, all I could think of was, not another 3 days! But, you overcame that chore rather quickly. Arthur
Charlie, Thank you for the video. As always they are very informative and educational. I am building my first layout and have found lots of useful information in your videos. I only recently learned of your military career. Although I live in the US, Thank You for your service to your country. My father served 30 years in the USAF. I wasn't military but served 30 years in Law Enforcement. Again, thank you. Charlie in Nebraska
Looks great, Charlie! It was sad to see the results of the last one, but hopefully you agree that the lessons learned helped this one come along well! I think you will be proud of it for a long time.
Another cracking construction video Charlie. The lengths that you go to for that genuine look have to be applauded and even more showing us the good bits as well as the not so good parts. I raise my hat to you sir. My older brain may not be so absorbent to knowledge as it used to be for new knowledge but you explain things in a way that even I can take in, this is very much appreciated. Thanks again.
Hi Charlie, that was such a task, I admire your perseverance especially with all those tiles and the drainage channel. The final result was excellent in particular the corbelling. If as a result of this a preprepared sheet can be made then this would be an excellent result for you and the Chadwick community. All the best!!
That was quite a bit of work and you can't always tell how they are going to turn out. Your work showed the way to an improved method. The new one piece surface idea sounds very good. 😊👍
Great work as usual, Charlie and great tips. If the company looking in to the tile sheets manages to crack the problem, perhaps they might then be able to then offer bespoke sheets to suit different platform shapes (obviously at a cost), eg where lines converge/diverge and there's a station with a triangular central island platform - Kidsgrove (fairly local to me) is a typical example of what I mean?
Another brilliantly honest video Charlie, thank you. I've used Metcalfe pavement slabs on my layout as they remind of the pavements around where I grew up and seem to do the job. Look forward to your next episode of platform building. All the best👍
Thanks for all this Charlie, platform’s are so important and I’m rebuilding my own just the same. We really could have a mix of paving and tarmac if we we’re bold enough! Next problem for me is “high speed trains” yellow lines. I need to lay off the beer to do this! 😆
Charlie, great "Take 2" on your platforms. Great techniques used there, putting a "skin" of Polystrene on the platform edge, and then using Polystrene glue is a great idea, and would work kell. I think Superglue has its place, but is a glue of last resort, as it need a Mechanical bond to hold, whereas the Polustrne cement is a chemical bond, so it will last forever. The platform tiles look great, and is a great idea, making a "one sheet" may be difficult for different widths of platform, but hey, all issues can be overcome, no problems, just solutions and opportunities. Your station area is progressing well,a nd I am loving the progress. Cheers, and thank you for sharing, and stay safe, Michael
Great job on the second round of platform construction! Must have been satisfying during the second build to to see it go so well, especially after the first attempt where you just weren't feeling much love for the project!
Hi Charlie. Love your channel and i'm learning so much. Just want to say if you ever have problems with the revel contacta glue nozzle, just wave a lighter over the end very quickly and it will melt the hardened glue. Little puff of smoke and your good to go. Kind regards Ian
Looking great. I use Buff Titanium by Daler & Rowney for Mortar, sometimes mixed into a little smooth polyfilla. A trick with the Revell glue, if the nozzle dries / blocks up then squeeze the bottle gently whilst holding a flame under the metal tip. When you get a little flamethrower, job done!
A great step forward in platform construction, this is how this hobby moves forward. Having a great opportunity to work with a production team for something that can be utilised by many. Having a single piece of top surface with all the feature built in, only have to cut and glue then paint away.. platform design as per Charlie from Chadwick. A Great Leap Forward from the last experiment. Wishing all the best for the next platform and the station. All best Marc from Leighton Buzzard. Take care when cutting this new platform when comes to the join at the platform slope….
Hi Charlie, thanks for the idea of clamping down ruler etc to cut straight line, its one of those things that is always said "why didn't I think of that earlier". Regards Mark
Brilliant video, and having a single sheet of tiles be far better and easier than single ones , and talking of platforms ! 😂Did enough walking up and down those in my BR days as a railman ,closing the doors on the ' slam door' stock , always some one who would leave the door open or on the catch, right at the top of a 12 Cig/Vep emu or the loco hauled inter - regionals 😂, remember those ? Seems like yesterday and another lost piece of history.and one day I was finishing My shift and just seeing the Brighton to Manchester out ,when the driver of the class 47 learned out the cab and asked if I wanted to join him ,so as I was finished for the day I hopped on board and rode with him to reading, and what a cab ride that was ,nearly a ton between Acton and Reading, them were the days when you could get cab rides😊
Thank you for your walts and all, easy-to-follow and step-by-step process of platform construction. Watching the process from the beginning is fascinating, seeing the final product, and reflection in action, from the learning curve during the process. Your hanging baskets also look very nice.
Some great ideas there Charlie. When I am doing a project "that matters" I use 18 mm ply (For 00) and use metcalffe platform for dressing. As all things tend to be over-sized I use N gauge for the main platform walking surface and the you can dress the facing and edges according to the period being replicated. The card brings the platform up to about 19mm. I also use my router to create a quarter inch wide channel on the under side of the platform for incorporating wiring for lights (Platform or platform buildings). That may seem odd but it then simply requires a drilling of a whole through to the channel and job done (A bit like a bus wire) To get a varied effect on any structure weathering I vary the distance between the paint source (Air brush or rattle can) and the object. Another great and honest video! Stay safe mate , Regards, Roger
Great video. Building platforms for my TT layout. Laser Cutter very useful tool. Do not need a very powerful one, since cutting thin sheets. I.e. cheap. Planning on a single section, with tiles engraved on it. Doing the same with the side sections.
Charlie nice looking platform especially like the central drainage channel something not often modelled, perhaps the new sheet could include the drainage channel and paving only with a wider width so it could be cut to size to allow the edge coppers to fit so it could be used to accommodate various width platforms. When sticking plastic sheet to timber I now use UHU POR adhesive which is designed for Polystyrene. I use the Revell Contacta a lot it is good glue but the tube does tend to block to clear the tube it can be pulled and heated in a flame which will burn out the hardened glue and the tube replaced when cool only takes a moment to do. Halfords primer is an excellent product
Halfords have now changed their primers and the new grey primer is so much lighter and thinner...ideal for the motor industry, what it's designed for, but have used it and now cannot recommend it for modelling....such a shame but we'll find a replacement product I'm sure.
Charlie that looks great! Probably one of the nicest platforms I've seen. Really like the drainage grates. Have you had the opportunity to see a channel named Chandwell? This gentleman scratch builds the most realist buildings in N-scale using a computer program called Inkscape. They are stunning and worth a look.
Excellent job as always Charlie! Thank you for sharing your techniques and allowing us to learn from your mistakes also, this video has really given me food for thought as I am about to start making my own platforms (well try at least!)
I think you have hit the mark balancing introducing a technique, demonstrating how to apply it and talking about the results. Great work! In the US I have seen "concrete stamp patterns" to make poured concrete look like pavers. I wonder if something like that could be 3D-printed instead of hand-laying hundreds of scale yards of individual paving stones. Your platform looks both amazing and highly representative of the location's photographs.
The slabs did look really good put on individually like that but clearly it is hugely time consuming. Pre-made lengths would clearly be more practical for long platforms such as this but you probably do need some loose slabs as well for those areas where long straight sheets aren't so suitable. The slope actually looked fine the way you did it because in real life the people laying the paving suffer from the same problem and come up with the same solution of cutting slabs down to fit. What I would say is that although the drain channel grating looks great it probably needs to be broken up here and there with a slightly larger square representing the main drain point for the channel to run in to. Another tip (which you may well have done but didn't mention) is to remove your masking tape as soon as possible before the paint dries. If you wait until it is dry you run the risk of pulling up paint from your surface when you remove the tape as the paint has formed a layer across the join.
I’d absolutely love to build a platform the same way, I’ve found that for what I’m building the pre-made ones tend to end a bit long or short and don’t have as much realism to them, they tend to just have flat sides. I’d definitely invest in a platform kit just like what you’ve done there with the paving stones.
Im on layout rebuild NO4, and I use white self adhesive cable trunking for my platforms… it’s the perfect height, and two together makes the perfect width! Easy to cut to size, and scenic over and cover with self adhesive paper with a printed effects. Can also run all the layout cabling through so it hidden from view and don’t need to go under baseboards etc!
I really like the instruction on how to create these models, I learn a lot from your videos. I am not particularly good at finishing but, when you painted the white & ochre I think I would have thinned it a bit to let the brick stand out a bit more.
For my four platforms 2m long, I have used SMS "steam era platform edging" in strips 140mm long, 7 to the pack #LX319-OO, which, once installed, can be easily sanded to create a bullnose. Behind these, for platform paving, I employed their 3 ft x 2 ft paving slabs in 277mm x 144 mm sheets. They match perfectly, and make a great platform. To deal with the joints between sheets, I added strips 1mm wide for "expansion" joints. A bit of grey paint, some weathering, and done and dusted.
@@ChadwickModelRailwayOccasionally that handy saw handle square - isn't!!! A newish Stanley saw, made in France, after cursing it in broken french, I marked up it's yellow handle.
Think we’ve all had these sorts of false starts Charlie - and learned from them. For tarmac I use fine emery paper or scribed plasticard for paving slabs. My edge slabs are cut individually but that’s easier to do in 7mm. Thanks for ideas as always, Bob
Hi saw your video about branch line station platforms another informative way of making platforms can’t wait to see the next instalment at Chadwick Hope you are doing ok take care Best wishes Kev Beighton Parkway Sheffield model railway
That's why I suggested laminating polystyrene over top of the wood in place of anything else, it takes paint better and is more predictable to work with. Cheers!
Another excellent video Charlie. With regards to cutting sheet material I was taught once that you should always pull the knife towards you not across. It seems to work well.
On my current layout I've used Metcalf self adhesive paving (although I used rocket card glue too) I found the process quite relaxing when I got properly into it. I've also used the ones without the self adhesive with good results. A charcoal stick can then be used sparingly to weather them
Small tip Charlie. Use a bachmann 08 for gauging up to the platform. Because the coupling rods can hit the platform edges and you end up with a twisted crank. I dont think I need to tell you how i know
Always enjoy your videos and humour! The platforms are coming on well, really like that brick edging in particular. Looking forward to Platform 2 - The Revenge in a couple of weeks 😂
Great video charlie turning 18 mm ply into an amazing looking platform l have watched the previous platform video and this one twice now and thought my middle platform 2 and 3 could do with a better makeover it didn’t have white edges mine is skaledale platform with steps at either end now it has a tarmac finish yellow safety lines down either side and then white edges as l have said before thanks again Charlie for your inspirational videos showing what we can achieve oh by the way your video the week when you had your self scanned by modelU and I thought that was amazing I got an email from my local model shop Rails of Sheffield about model U coming yesterday 24/August so l went down and what an amazing day l was dressed as a A4 driver for my Mallard on Beighton Parkway Sheffield you mentioned about laser cut platforms Mike Wilde of Key Model World has just put out a video about this very thing they sell laser cut platforms bay platforms and platform ramps if you want saw this on you tube on their Key model world channel l hope this is a help to you and your other subscribers Best Wishes Kev Beighton Parkway Sheffield
Looks great Charlie. I use a thin enamel wash using a sand colour as the base for my pointing. May be worth a try for a future project. Kind regards Martin
Doing a nice job charlie. Steve is a top chap eh. For Tarmac, Rustoleum ‘Aged Iron’ textured paint, then sand it back a bit works great. All the best, Eric
Great video again .If you dont succeed the first time try try again . An alternative method of the brick mortar is to use very thinned down paint .Enamels work best . Just point a small brush head laden with the paint and the capillary action will do the rest filling in between the bricks.
The new platform looks fantastic, great job! For installing of the brickwork there would be a little trick to make things easier: Clamp another piece of wood on the topside of the platform. This way you can just push the bricks against the wood an get a perfect edge.
Nice video. What you need is a compound mitre, which will do it much more accurately and easier than manually sawing it. Of course at a price. But once you have one of those you'll find you use it all the time.
Another really interesting and helpful video Charlie. I learn so much from your hints and tips. A pity to waste the 'failed' platform, which you could possibly use cut down as a disused goods platform somewhere on the layout? The broken edging wouldn't look out of place covered in weeds and grime. Thanks again for a thoroughly enjoyable video. All the best David
Brilliant once again, although I did notice a layer of bricks underneath the platform edging stones had been put on upside down! Never mind, I don't think the 4mm scale platform inspector will be bothered 👍
Looks good. Like the idea that this might come in sheets to speed the process. Not sure how that might work. There would be issues with continuity, scale and regional variations with tiled platforms. Like the drain down the middle. Having a sheet that included platform edges, tiles and drain would certainly speed the process. Thanks for another brilliant insight into scratch building platforms.
I have enjoyed see your progress with these platforms. With the tiles on the ramp, the tiles (as when you tile a bathroom, kitchen) should be cut so you don't have little thin strips. Great video, thank you.
I’m watching this platform development with interest Charlie. I shall be making some platforms for two long stations of four platforms each as well as a couple of little branch line island platforms in phase 3 of my build. That’s a little way off yet so lots of time to see if something can be developed here. I hope Steve & James are able to create something that works well and is reasonably easy to work with so that when I’m ready to build my stations there’s a product on the market. My island platforms will be curved as well, so interested to see if the final product offers that flexibility too.
Thanks Bryan , I’m so pleased that you found these videos interesting. I’m pretty sure that they will come up with a workable solution, but curved platforms are nightmare. Regards, Charlie.
MDF is like painting cardboard, the paint is sucked right into it and can look very patchy, so it needs to be primed and it doesn't like moisture and PVA is best for it. I was also thinking, why not etch it as one sheet, complete with edging, and leave the drain as a separate piece as it leaves options for the drain style and platform width. Revell Contacta also works on ABS plastics and I use the wire from a twist tie with the plastic removed to push down the steel tube to remove any blockage. Tamiya make an “extra thin” cement with a small brush in the lid that is excellent for “tacking” small parts in place, it has good capillary action and doesn’t leave a large glob of glue behind. Really enjoy your videos Charlie, well done.
Charlie . Looking so much better .Life's to short to sit and apply hundreds of individual laser cut stone slabs . The idea of designing and producing a full platform is so much better . Its our local show this weekend in Inverness so will mention your channel to get the numbers up .
As for the station surface I use wet and dry rubbing down sheets stuck to the surface and when dry then scribe the surface lightly to replicate the slates and edge.
Nice video as always. I was watching this and had the idea that there is probably a way to use the real life 'cheat' in H0 scale where they poor concrete and then stamp in a texture to make it look like bricks or stones. it might even be possible to do it with some sort of resin / rubber / silicone that remains flexible and that can be glued onto surfaces after having been painted etc.
Doing the brick water the paint down a bit it runs into the gaps easier to wipe off also. Plus instead of single bits for the platform mark two, can the MDF be scored so it looks like single bits. They do it with brick. Great as normal Charlie, two weeks is a week to long.
A much nicer job than the ceramic tiles. Of all three laser cut elements I liked the channel drains most. As everyone's platforms are different, rather than a sheet with all three elements together, there might be a market for runs of edging and sheets of paving to be cut to size by the user. Then it could be used for street paving as well. Just a thought. Less being more, if you want your Roket glue to go a bit further I can recommend decanting some into a quilling bottle. I use them for card glue and PVA and it's amazing how accurate you can be and how little glue is actually required. Cheers
Good work as always Charlie I think peco or someone does plastic paving. I’ve used similar when modelling pavement on my bridge of Sutherland road at Plymouth, incase wood swells up. I expect the key is a few light coats of paint at a time. It does look good. I think the advantage of wooden slabs is if you want to paint them different colours individually. It does take a lot of patience. I’ve done a few and modelled something else and come back to break up the monotony. A universal kit that could be used to make different shaped platforms would probably be music to several modellers ears.
I also came to the conclusion that it's fairly clear the individual stones make identical sections that are replicated along the platform. In other words, there is no need for them to be individual. A point about the gutter: I doubt if it would be one continuous length and there would be drains every so often - remember any buildings would need drainage from gutters etc and the end of the gutter needs somewhere to go! It's unusual for you to be unsure on how best to do something, a reminder we are all still learning? Look forward to seeing progress on this great endeavour!
Yet another stonker of a video Charlie. Really interesting to see the process of trial, error, success, improvement etc...The idea of an off the shelf laser cut platform surface sounds brilliant. My only thought was that a lot of platform canopy kits use a central support pillar - which may/may not work with the drains?
I do CAD and laser cutting at work. Having a single engraved sheet is a vastly better idea not just because it's easier to install by the modeller but for the company it'll be quicker to engrave the detail on one section of medite and then cut around the outside edge, as opposed to cutting each of those tiles. Less wear and tear on the laser!
To join sheets of brick or stone plasticard to make walls or viaducts, I've cut a matching recess in one vertical edge and the other with protruding courses. When interlocked together on the wall, the joins are much less noticeable. Any gaps can be further concealed with a smear of polyfilla or similar, then rubbed smooth with a finger. Visualise interlocking your fingers, to get the idea.
