I found a huge meat clever when I was cleaning out an old house. It was rusted and still had blood mixed in with the rust. The blade and handle was pitted and covered in rust. Thanks for the video, the cleaver which now is a wall hanger looks great and you saved me a ton of time and effort. I am sending you a coors
It is too pretty to use! Honestly, I competed in lumberjack events in Hayward Wisconsin, USA where we polished and sharpened our axe heads to the same degree of shine. My hats off to you for mighty fine work! BillS.
Very nice, I especially liked how you could see your reflection at the end, but do you know of any more easily available products I could use? Not tool wise, but polish wise? Thanks!
I am an apprentice blacksmith. This video was very helpful. I don't own a buffer wheel yet so I just sand it by hand with varying grits of sandpaper from 80-2000. I can't wait to use the proper methods. What brand of liquid mirror did you use?
You gotta sand with higher grit sandpaper to get a true mirror polish . and a new sisal pad makes a huge difference . you have to get up to at least 3000 grit before you move on to the sisal pad and after that then do your final buff and that shit will have a true mirror polish . gotta use that compound !
If I was to polish a barrel to a rifle, could I juse this technique? Would I get the same results if I used a pumice wheel once I sand it down to the bare metal?
you find that if you go against the grain of the glaze you will polish your mettle faster and do a better job also keep your peace moving so you don't cut a grove into the metal
Do they make handheld buffing tools? I have one I use for buffing paint when I finish painting, I doubt that will work. I want to polish some forged/twisted steel on a motorcycle frame and I can't use my bench grinder to do it. Can you clear coat over the steel once you polished it?
@rexschaller leather gloves mind you... cotton gloves or any kind of soft glove and rotary tools does not go well. its an easy way to lose a finger. most of the time i polish bare handed; id rather get a burn or a cut then have a glove catch and watch my finger get flown across the room. i wear leather with my die grinder though; it gets cold from the air and its farrr easier to get a cut, and the risk of glove catching is minimal.
Hi, you seem to know a bit about steel so I hope you can solve my dilemma? I made two swords from raw steel purchased from a mill. I polished them up to mirror finish, however I find over time that rust begins to form again. I purchased a sword 10 years ago from Spain and that is always mirror shiny without any maintenance. How can I treat my two swords so they never rust?
Try applying lacquer. I did it on a brass piece (T handle for a transmission knob) and it's still mirror shiny. By the way, I watched a video on soaking rusty steel in apple cider vinegar and it works like magic! Resolved rust from the surface of an uncoated metal piece and showed the bare metal.
Here is an interesting thought for you. I didn't realize this till a work project brought it to light. Even with stainless steel there are various grades. Low grade stainless steel still rusts. It comes down to the grade of the stainless and how well it is polished. Once a year when we re-polished the stainless (In a pool environment) if we didn't polish to a high enough grit, it would rust quicker. Your steel might benefit from polishing to a higher grit. Now another way of handling this is simple car wax. A lot of wood workers use car wax on metal surfaces such as plane bodies, various blades, chisels, knives to stop them from rusting. The other alternative is just wiping a light coat of oil on the tool once in a while. You could do that with a sword too.
It can reach better finish by using 80#,120#,240#,400#,oil sisal polishing wheel ,cloth polishing wheel on steel product.Your final finish is still with lines cause the sisal polishing wheel ,and to trim the sisal wheels before polish will be better.
What do you think will happen to your hands when they're still inside said ruined pair of gloves, stuck on a mop spinning at 3000 rpm? I doubt you'll have much need for gloves anymore after that.
I want to get close to this with my steel wheels but once I do get there, how can I keep it from rusting away? Will it be enoough if I clear coat them? Btw, that axe looks amazing!Good job!
That's crazy, it looks almost like chrome. I got a buffer mounted on a cabinet at an estate sale. In the cabinet was all different color polishing compounds. I've never figured out how to use it right. It always leaves behind black stuff that I need to rub off with a rag. Your using at least 3 times as much polish as I have tried, could that be what I'm doing wrong, not using enough polish? Thanks for any help or advice you can give me.
I feel like I'm watching a horror movie in which the axe murderer never speaks, and it's part where he's preparing his weapon prior to going on a killing spree.
Hi, I was hoping to polish up 25mmx25mm mild steal box (to resemble stainless steel). I was wondering which of your products you could recommend. Thank You!
TillyWolves - Correct. There is always room for improvement and it is our intention to produce better videos as and when we are able. This applies to our other video's.
Hi there, you can have a look at the drill mounted kits on our US site at polish-updotcom. We don't currently have a clear coat but do offer a metal polish that holds the finish for a while. Regards Polish Up
Hi guys a lot of comment son how to keep the blades(metal) mirror like properties, very simple rub some Camelia Oil all over the surface this will keep it looking like new for years. Alternatively apply some Renaissance wax, again rub it all over with a rag wait for 20 minutes for it to dry and then buff off it will repel any moisture (water) and form a barrier so oxygen and again water form causing rust.
Not really. Tripoli is a buffing compound too. He should have next used green compound and changed direction for a real mirror finish on steel. It's all about grades of abrasion. Cutting compounds remove metal; buffing compounds move metal around to fill in the highs and lows made by the cutting compound, creating a super smooth surface with zero marks. Both these stages if overdone can reshape the metal. Not good if it's a fine or valuable piece. Polishing compounds brightens up that super smooth surface and is a quick once over. You should also clean the surface being treated between each compound.
sanding an axe with a drill would mess up the temper do not use power tools for sanding a blade of any sort it will make the tempered edge in to soft metal meaning it would not hold an edge for more than a few cuts
Nice job... BUUUUTTT there is ripples that's distorting the finish.. using a narrow flap sander will cause this.try using a wider sander.. great work though
one time in school i was polishing a half dome shaped copper bucket to scoop up water from a normal bucket that you use in a sauna and then i didnt know you could flip the direction of the polisher like at 3:49 and then i held the copper bucket on the under side of the polisher and it was rotating clockwise and i was trying to polish the inside of the bucket and then the edge gripped the polisher and it came flying twards me and hit me in the forhead and had to go to the doctar at school. and thats why im scared of polishers :D ...
you're not doing it right. you're supposed to spit on it and rub it on your pant leg really fast. all that stuff you're doing is just over the top and stuff.
the only sound i hear is the tools so this guy could say something instead of using 'flash cards' to explain the process. down vote here just for the vid alone. and i agree it's not close to mirror finish.
Thanks for the tips! Amazing how quick you can stop feeling like a complete idiot, waste less material and get better results with just a little education.
