Additional Notes: 1.) Be sure to read comments below for some great insights. 2.) The yellow tape I show in this video is PTFE thread sealing tape made specifically for sealing the threads on pipes used for gas lines. It is thicker than the white teflon tape typically used for water systems. My experience has been that the yellow tape works better than the white, and it is my understanding that it is perfectly okay to use it with water pipes.
WHY DIDN'T YOU USE THAT TAPE AND DOPE ON THAT LAST PIECE? ALSO WHY WOULDN'T YOU USE LEVERAGE WHEN REMOVING THAT TOOL YOU USED TO TIGHTEN THE PIPE IN THE HOLE? ALSO, WHAT BRAND TAPE, I DIDN'T KNOW THERE WERE CHEAP VERSIONS VS BETTER OR GOOD VERSIONS OF TAPE. MAKES SENSE TO USE BOTH, BUT I'D NEVER THOUGHT OF THAT EITHER. I BOUGHT SOME PIPE DOPE, WANTING WHITE BUT ENDED UP WITH BLUE AND ITS WATERY AND CLUMPY, I HATED IT. LASTLY CAN YOU TELL ME HOW TO FIX THE CONCRETE BOLT AREA WHERE THE COMMODE SITS TO HOLD IT TO THE FLOOR? MINE BROKE. THANKS
@@wheepingwillow24u17Please stop SCREAMING! Also, the question is very vague....what is broke, the concrete itself? Also, asking a question as a 'response' to a comment probably won't get you anything at all. Also, you also-ed a lot! 😆😆👍🏻🛠️🔧🤔⚙️🧰👨🏻🔧🚿🚽🛁🚱
Just an fyi for those looking to learn, pipe nipples for water are National Pipe Thread (NPT). National Pipe Thread is the US standard for tapered threads on tapered pipes and fittings in applications that carry fluids and gasses. National Pipe Thread is the most common fitting used in the United States and Canada. NPT threads are tapered and have a thread angle of 60°. The threads have flat peaks and valleys, also known as a Sellers form. Tapered threads form a dry seal and are designed to work in conjunction with Teflon tape or a sealing compound to prevent leakage. The Teflon tape is mostly a lubricant for the threads to seat all the way to form a mechanical seal but they do offer some additional sealing. It is susceptible to tearing on any machining mistakes on those threads. Thread sealant fills in those areas where it may be damaged.
Thanks for this. I recently had occasion to ask a young plumber recently out of school what the best way is to make up connections like this. He said that what is taught as current best practice is exactly what you show. He also recommended the Blue Monster as one of your other commenters did.
This is great. I stumbled upon doing this buy trial and error. I was reluctant to do this since I thought I was doing something wrong with just tape or dope. When I finally combined them, I was happy to find no leaks! Before that 1/4 to 1/3 failure.
I work for myself now but I was a union fire sprinkler fitter and we always doped the pipe thread then Teflon tape and if you were really concerned you add some dope on the inside of the female fitting. Dope then tape is cleaner as the dope is under the tape and won't pick up any dirt or debris.
Everyone wants threaded pipe joints that don't leak! I learned this same thing from observing the work of other plumbers, who used both tape and dope. Belt and suspenders, I guess! It works. I have noticed that chrome pipes are the hardest to seal because the chrome is so hard and smooth that it doesn't meld into the female threads like brass does.
I second the tape + dope technique. I was having a hard time getting a nipple in a stub out to stop dripping and my father in law suggested both tape and dope. It worked and it has worked every time since. I don't always use both, but if I'm at all concerned I definitely do. BTW, instead of using gas line (non-potable) products for water lines, I use Blue Monster PTFE tape and dope. High quality tape is a game changer!
Blue Monster is just thicker Teflon tape. You can get teflon tape in that thickness for half the price. That being said, there's nothing wrong with the BM branded stuff. BM also sells a wider tape which is nice because you can just wrap in the same spot and it covers all the threads needed.
Great video lot of information just a heads up I'm a high pressure steam specialist for almost 40 years I will reverse that process put the dope on the threads first and then the tape keeps the hands clean, and I never need to use dope on high pressure steam fittings just tape.
Really good video. I have used this method on all my jobs for years. The yellow rector seal is great stuff and should be used on potable water systems. However, I have always used the white teflon rector seal paste on gas, air, outdoor and underground systems. Thanks for a quality job video.
To be honest, these were great tips. The tape you are using is “Gas Tape”, Teflon tape rated for gas fittings. So this makes sense. I worked with a plumber, years ago, that said to use both, and I did NOW AND THEN. I’ll do it all the time now. Your brand of dope, I’ve always used Oatey, I’ll try yours now. Finally, the internal wrench. Great.
I had a terrible time getting a brass fitting to seal in a stainless female hole. Asked a friend who was a professional plumber and he recommended blue monster tape and dope. I like the blue lava. Dope. Works great. Also some door on the female threads if you have a large fitting or just need some extra assurance. Just make sure it’s not too much, don’t want any clogs inside.
Herrick, i could not help but notice the slotted brass or brass plated wood screws that you used to attach the drop ear, instead of the drywall screws that the "pros" use, nice job!
That's crazy. Good eye too, man. I despise straight slotted screws so much. I can't believe you went to that extent to add brass hand-drive screws...yes, I know you can use a powered tool to screw flat heads in, but it's difficult & almost easier to hand drive -especially if pilot holed. I use torx construction screws, or Phillips lath screws to fasten my drop-ear stub-out's. Torx is probably the best next to Robertson, then Phillips for speed & ease of use screws. Of course hex(¼\⁵/¹⁶) is king but not too many screws are hex drive besides sheet metal & tapcons, etc. 🛠️🔩🔧🔩🗜️📏🧰🦺🚧🤔👍🏻👌🏻😀🍻
Keep in mind to is to start tape and pipe dope two threads back of end of pipe so that when twisting on the tape or the pipe dope doesn't push out of female end causing gas valves or other to plug up. My choices are hillside chemicals, permatex and retroseal compounds are my go to refrigerate and natural gas and potable water connections. All day I'm to words that teach me!(The Fixx)
Loctite PST is a one-and-done operation to seal threaded pipe connections to any temperature and pressure you will find in a residential system upon application. Also...if you have to "manifold" piping to line-up fittings or fixtures, it allows you to do that as well with no leaks even if the pipe joint has not been fully tightened to its tapered-thread limits. The product only hardens in the joint, never in the tube, and it is just-about foolproof. Teflon tape has been a bugaboo in pipe-thread sealant uses since WWII, where it was used in aircraft hydraulics.
I use the newer pipe dope with Teflon in it. My experience with the Teflon tape has not been good. I will rember to look for some Quality tape the next time I am in Lowes. Great Vdeo
Thanks for this wonderful tip. Ive marred up many a nice chrome pipes without having the right tool. I ordered this set of wrenches from your link, although the reviews are not so steller. Ill trust your recommendation. Thanks.
Hi Roy, The General pipe wrenches are what I have and seem to work well. I don’t use them very often. I had an old 1/2” PROTO that served me well for years, until I lost it. The far better quality internal pipe wrenches are made by PROTO. But they are a whole lot more money. Worth it if you want top quality. They are also available at Amazon. 👍
Good demo. I've been fighting chronic drippage with a lawn irrigation manifold I put together in summer 2022. It's standard plastic valves and PVC fittings with white Teflon and Oatey pipe dope. .Have had parts of that thing apart numerous times for drips at the valve inlets or the unions used to connect to the supply side. Never had such problems back in the day. Maybe these threaded parts have been cheaped out in recent years. System is off for the winter and will be building a new manifold soon using your method..
Make sure whatever dope your using is ok to put on plastic pipe threads. I'd be worried, cause some of them have oil\petroleum products in them that could interfere with the plastics. Just a heads up. 👍🏻👌🏻👨🏻🔧🤔🛠️🔧🚰💧🚽🚿🛁
I remember when they first started using teflon tape as opposed to the string and pipe dope method. My uncle would always use pipe dope with the tape. I just did a bath tub spout it came complete with the teflon tape. Their recommendation was to wrap it 6 times, so cheap stuff is hard to work with and you need twice as much. You're not saving money. Ever since it helped me seal some old radiator spud joints I swear by Oatey Great White pipe joint compound. Bottom line is you find quality materials stick with them till they give you reason to switch.
This is correct for all applications except on ice machines or drinking fountains. One other thing be real carefull when installing nipple into brass. It is pretty soft when it contracts and expands it will split the wing ell . I know from experience. 😅 great video
Oh, its also a good idea to wrap the tape around the pipe threads in the proper direction both circularly and spirally to ensure the tape doesnt push off when you screw it in the fitting. That might make a good short video itself.
I was told that if you twist the tape enough to make it look like a string and then wrap it in the threads then wrap threads the usual way that will work also with no mess, have done a few like this and so far no leaks.
@@michaelallen5505 some tape is wide enough to just wrap straight around on top of itself. However, in cases where you'll have screw the pipe in much further, it would go beyond one width of the tape. So you start wrapping further away from the end of of the pipe and and as you wrap, you come closer to the end of the pipe, ending just at the last thread closest to the end of the pipe. That wrapping pattern will form a spiral. If you started at the end of the pipe and worked your way down the threads away from the end, then it's possible that when you screw the pipe into the fitting, the bite of the fitting could start pushing those layers off the threads.
Fascinating to see the mostly small differences in materials and techniques between the UK and the USA. I drooled a bit over the internal pipe wrench, which I haven't seen before, although we use almost entirely copper or brass pipe here even for stubs. Personally I prefer ptfe string wound criss/cross, but the biggest difference is that I would always 'distress' the threads to stop the ptfe wrap from slipping. The plumber's gunge (jointing compound?) In the video looked a lot more covenient than the one I use (JetLube), but mine comes in a tub and needs stirring, although it never deteriorates beyond that.
Just the liquid sealant is sufficient, used it for 30years with no problems, 90% of pipe leaks are caused by not tightening it enough, tape can cause week joints when you use too much and then they will leak with age
Just curious why use a finish nipple during rough-in instead of temp nipples. Use the shutoffs for a wrench grab after the walls are done. Either way good advice. Always tape and drop. 20+ years in the biz and never had a leak
I agree on installing the chrome nipple before the sheetrock. It is easy to clean the sheet rock mud off and escutcheon ring and valve with less labor too.
I done heating and air installation for 10 yrs and had to do some plumbing equipment as well and a lot of gas pipe, and I would use Teflon tape and blue leak lock pipe dope and would soap bubble and pressure test all of my connections and never had a leak.
The other trick is to put a SMALL amount of dope on the female threads. Read the can of dope. Rectorseal "True Blue" recommends this on pipe 1 1/4 and larger. I don' do that on smaller sizes but 1 1/4 and up I do. And I will do this when reconnecting to old fitting which may be worn or nicked.
Been a plumber for 10 year. Before that worked on semi trucks and trailers for 8 years. 1 step I would add is thread sealant BEFORE tape. Then thread sealant on female threads. I have had to redo other people's connections when there is no thread sealant under the tape on the male threads
At least you were openminded enough to ask. There's the kind of guys who won't ask a man for advice or a simple question bc of their pride. Then there's men like you 👍🏻 & "here we all are" 🤭
Some "authorities" maintain that Teflon tape and/or pipe dope do not seal the threads but they act as a lubricant so the connection can be tightened sufficiently for a good seal. It does not matter what they do as long as there are no leaks.
Fire sprinkler guy. Dope then tape all day. But we also fab more than 1 pipe at a time. That's why there will be 1 sprinkler guy per 15-20 plumbers. The standard is 200 psi (water for 2 hours). Typically pipe metal threads seal on the 4-5 thread. If that was a ss nipple he used he would of split that brass fitting going in that deep. Don't use tape before regulator's. Rector seal isn't good dope. Megaloc or blue monster.
Try it the other way around. First a little dope, way less than what you applied. And as last the tape. Clean the before you make the joint, and cleaned afterwards. You can put a tiny bit on the internal threads, for good measure. Always rough up your threads, to keep the tape on his place.
Teflon tape is a thread sealant, pipe dope is a thread sealant. Using both together is the same as using one brand of pipe dope and another brand of pipe dope together. If you use quality pipe dope and quality male and female fittings and proper techniques you won't have any leaks. But then what do I know from being a plumber for 45 years!
Let me know where you get "quality" threads on anything anymore. We use mostly stainless now. Dope acts as a lubricant to keep the tape from binding. Would love to see how many joints hold with just dope
Threading stainless can cause chatter on the threads if the proper cutting lubricant is not used and this CAN be a problem. I have 40 plus years of plumbing and pipe fitting experience. During a lot of those years, I was a superintendent on multimillion dollar jobsites and my crews used only quality pipe dope. I would not even hazard a guess on how many hundreds of thousands of threaded joints we installed. On these buildings there is a warranty period of up to two years and I would have been informed of any leaks during the warranty period.@@StevenCollins-x4h
You can buy the white tape in the same thickness as the yellow, although it can be harder to find. Oatey makes it and you can get it at most hardware stores. I believe it's grey in color.
actually the proper to proper way to tigthen that 3" nipple without marring is it to put the other part and use that part to tighten both that part and the nipple at the same time. do so avoid marring the inside part of the nipple which could cause leak in the future.
Sometimes, the thicker tape is to rigid and slips over itself. The thinner stuff stays in place and compresses better around the pipe as it enters the female socket.
I don’t do much metal pipe, mostly pvc for commercial home and office aquarium systems. I can’t use pipe dope. I use teflon, usually a couple more wraps, like 5 or 6 wraps, and then follow it up with 100% silicone on the threads. I even do it with the metal fittings I’ve had to use. Anyone can tell me I’m doing it wrong but I’ve never had a leak in the 10 years I’ve been working on them.
@@larrylesueur8958 You’re telling me. I had some sch 80 ½” x ¼” reducers that were cracking left and right and I was being blamed for using too much tape so I started doing 3 wraps and even 1 wrap and they still cracked. Turns out it was a bad batch from Spears. For the spa pumps I use on the intake and discharge for commercial systems we have to wrap them like 15-20 times to make it a tight fit!
Tapered threads need a lube to prevent galling while tightening the fittings. Two lubes are not necessary, and too much dope or tape can give the impression of a water tight connection, only to leak as it degrades over time. It’s a lubricant, not a filler. To suggest otherwise shows a fundamental misunderstanding of how tapered couplings seal.
Thanks for that! I presume they seal by the larger diameter section of the tapered pipe butting against the fitting. But isn't pipe dope needed to fill any small openings after the pipe seats? Seems like more than just lube..
You’re correct in that I popped off with a simplistic answer. Galvanized and raw cast iron are malleable and will seal with almost any lube that prevents galling. Dissimilar metals sometimes require a paste to prevent galvanic reactions. U.S., Canadian, and British threads are all different. Some 300+ BAR gas lines take no lube or sealant, and others like high pressure steam or hydraulic lines take. Unique sealant. But based on your profession you know all of that! For anything other than low pressure water lines I do exactly what the manufacturer or technical orders call for. Sorry for the rant. I shouldn’t drink while watching RU-vid!
Metal pipe threads can crack a female fitting before the threads are seated well. Where possible I will bush up one size larger pvc female connector then use a threaded reducing bushing. This has never failed me when transitioning from pvc to metal either direction.
Plumber I know likes Teflon tape over Teflon dope. It does sort of encapsulate the dope squeeze out. I scrape my dope finger off in the threaded female bell.
It is my belief that using both tape and dope is just a waste of teflon tape and time. The dual combo is nothing magic. I am over 70 and I have been using these products (and more) than most people because teflon tape and silicone grease and the like were available to scientists, like myself, way before they were available to the general public. I would never use teflon tape on NPT fittings where I did not want a leak. Teflon tape just makes it easy to assemble and disassemble things; sometimes it works to stop leaks and sometimes it doesn't, as was mentioned in the video. As torque is applied, the teflon tape gets shredded and the dope squeezes in there. It is the dope that makes the seal. Just use the right kind of pipe dope. A compressed gas cylinder in a scientific lab will be over 2,000 psi when delivered. A typical house water delivery system won't get above 125 psi before the T&P relief valve opens. For the high pressures of compressed gas cylinders, neither tape or dope is used. Compression fittings are used without any sealant, but you see people on RU-vid swearing that pipe dope must be used on household compression fittings like stop valves. When you get a leak in your house, you might get water damage. When you get a leak in a lab, it can be fatal.
I am 77 years old, started out doing plumbing and electrical as an apprentice at 17. I remember the yellow rector seal long before the teflon tape and teflon rector seal hit the market. No call backs yet on the rector seal only joints but, but I do use both tape and dope on all my joints today. Actually did several joints yesterday.
I remember figuring this out of desperation on a power steering line. Nothing, leaked. Telfon tape, leaked. Telfon tape again, leaked. Telfon tape and sealant, no leak.
If the PVC threads are female, I strongly prefer only dope. Only if screwing male PVC into female metal threads will I use tape. The tape adds bulk and female PVC is already stressed by the force of tapered threads. Being PVC the threads are soft and do not need the gap filling provided by the tape, just the lubrication provided by the pipe dope (I always use dope with PTFE aka teflon). Read the label and make sure your dope is listed for use on PVC. In my experience most are that are intended for potable water lines.
Its code nowadays,, think of it this way,, MECHANICAL SEAL = TEFLON TAPE & ADHEASIVE SEAL = PTFE PASTE PIPE SEALANT DON'T OVER TIGHTEN NO LEAKS 95% TIME
You are doing it all wrong. It’s expensive to use those fittings and valves. Pipe it out with plastic pipe and then as the valve after drywall is finished
