My girlfriend’s dad had the same issue with his 2015 850 XP. Ended up taking out the trans too plowing snow last year. So in the spring it got a new primary and a new used transmission.
Really nice video showing the fixes you did! I live in Sweden and as I also use it for some plowing work so I sure need to fix things here and there with my 550 from time to time (I have the Sportsman Forest version 2013 model). My impression is that it rides well, but there are always something need fixing, so I guess I have some kind of love-hate relationship with my machine! :D
Are you saying i shouldnt just watch the RU-vid video titled "remove your clutch using bread" to take my Polaris sportsman clutch loose? (Yes. Thats actually a video😂)
Man i have been waiting so long for this video! I love the Polaris videos, and this was a very nice machine to see get this kind of treatment! Also, i really think it is time for you to get yourself a camera mount for the chest or something, i cant even comprehend how you make these videos one handed lol. Great job! You got a very lucky customer!
Watched this video and had to say it was very informative and you’re a very fair businessman. Good to see in today’s world. I repair machines for friends strictly on a you buy parts and I’ll install them ( non profit) and I’ve used RU-vid a lot to build my knowledge and skills. Thanks for a great video and for being who you are and for that , I’m a new subscriber!
I have a 2010 550XP having the same issue. Had to order a new primary clutch assembly, however it’s constantly grabbing the belt, no matter how I shim it. I’m thinking of returning it. Do you recommend any specific brand or should I shell out the cash and buy Polaris? Heck, I’d buy one from you if you had one! Thanks!
I just came came across your channel. Great content I just subscribed. I have a 2011 550XP so this is very relevant. I am getting a ratcheting sound in low gear when I let off the throttle problem i am trying to figure out. I would appreciate any thoughts youmay have on that.
I noticed you've said for the plowing this customer had his front suspension set up stiff. But actually the customer cannot adjust suspension stiffness, only preload (suspension sag) It is a long time misconception. You don’t adjust the stiffness of the ride with the preload adjustments. You adjust riding height. Only the best shocks allow "stiffness" adjustments via compression and rebound adjustments. I'm sure this polaris does not have these adjustments. Depending on how much you load your vehicle (in this case attaching a snow plow to the front), you have to adjust the ride height (preload). If you drive with a load, often with people, with a snow plow attached, making the preload setting on the highest setting on the front will help you reduce the suspension sag and improve the suspension while you are loaded with weight and driving. You might ask, why not make the preload on the highest setting always, the more the better right? I thought so too. But remember, suspension does not only move upwards when you hit a bump, but it also moves down when you drive into a pothole. The key for a good suspension is to make your vehicle glide over the obstacles like rocks and potholes without making the wheel lose contact with the road. Ideally a good suspension will make you glide over the road without feeling nor rocks, nor potholes. The more you increase the preload, the more you increase the chances that the wheel while driving over a pothole will not be able to reach the bottom of the pothole. If you reduce the preload as much as you can, it can be so that when you drive over bigger rocks, there will be not enough upward suspension travel left to take the bump. Preload has to be adjusted smartly. Not too much, not too little, but it highly depends on how much weight/people ride in your vehicle. Suspension sag/riding height is what you adjust with suspension preloads :) In this case, the customer has maxed out his polaris preload setting. With a snow plow it might drive better, but without the snow plow, it feels stiff, since there is not much suspension travel left for the downward movement (hitting a pothole).
I encourage people who watch these videos to try to make a similar one of an oil change on their own. It would be eye-opening to a lot of people how hard this is to do. Great work and great attitude.
@rockspowersports the 850s don't. Juat the 1000. At first I was bothered by it. But I don't think it bothers me as much really. Just one more thing to fry out
@donaldpeck3192 Good to know! And yeah especially how they are designed with mudding in mind, I’d probably rather go without. Expensive to repair when they break.
very nice, question on the primary clutch on the older polaris (1989 trailboss 250) do they have the one way bearing also? I am getting ready to service mine. checking the service manual it appears they do not.
I was waiting for the Polaris 550 video. I have the same 550 as yours. Just the basic one no power steering. I got it for $450. But it burns oil. I think it’s the valve seals. Because I did a compression test. And got 225psi. Have you ever done the valve seals on one of these 550’s ? I wish you were closer to me I would have you do it for a video. Anyway. Great video as always. Cheers buddy.
Man $450 was a steal! It very well could be the valve seals. Does it clear up at all when it’s warmed up? I have not had to do the 550 valve seals yet but I’m sure it’s the same as all of them. I’ve done 850’s and 570’s.
@@rockspowersports no it still smokes bad. When you did the valve seals on the 850. Did you make a video. I don’t think I have seen it. And I think I seen all your videos. (Big fan of your channel) :)
That was an awesome price on the power steering! My power steering went bad on my Sportsman 850. I can’t find it anywhere online for less than $1900. Where can you get it for $1000? Used ones on EBay are 6 to 800. $200 was a steal for your customer. Sadly I drive mine around with no power steering because it’s so expensive to fix.
