Had this issue with a shower a while back where I’d done the first fix and the tiler moved the pipe work (I’d even left a timber with the holes drilled at 150mm centres over the tails which he’d removed (there not being enough room in the wall for a brace) 😖. Long story short, a combination of porcelain tiles and the tiler having packed a load of adhesive in the void meant that the only option was to break out the tiles at 4pm on a Friday to repipe it 😭! Needless to say words were had……
Brilliant job i have nor seen one of those trays fitted before and had no idea,there is no leveling ability to them,and you just silicone the base and drop it in ,of course making sure the concrete base is 100 per level,i also wondered how much of a job it was getting that 4-inch drain out of that whole and back again,thanks for this one,i learnt a lot from watching ,thanks again.
Hi Mark, I lost count of the things I learned from this film, thank you for that. I will have a shower tray and cubicle to fit for a family member soon, I’m glad you showed the shower waste being installed. It must be great when a quality job like that starts to come together, those bathrooms look fantastic now. A brilliant film as always, real world plumbing, my favourite. Have a good week, take care, regards, Chris. 👍👍👍
I’ve never had an issue with it in 10years of using it a lot. Trust me, if people were willing to pay the Labour for the extra time and materials I would fit it copper everywhere but people don’t want to now.
You make it look so easy mark it's like poetry in motion. We get the plastic plumber jibes 70% of our jobs are plastic 20% maincor and the remaining 10% copper it's a sign of the times most sites you go on now won't allow hot works and if they do it's only for gas and you have to be well insured and on the ball.
Thanks Adie….. 🙏🏼🙏🏼 Yep it’s about moving with the times and as always a lot of people want it cheap…. I would love to be able to do it all in copper but the bill would be huge🙈🙈
Best way to keep 150mm centres are either. 1. Use elbows in between the tails so they never move then cut them off when ready to tile etc. 2. Use the template back plates that you can get now. Only work if you are working on timber framed walls but then no need to sweat that valve won't fit👌👌
@@MJTiffPlumbing pens who's tiling 😂 Clipped pipework can also move. Shower back plate valves if you can use them will prevent movement and only around £15.00. Maybe more down in London 🙄😂
Lovely job that is mate! Quality video! Place looks amazing! A million miles from the council repairs I do! 😔 good job I get stuck into private work also! Or I would literally go insane! Take care matey and look forward to your future videos!
@@MJTiffPlumbing my day to day is a council run estate same houses and flats. Same stuff ripped out and same stuff back in, Monday to Friday for past 14 years! Can get you down at times so always try to keep busy with other things as well. Love this type of stuff. You can just tell everyone’s skill and commitment is really paying off! Keep in with them mate and they will see you right I’m sure!
@@MJTiffPlumbing yeah it’s me my brother and my old man who are contracted on that estate. Even done the same properties now multiple times. Old man is 61 now so when he retires guess I can branch out more. There’s only so much you can achieve being paid on a price for your work. With materials going up in price it gets harder. Atleast my own gaff is spotless and done to a high standard. Patching up this and that on a day to day basis really does become a bore haha! It’s become so easy now doing the same thing over and over that you don’t need to think about it. Unlike the stuff featured in this video where you actually have to use your noggin to get round issues. Would be good if you could get a video on the whole completed project before it gets handed over. 👍
@@MarcGray1990 fair play to you all mate….. it’s done you all well by the sounds of it, but I know what you mean,you want to use your brain a bit. Will be going over the whole build when it’s done mate👍🏼👍🏼
Some tray manufacturers,Mira one of them,actually recommend in their installation instructions fixing the tray down with silicone.Not all silicones being equal tho',I've found that acetoxy silicone onto primed ply or chip does not stick very well at all. Better off with a hybrid polymer as you mentioned
Great video and what a lovely home they are going to end up in 😍 . I love your channel and have been binge watching them for few weeks now due to my son doing his apprenticeship in bathroom and kitchen fitting, he's picked up some great tips from you and gone into work and it's made his job easier. Can't wait to see the finished job on this one though . Keep up the good work and appreciate you taking time to film your day . 👍
I looked into my crystal ball, and called it spot on with your solution to get 150 centres for shower! Must be worth a prize 😉. I had same issue with my knipex cutters, pretty annoying to be honest! Great content mark. Well done 👍
I use tile adhesive mortar underneath drys and cracks it needs to breath to dry. Unlike tile adhesive it just sticks. I look at that tray as like a massive ceramic floor tile really
Is there a plumbing code where youdo your plumbing? The venting of a plumbing system is a llot different where I am from. also Saddles are not allowed on DWV systems.
Great video again & thanks for making & spending time editing adding the sound music etc & working full time too! Hats off. Re plastic pipe over copper, you’ve heard of Buteline stuff? Came across it, a New Zealand product over here & excellent as crimp fittings that much better than push plus also do solder to crimp type. Well worth a look. Re the shower pipes, I sometimes find holes round tiles been made too big so those brackets are a right pain to try to drill & fit! Also a important point to highlight to folks is the sealing round copper pipe on shower pipes; use GB pro or CT1 as the acid content in silicone reacts with copper & can eat at it.
Had a speedfit blow off on a bathroom job second fix not long ago. Luckily it shot across the room into the 1500x900 walk in enclosure and went down the drain and didn't make a mess....😰
Really coming on now bud. That's great having that easy access for all the pipes on the bathroom. Thanks for all the tips as always. 😊 I don't get all the plastic haters out there. Use the best system for your application whatever it is. Pros and cons to all of them including copper. What's your take on mlcp just out of interest? Shropshire escaped the worst of the storm proper blowy but not as bad as down south.
Sparky trick and all sort of trick… 😂 All matter is not a matter if you got more experience and more idea to make it work.. good video as always and that little room definitely life saver for future maintenance…
Every plumber I know beds them on silicone, the idea of sand and cement is that if the floor cracks it won’t travel into the tray because it will delaminate first. Not known one to crack on silicone yet though to be fair, have seen them get a bit of a rock though on timber floors where the silicones not quite generous enough. And silicone will eat the washer eventually and the seal will fail over time. They’re not designed to have silicone smeared over them!!
Mate, I had no end of issues with the Rothernberger Plasticut Pro(the one the does 32mm and 40mm). Worked fine with 32mm, but tramlined something rotten on 40mm. Ended up getting drop kicked. 🤣 The monument ones seem alright, but they’re separate sizes.
Hi MJ, agreed nothing wrong with plastic unless its floating around in the sea killing critters or someone tries to fit it on to chrome 😞. Personal preference Speedfit for easy demounting. Also always used to use bracket for shower pipes but good get out of jail. All looking good geezer and catch you in the next one 👌.
Hey Great video as usual. Nothing wrong with plastic in my book either. i use hep but a bit of a ball ache if need to demount, Out of interest what fitting do you use? Had the same issue on a bathroom i was doing tiler moved one of the feeds slightly . from then on i use the Marflow Shower PL8 , keeps the pipes dead on and rock solid , stacks of fixing points so easy to get dead level too, no bracket to drill on second fix just the olive and the thread and tighten up and your done. Best £20 i spend on every first fix shower now, so easy and no issues with pipes moving !! Looks great there your doing a great job , i love watching every week so thanks for taking the time to make these videos so many tips that are helpful too. Bring on the next episode 👍😊
Me too, I'm a pro bathroom fitter and wouldn't dream of using anything other than a PL8. I make them up in bulk on a piece of ply with the copper drops, every few months to save me time on site.
I use speedfit/pushfit all the time, never had any issues with it and like you say if it’s not on show it’s a much easier and cheaper way to pipe up. Especially with the price off copper/fittings at the moment💸😂
I noticed you dont mark.the plastic pipe when putting the fittings on. No biggie, and I know it's a pain, but I taught my lads to always mark the depth of the fitting stop on the pipe so you know its pushed all the way in.
great content again mark i use push fit swell and just bit the bullett and in the press fit gang now well impressed i bought the rothenbourg press gun keep up the good work 👌👊👊
Shame you had to cut out the dpm, hope it’s a dpm not a radon barrier anyway!!! Pretty annoying the trap location wasn’t taken into account when designing the drain locations!
Trap location was taken into account, that’s why it was where it was….. so we can connect on easily. And that wasnt DPM mate, DPM is UNDER the insulation….. that was the under floor heating covering that was carried through….
@@MJTiffPlumbing every floor is designed different, I can see that’s just screed now after second glance. Floor system we’re using atm has membrane over the insulation
Hi mark,love your channel.always informative & in the "real world"....hope you don't mind me asking,regarding bossing baths, basins,showers waste into soil pipe either vertically or horizontally ,is their any regulations to adhere to ie, distance from toilet outlet or if they should go above or below toilet outlet to prevent smell & back syphoning to baths etc .. cheers col
Top Job…..Top Man Those bathrooms are looking soooooo nice bud 👌🏼 You’re a braver man than me!! I didn’t leave the house until 3pm on Friday with that weather 😂😂
Well done m8 looking good I know it’s only a small run but are you not ment to run the hot on the top and cold on the bottom? Jue to legionella. I could be wrong I’m still leaning
Was my thoughts too. I've been watching too many plumb like Tom videos. 😁 Bit of lagging on the hot would sort it I'd imagine. I'm just in awe of some things f these plumbers though. I think I've done well changing a tap on my own then watch these. Good luck with your training I start in May all being well. 😊
Lagging stops that being an issue mate and with heat displacement it’s not a problem in most cases. It’s when pipes are strapped together it’s a bigger problem
The Mira shower tray instructions tell you to use silicone sealant to stick them down. As long as you use the manufacturers guidelines there will be no comeback
@@MJTiffPlumbing why, though, did you use silicone on the waste ? They advise you not to? I am fitting one this week and was just going to use the ring washer supplied
@@jonneym I’ve always siliconed wastes into trays, as the washers/rubbers have been known to leak. Most people silicone waste fittings into trays/basins/baths etc so it’s a proven way of having no leaks. Each to there own as I always say, this is how I do it👍🏼
Must get myself a set of them sucker pads they come down a lot in price since last time I looked as im sick of sore fingers and screwdrivers propping it if ya get me 😂
What do you think of the JG inserts with 2 seals on it? It seems the insert head is quite thick and effectively there seems to be less pipe inserted into the fitting. Do you think this may cause any future issues?
He’s built his portfolio over the last 25years to get to this point….. he’s one of them guys that just grafts and grafts, more at home in his transit then his car…..🙌🏼🙌🏼
When we price out a job the only difference is often labour and not by much as generally plastic is more expensive than copper down here. I've lost count of the issues in new builds with plastic where the inserts have blown out, either due to pipe ends not being perfectly square,eroding the plastic away and blasting out the fitting. Or more commonly not being able to handle the constant temps of hot water secondaries. Each has benefits and situations it's best for.
You must be getting copper VERY cheap them mate 30m copper is around £100 30m plastic is about £40 I know years ago they used to use metal inserts in plastic pipes and that was a huge issue…. Now it’s all plastic I’ve not had a problem at all. Like you say they both have there places👍🏼👍🏼
@@MJTiffPlumbingJust been using hep20 pipe and fittings and the inserts are metal, they seem like some kind of alloy, were the old type fittings steel ?, hope they are ok. had to alter 10mm plastic microbore pipes for a towel rad, i used speedfit elbows first of all and found that after fitting i could grab the pipe and pull it apart ! , went and got hep20 elbows and they were more of a positive fit, think i will always use hep20 from now on.
@@MJTiffPlumbing Yeah Copper is about £90 per 30m but plastic works out at £60 per 30m. By the time you ad the fittings there's not much in it. We're Southern Counties base though where plastic generally is more expensive and copper is generally cheaper than the average. Once you take into account inserts/fittings etc the price really does just come down to labour for us. It's actually the plastic inserts on Hep20 pipe that we've recently been seeing the issues with. We've seen it with Speedfit and others before, same fault. Just down to people rushing because of price.
Did you put the tray down with anything? Just looked like you dropped it in straight on to the board? Normally I fix it down with something if it not on a leg set.
Sucker pads! Why the hell didn’t I think of that before and save my trapped hands, arms and language when trying to lay trays. Next purchase…glazing suckers 👍
Nice content bud👍🏻 I use CT1 on trays as I feel it has a bit more guts to it if you know what I mean? Have you used BT1 yet? My Rothenburger slices do that from time to time too!
Oh so you hadn’t heard of it either! BT 1 is their answer to anti mould/ fungal. I never knew it existed until Friday but theyre claiming it works! I’ll give it a go on the next shower I install👍🏻
Hi Mark.. just doing my bathroom and going to be fitting an 800 x 1200 resin type shower tray.... again instructions say bed on 5mm sand/cement .... however was thinking of using plasterboard adhesive troweled out using a 10mm notched trowel... do you reckon this would work?
Dry run onto window packers to make level making sure the waste sits nice . Then full bed of tile adhesive 5mm higher than your packers and small bead of ct1 on the waste last thing before you drop it in 👍🏻
Has to be flexible to some degree. Drywall adhesive won’t give you the flex you need. Tile adhesive can work and plenty of people use it but I think the way forward will be polymer glues. You need to consider whether your on concrete or wooden substrates as well. There is never one solution for stuff on a building site. A lot of the time you have to be adaptive and work problems out as they come up
Great vid…again! Many houses around here lost parts of their roofs due to Eunice, including my neighbour’s, which then landed on my garage roof! Plenty of damage and it has to come off my insurance!! Anyways, did you use a solvent collar on the shower waste in the floor? Also curious about how you deal with the hole in the damp proof membrane i.e. the blue stuff? Do you have to patch it up, or do you just leave it as it is?
@@MJTiffPlumbing Thanks for responding and I should’ve been clearer! I was specifically referring to patching- up the damp-proof course before back-filling? By internal bung, are you referring to a 110mm / 40 mm internal drain connector, like the one that McAlpine sell? Cheers
The damp membrane should be under the insulation really. The membrane over the insulation is usually to stop the screed or concrete flowing under the insulation and making it float. But i could be totally wrong🤣
@@boyasaka I was referring to the 110mm pipe. Anyway, the solvent pipe is well-suited to the compression connector on the trap and you’ll have no issues there as it is designed for exactly that reason. The way you convert between different pipe sizes and types is via a compression connector. HTH
Don’t really know what you mean???? To test it before installing it, you would just fill it up with water while it’s in your hand!!! If you mean how do I test the trap WHEN it’s installed…… you don’t as you can see it’s in the floor. You just have to trust your work 👍🏼👍🏼
I don’t mate….. unfortunatly being a self employed sole trader and with my workload it’s not an option, I would have the time to put into one….. unfortunatly. I always get asked and have a lot of people asking if they can work with me but what I say is to get on with a company with 5/6+ plumbers so you learn a wide range👍🏼👍🏼